Just noticed this thread ... sorry.
A few tips:
Polarized film helps make voltage LEDs readable in daylight.
Heat is the enemy!
Damaging motor heat is much more a result of heavy throttle at the lower, more inefficient, rpms.
Full throttle cruising at 30 mph might produce 1/4 the damaging heat as 15mph up a slight hill.
From a dead stop, an eZip, MY1018Z @ 36v, motor might produce, (37V x 35A = 1295w), ~1295w of damaging heat.
At a dead stop, initial efficiency is 0%.
Efficiency does increase, hitting 50%, (at 40% of no load speed), near 15mph, or 650w of power and 650w of damaging heat.
At near 80% of no load speed (top speed?) efficiency increases to ~75% and amps decrease to ~15-20A.
(37V x 15A = 555w) x.75 = 415w of power + 140w of damaging heat or ...
(37V x 20A = 740w) x.75 = 555w of power + 185w of damaging heat.
Reasonable throttle and pedal assist, especially from a dead stop, can substantially moderate damaging heat production.
I've run an eZip at 37V for 5 years and ~4000 miles, but due to awareness and moderated throttle usage ... with no over heat failures (37V 20.6Ah recycled laptop LiCo in eZip oem pack) See -
Homemade Battery Packs
Efficiency range shifts with partial throttle usage!
75% efficiency attainable at any speed, with restricted throttle!
I recommend pedal assist with a gradual throttle increase until cruising speed attained.
And am tempted and confident in attempting a
44.4V MAGNUM battery pack.
Begin coasting well before you want to stop!
A well tuned bike will maintain good speed for a considerable distance!
(Low roll friction tires
good pressure
wheels "trued"
brakes adjusted
etc.)
Various
eZip re-gearing methods - consolidated.
Various
re-Volting mods.