pendragon8000
100 kW
choice photos FT.
Kepler, you dont do yourself justice with your average snaps.
Kepler, you dont do yourself justice with your average snaps.
New build. Full carbon 29er weight weenie Super Commuter.
- Thread starter Kepler
- Start date
Kepler
10 MW
I thought my snaps were ok until F-T showed me up :lol:
I like that same angle with a different focus. 8) Unfortunately all my photos are just with an iphone.
I like that same angle with a different focus. 8) Unfortunately all my photos are just with an iphone.
Kepler
10 MW
Marc S. said:
Thanks for that.
I have used tried the oil thing in my BPM and made a hell of a mess. Not too keen in re visiting that. I may have got a bit carried away with the ATF though and put closer to 150ml in.
If the clutch locks up on the SWXH again, I might take up your suggestion ATF and keep the level to 50ml as you have suggested. Will see how it goes
Marc S.
100 W
Kepler said:
150ml in a BPM? Yiiks! I know how that mess looks...
80ml is enough for the BPM. 100ml is pushing it.At first I filled 50ml in the SWXH and aside from the occational drop out of the (unnessesary) 'breather tube' it stayed clean.
After the oil change I filled in 80ml and it produced quite a mess for the next week till the exessive oil got pushed out through the bearings and motor cable.
Since then my oil cooled SWXH is clean, quiet and ran an other 1250km without problems.
If I would use a rear disk brake I might start with 40ml to make sure there is no oil spill.
Samd
10 MW
Thinking of doing this to my BPM - any side seals necessary, or just keep it to below 80ml so it stays below the axle wire exit?
Sorry for the threadjack Kep.
Sorry for the threadjack Kep.
Marc S.
100 W
Samd said:
Did you read this thread? http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=37972
Check if the disk brake screw holes in your BPM go through. They don't in my BPM II. Thats the easiest option to fill in ATF.
I had to drill two of them through (behind is the backside of the sprang clutch, no worry) make sure no drilling chips fall in.
I didn't seal anything. The motor wire will act as a breather. Some oil drops will exit the motor wire. A little piece of cloth knottet right before the connector will take the oil. Make sure the motor wire cutting in the axle faces down, then the hole in the axle inside will face down as well.
Since the ATF oil will dissolve the grease inside the motor. Better make an oil change after 100km/60mil.
I think thats it.
Samd
10 MW
Yeah I did read the thread - wasn't explicit as to side cover sealing as far as I could see (baby woke four times last night so it could be me).
Thanks for your answer - it was very clear.
Sorry for the detour- here's your thread back Kepler!
Thanks for your answer - it was very clear.
Sorry for the detour- here's your thread back Kepler!
Holocene
100 W
Hi el walto,el_walto said:
HobbyKing lists the battery weight and shipping weight separately. The latter is used to calculate shipping cost for EMS.
Kepler
10 MW
Time for a quick 1000km update.
The carbon frame is holding up well as an ebike with the drop outs still in perfect condition despite regularly seeing 750W. Looks like the torque arm is doing its job.
Bike has had a few wet weather trips now and has had no issues handling a bit of rain even with the controller mounted under the bottom bracket.
I have settled on 18S but vary the pack postion from a handlebar mount to a seat mount depending on what sort of range I need. I can stuff 500Whr in the front bag for those extended trips but mostly stick with around 200Whr in the small rear bag (as pictured). This gives me around 15km to 20km range which is perfect for my commute to work.
The combination of torque sensor and CA3 is just a delight to use with the human to electric assist interaction blending seamlessly together. I like it so much that the bike is now purely pedal assist with the level of assist adjustable via a small rotary knob.
Anyway here are a few hi res photos of the bike in its current configuration.
I am really pleased with this formula and am considering building a similar bike for sale. Main difference would be an Aluminium frame rather then carbon although would be happy to build it in carbon if requested. This is the donor bike I am considering. http://www.cellbikes.com.au/2011-CELL-X-2-City-Bike?sc=21&category=12627
Price wise, I think I could make it worth my while for around $3,000.00. Any feedback would be appriciated.
The carbon frame is holding up well as an ebike with the drop outs still in perfect condition despite regularly seeing 750W. Looks like the torque arm is doing its job.
Bike has had a few wet weather trips now and has had no issues handling a bit of rain even with the controller mounted under the bottom bracket.
I have settled on 18S but vary the pack postion from a handlebar mount to a seat mount depending on what sort of range I need. I can stuff 500Whr in the front bag for those extended trips but mostly stick with around 200Whr in the small rear bag (as pictured). This gives me around 15km to 20km range which is perfect for my commute to work.
The combination of torque sensor and CA3 is just a delight to use with the human to electric assist interaction blending seamlessly together. I like it so much that the bike is now purely pedal assist with the level of assist adjustable via a small rotary knob.
Anyway here are a few hi res photos of the bike in its current configuration.
