New controller and display

gidi1212

10 mW
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Dec 11, 2024
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Gidi1212
Hi everyone,

I’ve decided to replace the controller and display on my e-bike, as my current setup isn’t working anymore. I would love to hear your recommendations for a compatible controller and display system that supports my bike’s hubmotor and battery and offers a discreet way to switch speed limits for European regulations.

My E-Bike Specifications:​

- Battery: 48V 18.2AH with an XT60 connector.
- Motor: 750W hub motor (marked 250W due to European regulations).
- Existing wiring harness: I would prefer to reuse my current wiring harness if possible.

What I’m Looking For:​

  1. A reliable controller that works with a 48V, 750W motor and is compatible with an XT60 battery connection.
  2. A display that pairs well with the controller and offers a clean, easy-to-use interface.
  3. A quick and discreet speed limit toggle (e.g., 25 km/h / 15 mph for legal compliance, and higher speeds when toggled). This feature should not be obviously visible to avoid issues with European regulations.
  4. If possible, a plug-and-play setup that works with my current wiring harness (details and pictures of my connectors are attached).

Attachments:​

I’ve included pictures of all my current connectors for reference to make compatibility easier to determine.
I've added these pictures:
the battery connector
hubmotor type
motor connector: the 3 pin connector or 3pin to the yellow blue green white motor cable extension cable
current (broken controller)
both ends of the wiring harness
current battery specs

Thanks in advance for your suggestions! I’m looking forward to hearing about systems that have worked well for you. :)
 

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I’ve decided to replace the controller and display on my e-bike, as my current setup isn’t working anymore.
By "not working anymore", what do you mean? What happened just before it stopped working?

I ask because this may help pick a system that won't fail the same way, and it will eliminate the possiblity that parts you are keeping (battery, etc) are not part of the cause, or are not damaged by the fault that caused the other problem(s).

- Existing wiring harness: I would prefer to reuse my current wiring harness if possible.
<snip>If possible, a plug-and-play setup that works with my current wiring harness (details and pictures of my connectors are attached).

What are the specific connectors you have now, for each item that you are replacing, and the specific pinouts of each of them? Those will be needed to find something that is directly plug-and-play compatible with the wiring harness you have.

The pictures show connectors, but don't specify which is for what, or what the wiring is for each one.

There are "common" wirings for some of those types of connectors, but there are no universal standards used for these things. If you just plug things in without knowing what the wiring is, you could damage / destroy the parts you are connecting (both old and new) if the wiring is wrong (especially ones that have both high and low voltages in them).



A reliable controller that works with a 48V, 750W motor
<snip> A display that pairs well with the controller and offers a clean, easy-to-use interface.

Is the motor sensored or sensorless?

Do you want sinewave (quiet) or trapezoidal (noisier) type output? Or FOC (quiet and modulates torque, vs the other two that modulate speed, but usually requires tuning for your specific usage and parts)?

Do you want any specific features or options; things you want the controller / display to do for you or show you?

and is compatible with an XT60 battery connection.
There's a fair likelihood that you'll have to put an XT60 on the new controller to match your battery's polarity / wiring--it's not uncommon, but not the most typical connector to see on them (some come without any at all).


  1. A quick and discreet speed limit toggle (e.g., 25 km/h / 15 mph for legal compliance, and higher speeds when toggled). This feature should not be obviously visible to avoid issues with European regulations.
It's unlikely any off the shelf controller will come with that. You may have to design and build it yourself. There have been a number of threads about doing this over the years if you poke around.
 
By "not working anymore", what do you mean? What happened just before it stopped working?

I ask because this may help pick a system that won't fail the same way, and it will eliminate the possiblity that parts you are keeping (battery, etc) are not part of the cause, or are not damaged by the fault that caused the other problem(s).



What are the specific connectors you have now, for each item that you are replacing, and the specific pinouts of each of them? Those will be needed to find something that is directly plug-and-play compatible with the wiring harness you have.

The pictures show connectors, but don't specify which is for what, or what the wiring is for each one.

There are "common" wirings for some of those types of connectors, but there are no universal standards used for these things. If you just plug things in without knowing what the wiring is, you could damage / destroy the parts you are connecting (both old and new) if the wiring is wrong (especially ones that have both high and low voltages in them).





Is the motor sensored or sensorless?

