Melting wires

Dang LPF now you are going to get everybody to rewire all their bikes! :lol:

However I am still going to solder because I have never had a crimp and soldered connector break off. However, I useally remove the cheap plastic insulator at the end of the connector, solder, then crimp and cover with a good piece of shrink tube to replace the cheap plastic one that I took off.

Despite all reports about doing it that way, mine still don't fray or break.

I can see the need for crimp in a very high amp situation, but not for an average e-bike assembly.

:D
 
I use crimp and solder on all signal wires as some are only 7 strand 24 gauge.My phase wires are 4mm bullets so need soldering and my battery wires are 5.5mm bullets that need soldering. Where does that leave me ???
 
For what it's worth, my oldest and most used power connectors are crimped with cheap crappy tools and then soldered. Zero problems with those. On the other hand, the pedicab fleet I work with has had recurrent connector overheating issues with 45A Powerpoles that were carefully crimped using Powerpole specific crimpers and then used at less than their current rating.

I don't think there's a down side to soldering an already crimped connector if the wire and the connector itself are more than adequate to carry the current. If nothing else, it keeps grime and corrosion out of the joint.

I don't think soldering alone is equal to crimping alone. For best results, you need good copper to copper contact without using solder as an intermediary.
 
999zip999 said:
I use crimp and solder on all signal wires as some are only 7 strand 24 gauge.My phase wires are 4mm bullets so need soldering and my battery wires are 5.5mm bullets that need soldering. Where does that leave me ???

I think the key with soldered connections is to make sure that they are stabilized so that the area where the wire becomes saturated with solder isn't being stressed or flexed very much.
 
Chalo said:
On the other hand, the pedicab fleet I work with has had recurrent connector overheating issues with 45A Powerpoles that were carefully crimped using Powerpole specific crimpers and then used at less than their current rating.

You've probably already checked for this, but I suspect contacts are not aligning correctly in the housings, so the mating surfaces are not held flat against each other by the springs.

Some of the non-Anderson-made PPs have weak springs that cause this if there's sufficient twisting forces on the incoming wires.

I don't know how to tell for sure whcih are which (as none of the PP45 or 75 size housings I've seen have anything molded into them) but I've seen some that have a more translucent look to the plastic that have more connection issues with thicker / stiffer wires in them than most of the ones that have a more opaque look.

Even with good springs in the housings, it's still possible for there to be enough twisting force on a wire / contact to cause misalignment and higher-than-normal resistance.


There are also two different versions of each PP contact, though AFAICR this is only intended to be retention force (shape of the tip, IIRC), it still might make some difference to contacts staying together like they should.
 
Or, Anderson's are just overrated, which is my opinion. Anybody who has worked with them knows that they are a pain in the ars to work with. And they are not any better then inexpensive bullet connectors soldered to the wire and then shrink tubed for insulation.

:D
 
I have had problems with Anderson's sometimes working good some ain't worth the hassle. Gold-plated bullets you see what you got you can feel it. Yes could be a little more of a pain to use and solder, but make ajig ( as I need to ( just got 10 pairs 4mm and 20 pairs 5.5mm ) . I guess I should take more time after my hard runs and feel my bullets for temperature
 
Anderson Powerpoles have extensively documented characteristics. Books full of charts and graphs, far better that what is available for bullet connectors. What people fail to understand is that they are not rated the way they think. PowerPole 45's are not rated for 45 amps continuous as people assume. 45 is a model number. According to the datasheet, a properly crimped PP45 single pole connector, with 10 gauge wire carrying continuous 45 amps will heat up 40 degrees C in open air. That's one, not a pair, and that is certainly not a connector that I would choose to carry 45 amperes continuously in an already warm environment, in more than a one pin connector, in an unpredictable airflow. That's too much temperature rise for my applications. The data is there, published, for anyone who cares to look. After looking at the data you can choose what current rating is appropriate for your application.

40C is a lot of temperature rise. If you don't want a hot connector you need to use less current per pin, or move to a larger connector. For example, in mulitpole use, with 12 gauge wire, if you wish to keep connector heating to only 20C then limit the current to 15 amps with the PP45 or PP30 pins.

Of course if the housing or pins are low quality clones, or if they are incorrectly installed - soldered, or bent and damaged during improper crimping, then they can fail that much more easily.

