Lapierre electric bike

neptronix said:
A capacitor will provide maybe a second of discharge buffering at most, it's not the spike of amps that will kill the ping, it's the prolonged >2C draw that will produce lots of heat & sag, wasting watt hours and damaging the prismatic cells.
A fan will not do diddly squat to cool the cells outside of the cells of the edges. Think about it - the cells in the middle of the pack have about 1/10th of the cooling surface that the ones on the edges have.

Do not think that it will protect you at all.

Hummm, yes :(
I have to care battery heat...perhaps next build (with Lipo I guess) !
I planned to have something like in full electric car, you know, battery charging capacitor. Capacitor for high amp demand (power) and battery for continous amp delivering (energy). But I do not have enough capacitor (Ultracaps needed...)

neptronix said:
The ping batter problem i mentioned, and the fact that You're running a 12FET controller, which realistically is good for 'bout 50 amps continuous in most situations. It can handle power spikes, but if you're going to run much over that continuous ( for example, when hill climbing ), something is going to blow, especially on that amp-hungry high speed wind.

Do yourself a favor and take the bike up some gnarly hills, then measure the temp of the battery and controller afterwards.

Finding from my last built without any mod (same battery, same controller, dork cables, no capacitor, no shottky, no fan):
Hill climbing: 55Amps continous, controller very hot, battery cold

But I agree with you, this is not a high-end setup :oops:
 
very neat, great job!
 
Salut jpgey,

Guys, let me use my french for this time :p

Très beau projet

Perconellement, j'ai installé et testés environ 7 battery ping de 15Ah et sur le cycle analyst calibré, je leur permet d'avoir un max de 65A burst, soit environ 4.5C mais en continu, le max c'est plus 2000W, soit 2-3C.

Aussi, prevoit un moyen facile de deconnecter les fils d'équilibrage et monitoring facilement, car si tu entrepose pour une periode prolongée, ces BMS on la facheuse reputation de drainer un faible courant sur les cell 1 a 4 pour avoir le 12V requis pour le circuit.. masi de facon continu... :?

Donc moi je débranche tout le temps, de cette facon elle toutes demeurent balancées!

Très beau velo en passant!

Doc
 
Doctorbass said:
Salut jpgey,

Guys, let me use my french for this time :p

Très beau projet

Perconellement, j'ai installé et testés environ 7 battery ping de 15Ah et sur le cycle analyst calibré, je leur permet d'avoir un max de 65A burst, soit environ 4.5C mais en continu, le max c'est plus 2000W, soit 2-3C.

Aussi, prevoit un moyen facile de deconnecter les fils d'équilibrage et monitoring facilement, car si tu entrepose pour une periode prolongée, ces BMS on la facheuse reputation de drainer un faible courant sur les cell 1 a 4 pour avoir le 12V requis pour le circuit.. masi de facon continu... :?

Donc moi je débranche tout le temps, de cette facon elle toutes demeurent balancées!

Très beau velo en passant!

Doc

Excellent français Doctorbass !
Vous avez un très bon niveau, je suis vraiment impressionné !

Merci de ces informations, elles me seront très utiles.
 
Nothing special today, the leds are now inside the front faring.
Small test, about 450mA for front light, 30mA for rear and 100mA for brake light.
I will glue two small solar panel inside the inlay, for BMS fan.

IMG_0438.JPG
 
Nice, It really looks like you know what your doing. Thanks for all the pictures
 
Many thank's Racer_X ! I'm not really certain what I'm doing but I do it !!! :lol:

Some rear light pictures, made from epoxy bloc and two smal led lens. Six leds inside the bloc for light and four leds inside the lens for brake light

IMG_0402.JPG


IMG_0401.JPG
 
Dashboard. Will include a temp meter (analog because it's more cool !) and two switchs.
One switch to bypass the twilight sensor (light forced-on or automatic) and one switch to power-off the fans inside the controller. In fact the fans inside the controller are self-sustained speed controled... theoreticaly because I do not test them in real condition :roll:

IMG_0448.JPG
 
jpgey said:
Dashboard. Will include a temp meter (analog because it's more cool !) and two switchs.
One switch to bypass the twilight sensor (light forced-on or automatic) and one switch to power-off the fans inside the controller. In fact the fans inside the controller are self-sustained speed controled... theoreticaly because I do not test them in real condition :roll:

IMG_0448.JPG

Temp sensor looks great. How is that wired up - is there a 'brain' unit somewhere, or is it all built into the gauge?

I'm after something very much like this - would appreciate any tips:)#

subscribed
 
lostrack said:
jpgey said:
Dashboard. Will include a temp meter (analog because it's more cool !) and two switchs.
One switch to bypass the twilight sensor (light forced-on or automatic) and one switch to power-off the fans inside the controller. In fact the fans inside the controller are self-sustained speed controled... theoreticaly because I do not test them in real condition :roll:

Temp sensor looks great. How is that wired up - is there a 'brain' unit somewhere, or is it all built into the gauge?

I'm after something very much like this - would appreciate any tips:)#

This gauge is a cannibalized part !
There is no master module, my next build will include a microcontroller, perhaps Arduino. This one is pure analog, and very basic. Some good schematics here (in french) http://www.sonelec-musique.com/electronique_realisations_thermometre_002.html

But you can find some very nice gauge like this one (try a google search LCD Digital Thermometer Temperature Meter Gauge)
Digital-Thermometer-Temperature-Meter-Gauge-PC-MOD.jpg
 
Small update. I use a DB25 connector to connect all the wires from controller and lights (ebrake, temp sensor, controller fans, rear light, brake light, low level power, BMS fan)
Otherwise the front faring could not be removed handily !

IMG_0450.JPG
 
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