Nanjing far driver controllers

I have a problem with the speedometer in the super soco tc max that does not show the speed at all. There are two wires 458A and 485B for communication coming out of the meter and I connected them to the analog speed wire purple and light blue speed line as in the diagram but nothing, still no speed.That's all I have left to get the bike to work properly and I can't wait to ride it :)
 

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485 is probalby RS485 which is a serial communication interface.

RS-485 - Wikipedia

en.wikipedia.org en.wikipedia.org
That means the meter requires specific serial data in a specific format to tell it what to display, which you'd have to check the meter manual to find out what that is (it isn't part of the 485 spec, it's something specific to each device using 485), and then most likely to build something (arduino, etc) that takes the output you have from the controller for speed and converts it to what the display requires.

However, if the voltages on the analog speed purple and blue wires you have connected them to are greater than the 485's voltage input range, those inputs may be damaged and you may need a new meter to do this with as the original may not operate now (not be able to read any input at all). Some of the speed wires on controllers are a copy of the phase wire voltage, so they are actually battery level and will destroy logic-level parts and inputs.


Note that normally you only use one of the two speed output wires for your display, whcihever one matches the voltage and signal requirements of the display meter, for those meters that can accept that specific kind of signal and voltage.
 
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Thanks for the answer, the counter definitely works because after the ignition, the needle always turns to the max and then returns like in sports motorcycles, so it is definitely operational :) after connecting these wires from the controller, it did not even budge, so I suspect that the voltage is simply too low . Unfortunately, I have no knowledge of arduino but it would be a very good idea because as you say it must be more complicated communication. You can still change the counter from another typically digital model, but I'd rather stay with it :)
 
Internally operational and being damaged at it's inputs unable to read data are possible at the same time, unfortunately.

Was this unit used successfully on a different system? Or is this new to your system entirely?
 
it worked normally on the old controller, on the new one it does not work but I think I will replace it with a digital one because I'm tired of it and a lot of wasted time :) Dedicated digital will be much better because all functions will work
 
Sounds like a plan, but for reference:

What kind of signal did the old controller provide? (and what is the brand/model of the old controller?)
 
Perhaps I asked already, but with the search function I could not find the answer.

Does the Fardriver support NTC 200k as temperature sensor.
In the next days I want to put a new tyre on my QS60V5000W hub motor and I want to add a temperature sensor to the windings.

My Fardriver App talks chinese to my at the moment.
 
hello guys,

i need your help for something maybe stupid but its driving me crazy, i connected my fardriver to the pc i have the data, but its impossible to change the overvoltage protect and restore , since im 72v the previous owner at 90.7v.

no matter if i change the value, it either became gray (cannot overwrite) and when i can, the otiginal value cames back instantly, i dont even know how to save, i usualy use the app phone but i can't change on it . thanks to anyone
IMG_20230321_222431.jpgIMG_20230322_111640.jpg it doesnt allow me to change it
 
AdR said:
I have a ND96530. Running a 24s battery which mean max voltage of 100.8V. Had to set nominal voltage to 79V in order to get over voltage protection to show 99.8V. They definitely have some serious series# to max voltage calculation issues. This now show my model # to be 79530.
Click to expand...
Found this on page 17 , this could be your solution
 
I've already done 300km my super soco and everything is fine except one. When the handle is unscrewed to the max, the engine starts to vibrate strangely, as if it was getting lost at a large phase current. What can you do about it? it is rare to start like this to the max but I don't want to burn it :) A friend said that it may be the fault of the hall sensors of the wrong reading angle.The engine is a copy of the qs 138 70h. Maybe it has something to do with the fact that I set everything at 500rpm to 100%?
 

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Wow. I just got an ND72530 and it has explosive power but what a pain it has been to setup. I came from a Kelly KVD controller and it has no flux/field weakening so the top speed is capped early.

I use the Bluetooth connection through the Android app.