PowerPole 30 and 45's are great connectors at 15 amps continuous. They do fine at 30 to 45 amps pulsed. They were never claimed to be 45 amp continuous connectors. They are not over-rated. The characteristics are completely documented, and it is up to YOU to choose a rating for your application.

Some folks parallel them, and that helps a great deal. But if you use short lengths of wire between the pins, especially if you solder them, that puts a lot of side force on the pins, and they can fail to mate properly. We've seen this failure here on ES. The PowerPole relies on the wire flexing to allow the stainless steel spring to properly align and tension the pins together. Soldering causes a problem here because it makes things stiff and builds a long lever arm onto the pin so that small forces on the cable make large forces on the pin, and raise the resistance of the connection which increases the temperature rise and leads to failure.

Anderson DOES NOT RECOMMEND SOLDERING these connectors. I had a long talk with the West Coast Sales Manager about this. CRIMP ONLY. The pins must remain free to move. The data they present is based on properly crimped pins. Soldering affects the current capacity and connection reliability in a negative way.

The Anderson PowerPole connectors are excellent connectors, inexpensive, easy to install, reconfigurable into various plug configurations, capable of many mating cycles (10K cycles rated), low mating forces, and long reliable operation when installed and operated appropriately. I don't recall ever having one fail in my use of them, and I've been using them for a long time before I ever started doing ebikes.

If you have trouble with PowerPoles failing, it is not the manufacturer's fault. They have adequately documented the product and it's application.
 
Alan B said:
According to the datasheet, a properly crimped PP45 single pole connector, with 10 gauge wire carrying continuous 45 amps will heat up 40 degrees C in open air.

Yeah, too bad they don't crimp onto 10ga wire worth a damn. In my experience, they go reasonably well onto 12ga wire, and fatter than that the crimps get super goofy and they don't release from the crimper.
 
Alan B said:
Anderson Powerpoles have extensively documented characteristics. Books full of charts and graphs, far better that what is available for bullet connectors. What people fail to understand is that they are not rated the way they think. PowerPole 45's are not rated for 45 amps continuous as people assume. 45 is a model number.

Your explanation made me curious. So I looked up the Anderson publication on their connectors.

On the top of page 26 of this publication Anderson has a chart where they show the PP45 as having a 55 amp rating single pole wire to wire, 45 amps Ground wire to wire or PCB, 45 amps single pole PCB to wire, and 45 amps in a 2x3 block PCB to wire configuration. There are similar listings for Model PP25 having a 25 amp rating. They don't say whether this is continuous or not, but absent any disclaimer, that would be a reasonable assumption. If people are confused about the current capacity of these connectors, this Anderson publication and their model naming conventions have certainly helped that tremendously.

http://www.andersonpower.com/_global-assets/downloads/pdf/cat-ppmp.pdf
Alan B said:
According to the datasheet, a properly crimped PP45 single pole connector, with 10 gauge wire carrying continuous 45 amps will heat up 40 degrees C in open air. That's one, not a pair, and that is certainly not a connector that I would choose to carry 45 amperes continuously in an already warm environment, in more than a one pin connector, in an unpredictable airflow. That's too much temperature rise for my applications. The data is there, published, for anyone who cares to look. After looking at the data you can choose what current rating is appropriate for your application.
Yep. That information is on the page following the one where they tell you that these connectors are rated for 45 amps and above. It seems fairly typical that they place the rating for their connectors at somewhere around a 40-50c rise in temperature above 25c.

Here's what Anderson has to say about their UL amperage ratings. Of course, this is found in a separate publication.
https://www.andersonpower.com/_global-assets/downloads/pdf/ppmptecref.pdf

"Underwriter Laboratories Inc. amperage ratings are based on not exceeding the maximum operating temperature of the connector housing. This means connectors can be extremely hot when used at the UL amperage ratings. For this reason UL amperage ratings should only be applied to connectors when they are used inside an enclosure not accessible to untrained persons. Canadian Standards Association ratings are based on not exceeding a 30°C temperature rise above ambient temperatures. For this reason CSA amp ratings are a good point of reference for connectors that are user operated. APP does not recommend exceeding a 30°C temperature rise above ambient temperatures for connections accessible during operation to untrained persons."

What this means in practice is that e-bikers would be better served by using the CSA/TUV ratings that they publish, not the UL ratings that tend to generally correlate with the numbers in the model names. For the PP45 connector, that puts use in the 25-40 amp range with 10 AWG wire.

