Need controller

[deronmoped]

I have a Giant LaFree 24V 400W, 1000W peak bike. I'm converting it to a 36V bike and need a controller for it. What should be the ratings on my new controller? Will a 36V 600W, 800W or a 1000W controller work? I'm guessing that my motor at the higher voltage, will want to have a higher continuous wattage rating, more then the 24 volts 400W rating. The peak rating of a 1000 watts should be higher too, but I'm guessing the controllers have a higher peak rating then what they are rated at.

Also who sells a good quality controller?

Deron.

 

[deardancer3]

Its a brushed motor, capable of drawing 40amps peak at stall --24v. So get a controler capable of delivering double that for max reliabilty.

be sure to keep that chain new and lubed, the motor chain gears can be imposible to find.

4QD makes very good brushed controllers, but pricey. The Uni-8-36 would be good here.

d

 

[Link]

Its a brushed motor, capable of drawing 40amps peak at stall --24v. So get a controler capable of delivering double that for max reliabilty.

be sure to keep that chain new and lubed, the motor chain gears can be imposible to find.

4QD makes very good brushed controllers, but pricey. The Uni-8-36 would be good here.

d

Uh...I'm guessing the motor would fry in short order on 80A...

I'd try a 36V 30-40A controller.

 

[deronmoped]

Are there controllers that allow you to set the maximum amperage output? Or are there other ways of keeping from frying the motor?

Thanks, Deron.

 

[Link]

Any proper ebike controller is rated by its current limit. So a 30A controller won't allow the motor to draw more than 30A.

The R/C ESCs are the ones that you'd have to be careful with.

 

[deronmoped]

Yeah, that Uni-8-36 would be like $125.00 with shipping.

Would not the BMS on the battery limit current too? It looks like my BMS is doing just that. If I hook it directly up to my bike motor, even with the back wheel in the air it shuts output down. I tried my battery pack on some lesser loads and it works fine.

Deron.

 

[Link]

Would not the BMS on the battery limit current too? It looks like my BMS is doing just that. If I hook it directly up to my bike motor, even with the back wheel in the air it shuts output down. I tried my battery pack on some lesser loads and it works fine.

It does, but not in the same way as a controller. The BMS on the battery cuts out if too many amps are drawn. The controller monitors the current (usually on the battery side) and adjusts the PWM duty cycle to ensure that the amperage never exceeds the controller's rated limit.

 

[dogman dan]

A Wilderness Energy BD36 controller would work, 35 amp. Not sure which vendor has it cheapest. Also the clyte DC controller, I belive it's 30 amp.

 

[deronmoped]

So a 36V 35A controller is equivalent to a 36V 1260W controller?

Found the BD36 for $85.00, is that a good price? What about the cheaper controllers on e-bay?

Deron.

 

[deronmoped]

So I ordered a controller from Electric Scooter Parts.

CT-660B9 36V 1000W Electric Scooter Speed Controller
36 Volt 1000 Watt. Works with 500-1000 Watt motors. Under Voltage protect 20.5V. Current limiting feature prevents controller damage due to over-current conditions. Under voltage protection feature prevents over-discharge and extends battery life. Uses variable speed hall-effect throttle.

Just over $60 with taxes and shipping.

Will let you guys know how it performs.

Deron.