  • Here are some tips I have learned that may help some people getting started:
  • The orange wire by itself needs to have battery voltage (or at least 12v?) to trigger the unit on.
  • The 3 speed switch wiring needs to be addressed now or it will cause confusion. If you aren't going to use a 3 speed switch, there is a single wire jumper that should be wrapped around the 3 wire connector. Click that in and it will engage high speed only. If you don't connect the jumper, it will be set to the middle speed setting. If for some reason you don't have the jumper, not a problem. Just go to the parameters later and set "mid speed line ratio / mid speed phase ratio / mid speed RPM" all to 100% and max settings.
  • Do not go to your phone's bluetooth settings and try to pair your controller to your phone. Just open the app and go to to the "comm" tab. Hit "scan" at the top, click the YUAN item, and then click "connect" on the top right. It will say "connected" if successful".
  • Your controller will probably beep 2 times, then one long beep, and then keep repeating. This means you need to do the auto learn. Before you do this, I highly recommend going to the Parameters page and clicking on the EXPERT button to access more functions. Scroll to the FUNCTIONS group and disable the FOLLOW item. Set your battery voltage and line/phase current, max RPM correctly, then begin auto learn. If you don't know the max RPM or rated RPM, just put 12,000 or something for both and the auto learn should sort it out.
  • Auto learn: If you have a chain driven motor, I suggest disconnecting the chain. Your motor will spin backwards and could damage it. Go to the GRAPH tab and click "Auto Learn", then turn the throttle to 100% and hold it down. The motor will go forward and backward, then it will beep and let you know it is complete. Let go of the throttle, go back to the parameters page and hit SAVE.
  • Sometimes when you hit SAVE, the follow function gets turned back on. Also, some parameters (or all?) seem to save automatically. I'm not sure what happens if you never click save. Maybe when you turn off the controller, any changes will be lost?
  • Field/flux weakening: I just barely found out something monumental yesterday that was causing me so much grief. If you want to use this feature, you need to make sure a couple of things are enabled. First is the "WEAK CHARACTER" setting. Apparently everyone agrees to set it to "FAST". I did that but it didn't help at all. The one setting I finally fiddle with was "WEAK RESPONSE". I set that to 0 and it took my motor RPM's from 7500 to over 10,000. It revved so high I actually got a hall sensor error. Before I did changed that setting, it was set to NONE. Apparently "0" and "NONE" aren't the same thing. :rolleyes:
  • Throttle: You have ECO, LINE (LINEAR :rolleyes:), and SPORT. Sport is really fun but it can be violent. You can fine tune the response with the "THROTTLE ACC STEP" setting. I recommend starting at 50 or 75 in Linear or Sport and then take it from there. One thing people seem to agree on is that full throttle comes on way too soon. If anyone has a fix for that, I'd love to hear it. Also, I notice at top speeds, the throttle jerks a lot because it is so sensitive. It makes holding a steady speed very difficult and I find myself bucking like I'm on a horse. Again, any advice on that would be helpful.
  • Regen: If you want to use regen with a button, hook up the two LOW BRAKE wires to your switch, then change the FOLLOW setting to "EABS WHEN BREAK VALID". If you want to regen when you release the throttle, then pick "EABS WHEN RELEASE THROTTLE". Note this last setting won't work if you have a vehicle with a freewheel. You'll need to weld the freewheel solid. Then go to the ENERGY REGERNATE group settings to choose how much % effect to apply at a given RPM. My setting for "FREE THROTTLE" is "0". I'm not sure what that does but my regen does work.
  • Regen settings: The "MAX BACK CURRENT" setting should be 25-50% higher than the "STOP BACK CURRENT". I don't know much about this so if anyone care's to elaborate on how to set this properly, I'm all ears.
  • If your top speed is still limited, go to the "RATIOS IN SPEED" group and set the "LIMIT SPEED" to something higher.
  • I'd love to know more details about the "PID PARAMETERS" group. So far, I've left mine as is but I feel like the acceleration jerking is caused by some wrong settings here. I'll have to dive into it.
  • If your battery % is showing up weird on the GRAPH page, go to the "0 BATT COEFF" and "FULL BATT COEFF" settings. Adjust the FULL settings to a number that gets you to 100% when fully charged. When you are low on juice, adjust the 0 BATT COEFF settings to match.
That's all for now. Geez.
 
I'm going a bit crazy with comm issues. For some reason, the android app says app is expired, wtf? So I went to sia site and dl'd the latest one from there but still it give the same message. Any suggestions? It was working a month ago.
 

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Updated: They sent me a new version and all is good now. Pretty responsive company. Color me impressed. Only took about 3 hours for a reply. Yay!