Alan B said:
PowerPole 30 and 45's are great connectors at 15 amps continuous. They do fine at 30 to 45 amps pulsed. They were never claimed to be 45 amp continuous connectors. They are not over-rated. The characteristics are completely documented, and it is up to YOU to choose a rating for your application.

Seems to me that the issue is that these are not named and spec'd in a way that is appropriate for the average hobbyist but are perhaps named OK for an electrical engineer or someone with a similar background and/or the inclination to read a 116 page publication. There is a strong correlation throughout that publication between the numbers in the connector model and the connector's amperage rating.


Alan B said:
Anderson DOES NOT RECOMMEND SOLDERING these connectors. I had a long talk with the West Coast Sales Manager about this. CRIMP ONLY. The pins must remain free to move. The data they present is based on properly crimped pins. Soldering affects the current capacity and connection reliability in a negative way.

Actually they do say that the closed barrel connectors are suitable for soldering. They mention solder 53 times in the document (for both wire connections and mounting connectors to PCB boards) and make the point that the tin plated connectors enhances solderability. They even have instructions on soldering on page 106. They also mention on that page that there are only a few crimping procedures that will provide the performance specified in their data sheets.

"As part of the connector design and testing process, we recommend a limited number of crimp solutions that have proven to deliver the intended connector performance in a process that is repeatable. Only these solutions tested by us are listed in the conditions of acceptability from safety agencies such as UL, CSA, and TUV. Use of tooling solutions not tested by us can affect not only performance but also safety agency approvals. Problems attributable to use of tools not recommended include:"

Tools specifically recommended are their 1309G2,1309G3,1309G6 and 1309G8. You can buy them at Mouser Electronics for between $265 and $500 dollars. That alone makes these connectors inappropriate for many home builders ... assuming that they want their Anderson connectors to perform per spec.


Alan B said:
If you have trouble with PowerPoles failing, it is not the manufacturer's fault. They have adequately documented the product and it's application.

Probably true. But it also means that people considering using these connectors should not approach their use casually and that they need to educate themselves about use and application more than with other connectors as well as purchase the appropriate special crimping tool. Anything else and the connector may under-perform. Anderson has warned you.
 
Assumptions will get you into trouble when reading datasheets. Proper interpretation is essential to use components in a safe operating manner.

Luckily there are some good lower-cost crimpers available that are made by third parties for Anderson connectors. In the early days we had to solder the PowerPoles because crimping was not an option at the prices of Anderson crimpers. We did experience more failures then because there's not much room inside the housing for any solder that is allowed to get on the outside of the pin's tube. The Anderson personnel I spoke to did not recommend soldering at all. I don't expect any of the data they publish is based on soldered connector measurements. So when you solder them you are working outside the datasheet measurements. Suitable for soldering does not make it the recommended procedure. In particular the pins for 10 gauge wire are not solderable at all, they require a special folding style crimper, and the 12 gauge pin tubes do not have sufficient space for 10 gauge wire to fit within. So soldering limits the use to the PP15 and PP30 pins. Any small amount of solder that gets outside the PP30 pin tube can prevent the pin from attaining proper alignment. The PP15 pins are more suitable for soldering due to their having plenty of clearance on the smaller tube, however the thinner wire is at greater risk of stress riser fracture failures at the end of the solder wicked into the strands. I have helped people repair their ebikes that failed when the small gauge wire snapped at the end of the stiff soldered section. Soldering here reduced the reliability of the connections and led to yet another ebike failure due to soldering.

All Datasheets contain information that cannot be taken without proper interpretation. Casual reading and Assumptions lead to incorrect understandings of FET ratings, for example. Datasheet values reflect impossibly optimistic cooling of the die, or currents that exceed the capability of the device leads, and elsewhere the lead current limits are also specified. So proper interpretation is essential. Misreading the datasheet is a common cause for incorrect component use and early failure. This is not news.

Not all crimpers do a good job, clearly one needs to buy their crimper from a reputable manufacturer and/or test them, as well as learn to use them correctly. There are good and bad tools everywhere and the procedure is at least as important as the tool. Lucky for us Anderson isn't the only company that makes an adequate crimper, so we don't have to pay for industrial tools. Again, hardly newsworthy.

