methods 26kwh Emoli bug build

Arlo1 said:
First off hows your other 100 projects coming along? And secondly Why have a diff? Just wind the motors to wheel rpm and either have hub motors or a good cv shaft strait from the motor to the wheel! I thought you knew this already?


The advantage of a rear-end, is you can put a 6:1 gear ratio in it, and spin the motor 6x faster than wheel speed, and only need 1/6th the motor size/mass/weight to equal the same power of a direct drive setup. ;)

But yeah... you're right, I have 100 other projects to handle before that... lol
 
liveforphysics said:
Arlo1 said:
First off hows your other 100 projects coming along? And secondly Why have a diff? Just wind the motors to wheel rpm and either have hub motors or a good cv shaft strait from the motor to the wheel! I thought you knew this already?


The advantage of a rear-end, is you can put a 6:1 gear ratio in it, and spin the motor 6x faster than wheel speed, and only need 1/6th the motor size/mass/weight to equal the same power of a direct drive setup. ;)

But yeah... you're right, I have 100 other projects to handle before that... lol
HP will only go down as you add more paracidic losses and drag to the system. Torque will be multiplied!
So whith the huge torque potential of electric motors why multiply it? It will just meen more shit to break! Like I meen if you wind motors for 2000-4000 ft/lb per wheel and they make say 200 hp each whats the problem?
 
Ehh, problem is, they still have to be 6 times bigger for the same amount of torque delivered to the wheels.

The 10% power you'll lose in the rear end will be way more than worth it for the ability to get the motor into an efficient RPM range sooner.

Remember, all motors are 0% efficient at 0rpm, and then climb up from there.

Going with a rear-end like this does not make it a reliability concern. It will hold everything you can throw at it to run 5's in the quarter. That should be good enough. ;)
 
Luke...fellow Aussie on Australian Electric Vechicles is building up a trike with some
solid rear end equipment from your parts...using a warp 9 or warp 11 i forget now
http://www.aeva.asn.au/forums/forum_posts.asp?TID=1691&PN=1

This is the diff for his trike, shortened 9in ...cost him a packet.

PIC-1310-1.jpg


KiM
 
He went about that the expensive way, but he will be happy with that final product. That's a good rear-end.

The more parts you can completely cross-off the list of things that can break, the happier you are in the long run if you're doing a sportscar/racecar build.

It's also always the cheapest to just START with the final solution for a rear end (like that $3000 aluminum dragster rear-end), than to put together and break multiple $1000 rear-end setups and axles, only to eventually end up at the $3000 rear-end to finally become reliable.
 
Just for good measure.

file.php
 
If you want a manual tranny to go with it (not that electrics need it.)

http://www.gforcetransmissions.com/tran_gf2000.asp

gf2000_trans.jpg


Then you can run through 5 gears clutchless if you want, and the shift time for all 4 shifts combined will take 0.4seconds, and you'll never have to worry about breaking things. :)
 
Just to further pollute methods thread with stuff he hates, this is a car on a 10.5" wide street legal radial tire (NOT a slick!)
This is the sort of crap you can do if you choose the right rear-end and suspension setups.

Notice, on a street tire, he holds those front wheels perfectly at about 6" off the ground for the first 1/3rd of the track.
Just amazing. An electric with the right chassis setup could be insanely fast with minimal power.

[youtube]epSiay60jWU[/youtube]
 
liveforphysics said:
Ehh, problem is, they still have to be 6 times bigger for the same amount of torque delivered to the wheels.

The 10% power you'll lose in the rear end will be way more than worth it for the ability to get the motor into an efficient RPM range sooner.

Remember, all motors are 0% efficient at 0rpm, and then climb up from there.

Going with a rear-end like this does not make it a reliability concern. It will hold everything you can throw at it to run 5's in the quarter. That should be good enough. ;)
Ok so that number of 6 times depends on the actual gear ratio you use. So if you used 4:1 rear end gears it would be 4 times. And because its being replaced by two wheel motors then it would be only 2 times in a rear wheel drive or it would be the same in a 4 wheel drive vehical!
As for the size of the motor Luke isn't torque in a electric drive system determined but the Amps VS Volts VS RPM x total system eficentcy?
So if you only have 300 amps and 100 volts to run to a motor in the center of the car vs dividing up the 300 amps to all 4 corners!!! You might get more torque to the ground in comparing a single motor with a 4:1 gear ratio, to 4 wheel motors because they wont waste as much in heat!
 
