My new electric motorcycle
- Thread starter Albie72
- Start date
Based on the other info in the picture, it is showing a readout of the Fardriver controller setup / settings / info page(s).
The "true" motor rating may be harder to determine, unless it has motor-manufacturer ratings on it (rather than ratings placed there by the MC manufacturer).
But as an example, a QS205-50H by QSmotors is rated about 3000w, and weighs roughly 40lbs. Some pics of one here:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=67833&p=1526261&hilit=qs205%2A#p1526261
Note that people have used them at much higher power than that rating (the one in the pics was used up to 11kw, IIRC, before the original owner sheared the axle ends off).
As a general rule of thumb, to get higher power capability generally one needs more mass of copper and iron, all other conditions the same (motor speed, etc), so to get a "10kw" motor one would need roughly three times as much motor, so it might weigh almost three times as much (and be that much larger in various dimensions). Various design factors may change this significantly either direction; it's only a very rough basic guide.
A motor that spins faster for the same power output can be smaller, but the speed has to be proportionally faster to the size change / power needed, so a middrive motor rather than hubmotor, with gearing reduction between them to change motor speed into wheel torque.
The "true" motor rating may be harder to determine, unless it has motor-manufacturer ratings on it (rather than ratings placed there by the MC manufacturer).
But as an example, a QS205-50H by QSmotors is rated about 3000w, and weighs roughly 40lbs. Some pics of one here:
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=67833&p=1526261&hilit=qs205%2A#p1526261
Note that people have used them at much higher power than that rating (the one in the pics was used up to 11kw, IIRC, before the original owner sheared the axle ends off).
As a general rule of thumb, to get higher power capability generally one needs more mass of copper and iron, all other conditions the same (motor speed, etc), so to get a "10kw" motor one would need roughly three times as much motor, so it might weigh almost three times as much (and be that much larger in various dimensions). Various design factors may change this significantly either direction; it's only a very rough basic guide.
A motor that spins faster for the same power output can be smaller, but the speed has to be proportionally faster to the size change / power needed, so a middrive motor rather than hubmotor, with gearing reduction between them to change motor speed into wheel torque.
Dui ni shuo de dui
10 kW
colworth said:
This is a programmable controller so it is whatever you set (or whatever the factory set as a limit).
The controller has no way of knowing what your motor is.
Dui ni shuo de dui
10 kW
colworth said:
I just checked again on my controller, I made a mistake, my apologies for that: this parameter can not be changed by regular users in the app. This means that it came like that from the Fardriver Factory.
I don't think this matters, what actually matter are battery current and phase current, I don't think this parameter makes any difference.
The controller is a 150A battery and 330A phase controller, so it's comparable to a Sabvoton SVMC72150 which is a 8-10KW controller.
In my opinion no one is to be blamed here, the controller matches the motor since it is running it and nothing seems to overheat. It is on the low power band of the spectrum since this is a heavy bike, but it would be considered a high power unit in a moped and this is a really good controller actually. But using an overpowered motor with a low power, but good quality controller is a good way to make the bike reliable. It is of course cheaper too :wink:
Choice of controllers and expected performance is the kind of things that needs to be discussed before buying, but I do understand that this is difficult sometimes because you don't always get clear answers from the sellers and also most people aren't familiar with how things work when they buy their first electric bike.
Talking from some experience in chinese electric motorcycles, I can say that they are a lot of fun, but they need to be considered as project bikes. Something that you will have to put some work in to get the results you want. If you buy these expecting to get something on par with a Honda or a Kawasaki out of the box then you will not be satisfied, there will be a lot of things to change. :wink:
Thanks for ur reply but the problem I'm having is when I ordered the motorcycle I told him that I was going to buy a 120ah lithium because they only had a 80ah. He told me that I have a 10000w motor and controller will handle the bigger battery. I'm looking at it like a rc cars I'm into. If I have a 10000w motor my controller should handle the motor and bigger battery just like if I bought a brushless system my esc should handle a 3 cell lipo or 4 cell
I didn't pay alot for the motorcycle it does around 70mph not 90mph like they said I bought it to learn about the motorcycle. Also to start selling them but I can't have a good business if I'm selling what it really isn't.i watch a guy on YouTube with the same set up and he hits 80mph 10000w and 80 battery same bike but looks like a r3
Albie72 said:
A few points the seller apparently doesn't understand:
The controller doesn't handle the battery, as far as capacity in Ah is concerned.
The battery handles the controller/motor demand.
Bigger battery (all other conditions the same) handles the demand (load) better.
If it was a higher *voltage* battery, *then* the controller would need to be able to handle that. But a higher *Ah* (capacity) battery makes no demands of the controller at all; the controller just makes demands of the battery.
Albie72 said:
No, you may have a controller set to 3000w, but you can't know what the motor actually is unless it has labelling on it with specifications, or a motor model number and motor manufacturer you can then locate and get the motor manufacturer specs for.
What the controller is, or is set to for programmable ones, does not tell you what your motor actually is.
It only tells you what the controller itself is able to output, should the motor demand that under load.
Dui ni shuo de dui
10 kW
Albie72 said:
The seller is correct, it will handle a 120Ah battery. It can even handle a 1200000Ah battery if you wanted to.
No offense, but you are the one who asked an incorrect question, 120Ah is not a measure of power, it is a measure of capacity. Any capacity can be handled by any system, you can consider capacity being the same as the size of a petrol tank on a gas car: any engine can handle any size of fuel tank, it doesn't really matter (to some extent of course).
You really need to do a bit more homework to fully understand how it works, this is the second time you are doing this mistake. Especially if you intend on selling these bikes someday. :wink:
Again, I mean no offense here, just be sure to understand what you are talking about before taking your frustration to the seller of the bike, he will not take you seriously if you are complaining about stuff that doesn't make sense.
For example here you are also mistaken between capacity and number of cells... In your example the number of cells determine the voltage, not the capacity.
There is too much of a knowledge gap right now between you and the manufacturer, you need to take some time to fully understand how things work.
amberwolf said:
Not even, he has a controller set to about 8000W right now (72V 150A battery 330 A phase, I say 8000W as a very conservative figure, it is more about 10KW in reality). :wink:
He sold you a motor that says 10000w but is really 3000w. After showing the seller your specs, he has gone silent on me and shipped the bike the next day after questioning him. I told him not to ship it until he verified motor specs with me. I should have realized when upgrading from 3000w to 10000w was only a $185 difference.
Similar threads