Do you want sinewave (quiet) or trapezoidal (noisier) type output? Or FOC (quiet and modulates torque, vs the other two that modulate speed, but usually requires tuning for your specific usage and parts)?

Do you want any specific features or options; things you want the controller / display to do for you or show you?


There's a fair likelihood that you'll have to put an XT60 on the new controller to match your battery's polarity / wiring--it's not uncommon, but not the most typical connector to see on them (some come without any at all).



It's unlikely any off the shelf controller will come with that. You may have to design and build it yourself. There have been a number of threads about doing this over the years if you poke around.

Thanks for reply! Let me clarify and provide additional information:

  1. Why the system stopped working:
    • You can check my other post on this account for the full details, but the short version is that my system stopped working after a short circuit caused by the front light. Since then, I replaced the controller, wiring harness, and display, but the issue persists, likely due to incompatibility or hidden damage. i"ve returned the replacements and thats why i'm looking for a new system
  2. My connectors follow standard color coding:
    • Green: Display
    • Red: Brakes
    • Orange: Throttle
    • Blue: Front light
    • I’m not sure about the exact pin layout of the 9-pin waterproof connector that goes from the controller to the harness
    • I don’t mind purchasing a new wiring harness if it simplifies compatibility with a new controller/display combo.
  3. Motor type:
    • The motor is sensored
  4. Controller type preference:
    • I prefer a sinewave controller, but I’m open to other options if needed.
  5. Speed limit toggle:
    • My old system had a feature where holding the PAS and mode buttons on the display for a few seconds would reset it to factory settings (including a 25 km/h limit). I’m looking for a similar feature or workaround for compliance with EU regulations.
  6. XT60 connector:
    • I can solder an XT60 connector onto the controller if required, so it’s not a dealbreaker if the controller doesn’t have one pre-installed.
Let me know if a specific system comes to mind that meets these requirements
 
at this moment i only have an Multimeter
I went back and refreshed my memory on what happened in your other thread. You killed the bike with a new headlight. Then it seems you have already tried to replace the existing controller, harness, and display in your 7GO EB2 ebike, but were unsuccessfull.

That new display did not power up. It was suggested that you carefully check the display power pin on the new harness. You reported a spark, but no voltage, and that was that. I guess you returned all the new parts? Now you want to try a different make entirely?

Everything is pretty much standard these days. If you buy a new controller with matched display, PAS sensor, and IT4 or IT5 connector, should be plug and play with the old throttle and brake levers. I wouldn't use the headlight though, because you blew up your old system with it. It must not be standard,











,
 
at this moment i only have an Multimeter
My thought is you’ll need to solve #3 on your own. It will take more than a multimeter, and possible creating a small circuit. You will likely need more tools than a meter. The other requirements would be straightforward without it. Once you figure that out, it shouldn’t be too bad, and folks can help you.

How often have you been stopped and tested?
 
Last edited:
Why the system stopped working:
  • You can check my other post on this account for the full details, but the short version is that my system stopped working after a short circuit caused by the front light. Since then, I replaced the controller, wiring harness, and display, but the issue persists, likely due to incompatibility or hidden damage. i"ve returned the replacements and thats why i'm looking for a new system
Did you connect the (shorted?) front light to the new controller? Could that have damaged the new controller? (which you have ascribed to "]incompatibility or hidden damage")?

Just trying to keep you from repeating a preventable failure-causing action.
 
Did you connect the (shorted?) front light to the new controller? Could that have damaged the new controller? (which you have ascribed to "]incompatibility or hidden damage")?

Just trying to keep you from repeating a preventable failure-causing action.
no I've never used the old headlight after it shorted, so that could not have messed with the new controller
 
I went back and refreshed my memory on what happened in your other thread. You killed the bike with a new headlight. Then it seems you have already tried to replace the existing controller, harness, and display in your 7GO EB2 ebike, but were unsuccessfull.

That new display did not power up. It was suggested that you carefully check the display power pin on the new harness. You reported a spark, but no voltage, and that was that. I guess you returned all the new parts? Now you want to try a different make entirely?

Everything is pretty much standard these days. If you buy a new controller with matched display, PAS sensor, and IT4 or IT5 connector, should be plug and play with the old throttle and brake levers. I wouldn't use the headlight though, because you blew up your old system with it. It must not be standard,











,

You're right about what happened in my previous thread. The headlight caused the issue, and since then, I’ve stopped using it entirely and I've returned the same model display and controller . I’m now looking for a completely new system, including a new controller and display combination, to replace the old setup.