I love what you are doing methods! and you get to short out the battery right to the motor :mrgreen: Very cool!
But I do feel the future of electric vehicals is to eliminate all moving parts possible! You were the first one to point that out to me Methods!
Put the motors in the wheels using light weight motors made from good materials and build it right so that an EV can realy show the world its benifit with No maintencance other then tire changes and wheel bearing changes, and execptional performance and control (anti skid and all the cool stuf of a computer watching 4 wheels) and extreamly hi efficiancy!
 
First, powering the front wheels on anything fast that has the rear wheels powered is useless. (front wheels should be in the air on anything RWD and fast)

Second, the torque production is very much related to motor physical size. Even if you have a magic motor and controller that has infinity current and current handling, and infinity cooling, you are still bound by the strength of the magnets in the rotor to push your field against (and by stator tooth flux saturation etc). When you're looking to push a motor hard for racing, you have defined torque limits based on the size of the flux area, so if you want to match a geared motors torque, you gotta get that flux gap area physically as large as the size increase to match the geared motors advantage to equal the torque and power.

It's why a little geared hub can be 5lbs and match the torque of a 15lbs direct drive hub.

Torque * RPM = power. Anything you can do to get that RPM up is a good thing. Direct drive hubs means the first part of the track is going to be at like <5-10% efficiency, and off the line you're at 0% efficiency. You could spend those same amps and voltage into something that gets into an efficient RPM range 1/6th sooner with a rear-end, and get to use a lot lighter and more compact high RPM motor to milk power from. :)

Plus, for me, I've broken every sort of CV shaft and diff and axle and suspension control arms and suspension mounts on the chassis etc.

Just knowing you can spend just $3k to permanently end all those types of failures makes me froth at the mouth for building a sick RWD electric dragcar, where your only concern becomes burning up motors and controllers, rather than breaking the drive-train AND motors and controllers.
 
Arlo1 said:
But I do feel the future of electric vehicals is to eliminate all moving parts possible! You were the first one to point that out to me Methods!

We have got to crawl before we can walk.
Right now the only affordable way to get into any kind of high power EV is with a series wound motor and transmission.

yea... we could spend $20k right now trying to be on the cutting edge.

OR

We can just sit tight and wait 5 years until all these Nissan Leaf's start getting wrecked.
Let the big boys eat the Early Adopter development costs - then we can buy their salvaged gear for pennies on the dollar.

-methods
 
methods said:
Let the big boys eat the Early Adopter development costs - then we can buy their salvaged gear for pennies on the dollar.
This is a good way to do things--it's worked for almost all of my projects and hobbies, and indeed much of my daily living stuff. ;)
 
liveforphysics said:
First, powering the front wheels on anything fast that has the rear wheels powered is useless. (front wheels should be in the air on anything RWD and fast)

Second, the torque production is very much related to motor physical size. Even if you have a magic motor and controller that has infinity current and current handling, and infinity cooling, you are still bound by the strength of the magnets in the rotor to push your field against (and by stator tooth flux saturation etc). When you're looking to push a motor hard for racing, you have defined torque limits based on the size of the flux area, so if you want to match a geared motors torque, you gotta get that flux gap area physically as large as the size increase to match the geared motors advantage to equal the torque and power.

It's why a little geared hub can be 5lbs and match the torque of a 15lbs direct drive hub.

Torque * RPM = power. Anything you can do to get that RPM up is a good thing. Direct drive hubs means the first part of the track is going to be at like <5-10% efficiency, and off the line you're at 0% efficiency. You could spend those same amps and voltage into something that gets into an efficient RPM range 1/6th sooner with a rear-end, and get to use a lot lighter and more compact high RPM motor to milk power from. :)

Plus, for me, I've broken every sort of CV shaft and diff and axle and suspension control arms and suspension mounts on the chassis etc.

