Mini Hiryuu - Mid power ebike


GRIN did give me this advice almost 3 years ago:

141 is only 3mm on each side compared to 135mm which is the standard for rear slotted drop outs.
You can make any of our solid axle style motors work for your bike. I would recomend one of the following.
1) Our GMAC geared motor which has excellent torque as well as a locked clutch for regenerative braking. The 10T wind would be a good option for extra low end torque.
2) The Nine Continent RH212 is a really robust direct drive motor. It is completely silent and would have virtually no servicing required.
 
Hey if the axle diameter is a fit then i don't see any problem with going to spacers and possibly losing your rear mechanical brake - the regen on either of these motors can be pumped up to levels beyond that of a 203mm mechanical disc. I'm thinking you also lose a few gears but you won't need many.. :)

GMAC should probably be driven by an infineon clone because apparently the phaserunner does drive the motor but stutters at higher RPMs. Cutler mac still sells infineon clones and they're excellent controllers. The extra noise of the infineon would be above your tolerance threshold htough.

RH212 is the budget sleeper motor here; i'm too picky about efficiency to try it
 
I don’t see the GRIN all-axle overheating in a 24” on steep climbs in the motor simulator
 
Hey if it works in your situation.. that's all that matters.

We can get down to 80% efficiency at a 5% grade.

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But if we swap to 22", we shift that pain point to about an 6.2% grade. ( going slower as a result of the wheel size difference helps a bit too )

1714008818902.png

If you don't have rollercoaster like terrain like i do in the mountains, 24" will do fine.
 
Build update!

em3ev 'king shark' is finally here, it's basically just a Reention DP9 like ebikes.ca's, but with a bluetooth BMS.

I have 24" tubes and a 60mm XT connector on the way.
Should have the bike running with the all axle motor very shortly.

As for the bikee mid drive, i'm still waiting on parts since the 11th... it's being thrown in to the back of my motor evaluation queue.
 
As for the bikee mid drive, i'm still waiting on parts since the 11th... it's being thrown in to the back of my motor evaluation queue.

Wait, you ordered parts from Bikee on the 11th and they just ghosted you? I had an offer to buy my Lightest motor, but mine is just going in the parts bin for now.
 
Nah, i actually had a consult afterwards that was great.

I got an email that PAS sensors were in on the 26th and they were on some holiday, but they're about a week past the date they said would ship.
 
Mini hiryuu is coming together!

I bought a 24" front wheel with disc brake but decided i really didn't like the look of it.
Put a 26" x 1.95" up front and i have a 24" x 2.4" Kenda cargo tire out back.

The front tire measures as 25.5" and the rear measures 24.5". At a distance, the tires look like equal size, and i'm pleasantly surprised at how non-goofy the 24/26" setup looks.

I plan to run the rear tire at -10 PSI versus the front so that it can contribute some rear 'suspension'. Fingers crossed that we have adequate ride quality at 30mph between the tire, smooshy seat, and suspension seatpost... despite the slightly reduced tire diameter.

mini hiryu.jpg

My cannondale recumbent had a 113mm wide bottom bracket and 175mm crank arms. I decided to reproduce that setup on this bike because my long legs loved it.

Have a 48T chainring on it but it probably needs more like a 56T. BB might actually be able to get narrower too. Will ride and adjust from there.

mini hiryu 2.jpg

Without the front fork compressed and with some low profile pedals, i still have a little over 4 inches of ground clearance, which should be adequate for road riding.

If i need more, it's probably not much. There do exist 24 x 2.6" tires, and i could easily get a taller front tire to help add clearance if i'm wrong about this.


What's left?

Crucial:

[ ] Find out how the heck to get a ebrake lever hooked up to this Phaserunner v2, since Grin is having problems with their phaserunners and i can't buy a new one.. Sent Grin an email. New Phaserunners are out of stock..
[ ] Waiting on delivery of the satiator charger cable and triple bob.
[ ] Support bracket for the frame bag to push it forward so more battery weight sits over the front fork.

Not Crucial:

[ ] Buy flatout sealant for rear tire.
[ ] Custom rear rack that takes advantage of the smaller rear wheel, allowing the cargo to sit lower and more towards me for a better center of gravity than a typical 26" rack. Or i may modify an existing one.
[ ] Rear panniers to hide the motor.
 
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Pls be careful with -10 PSI in the rear!
Less pressure is appropriate for a fatter tire. The cross-sectional area of a 2.4" tire is about 1.5X that of a 1.95" tire, so anything up to about that inverse ratio of pressure is good. However, rear tires almost always carry more weight and therefore should have higher effective pressure.
 
I'm talkin' 40PSI up front ( we have an air shock up front, who cares ) and 30PSI out back.
Rear tire is 24 x 2.4".
 
I'm talkin' 40PSI up front ( we have an air shock up front, who cares ) and 30PSI out back.
Rear tire is 24 x 2.4".
To have the "same" pressure in a 2.4" tire as a 1.95" tire at 40 psi, the fatter tire would be at 27 psi. Because the "more pressure in back" rule applies, you're doing it about right.
 
Makes sense!


I'm a bit crabby, the build is stalled because i can't get a new phaserunner ( continually out of stock ) and apparently running a ebrake lever on my ~2015 era phaserunner without an era appropriate CA is experimental.

I also read that the L10 connector can only handle 85 phase amps for a burst.. the manufacturer rates it for 45A continuous:
Suzhou Cusmade Electronic Technology Co., Ltd.

This means that during acceleration and hill climbing, i'm wasting some % of my energy in the wires and also the battery, which is saggy itself.

It sounds like the motor could benefit from 4mm hobbyking bullet connectors on the phase wires as usual and possibly upsized wires.

Simulator says that for a 24.4" tire, peak ( saturated ) torque is the following:
50A 120A phase 3077 controller: 77ft-lbs
Phaserunner: 65.9 ft-lbs

There's probably another 5 ft-lbs of torque potential with thicker cabling; even if i never run that power level, the couple percent efficiency i get is worth it because a 19.5ah 52v battery is going to be saggy, and i want to utilize it right near the point of what we'd considered abusing the component, and no more..

..off to see if i can get a controller from cutler mac.
 
Grin got back to me. I had to escalate the question up to level 10 tech support ( Justin )

Apparently there is a hidden blue wire in the throttle connector of the Phaserunner V2. A on-off brake throttle can be wired between the black ground wire and the blue brake wire.

Really glad i didn't have to get another controller because Grin is currently out of phaserunners while they are working out a technical issue with the current batch of controllers.
 
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