AussieJester
1 TW
Yup would do, at a cost to the buyer obviously...
Kim
Kim
LightningRods mid drive kit
- Thread starter spinningmagnets
- Start date
PRW
100 kW
AussieJester said:
I wasn't expecting it for free - excellent! I have a 2012 Giant Anthem X3 29er that should really have a mid-drive, not a hub, I think...
BRK
10 mW
nukezero said:Look what came in the mail for me today! Lyen's 12 FET LightningRod Edition Mark II controller. I already figured out a mounting location on it. But I don't know how to mount it though. Does anyone know how to mount it as close to the tube as possible? Don't say it, zip ties?!?!?
I like how the controller has all the corresponding connectors and he included the connector pins. Oh, and I will be using the crappy hidden brake wire sensor (HWBS) that I got off aliexpress.
Next week, I'm planning to pick up the HPC Elite 52v 13Ah Li-NMC pouch cells (capable of 65A) (7.8 lbs) . Of course that number is probably grossly exagerated. They're giving me a decent discount by avoiding tax, paying cash, and local pick-up.
I chose this battery after weeks of searching and came to the conclusion that, em3ev is my first choice but it would be impossible to ship the battery back if there were issues. Plus most of his batteries are only good for 2-3C. I feel like 1/3 of the money is just paying his 3% paypal and outrageous shipping fees. Everybody else's battery stateside is expensive and not adequate with the C rating.(allcelltech). I love those new triangle mounted packs like lectric-cycles, but his panasonic 18650pf cells I'm afraid are not going to be up to the task of 30A continuous; his battery is also $800+ now.
Also, I live in a condominium, so I can't use hobbyking lipo's in the garage. If a fire goes, I'd be taking 3 neighbors down with me. And that would not be a pretty sight.
Now all that I need now is Mr. LightningRod to send me the motor!! :lol: :lol: :lol:
nukezero,
I love the Townie and the whole crank forward idea and I will own one someday. For my LR build though, I am building up a truck themed Surly ECR. Since this is my 4th e-bike build over the last 5 years, I am embarrassed to ask you --- What is that device is in your photo "b.jpg"?
Attachments
LightningRods
1 MW
Danschutz said:
The wait time for orders placed right now is 3-4 weeks. I should begin shipping kits next week. I've ordered enough parts for about 30 kits right now. I'll try to reorder everything so that there's no down time as I run through those parts. Please bear with me folks. Managing production and maintaining an inventory of so many parts is new to me. I'm still getting organized and figuring this out. I will continue to ramp up my numbers as demand dictates.
emaayan said:
The main purpose of the long spindle is to make room for all of the mid drive stuff in between the crank arms. If you are able to fit a freewheel and three sprockets now, you will still be able to fit them with my kit. What we need to coordinate is the offset of your driven secondary sprocket from the centerline of the bike relative to the offset of my driver sprocket on the jackshaft. We can take measurements and try to make sure everything lines up. Your using the THUN BB complicates things a bit but I'm willing to work with you. I'll make you a custom length jackshaft spindle if necessary. Everything is hand made anyway so it's no big deal.
turbo1889 said:
Yes you can flip the motor over to run it on the right side and there is also a wiring sequence of the phase and hall wires that will cause my motors to run in reverse direction (clockwise). There are two problems with your plan; (1) You're using a fairly large and heavy motor to generate a tiny fraction of the power it's capable of. At 250-300 watts weight matters. It's a waste of this motor's potential and a few pounds of dead weight. (2) Running at low voltage, low rpm with no reduction you're further reducing power by eliminating the torque multiplication of the primary reduction drive. And even at 24v the motor would be turning 1,600 rpm which a normal 12/48 or 1:4 reduction would make 400 rpm at the BB. You would virtually not be able to pedal along at all. A disaster at 250 watts. Remember that most of the teensy 'Euro' motors you see have an internal gear reduction of some sort before the output shaft. Low powered motors are absolutely dependent on reduction for their power.
AussieJester said:
I'm very interested in working people on sales and distribution, particularly in places like Oz and New Zealand. I'm not sure how we'd make it work for everyone involved but I'm ready to talk. Thanks for your interest, KiM! Anyone with business propositions or suggestions on how to manage my web site, etc please PM me. I welcome your input but as Len says it makes it hard to find info about the kit.
