Motorcycle Class Cargo Bike: Power, Distance, Stealth, Grins

Thanks IC.

Here's the completed harness...

photo.JPG

All bullets are equipped with IC's 5.5mm bullet housing trick. For the 8mm male bullets I simply plugged in an already heat shrink'd 8mm female bullet and heated the heat shrink around that shape. It's a tight fit. Certainly water resistant. I wouldn't want to submerge the bike in water, but if rain got in my running board enclosure I'm confident these connections wouldn't short.

Next up, JST extensions...

Oh, and my Battery Medics should be coming in by Friday.
 
How bad is this idea? 1-10?

Methods sent me some extra 7pin JST connectors and I figured out if I did this I wouldn't need to solder at all. But is this just a terrible idea?
 

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Alan B said:
Hi Ryan. I need a wiring harness for the ride Saturday. Want to make another?
Click to expand...

Ha! That is quite a vote in confidence from a true pro.

Unfortunately I'm running low on both time and silicone wire. IceCube's your man though. I'd ping him about a quick turn-a-round. It also means I'll have to miss out on the epic 100 mile adventure. Take lots of pics.

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Ive so been on the fence about my rebuild. I want to get 8AH but they arent cost effective vs the 5AH. But nice job on the harness. It looks similar to one i did for a guy in canada.
 
icecube57 said:
Ive so been on the fence about my rebuild. I want to get 8AH but they arent cost effective vs the 5AH. But nice job on the harness. It looks similar to one i did for a guy in canada.
Click to expand...

For me it wasn't as much about cost as it was about Ah per connection. More Ah per pack means less wires. 4P for me is 32Ah instead of 20Ah.

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ryan said:
icecube57 said:
Ive so been on the fence about my rebuild. I want to get 8AH but they arent cost effective vs the 5AH. But nice job on the harness. It looks similar to one i did for a guy in canada.
Click to expand...

For me it wasn't as much about cost as it was about Ah per connection. More Ah per pack means less wires. 4P for me is 32Ah instead of 20Ah.

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Click to expand...

I totally agree with you. It would be a sweet simple setup with the 8ah pack and i want to get 30-32AH myself. Im still trying to decide what voltage and among other things. But for me money is key and its easier for me to spend 42 bucks and get a 6s 5AH brich than to drop 75-80 and get less wh.
 
I too like the lower number of connections of the 8AH bricks. That is traded against the Turnigy being slightly better in terms of AH. The Zippy 8AH seem to be a bit over-rated, so I consider them to be maybe 7AH until I get more data, based on what I've read. The turnigy may sag a bit less also. But they're both good batteries.

In this ride I'm planning to temporarily mix them because I don't have enough of either one.

Ryan, what do you need to finish? I might be able to help.
 
I need to move my motor, controller, CA over from my other Yuba. Assemble the packs inside the running boards. Balance my packs with my soon-to-arrive battery medics. Charge.

But if my hacked JST jumper to extension method is flawed I also need to extend my JSTs. Is it flawed?

And all that is contingent on everything going according to plan.

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I did not read this thread but responding to a PM.
This is the way to do it.

Polarized
Locked in

Do not do it the way shown above.




Note that one side is upside down... don't reverse polarity :mrgreen:

-methods
 
Can anyone recommend a small power switch appropriate for my setup?

I'm thinking I can go two ways with it... First a smaller switch on my Lyen controller or a larger switch that is actually on the main power lead. Is the small controller switch enough?
 
The small switch on the controller is good to have. It will leave the controller partly energized and this was enough to drain my pack noticeably in a couple of weeks. So for a few days that's fine, but for longer term storage you want to interrupt the main conductors. Kfong has a board for this, and I have one also that I have not tested yet. Of you can use one of the big disconnect switches or relay contactors. A precharge resistor is also indicated.
 
I did not read the entire thread but...

I would keep your primary power hard wired. Do not attempt to switch your main power on and off.
Use just about any switch to turn the controller power on and off. There is no real current flowing so just about any standard 250V button or toggle will work.

By controller power, I mean a switch between your system voltage (66V) and the voltage regulator in your controller.
All Crystalyte and Ebikes.ca controllers have this.
Lyen controllers *should* have a red wire coming out of them that can be switched to the main power.

-methods
 
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