We use enough current to heat up the PowerPole 15/30/45 connectors on some of our ebikes. So occasionally we do see failures. I haven't seen issues with the next size up SB50 / PP75 connectors, even at 5kW+. You get to choose the connector you use, and the data is there to guide the choice. The smaller PowerPoles are not suitable for ebikes pushing the envelope, but they work fine for most standard setups. The use of large wire and presence of cooling airflow will lower the temperature rise of any connector and increase the safe operating current. Using thinner wire, stuffing the connector inside with no airflow and soldering the wires will all reduce the connector's ability to perform reliably on your ebike. Your choice.
 
Alan B said:
Assumptions will get you into trouble when reading datasheets. Proper interpretation is essential to use components in a safe operating manner.

Then ...

Alan B said:
All Datasheets contain information that cannot be taken without proper interpretation. Casual reading and Assumptions lead to incorrect understandings of FET ratings, for example. Datasheet values reflect impossibly optimistic cooling of the die, or currents that exceed the capability of the device leads, and elsewhere the lead current limits are also specified. So proper interpretation is essential. Misreading the datasheet is a common cause for incorrect component use and early failure. This is not news.

So basically you can't take the optimistic documentation at face value and you don't need to follow the rules Anderson sets forth (for instance, using the crimpers Anderson specifies)?

The way I see it, you can't take those positions and then say that the fault of interpreting a PP45 Anderson connector as being appropriate to carry 45 amps on an e-bike is all the users fault. Anderson and the people who sell their products are part of the problem.

Anyway, that's what makes these forums valuable - the access to real world experiences of others that goes beyond datasheets and marketing.
 
One must realize that datasheets are a combination of marketing information and engineering data regarding the components. If you interpret it incorrectly, you will have problems. They will always try to make the component look good.

Obviously the manufacturer won't warranty the specs if you use someone else's tools. They want to sell their tools. They have no control over other's tools. Not all tools do the job correctly or even adequately. That doesn't mean other tools won't work fine. If they don't, it is your responsibility as you chose to use the tool. If you choose to use a junk crimper, that's on you. The procedure you use is also your responsibility. The bottom line is, if you are going to make wiring, it is your responsibility. The data sheets show what the components can do, if the parts are properly employed. They supply information that can be used to guide the application choices. You choose how conservatively to apply current to the device.

Many of the common connectors used for ebike use have no real specs at all. No datasheets beyond physical measurements. They depend on heatshrink tubing for insulation safety. They melt at the first sign of trouble. The capacitor charging arcs tear huge chunks out of the thin material and destroy the ultra-thin gold plating. The springs are not made of actual spring materials, so they cannot survive thousands of insertion cycles. They cannot be crimped. They use the absolute minimum of material to maximize profit and minimize weight for their target market. They are actually designed for RC applications (not ebikes) where active system lifetime is often measured in minutes, and cooling airflow is often into three digits of velocity.
 
5.5mm always disconnected for charging battery 1110 Cycles and same H.K. bullets. Still in test mode. Oh just the pos end alway leave neg end connected.
 
For what it's worth, crimp connectors including Anderson's have always been more reliable for me than soldered connectors. Most OEM crimping and pin tooling prices are outrageous. Plenty of affordable high-quality alternatives are available for common connectors.

If a 150amp crimp connector with form-factor similar to XT150 was available it would become the go-to option. Ultimately, hard wiring would be better but many of us need to disconnect to change a tyre, add new sensors or tinker.

Speaking of spec sheets, several higher power controllers use ring terminals, anybody come across ampacity data for ring terminals? I've had look but the info is patchy and most infer ratings are equal to wire ampacity.
 
Alan B said:
One must realize that datasheets are a combination of marketing information and engineering data regarding the components.

Of course. And that's why I don't hold Anderson blameless when e-bikers purchase a PP45 connector thinking it should be appropriate making 45 amp connections. Of course, I don't hold the e-bikers blameless either.
 
So I'm not hearing a lot of support for the three wire yellow phase wire block with special nuts and ring connectors coming on the more inexpensive kits. Somebody must be using this at 3000 Watts ? Or 5,000 watts.
 
wturber said:
Of course. And that's why I don't hold Anderson blameless when e-bikers purchase a PP45 connector thinking it should be appropriate making 45 amp connections. Of course, I don't hold the e-bikers blameless either.
What blame?
The PP can be used for 45A connections - as the datasheets indicate.