BTW, thanks Juan for all that insight. I've just got my new homebuilt rig up and running and tuning is in order fer sure. So your advice is well received and timely. Generally, I'm happy with the performance so far. This is a weird, fat tire bike, about 70% trials 30% trails. I copied the rear suspension linkage off a Gasgas trials bike and it has Marzocchi Monster T 200mm fork. I made the frame and pulleys for a two stage belt drive polychain GT 18:1 OA reduction. Bike weighs 105 pounds with a 1P21S -28 amphour battery from Farasis pouch cells. Its the 5000 watt new QS motor.

Pretty ugly still but I'll post pics in a bit..work in progress.I'm working on body parts to fill in the area in front of the seat and fenders. This motor and controller combo rips. Great throttle control with eco mode from stopped up to maybe 30%. Then it freakin' launches like a mad dog. Yee haw!


20230403_210749 (Medium).jpg
 
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dominik h said:
Perhaps I asked already, but with the search function I could not find the answer.

Does the Fardriver support NTC 200k as temperature sensor.
In the next days I want to put a new tyre on my QS60V5000W hub motor and I want to add a temperature sensor to the windings.

My Fardriver App talks chinese to my at the moment.
Click to expand...

Here's a screenshot of the temperature sensor options that I have on my iOS version

IMG_4883.jpg
 
I got a 72300 fardriver all wired up, but it doesnt make a beep or anything like it does on a video I checked for wiring it up.
According to video it should +- from battery plus an extra + cable to orange ignition and it should turn on.
Mine doesnt. so I'm wondering if the battery has to be fully charged the first time turning the controller on or am I missing something?

Thanks
 
Dixonk said:
I got a 72300 fardriver all wired up, but it doesnt make a beep or anything like it does on a video I checked for wiring it up.
According to video it should +- from battery plus an extra + cable to orange ignition and it should turn on.
Mine doesnt. so I'm wondering if the battery has to be fully charged the first time turning the controller on or am I missing something?

Thanks
Click to expand...
I think it needs to have a voltage above the minimum setpoint to initialize. I recall something similar when I first tried to turn mine on. I'd check that its a least, say, 70 volts. And simply jumper from B+ to the orange keyswitch input wire.
 
Terrible Juan said:
Wow. I just got an ND72530 and it has explosive power but what a pain it has been to setup. I came from a Kelly KVD controller and it has no flux/field weakening so the top speed is capped early.

I use the Bluetooth connection through the Android app.