I am really pleased with this formula and am considering building a similar bike for sale. Main difference would be an Aluminium frame rather then carbon although would be happy to build it in carbon if requested. This is the donor bike I am considering. http://www.cellbikes.com.au/2011-CELL-X-2-City-Bike?sc=21&category=12627
Price wise, I think I could make it worth my while for around $3,000.00. Any feedback would be appriciated.
pendragon8000
100 kW
Excellent! I hope you have success with this formula, I would assume its a winner. Good luck with it. Sales thread?
Hyena
10 GW
Cell bikes are pretty tough and that one looks like a good choice with none of the bicycle components needing upgrading for most riders. My blue cell hardtail was my daily commuter and general thrash around bike for 3 years until recently. It copped a pounding offroad and never skipped a beat even with the frame seeing 5kw peaks on a daily basis. (on and offroad as in most of my earlier vids)
anpate
10 mW
Awesome build Kepler! What rpm/code is that motor you're using?
Kepler
10 MW
I am using the 201RPM @36V rated motor which I think is the slowest wind they have. They dont seem to list a code in SWXH range of motors from what I have seen.
Running on 18S and around 72V so its now around 402RPM with my setup.
402 x 2180mm wheel circ = 876,360mm/Min or 0.88km/Min
= 52.8kph
In real life 45kph can be maintained but I can get it up to 50kph with some hard assist.
I am a big fan of the high torque low rpm motors as they tend to have thicker windings and as such can typically take a bit more abuse then the high speed windings.
Running on 18S and around 72V so its now around 402RPM with my setup.
402 x 2180mm wheel circ = 876,360mm/Min or 0.88km/Min
= 52.8kph
In real life 45kph can be maintained but I can get it up to 50kph with some hard assist.
I am a big fan of the high torque low rpm motors as they tend to have thicker windings and as such can typically take a bit more abuse then the high speed windings.
JennyB
1 kW
Kepler said:I am really pleased with this formula and am considering building a similar bike for sale. Main difference would be an Aluminium frame rather then carbon although would be happy to build it in carbon if requested. This is the donor bike I am considering. http://www.cellbikes.com.au/2011-CELL-X-2-City-Bike?sc=21&category=12627
Price wise, I think I could make it worth my while for around $3,000.00. Any feedback would be appriciated.
With this setup I think a singlespeed cyclocross bike would be real fun!
tonyontopofabighill
1 kW
G'day Kepler,
I have been reading your build over the last couple of days and I have to say mate that you have done a magnificent job. Your attention to detail is unbelievable. I first came across you when I was researching both the "Stealth" and the "BH Neo Jumper bikes" and that led me onto this build.
There is only one word for it Kepler.......... EXCELLENCE!
By the way did you end up buying a Jumper? or were you too put off by the 25klm cutoff.
Cheers and salutations,
Tony.
I have been reading your build over the last couple of days and I have to say mate that you have done a magnificent job. Your attention to detail is unbelievable. I first came across you when I was researching both the "Stealth" and the "BH Neo Jumper bikes" and that led me onto this build.
There is only one word for it Kepler.......... EXCELLENCE!
By the way did you end up buying a Jumper? or were you too put off by the 25klm cutoff.
Cheers and salutations,
Tony.
Kepler
10 MW
Thanks Tony, much appreciated.
No I didn't buy the Neo Jumper but was seriously considering it. The 25kph limit was a real deal breaker for me. A real shame as it is in my opinion one of the best ebikes currently on the market.
On my bike, cruise is typically 30kph to 35kph with the bike being taken up to 45kph to 50kph on flat road on a regular basis. Having a 25kph limit would have driven me crazy.
No I didn't buy the Neo Jumper but was seriously considering it. The 25kph limit was a real deal breaker for me. A real shame as it is in my opinion one of the best ebikes currently on the market.
On my bike, cruise is typically 30kph to 35kph with the bike being taken up to 45kph to 50kph on flat road on a regular basis. Having a 25kph limit would have driven me crazy.
Hi Kepler,
I admire your workmanship.
I am looking at doing a similar build on my aluminum hybrid frame,
but may go to a road bike soon.
Where did you buy your 201 rpm Bafang motor ?
I'm in Los Angeles, so I was wondering if you have considered selling a kit without
the bike including the motor, controller, and all other electric parts with full instructions, of course.
You could even exclude the wheel, batteries, and Cycle Analyst for compact shipping and better pricing.
Personally, I have a Cycle Analyst already, but the former model.
Can it do the detailed split info between the motor and pedal inputs, or is that reserved to the model 3 ?
If I get to it first, what generic controller do you recommend ? I could go with a Lyen, as he's close.
I would like to use the RC LiPo batteries, but in the interest of safety, what high quality
charger, BMS, or other monitoring systems do you recommend ?
Safety is senior to money on these.
I'm good with mechanics, but a little shy in the electrics department.
Where can I get a detailed wiring diagram for everything,
including the controller, BMS, charger, 3-position switch, and C.A. ?
Thank you for the help.
I admire your workmanship.