BRK said:
That's going to be a great build! Can't wait to see it.
nukezero
10 kW
BRK said:nukezero said:Look what came in the mail for me today! Lyen's 12 FET LightningRod Edition Mark II controller. I already figured out a mounting location on it. But I don't know how to mount it though. Does anyone know how to mount it as close to the tube as possible? Don't say it, zip ties?!?!?
I like how the controller has all the corresponding connectors and he included the connector pins. Oh, and I will be using the crappy hidden brake wire sensor (HWBS) that I got off aliexpress.
Next week, I'm planning to pick up the HPC Elite 52v 13Ah Li-NMC pouch cells (capable of 65A) (7.8 lbs) . Of course that number is probably grossly exagerated. They're giving me a decent discount by avoiding tax, paying cash, and local pick-up.
I chose this battery after weeks of searching and came to the conclusion that, em3ev is my first choice but it would be impossible to ship the battery back if there were issues. Plus most of his batteries are only good for 2-3C. I feel like 1/3 of the money is just paying his 3% paypal and outrageous shipping fees. Everybody else's battery stateside is expensive and not adequate with the C rating.(allcelltech). I love those new triangle mounted packs like lectric-cycles, but his panasonic 18650pf cells I'm afraid are not going to be up to the task of 30A continuous; his battery is also $800+ now.
Also, I live in a condominium, so I can't use hobbyking lipo's in the garage. If a fire goes, I'd be taking 3 neighbors down with me. And that would not be a pretty sight.
Now all that I need now is Mr. LightningRod to send me the motor!! :lol: :lol: :lol:
nukezero,
I love the Townie and the whole crank forward idea and I will own one someday. For my LR build though, I am building up a truck themed Surly ECR. Since this is my 4th e-bike build over the last 5 years, I am embarrassed to ask you --- What is that device is in your photo "b.jpg"?
Hidden brake wire sensor
Allows me to use existing brake line and levers while having e brake functionality
regarding inventory do you have any software you're using?
http://download.cnet.com/inFlow-Inventory-Free-Edition/3000-2067_4-10772674.html#editorsreview
only 3-4 weeks ,you're in good shape .. ecospeed's lead is 2 months, and they already have 5 folks and are up and running for a long time..
actually i don't know about anyone else, but for me, the lead time is good for research, it allowed to read through this whole thread, thus finding out the mudguards , and temperature sensor, asking for them, as well allowed me to investigate the current question about BB... lead time is good ,folks, USE IT! you don't to snap your fingers and go "i should have ordered that another part"
the thun BB is only way i know how to use a torque sensor to coordinate with CA, and it is the longest they have anyway.
my current setup only includes one driven sprocket, but ecospeed does supply the option for 3 sprockets, and i don't recall them saying anything about a larger BB (i didn't ask though). however crank arm you see are custom made from ecospeed, the ta arms i think would have less clearance. i can tell you that distance between ecospeed crank arms and the down tube is 6.5-7 cm.
i don't know how to measure anything else..
http://download.cnet.com/inFlow-Inventory-Free-Edition/3000-2067_4-10772674.html#editorsreview
only 3-4 weeks ,you're in good shape ..
ecospeed's lead is 2 months, and they already have 5 folks and are up and running for a long time..actually i don't know about anyone else, but for me, the lead time is good for research, it allowed to read through this whole thread, thus finding out the mudguards , and temperature sensor, asking for them, as well allowed me to investigate the current question about BB... lead time is good ,folks, USE IT! you don't to snap your fingers and go "i should have ordered that another part
" the thun BB is only way i know how to use a torque sensor to coordinate with CA, and it is the longest they have anyway.
my current setup only includes one driven sprocket, but ecospeed does supply the option for 3 sprockets, and i don't recall them saying anything about a larger BB (i didn't ask though). however crank arm you see are custom made from ecospeed, the ta arms i think would have less clearance. i can tell you that distance between ecospeed crank arms and the down tube is 6.5-7 cm.
i don't know how to measure anything else..
LightningRods
1 MW
emaayan said:
Private messaging offers you the freedom to discuss whatever you like for as long as you like.
I believe that all of the e-brake sensors are a contact switch actuated by the lever being pulled. Whether that lever pulls a cable or pushes hydraulic fluid shouldn't matter to a switch.
