Motorcycle Class Cargo Bike: Power, Distance, Stealth, Grins

[Alan B]

Lyen controllers have this controller power wire to the regulator input. At least the several I have do.

Leaving main power connected, even if the controller power lead is "off" results in a continuous low drain. At 18S it is more than an amp hour per week. So if you ride to near LVC and park without charging it can ruin the pack in a few days.

So it all depends on your usage and charging patterns and expectations. Even if I charged and parked for just 2 weeks I would be down 20% if I didn't top up on my 10AH pack. With Ryan's 32AH pack it is much less of an issue. If he parks with only 10% remaining it will take about 3 weeks to damage the bigger pack.

Note that leakage rates may vary with controller. If the controller has been stressed these rates can get worse if the FETs or other components are partially damaged.

 

[chroot]

You would want this Smart switch from kfong. viewtopic.php?f=31&t=32135

Peace your mind! 8)

 

[ryan]

Check out just how large these Maxi Fuse holders are! It's as big as a Battery Medic! (2x as thick too)

There's no way I'm going to fit this in my enclosure.

 

[ryan]

So I tried to solder to a Maxi Fuse directly.

And this happened...

 

[ohzee]

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3150583

how about one of those ? Should hold that fuse shouldn't it ? I bought one , but never used it.

Keep up the good work watching this thread with anticipation.

 

[ryan]

Yes, I have little fuse holders and fuses too. But those aren't rated high enough. The one you linked to is only rated 30A 12/24VDC.

 

[ohzee]

Cool yea really just meant something similar should have realized you'd be aware of that.

just had not seen anyone solder to a fuse like that before. Seems like a bit of work if it does short out ?

Still all the soldering you have done probably pretty simple.

 

[ryan]

I was going to solder 2 fuses at a time in case one blew.

But the fuse plastic melts too easily. I may give it another shot with a lower powered soldering iron.

 

[amberwolf]

A lower powered iron is only going to take longer to solder them together, and will end up heating the plastic *more*, by the time you get the wire/tab soldered.

What you want is a *hotter* iron to solder faster, but if necessary use a metal clip as a heatsink on the fuse tab between the plastic and the point being soldered. (as close to the plastic as practical)


BTW, there's nothing wrong with a little melted plastic on the fuse, if it's only as bad as the pic shows.

 

[ryan]

Thanks AW.

What about fusible link wire? Isn't that essentially what a fuse is? Would this work?

8awg ===> 8mm bullets ===> 12awg (1/2inch?) ===> 8mm bullets ===> 8awg

Do I understand that correctly? Is 12awg enough? 18awg better? Could I / Should I use smaller bullets?

 

[amberwolf]

I've never dealt with fusible link stuff except in a car, where I've simply replaced it with a pre-made piece of same. So i don't know enough to answer that part.

 

[ryan]

Here's my DIY MAXI fuse redux. What do you think? Will it work?

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[Diamondback]

looks good. can't see any reason it wouldn't work.

Jason.

 

[ryan]

Check out my running board support beams.

Here's the part from McMaster: Architectural Aluminum (Alloy 6063), U-Channel, 1/8" Thickness, 3/4" Base X 3/4" Legs, 8' L

I tried L shape first but it twisted under weight. This u-channel should be great. If not I also have an even thicker steel strut on hand.

 

[ryan]

While I'm at it here's my revised fuse holder. I'm not sure I'll end up using it because I'm using a 100A 100vcd circuit breaker, but just in case...

 

[teklektik]

Check out my running board support beams.

Here's the part from McMaster: Architectural Aluminum (Alloy 6063), U-Channel, 1/8" Thickness, 3/4" Base X 3/4" Legs, 8' L

I tried L shape first but it twisted under weight. This u-channel should be great. If not I also have an even thicker steel strut on hand.

Ahh - a ghost from the Several Yuba Mundo Builds thread!
Looks good - since you're using bricks instead of individual cells, that should do very nicely even with a bit of flex.

BTW - you can also get stock extrusions like this from eBay - you can call or message to see if they will cut it up for you to save shipping.

 

[John in CR]

While I'm at it here's my revised fuse holder. I'm not sure I'll end up using it because I'm using a 100A 100vcd circuit breaker, but just in case...

1000% better. I just hardwire my fuses in near the battery.

 

[teklektik]

While I'm at it here's my revised fuse holder. I'm not sure I'll end up using it because I'm using a 100A 100vcd circuit breaker, but just in case...

Probably a good plan to use both - fuse in/near (minimum amount of intervening wire) your sideloaders to protect your batteries against chafing and connection mishaps and rely on the breaker to protect your controller and remaining harness from chafing and major controller/motor mishaps. It can go anywhere convenient in the main harness. I believe the magnetic breaker will trip before the fuses, so when using both, the fuses are really just a localized subsystem protection against issues out of reach of the breaker.

 

[ryan]

Ahh - a ghost from the Several Yuba Mundo Builds thread!

Exactly right! Here's your original suggestion. See, I listen!