MXUS 3000 Hub Motor - V1 V2 V3

[farmerjoe99]

What is a

Boeshield T9

Looks like its a rust remover and sealer:
http://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-T-9-Waterproof-Lubrication-aerosol/dp/B001447PEK

 

[Rix]

What is a

Boeshield T9

The best stuff thats non paint/epoxy that can be sprayed on the inside of hub motors and electric motors in general.

 

[markz]

Rix - Better then Varnish?

 

[Rix]

Rix - Better then Varnish?

Not better than varnish, its not a varnish, paint, or epoxy coating. Its kind of a cross between dry lube and a hard based wax. When its applied, it leaves a super thin layer of dry lube behind. Its tough enough you have to use mineral spirits to remove it. I have been running this on all my vented motors and still no rust.

 

[ecycler]

Of note, currently when I spin the wheel, theres drag but its jittery. Throttle was taped to half throttle.
What is that an indication of?
Maybe a blown FET?

Yes, that is a definitely an indication of a either a blown FET or shorted phases wires if the intermittent drag feels like you are fighting the magnets when you turn it. First unplug the phase wires and see if goes away, then you will know if it is the motor or control. After hearing about your alligator clip incident it is most likely that you blew some FETs in the controller when you shorted the phases together. You can test both the motor phase wires and controller FETs with your DMM to double check them. It is quite easy.
http://www.ebikes.ca/documents/BlownMosfets.pdf

 

[macribs]

What is a

Boeshield T9

The best stuff thats non paint/epoxy that can be sprayed on the inside of hub motors and electric motors in general.

Hm. Wonder if the same oil used on shot guns and rifles will do for hub motors? A thin coat prevent rust on shot guns in the harshest climate.
I've been holding back on the vanish for the 205 as I read people experienced rubbing noise when combined with Ferrofluid.

When I read the Boeshield T9 webpage is was like watching those late night TV shops adds. The website contained so many nice word about all the glory of the T9 I must say it kind of felt like that wonderful wax you can get from TV shop that will make the paintjob withstand flame, knives, hot air gun and what not. It was just too much marketing BS, so my guess is they have bought bulk thin machine oil on drums. And repackage into smaller bottles and sell with "amazing features" and a really heavy mark up.

 

[markz]

I should have done all these tests before I opened the motor and cut my 10AWG PTFE Teflon phase wires in frustration.
I am sure its something simple.

Yellow phase wire, first 3 mosfets are shorted.
Will either send to Lyen, Grin Tech or local electronics repair shop.

 

[cwah]

motor should all be sprayed by default

 

[markz]

Next time if someone has their MXUS 3000W V2 motor open, snap a pic of the hall sensor and wiring, because I want my color code to be the same as stock. I ripped mine out even though there was probably nothing wrong with them, just some leads broke so I tried to pop it out, ended up breaking the other halls leads. The test I did on them was good. I need to do it properly.

http://www.ebikes.ca/learn/documents.html
http://www.ebikes.ca/documents/HubMotorHallSensorReplacement.pdf

 

[Rix]

The best stuff thats non paint/epoxy that can be sprayed on the inside of hub motors and electric motors in general.[
Hm. Wonder if the same oil used on shot guns and rifles will do for hub motors? A thin coat prevent rust on shot guns in the harshest climate.
I've been holding back on the vanish for the 205 as I read people experienced rubbing noise when combined with Ferrofluid.

When I read the Boeshield T9 webpage is was like watching those late night TV shops adds. The website contained so many nice word about all the glory of the T9 I must say it kind of felt like that wonderful wax you can get from TV shop that will make the paintjob withstand flame, knives, hot air gun and what not. It was just too much marketing BS, so my guess is they have bought bulk thin machine oil on drums. And repackage into smaller bottles and sell with "amazing features" and a really heavy mark up.

I haven't read the reviews on the web page. I can't remember who turned me on to T9, I think it may have been Justin from Grin, but I can't remember as it was so long ago. Ferrofluid is on my next to try list, when I get some in.

 

[markz]

FF is out of stock, I wanted to buy some myself. Hopefully Justin can get the data he needs and can start selling the magical fluid again.

 

[korpin]

just wanted to share email i got from AMY who works for MXUS:

Hello Jack ,
I am Amy , may I know are you customers of our company ?
Thanks for your note of our new super powerful motor . It is new upgrades of V2 .
V3 motor and cover cannot put into the V2, because V3 stator is bent , and the axle of V3 is bigger .
If you want to know the difference, the link writes perfectly.
"The 3K-Turbo, upgrades the axle from 17mm to 20mm diameter on the wire side with a larger bearing to squeeze in 5.26mm² phase wires (76% increase in cross-sectional area): Larger phase wires reduces the resistance and increases the efficiency of the power delivery to the motor. In addition, the 3K-Turbo adds a spare set of hall & temp wires for double-redundancy more reliability. The larger phase wires are particularly beneficial for the 3T and 4T windings where the cross-sectional area of the winding very close to the same 5.26mm²."