The THUN is of interest to a lot of people and it certainly relates directly to my kit and mid drives in general. The key piece to this puzzle are those TA Specialties crank arms. Do you know for certain that they have a 1.375" -24 tpi thread on the right crank arm? I read what information I could find online about them and only gleaned that they have an "interchangeable center spider" for different BCD chainwheels. I couldn't find if that connection is made by the thread size and pitch we need to thread into a White Ind or ACS freewheel. If the TA arms fit both the THUN and the good freewheels we're in business.
The ability to have more than one driver chainwheel is determined by the width of the BB axle as well as obstacles between chainwheels and rear wheel sprockets like suspension arms and pivots on FS bikes. It's really on a case by case, bike by bike basis as to what parts will fit.
LightningRods
1 MW
emaayan said:
The critical dimension is from the center of the frame tube (not the edge because diameters vary) to the center of the driven chainwheel. That distance is set by the length of the BB axle, where the square taper axle end beds into the crank arm, and the freewheel threading onto that arm. Very straight crank arms that don't have much offset from axle end to pedal end may cause other clearance problems but they don't affect the secondary driveline alignment.
i have no idea if the what arms threarding is, my mind was about to explode as it is, from reading all the difference betwen the standards of diamond vs sqaure vs vs iso, JIS or whatever standard the were using, i was just happy to find a square taper arm, sheesh and i thought crank arms would be easy.
i guess the only way to be sure, is once i get them i'll send you a picture of the threading. i figure any crank arm i could find would fit, didn't occur i would need a special one for freewheel.
so i would need to have tape measure from the center of the BB to the freewheel?
it might be a good idea,if you send ahead just the freehwheel, 80T 219 driven sprocket, and freewheel adapter to 219 sprocket, so i could assemble the crankset and see if it gives me any problems, unless it causes you problems with product line managment. i could take a picture of how they are assembled onto the frame.
i guess the only way to be sure, is once i get them i'll send you a picture of the threading. i figure any crank arm i could find would fit, didn't occur i would need a special one for freewheel.
so i would need to have tape measure from the center of the BB to the freewheel?
it might be a good idea,if you send ahead just the freehwheel, 80T 219 driven sprocket, and freewheel adapter to 219 sprocket, so i could assemble the crankset and see if it gives me any problems, unless it causes you problems with product line managment. i could take a picture of how they are assembled onto the frame.
LightningRods
1 MW
emaayan said:
It is frustrating. I have an inquiry in to a TA Specialties dealer regarding the method for attaching crank arm to spider. Hopefully they will get back to me with the information that we need.
You have gotten into something complicated trying to keep that THUN BB. The EcoSpeed crank arms will work with both the THUN BB and the ACS or White Ind. freewheels. Why did you give up on those? I'm mostly chasing down the TA crank arms so that people don't have to depend solely on EcoSpeed.
LightningRods
1 MW
Here is the laser cut steel adapter plate that mates 5 bolt freewheels like the ACS and White Industries to the 5.25" BCD #219 kart sprockets.
Here's the front side assembled with 48T and 32T 104mm BCD chainwheels and an 80T #219 kart sprocket.
Here's the back side. Notice how the 80T #219 driven sprocket and 48T 1/2" driver chainwheel are almost exactly the same size. That fine tooth pitch is how #219 gives you 60% more reduction. It also runs quieter and has a tensile strength of over 2,000 lbs.
This image shows the spacing between the adapter plate/#219 sprocket and the two chainwheels. Note that these Cyclone BB chainwheels were delivered with thin stacked spacers between the two chainwheels. This is so that you can adjust the chainwheel spacing. If the chainwheel spacing is too wide the chain won't want to change gears (or worst case will get stuck between the chainwheels). If the chainwheel spacing is too close the chain could overshoot it's target and derail on the back side. Overall this stack of three sprockets is almost exactly 1" (25.4mm) wide.
Here's the front side assembled with 48T and 32T 104mm BCD chainwheels and an 80T #219 kart sprocket.
Here's the back side. Notice how the 80T #219 driven sprocket and 48T 1/2" driver chainwheel are almost exactly the same size. That fine tooth pitch is how #219 gives you 60% more reduction. It also runs quieter and has a tensile strength of over 2,000 lbs.
This image shows the spacing between the adapter plate/#219 sprocket and the two chainwheels. Note that these Cyclone BB chainwheels were delivered with thin stacked spacers between the two chainwheels. This is so that you can adjust the chainwheel spacing. If the chainwheel spacing is too wide the chain won't want to change gears (or worst case will get stuck between the chainwheels). If the chainwheel spacing is too close the chain could overshoot it's target and derail on the back side. Overall this stack of three sprockets is almost exactly 1" (25.4mm) wide.