  • Here are some tips I have learned that may help some people getting started:
  • The orange wire by itself needs to have battery voltage (or at least 12v?) to trigger the unit on.
  • The 3 speed switch wiring needs to be addressed now or it will cause confusion. If you aren't going to use a 3 speed switch, there is a single wire jumper that should be wrapped around the 3 wire connector. Click that in and it will engage high speed only. If you don't connect the jumper, it will be set to the middle speed setting. If for some reason you don't have the jumper, not a problem. Just go to the parameters later and set "mid speed line ratio / mid speed phase ratio / mid speed RPM" all to 100% and max settings.
  • Do not go to your phone's bluetooth settings and try to pair your controller to your phone. Just open the app and go to to the "comm" tab. Hit "scan" at the top, click the YUAN item, and then click "connect" on the top right. It will say "connected" if successful".
  • Your controller will probably beep 2 times, then one long beep, and then keep repeating. This means you need to do the auto learn. Before you do this, I highly recommend going to the Parameters page and clicking on the EXPERT button to access more functions. Scroll to the FUNCTIONS group and disable the FOLLOW item. Set your battery voltage and line/phase current, max RPM correctly, then begin auto learn. If you don't know the max RPM or rated RPM, just put 12,000 or something for both and the auto learn should sort it out.
  • Auto learn: If you have a chain driven motor, I suggest disconnecting the chain. Your motor will spin backwards and could damage it. Go to the GRAPH tab and click "Auto Learn", then turn the throttle to 100% and hold it down. The motor will go forward and backward, then it will beep and let you know it is complete. Let go of the throttle, go back to the parameters page and hit SAVE.
  • Sometimes when you hit SAVE, the follow function gets turned back on. Also, some parameters (or all?) seem to save automatically. I'm not sure what happens if you never click save. Maybe when you turn off the controller, any changes will be lost?
  • Field/flux weakening: I just barely found out something monumental yesterday that was causing me so much grief. If you want to use this feature, you need to make sure a couple of things are enabled. First is the "WEAK CHARACTER" setting. Apparently everyone agrees to set it to "FAST". I did that but it didn't help at all. The one setting I finally fiddle with was "WEAK RESPONSE". I set that to 0 and it took my motor RPM's from 7500 to over 10,000. It revved so high I actually got a hall sensor error. Before I did changed that setting, it was set to NONE. Apparently "0" and "NONE" aren't the same thing. :rolleyes:
  • Throttle: You have ECO, LINE (LINEAR :rolleyes:), and SPORT. Sport is really fun but it can be violent. You can fine tune the response with the "THROTTLE ACC STEP" setting. I recommend starting at 50 or 75 in Linear or Sport and then take it from there. One thing people seem to agree on is that full throttle comes on way too soon. If anyone has a fix for that, I'd love to hear it. Also, I notice at top speeds, the throttle jerks a lot because it is so sensitive. It makes holding a steady speed very difficult and I find myself bucking like I'm on a horse. Again, any advice on that would be helpful.
  • Regen: If you want to use regen with a button, hook up the two LOW BRAKE wires to your switch, then change the FOLLOW setting to "EABS WHEN BREAK VALID". If you want to regen when you release the throttle, then pick "EABS WHEN RELEASE THROTTLE". Note this last setting won't work if you have a vehicle with a freewheel. You'll need to weld the freewheel solid. Then go to the ENERGY REGERNATE group settings to choose how much % effect to apply at a given RPM. My setting for "FREE THROTTLE" is "0". I'm not sure what that does but my regen does work.
  • Regen settings: The "MAX BACK CURRENT" setting should be 25-50% higher than the "STOP BACK CURRENT". I don't know much about this so if anyone care's to elaborate on how to set this properly, I'm all ears.
  • If your top speed is still limited, go to the "RATIOS IN SPEED" group and set the "LIMIT SPEED" to something higher.
  • I'd love to know more details about the "PID PARAMETERS" group. So far, I've left mine as is but I feel like the acceleration jerking is caused by some wrong settings here. I'll have to dive into it.
  • If your battery % is showing up weird on the GRAPH page, go to the "0 BATT COEFF" and "FULL BATT COEFF" settings. Adjust the FULL settings to a number that gets you to 100% when fully charged. When you are low on juice, adjust the 0 BATT COEFF settings to match.
That's all for now. Geez.
Click to expand...
thank you ,! this is very helpfull 👍
 
Terrible Juan said:
Wow. I just got an ND72530 and it has explosive power but what a pain it has been to setup. I came from a Kelly KVD controller and it has no flux/field weakening so the top speed is capped early.

I use the Bluetooth connection through the Android app.