Remember, the datasheets don't say that they can only be used to 30A - that is a decision that Alan made based on what he feels is a good temperature rise "for his application". There are no facts that prove a 45A continuous rating is incorrect. In fact, if pushed to the safe operating limit of the plastic housing housing, the PP45s can handle 65A at room temperature or about 57A at 100degF ambient - in still air with 10ga wire.

The UL test procedure measures the temperature at the point of wire attachment. As anyone who has soldered 10ga wire is aware, the significant heat sinking effect of 10ga wire drops the temperature extremely rapidly in just a couple of inches. The rated 40 deg C temperature rise at 45A (this is less than the temperature of hot tap water) will be reduced to a merely warm wire within inches of the connector.

So - looking at the datasheet values a little differently, we see that in still air at 45A the 10ga wire temperature rise will be in the neighborhood of hot tap water and the 45A current has an operational safety margin of (65A-45A)/45A = 44% to reach the still-safe maximum capacity. Exposed to airflow, the datasheets become inapplicable, but there is little doubt that the temperatures will be further reduced.

This really calls for a little more pragmatic and less specsmanship perspective...

Although it may be true that the 15/30/45 numbers are really just 'part numbers' and not continuous power ratings, it is important to realize that these numbers did not just come out of the air. As you pointed out, looking at datasheets isn't for everyone and these products have a retail consumer market. Clearly Anderson invented these part numbers as a 'rule of thumb' for 'most' applications that gives the non-techies a suitable means to select parts that will work reliably for long periods of time. These are ballpark values based on risk, target market, and technical evaluation - but they are not specific measured facts. So - dismissing the 'part numbers' as meaningless is just silly - some considerable thought went into them for the clear reason of addressing a market audience possessing a non-engineering level of understanding.

Beyond that, it is clear that this 'misunderstanding' about the meaning of the 'part numbers' is reinforced by widespread advertising of this current rating by virtually every retail vendor of the product. If Anderson actually felt that this all-pervasive sales practice was incorrect or compromised their business they would stop it. Instead this misunderstanding is exactly what they want - that the retail vendor present the rule of thumb numbers and the bulk OEM purchasers can sic their Engineers on the datasheets. From Anderson's perspective, even though these values are generalities, the substantial safety margin (44% as noted above) make part failure extremely unlikely.

Anyhow - I use Andersons for all sorts of stuff. I find the primary problem lies with large wire gauges in the requirement of a freely rotating contact in the housing. This is a critical because if the flat blades cannot be held in alignment by the SS springs, the connector cannot achieve the rating specification. The effect will be abnormal heating from the reduced contact area with the expected nasty consequences.

That said, carefully routing, molding, and shaping heavy gauge wire runs prior to affixing the contacts can significantly reduce those specific failures. You need only be careful to align the contact just prior to the crimp to ensure that there is only an initial few degrees of rotational error in the relaxed wire in situ. Crimping an unmounted wire and subsequently routing it can require significant wire twisting to achieve alignment. With heavy gauge wire this can result in torque-loading the contact so that it cannot be aligned properly by the SS springs. IMO this may be the largest cause of failures - not over-currenting the part (or failure of the part to meet spec). Unfortunately, the resulting housing and contact damage looks very much like over-current is the cause. In other words, this failure is a fabrication/installation issue, not a crimping, soldering, or rating issue.

In any case, just another view of the same parts and the same datasheets. I believe the generic rule-of-thumb ratings are acceptable and offer a large safety margin and modest temperatures. I also believe that improper attention to required contact freedom of motion accounts for many temperature-related failures because of the wide documented safety margins when used correctly and the high temperature failure mode of the design when contacts are misaligned.
 
Re imitation Power Poles, the last batch I got looked the same visually, but were noticably out of spec when trying to hook several of the housings together... They either would side part way together and jam, or be loose and pop apart. It seemed like the plastic started deforming at lower temperatures too, leading to an overheating spiral as the spring housings got looser. That's what I get for going cheap.
 
For phase wires I have found 4mm bullets great. For speed and ez use after the 45watt iron heats up. Meaning I hate dicking around with Anderson, jst and different types of white molex ect connections. Then fitting my crimping and solder into the housings. Now to the garage to cut the ring terminals off the new 1,500 edge motor for gold 4mm phase wires. I have given up on 5 pin jst and move to the fat white 6 pin for temp wire.

No common wiring or color code ! WTF.
My girlfriend had an alpha romeo and they would splicing a different colored wire from the engine compartment to the passenger compartment same wire two colors its not just China.
 
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