LightningRods
1 MW
When the kits start shipping next week the chainwheels will have this guard over them so that they don't nibble on your clothes or fleshy bits.
nukezero
10 kW
Hi LightningRod
Is it possible to request a 38/48T chaining setup from you instead of what you have in the picture 32/48T?
Thanks
Is it possible to request a 38/48T chaining setup from you instead of what you have in the picture 32/48T?
Thanks
LightningRods
1 MW
Of course. A 38 tooth 104 BCD chainwheel is available anywhere. But I'm curious, why do you want your low range to be higher? I think a big ratio spread is the way to go. Are you worried that it will be hard to shift from a 32 up to a 48?
scorpionice
10 W
is that an upgrade with 2 chainring setup if you use that kart chairing?
LightningRods
1 MW
I can either set you up with a Cyclone ISIS crankset with the chainrings and then upgrade the 1/2" secondary drive to 219, or put together a 219 drive and let you provide your own 104 BCD sprockets. Many mountain bikes come with them so those people would not need an additional set.
nukezero
10 kW
LightningRod
I'm still slightly confused on the last parts of our conversation. Your kit will come with two chainwheels, a 32T and a 48T?
Or you just provide the adapter and we all buy our own chainwheel/chainring?
Or are you saying that we have two choices.
Option 1we use the isis crankset which come with two chain wheels, or
Option 2, no isis crankset, but you upgrade the stock gng system with the 219 adapter, and we buy our own chainrings?
Thanks
I'm still slightly confused on the last parts of our conversation. Your kit will come with two chainwheels, a 32T and a 48T?
Or you just provide the adapter and we all buy our own chainwheel/chainring?
Or are you saying that we have two choices.
Option 1we use the isis crankset which come with two chain wheels, or
Option 2, no isis crankset, but you upgrade the stock gng system with the 219 adapter, and we buy our own chainrings?
Thanks
actually i'm getting a 39T sprocket ,cause that's the recommendation from shimano about front/rear sprocket ration if you have a 20T rear sprocket. that's the only sprocket i'll be using.
i'm using new crank arms cause i don't wanna go through the mess removing the W-I freewheel and removing it from ecospeed, it's like you said , i can have 2 differeent crank set. i could also put the eco speed back on my spare trek 7700 and turn it into a backup.
and becuse like you said perhaps other folks might wanna go the thun bb way too so i figured why not go through the this first propertly..
i'm using new crank arms cause i don't wanna go through the mess removing the W-I freewheel and removing it from ecospeed, it's like you said , i can have 2 differeent crank set. i could also put the eco speed back on my spare trek 7700 and turn it into a backup.
and becuse like you said perhaps other folks might wanna go the thun bb way too so i figured why not go through the this first propertly..
nukezero
10 kW
Ok I'm lost. What's a THUN and ISIS? Are they the same thing?
LightningRods
1 MW
LightningRods
1 MW
emaayan said:
A 39/20? That's your only gear?
ISIS is not a brand name,(like I initially thought when I first saw it on LR site ) it's a standard for BB
think IS a brand name, but uses a square taper standard instead if ISIS
Yea that's my only gear, I have an alfine 11 with 20T sprocket, no front derauiler
think IS a brand name, but uses a square taper standard instead if ISIS
Yea that's my only gear, I have an alfine 11 with 20T sprocket, no front derauiler
scorpionice
10 W
LightningRods said:
are you going to provide the spacers and all that so we can just use our 104 BCD sprockets if we go to that direction?
nukezero
10 kW
Hi LightningRod
I guess I will go with the Cyclone system and the included 2 chainrings. I guess a 32T and 48T is fine with me... I actually like your black chainrings. Looks nice. So I think that is the best route for me with my Electra Townie right? I don't care to re-use the crank arms.
Oh, what is a 1/2" secondary drive upgrade you're referring to? Sorry, i'm so slow at this.
I guess I will go with the Cyclone system and the included 2 chainrings. I guess a 32T and 48T is fine with me... I actually like your black chainrings. Looks nice. So I think that is the best route for me with my Electra Townie right? I don't care to re-use the crank arms.
Oh, what is a 1/2" secondary drive upgrade you're referring to? Sorry, i'm so slow at this.
