LightningRods mid drive kit
- Thread starter spinningmagnets
- Start date
sparkz
10 W
I am currently riding a 2000W hub motor bike I built last year. It is a poor choice for mountain biking, as it groans like a professional wrestler at low RPM on the trail. Probably makes more noise than the mid-drive will. The only ebike noise that bothers me is the one I make just before crashing, or when the gears on my hub motor start stripping. On the road, I am not near other cyclists/pedestrians long enough for them to get annoyed (I top out around 45kph). On the trail, I get annoyed (not really) when everyone I meet wants to stop me and talk about my bike. My next build will be a low-speed trail monster, and I will be out in the back country most of the time with it. Hopefully, the wildlife won't get too annoyed with me.
LightningRods
1 MW
It's been a surprise to me that kit customers were having trouble with the lower adjuster moving under use. I've been selling the lower brackets for over a year and haven't been getting that feedback. I've changed the way that I bolt the adjuster together so that the sides clamp more securely. I'll keep making the hardware and brackets more secure until there is no issue. The 100mm BB brackets will have at least two adjuster bolts.
We're working getting the new motor shafts pressed into motor for new orders. I did not like annealing the first motor shafts in order to be able to cut the output section. The new shafts are cut on a 5,000 lb industrial lathe the size of a Buick. The machinist is able to burrow through the hardened shell on the factory shaft and leave the section inside of the motor factory stock and hardened.
I would like a better finish on my large pulley. I don't think that it adds to the running noise. It may add to belt wear and I don't like how it looks. I paid $600 for the 3D print on a Objet printer. I then paid $800 for a print on a high end Envisiontek printer that has a perfect finish but is slightly out of round. My next stop is to pay $1,000 for a custom CNCed pulley that I can pull a mold from. The casting is only going to be as good as the pattern object.
Like I've said from the beginning, none of my parts are perfect, they're just the best that I can make them. I keep improving parts constantly and fixing issues as they come up. Selling upgrade parts was easy because GNG set the bar pretty low for me. People were thrilled to have something better. I can see that selling complete kits is going to be a lot more challenging.
I occasionally run into motors of this design that won't start running until you physically turn the motor. Then it takes off and runs fine. This seems like a hall sensor issue to me. Does anyone have an answer on this?
We're working getting the new motor shafts pressed into motor for new orders. I did not like annealing the first motor shafts in order to be able to cut the output section. The new shafts are cut on a 5,000 lb industrial lathe the size of a Buick. The machinist is able to burrow through the hardened shell on the factory shaft and leave the section inside of the motor factory stock and hardened.
I would like a better finish on my large pulley. I don't think that it adds to the running noise. It may add to belt wear and I don't like how it looks. I paid $600 for the 3D print on a Objet printer. I then paid $800 for a print on a high end Envisiontek printer that has a perfect finish but is slightly out of round. My next stop is to pay $1,000 for a custom CNCed pulley that I can pull a mold from. The casting is only going to be as good as the pattern object.
Like I've said from the beginning, none of my parts are perfect, they're just the best that I can make them. I keep improving parts constantly and fixing issues as they come up. Selling upgrade parts was easy because GNG set the bar pretty low for me. People were thrilled to have something better. I can see that selling complete kits is going to be a lot more challenging.
I occasionally run into motors of this design that won't start running until you physically turn the motor. Then it takes off and runs fine. This seems like a hall sensor issue to me. Does anyone have an answer on this?
scorpionice
10 W
Any wiring photos to connect the kit to CA, Batteries and controller?
jdevo2004 said:
ok so far i'm re-iterating a quick list of the bugs
1. chain guard could be assembled due to certain holes were un-threaded
2. kit doesn't have a tight hold on downtube due to the following
a. lack of shims under the downtube
b. too long bottom bracket adjustment bolts
3. chain is too loose under load.
shouldn't something like this stop it from happening it? http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/il/en/e-thirteen-xcx-st-chain-guide/rp-prod61087
most chain guides i saw fit on the bb, and i'm assuming there's no room for such thing.
i thought about getting something like this, but since i'm using an alfine, and sliding dropouts. and adjust my chain to always be same and tension and line.
most chain guides i saw fit on the bb, and i'm assuming there's no room for such thing.
i thought about getting something like this, but since i'm using an alfine, and sliding dropouts. and adjust my chain to always be same and tension and line.