Just knowing you can spend just $3k to permanently end all those types of failures makes me froth at the mouth for building a sick RWD electric dragcar, where your only concern becomes burning up motors and controllers, rather than breaking the drive-train AND motors and controllers.
Your still going to be at 0% effieiency with either design at 0 rpm. And the rpm of the motor will be depending on the design so if you have a motor wound for 1000 rpm at 100 volts it will be in its efficiency at the same time as one wound for 6000 rpm 100 volts and geared down 6x In the end the diff ends up being a drag on power and dead weight and in the case of good suspension a terable design. ( ok for drag racing but not as good for the rest)
And I was thinking more along the lines of a GT car or like a lambo or even a rally car. Not every one lives their life 1/4 mile at a time luke :wink:
 
methods said:
Arlo1 said:
But I do feel the future of electric vehicals is to eliminate all moving parts possible! You were the first one to point that out to me Methods!

We have got to crawl before we can walk.
Right now the only affordable way to get into any kind of high power EV is with a series wound motor and transmission.

yea... we could spend $20k right now trying to be on the cutting edge.

OR

We can just sit tight and wait 5 years until all these Nissan Leaf's start getting wrecked.
Let the big boys eat the Early Adopter development costs - then we can buy their salvaged gear for pennies on the dollar.

-methods
You do have a good point sir! But thats not how I roll! And in any type of performance its nice to try to be the first guy out with something some times!
 
Arlo1 said:
You do have a good point sir! But thats not how I roll! And in any type of performance its nice to try to be the first guy out with something some times!

Then by all means - carry the torch!

I have already done my time on the front lines. Now days I dont mind blowing stuff up to find its limits - but I try to keep the cost of that stuff down to less than a weeks pay.

-methods
 
Problem with that methods is I have a lot to lern to catch up to you and luke and a few others on here when it comes to this stuff! I understand mechanics like nothing and love math when i know that I am solving for but I have a lot to go with electronics! But I will still build some awesome stuff this next while!
 
I have already done my time on the front lines. Now days I dont mind blowing stuff up to find its limits - but I try to keep the cost of that stuff down to less than a weeks pay.

High performance is great but ... as a person that uses an electric car daily, there is something to be said about stuff that just works day in and day out.

If it's something you need (and not just a play thing), you don't mind paying a little something for it.
 
jondoh said:
... there is something to be said about stuff that just works day in and day out.

I know Luke has yet to experience that with an e-bike (of his own) :p :mrgreen: But don't you have a lil lecky car of some sort Luke
or am i getting mixxed up there? hehe i know you were keen on that lil Honda, remember this pic Luke :p -->

Luke_clown_in_Honda.jpg


But I was sure you had a daily driver that was electric that you used for errands and such...

KiM
 
Luke has me working on a "really big" controller concept... I think he is replacing the nitrous snorting monster in his Civic... he muttered something about working on a 3,300S 2P pack! Then this pix showed up in my email... with a comment about how "puny" a lil' red series wound brushed motor looked...

What can I say? :mrgreen: Is there no limit to which they will go?
 
AussieJester said:
I know Luke has yet to experience that with an e-bike (of his own)

Luke told me on the phone today that he has a total of 3 miles on his ebike and 2.5 of those were pushing......

-methods
 
methods said:
AussieJester said:
I know Luke has yet to experience that with an e-bike (of his own)

Luke told me on the phone today that he has a total of 3 miles on his ebike and 2.5 of those were pushing......

-methods

Explains why we haven't seen any video of the 18hp monster I guess :| I thought you had had Infineons hooked up to it with halls Luke and it was all ride able now? i have read many times of the "butter smooth throttle control" you say you get with the infoineons and halls!..... perhaps its just a time issue Methy, Luke has many irons in the fire, only so many hours in a day i guess :wink:

KiM
 
Come on guys Luke cant help it if he has to ride the short bus, like I meen we all sure know he can't ride his ebike! :mrgreen:
 
LOL...

I leave this thread for a few hrs to sleep, and I see it all fall apart into slander and mud-slinging like it was Methy's marrage. :oops: ;) :twisted: 8) :p :mrgreen: LOL!


The ultra bad-ass LCR/ESR/ESL meter showed up today, and I've been measureing all sorts of stuff. This thing is too cool. Getting a low-range LCR meter for a motor/controller builder is like the equalivant of getting a microscope if you're a biologist. You can finally observe the things that before only existed on paper. Set a paper towel down to catch the drool.
I can measure a motor winding and inductance down to 0.000005ohm, and 0.0005nH
It also can measure cap's for me, so we don't have to trust some fudged datasheet anymore, we know how it actually performs. I'm super super excited about it! It's a shame I'm stuck at work and can't play with it right now. :evil:

captest.jpg
 
Very cool luke.!
 
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