OK , now would you like one sample , one sample total is 239$ including shipping to your company.
If you like it ,let me know .By the way ,if you add my Skype : rollyyou
That would be great .
Best regards
Amy

 

[korpin]

I have an almost brand new 5T MXUS motor.....originally i was going to use 110 volts nominal system but I wanted Adappto and now its 86 volts nominal the 30 volts drop means I need a 4t to get the speed I wanted(i get about 42 MPH wether its on normal or overdrive)....so anybody interested?..my plan is to swap stator and covers and use existing shell (i already built wheel)....so it would be a slightly used 5T (about 10 rides) with V3 shell and magnets

edit..i boosted up amps to 35 got up to 48 mph probably helped by a little wind....still want the new version with thicker wires since i am going to have to use more amps now that i am only at 86 volts

 

[korpin]

venting my V3....did the left side holes...thinking of putting "doors" on other side to scoop in air so it can escape other side cooling in the process

 

[miuan]

I have an almost brand new 5T MXUS motor.....originally i was going to use 110 volts nominal system but I wanted Adappto and now its 86 volts nominal the 30 volts drop means I need a 4t to get the speed I wanted(i get about 42 MPH wether its on normal or overdrive)....so anybody interested?..my plan is to swap stator and covers and use existing shell (i already built wheel)....so it would be a slightly used 5T (about 10 rides) with V3 shell and magnets

edit..i boosted up amps to 35 got up to 48 mph probably helped by a little wind....still want the new version with thicker wires since i am going to have to use more amps now that i am only at 86 volts

You are going to use more amps (about 56% more) with the 4T to get the same power as you get with the 5t. So going from 2.5mm to 4mm wires will keep the things almost the same, not really too much help unless you stay with a 5T winding and go thicker on the wire side.

 

[Rix]

I have an almost brand new 5T MXUS motor.....originally i was going to use 110 volts nominal system but I wanted Adappto and now its 86 volts nominal the 30 volts drop means I need a 4t to get the speed I wanted(i get about 42 MPH wether its on normal or overdrive)....so anybody interested?..my plan is to swap stator and covers and use existing shell (i already built wheel)....so it would be a slightly used 5T (about 10 rides) with V3 shell and magnets

edit..i boosted up amps to 35 got up to 48 mph probably helped by a little wind....still want the new version with thicker wires since i am going to have to use more amps now that i am only at 86 volts

You are going to use more amps (about 56% more) with the 4T to get the same power as you get with the 5t. So going from 2.5mm to 4mm wires will keep the things almost the same, not really too much help unless you stay with a 5T winding and go thicker on the wire side.

This doesn't sound right. If copper fill was the same for the 5T as the 4T, which it isn't, would only be looking at about 20% more amps and 20% less volts for the 4T to perform like the 5T, this is also provided Phase to DC amp ratio was the same, and wheel size was the same.

 

[miuan]

Oh, my bad. The actual difference will be close to 25%.

 

[Rix]

Oh, my bad. The actual difference will be close to 25%.

I was thinking maybe you had a typo, I do it all the time.

 

[miuan]

Oh, my bad. The actual difference will be close to 25%.

I was thinking maybe you had a typo, I do it all the time.

Certainly no. If it was a typo, then the 2,5 to 4 mm wire comparison would no longer be valid

 

[Rix]

Oh, my bad. The actual difference will be close to 25%.

I was thinking maybe you had a typo, I do it all the time.[

Certainly no. If it was a typo, then the 2,5 to 4 mm wire comparison would no longer be valid

No worries amigo, we can always compare the ebike simulator findings and know exactly what the difference is.

 

[korpin]

i saw all the posts above was thinking 4t gave more speed but less torque than 5t regardless of amps.........i was also thinking of venting/increasing phase wire size on 5t while i am using 4t

also...regardless of speed at same amps a 4t SHOULD run cooler than 5t correct?

(i made center holes a tad bit bigger after photo (roughly 3 times more area since there are 8 center and 24 outer holes)

 

[Rix]

Hey Dorian, are you temp monitoring your MXUS? Here is part of a conversation I had with Justin from Grin cycles http://www.ebikes.ca about 3 years ago.

Rix:
So if the copper fill is the same, then the amount of winds effects only the potential for top speed at a set voltage. If that is the case, and if I am understanding correctly, than would that mean that a 5405 running 80 volts at 50Ah would perform similarly to a 5403 running 58 volts at 70Ah with total current being right around 4KW?

Justin: Exactly (well with the 5403 at 64V, not 58V). To be totally equivalent, the controller current limit of your 64V 5404 setup should also be 25% higher than the controller current limit of the 80V 5405, so if the you had say a 40A controller with the 5405, you'd want a 50A controller with the 5404.

Rix: So if that's the case, both motors can be set up to mimic each other with thrust and speed at the same peak KW just by playing around with volts/amps combinations?

Justin: Yup

Rix: Would that also mean that the only advantage would in slight efficiency increase from running a higher wind stator with more volts and less amps VS running a lower turn stator with less volts and more amps?

Justin: Exactly exactly. The 5403 as you have noticed does indeed have a lower copper fill factor hence it's not fully equivalent, but as you noticed both the 04 and 05 windings seem to be just the same.

Rix: I really appreciate your time in answering my questions and want to thank you for taking the time to educate me.

 

[korpin]

Hey Dorian, are you temp monitoring your MXUS? o be just the same.

[/quote]

my 5t seemed to have inaccurate temp sensor...hopefully my 4t will be better sensor...but i do know that is gets really hot even on flat ground going around 30 at 86 volts and 35 amps running on sine wave

thinking at the very least 4t SHOULD run cooler at same voltage amps

 

[Rix]

[/quote]

With the extreme high voltages you seem to always run, your 5t is better. Inductance load is less and easier on your controller with the 5t, out of all the MXUS, the 4T has the most copper fill. It will handle more total watts because of that. Doc Bass has a 2wd set up with the MXUS front and rear and bursting over 32kw through them. Thats 16,000 watts per motor. I don't think any of the other MXUS would be as happy doing this https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=71646

 

[Allex]

Small holes wont do that much(they will work like airpockets), better to go with fewer larger holes(helps to scoop up Air). If you motor gets hot you probably have wrong tuning on the controller.