--freeride--
100 W
- Joined
- Jul 5, 2011
- Messages
- 237
If you don't want your chain to fall of the front sprocket there is a good solution.
Get a damped derailleur Shimano shadow PLUS
or Sram Typ 2
They both have a damper and keep the chain in place.
Problem is, they are only available for 10 speed. But there is a solution too. With an old 8 or 9 speed Sram shifter, you can use 10 speed Shimano derailleurs.
The Shifter defines what your derailleur runs at. So you get a 8 or 9 speed like the shifter is.
That is the only combination that runs. The rest is not compatible!
Get a damped derailleur Shimano shadow PLUS
or Sram Typ 2
They both have a damper and keep the chain in place.
Problem is, they are only available for 10 speed. But there is a solution too. With an old 8 or 9 speed Sram shifter, you can use 10 speed Shimano derailleurs.
The Shifter defines what your derailleur runs at. So you get a 8 or 9 speed like the shifter is.
That is the only combination that runs. The rest is not compatible!
do you think it would ok to try and use a BMC controller for the motor? the reason i'm asking, is that the controller (i got from ilia) is the only one that managed to survive this long with my bmc motor, only now it's undergoing repairs for being shorted out for some mystery reason, and the tech guy says it's built to withstand enormous loads, it's cools off so fast, he can barely soldier transistors. my previous infineon controllers i got from em3ev, didn't seem to last long, even the current one, i suspect may have hall sensing issue (sudden small stops)
Hello guys,
Can you please advise what bolts are you using between the #219 racing sprocket wheel to the original bicycle sprocket wheel?
I used long bolts with washers and they snap under the load.
http://www.moovebikeco.com/long-15mm-outer-ring-chainring-bolts-7075
Now I’m waiting to steel bolts:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/il/en/race-face-poly-bashguard-fastener-bolt-kit/rp-prod46947
Thank you
Rotem
Can you please advise what bolts are you using between the #219 racing sprocket wheel to the original bicycle sprocket wheel?
I used long bolts with washers and they snap under the load.
http://www.moovebikeco.com/long-15mm-outer-ring-chainring-bolts-7075
Now I’m waiting to steel bolts:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/il/en/race-face-poly-bashguard-fastener-bolt-kit/rp-prod46947
Thank you
Rotem
--freeride-- said:
You can also use the Shimano 10 speed derailleur and shifter with a 9 speed cassette by attaching the cable differently.
Haven't tried it with an 8 speed cassette, if has the same spacing as the 9 speed it will also work.
Another way to reduce the chances of the chain falling off is to use a "narrow-wide" chainring.
skyungjae
10 kW
ebike11 said:
The upper sheets tightens the primary side, the secondary tightens the secondary side.
Edit:
Hey Mike, how's that screw on pulley for GNG chain drive users coming along?
emaayan said:
I kept my front derailleur, and 2 out of the original 3 chain rings (42/34). My problem is that my front shifter has 3 shifting positions, so if I overshift, then my chain falls off on the inside. I adjusted my "L" screw on the derailleur to minimize this, but it's not foolproof.
I noticed that the bottom bracket in the video is very different from mine. It's much longer so that the adjusting screws are really far away from the chainring. Mine are actually right inside, meaning that the adjusting bolts catch on the chain when it falls off on the inside. Ouch!
sparkz
10 W
I asked the same question of Ed Lyen, the controller wizard, and here is his response: "From what I have learned, the BMC controller is designed to work with motors that is equipped with 60 degree hall sensor spacing angle, including the BMC V1, V2-S, V2-T, V3, V4-T, and V4-S. Whereas the Lightning Rod mid-drive motor utilize the 120 degree hall sensor spacing angle. The BMC controller's spacing angle is fixed. Therefore, it is considered incompatible." Sorry, I was hoping to use my BMC controller on the mid-drive kit, also.
sparkz
10 W
I'll let you be the one to suggest it to LightningRods...