  • Here are some tips I have learned that may help some people getting started:
  • The orange wire by itself needs to have battery voltage (or at least 12v?) to trigger the unit on.
  • The 3 speed switch wiring needs to be addressed now or it will cause confusion. If you aren't going to use a 3 speed switch, there is a single wire jumper that should be wrapped around the 3 wire connector. Click that in and it will engage high speed only. If you don't connect the jumper, it will be set to the middle speed setting. If for some reason you don't have the jumper, not a problem. Just go to the parameters later and set "mid speed line ratio / mid speed phase ratio / mid speed RPM" all to 100% and max settings.
  • Do not go to your phone's bluetooth settings and try to pair your controller to your phone. Just open the app and go to to the "comm" tab. Hit "scan" at the top, click the YUAN item, and then click "connect" on the top right. It will say "connected" if successful".
  • Your controller will probably beep 2 times, then one long beep, and then keep repeating. This means you need to do the auto learn. Before you do this, I highly recommend going to the Parameters page and clicking on the EXPERT button to access more functions. Scroll to the FUNCTIONS group and disable the FOLLOW item. Set your battery voltage and line/phase current, max RPM correctly, then begin auto learn. If you don't know the max RPM or rated RPM, just put 12,000 or something for both and the auto learn should sort it out.
  • Auto learn: If you have a chain driven motor, I suggest disconnecting the chain. Your motor will spin backwards and could damage it. Go to the GRAPH tab and click "Auto Learn", then turn the throttle to 100% and hold it down. The motor will go forward and backward, then it will beep and let you know it is complete. Let go of the throttle, go back to the parameters page and hit SAVE.
  • Sometimes when you hit SAVE, the follow function gets turned back on. Also, some parameters (or all?) seem to save automatically. I'm not sure what happens if you never click save. Maybe when you turn off the controller, any changes will be lost?
  • Field/flux weakening: I just barely found out something monumental yesterday that was causing me so much grief. If you want to use this feature, you need to make sure a couple of things are enabled. First is the "WEAK CHARACTER" setting. Apparently everyone agrees to set it to "FAST". I did that but it didn't help at all. The one setting I finally fiddle with was "WEAK RESPONSE". I set that to 0 and it took my motor RPM's from 7500 to over 10,000. It revved so high I actually got a hall sensor error. Before I did changed that setting, it was set to NONE. Apparently "0" and "NONE" aren't the same thing. :rolleyes:
  • Throttle: You have ECO, LINE (LINEAR :rolleyes:), and SPORT. Sport is really fun but it can be violent. You can fine tune the response with the "THROTTLE ACC STEP" setting. I recommend starting at 50 or 75 in Linear or Sport and then take it from there. One thing people seem to agree on is that full throttle comes on way too soon. If anyone has a fix for that, I'd love to hear it. Also, I notice at top speeds, the throttle jerks a lot because it is so sensitive. It makes holding a steady speed very difficult and I find myself bucking like I'm on a horse. Again, any advice on that would be helpful.
  • Regen: If you want to use regen with a button, hook up the two LOW BRAKE wires to your switch, then change the FOLLOW setting to "EABS WHEN BREAK VALID". If you want to regen when you release the throttle, then pick "EABS WHEN RELEASE THROTTLE". Note this last setting won't work if you have a vehicle with a freewheel. You'll need to weld the freewheel solid. Then go to the ENERGY REGERNATE group settings to choose how much % effect to apply at a given RPM. My setting for "FREE THROTTLE" is "0". I'm not sure what that does but my regen does work.
  • Regen settings: The "MAX BACK CURRENT" setting should be 25-50% higher than the "STOP BACK CURRENT". I don't know much about this so if anyone care's to elaborate on how to set this properly, I'm all ears.
  • If your top speed is still limited, go to the "RATIOS IN SPEED" group and set the "LIMIT SPEED" to something higher.
  • I'd love to know more details about the "PID PARAMETERS" group. So far, I've left mine as is but I feel like the acceleration jerking is caused by some wrong settings here. I'll have to dive into it.
  • If your battery % is showing up weird on the GRAPH page, go to the "0 BATT COEFF" and "FULL BATT COEFF" settings. Adjust the FULL settings to a number that gets you to 100% when fully charged. When you are low on juice, adjust the 0 BATT COEFF settings to match.
That's all for now. Geez.
Click to expand...
Very useful! I’ll be reading back through this once I get my controller 👍
 
nostroke said:
I think it needs to have a voltage above the minimum setpoint to initialize. I recall something similar when I first tried to turn mine on. I'd check that its a least, say, 70 volts. And simply jumper from B+ to the orange keyswitch input wire.
Click to expand...
Thank you, this did it. how wierd! thanks for the help
 
Heads up for anyone with a new fardriver ND72680 controller who can't get their speedo display working on the one-line wire. I got some help off the Facebook electric motorcycle build page. As told, I connected the display wire to the brown (boost) wire from the controller & voila, my display works! Waiting for the weather to cooperate so I can finish trying to calibrate the speed & odometer readings.
 
Hi guys, do someone knows what this mean and what is for "AN" and "LM" ? was trying to play with the PID to reduce the jerk starting acceleration, but i don't know what this value is for.

thanks to you all
Screenshot_2023-04-19-09-02-37-219-edit_com.Niuding.MotorNet6.jpg
 
Can someone help me figure out why the controller is not trying to accelerate quickly?? The max phase current is set to 1800A(it never crosses 800-900A), the max line curr is set to 600A which during my initial acceleration is at maybe 150A. My acceleration step is set to 224.
From what I've noticed the controller doesn't push current till about 30kmph, and then it gets nice and responsive.
Ive tried almost all the PID options but no luck.

P.S I had put my bike on a dyno and got 85Nm(phasecurr at 800A) at about 300RPM≈11kmph, whereas my motor is rated for 140Nm.
 
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