I am looking at doing a similar build on my aluminum hybrid frame,
but may go to a road bike soon.
Where did you buy your 201 rpm Bafang motor ?
I'm in Los Angeles, so I was wondering if you have considered selling a kit without
the bike including the motor, controller, and all other electric parts with full instructions, of course.
You could even exclude the wheel, batteries, and Cycle Analyst for compact shipping and better pricing.
Personally, I have a Cycle Analyst already, but the former model.
Can it do the detailed split info between the motor and pedal inputs, or is that reserved to the model 3 ?
If I get to it first, what generic controller do you recommend ? I could go with a Lyen, as he's close.
I would like to use the RC LiPo batteries, but in the interest of safety, what high quality
charger, BMS, or other monitoring systems do you recommend ?
Safety is senior to money on these.
I'm good with mechanics, but a little shy in the electrics department.
Where can I get a detailed wiring diagram for everything,
including the controller, BMS, charger, 3-position switch, and C.A. ?
Thank you for the help.
zelectric
100 mW
Hi KeplerKepler said:Thought it was about time I fixed the seized free wheel in my geared hub today. Ended up being quite a job. Not so much replacing the planet gear assembly, but just getting the motor apart.
This geared hub has a screw on cover that has 3 recessed holes used for disassembly using a specialised tool. I tried getting it apart with a C spanner and strap wrench to hold the motor, but not a chance. Decided best bet was to get serious and make a proper tool for the job. Here is what i came up with.
The Aluminium block attaches to the disc brake mount so you can hold the motor securely.
A big shifting spanner or pipe is then used for plenty of leverage
Is there any chance you would make another side cover removal tool and sell it? I have a few of these small geared motors with the thread on side covers and the same 3 prong tool holes. I figured it can hurt to ask right??
Thank you,
Todd
Kepler
10 MW
Hi Todd,
That tool took me half a day to make and another half a day running around getting the materials. The tool would cost you twice the price of a new motor for me to make it for you unfortunately
That tool took me half a day to make and another half a day running around getting the materials. The tool would cost you twice the price of a new motor for me to make it for you unfortunately
Kepler
10 MW
CORKY said:Hi Kepler,
I admire your workmanship.
I am looking at doing a similar build on my aluminum hybrid frame,
but may go to a road bike soon.
Where did you buy your 201 rpm Bafang motor ?
I'm in Los Angeles, so I was wondering if you have considered selling a kit without
the bike including the motor, controller, and all other electric parts with full instructions, of course.
You could even exclude the wheel, batteries, and Cycle Analyst for compact shipping and better pricing.
Personally, I have a Cycle Analyst already, but the former model.
Can it do the detailed split info between the motor and pedal inputs, or is that reserved to the model 3 ?
If I get to it first, what generic controller do you recommend ? I could go with a Lyen, as he's close.
I would like to use the RC LiPo batteries, but in the interest of safety, what high quality
charger, BMS, or other monitoring systems do you recommend ?
Safety is senior to money on these.
I'm good with mechanics, but a little shy in the electrics department.
Where can I get a detailed wiring diagram for everything,
including the controller, BMS, charger, 3-position switch, and C.A. ?
Thank you for the help.
Sorry Corky, i missed your post.
I go my motor from a local Melbourne guy. Ben Moore. He is on the forum and can be contracted via PM
In relation to kit, sorry not at this stage. I just have too many other commitments at the moment.
a Lyen 6fet with 4110 fets would be fine. alternately Cellman does them also.
In relation to batteries, see what Justin has for sale at the moment on his web site. I know he is committed to high quality safe battery systems.
For wiring, there is lots of detail on the Cycle Analyst V3 thread. I would start there.
Good luck with the build.
zelectric
100 mW
I hear that..thanks Kepler.Kepler said:Hi Todd,
The tool would cost you twice the price of a new moto
I really like this stealthy build and the use of the small geared motors. I like an ebike to feel like a bike and these small motors do just that. Thanks for sharing.
spinningmagnets
100 TW
The disc brake side might be handled by this adapter from SJS-Cycles. I have one and it seems well made and fairly strong.
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/dt-swiss-arai-to-disc-brake-adapter-for-140-mm-oln-98-td-prod29105/
-dg
1 kW
Bafang bldc hub engines opening tools [sic] appear to be available from greenbikekit.com for most of the thread on cover motors. They are not cheap, but still less than 1/3 the price of a motor. They also have gears, clutches, and sidecovers as spare parts. Which is pretty cool really, I don't know any of the other usual suspect vendors offering repair parts.Kepler said:
Kepler
10 MW
Should do the trick as long as the cover isn't ridiculously tight like mine was. I will be interested to hear how it stands up. The disc brake adapter that Spinner suggested looks like good cheap solution to hold the motor too. Not needed if the motor is laced up in a rim as you just can hold the tool in a vice and have plenty of leverage by turning the rim. If the motor isn't laced up though, you definitely need the disc brake adapter. You just cant hold the motor on its spoke flange tight enough even in a vice with soft jaws.
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