Do you have any recommendations for a controller and display combo that would work well with my 48V system and sensored 750W motor?

Thanks in advance for your help!
 
Very odd combo for your controller wires. First, the motor connector is a high power connector I've never seen before, but it does terminate in a old fashioned 3 bullets and square Hall plug at the controller, However, I've never seen controllers that use the old fashioned motor connector with a 4n1 or 5n1 handlebar harness cable. Maybe others have seen these.

You can buy a KT Sinewave controller, either 22A or 25A with waterproof connectors like this one, . Then you need this 9 pin motor cable adapter to connect ro your motoe cable, It might be too long. Also a new KT display,
 
Do you have any recommendations for a controller and display combo that would work well with my 48V system and sensored 750W motor?
There are many that would work well and would be easy swaps if it weren't for the requirement of having to use your harness and lack of tools. Those restrictions place you in an odd category, since you can't just replace it with a kit that newbies can install, and you can't do anything custom, like a DIY builder. Plus the challenge of the hidden speed limiter.

Again, how often have you been stopped and your bike tested?

I would purchase a decent controller with display, hack off the big connector on the existing harness and graft on (solder or crimp), connectors the match the new controller. You can reuse your existing motor extension if your replacement controller uses bullet connector and a separate 6 pin hall sensor plug. Then I'd ride sensibly and forget trying to fool the cops. There are laws here too, but they only enforce them when people ride like buttheads.
 
Very odd combo for your controller wires. First, the motor connector is a high power connector I've never seen before, but it does terminate in a old fashioned 3 bullets and square Hall plug at the controller, However, I've never seen controllers that use the old fashioned motor connector with a 4n1 or 5n1 handlebar harness cable. Maybe others have seen these.

You can buy a KT Sinewave controller, either 22A or 25A with waterproof connectors like this one, . Then you need this 9 pin motor cable adapter to connect ro your motoe cable, It might be too long. Also a new KT display,

Thanks for the reply and recommendation! I’ve found an KT e-bike controller that comes with the correct XT60 battery connector, so I wouldn’t need to solder anything myself or buy extra extensions. It also includes a new wiring harness, I would choose the 25A version. With this 9pin male to 3pin male connector.

Do you think this controller would be a good fit for my motor and battery.

Thanks again for your help!
 
There are many that would work well and would be easy swaps if it weren't for the requirement of having to use your harness and lack of tools. Those restrictions place you in an odd category, since you can't just replace it with a kit that newbies can install, and you can't do anything custom, like a DIY builder. Plus the challenge of the hidden speed limiter.

Again, how often have you been stopped and your bike tested?

I would purchase a decent controller with display, hack off the big connector on the existing harness and graft on (solder or crimp), connectors the match the new controller. You can reuse your existing motor extension if your replacement controller uses bullet connector and a separate 6 pin hall sensor plug. Then I'd ride sensibly and forget trying to fool the cops. There are laws here too, but they only enforce them when people ride like buttheads.
In the Netherlands, where I live, illegal "tuned" e-bikes have become very popular over the past few years, especially among kids without driving licenses. Because of this, the police frequently perform random inspections and use roller benches to check the speed of e-bikes. This makes it quite risky to ride a non-compliant bike openly
 
Do they test both PAS and throttle?
What is your budget? The Cycle Analyst has user configurable modes the you toggle by pressing two of its buttons. The mode can be configured any way you want, so you can limit speed, power, or whatever you like. That would solve your legal issue. But it’s not plug and play build, so not a viable option..
Why not just buy a bike that does what you want?
 
Very odd combo for your controller wires. First, the motor connector is a high power connector I've never seen before, but it does terminate in a old fashioned 3 bullets and square Hall plug at the controller, However, I've never seen controllers that use the old fashioned motor connector with a 4n1 or 5n1 handlebar harness cable. Maybe others have seen these.

You can buy a KT Sinewave controller, either 22A or 25A with waterproof connectors like this one, . Then you need this 9 pin motor cable adapter to connect ro your motoe cable, It might be too long. Also a new KT display,
would an JN controller with Uart #2 also work? With the uart #2 protocol I get a lot more options for displays.
 
In the Netherlands, where I live, illegal "tuned" e-bikes have become very popular over the past few years, especially among kids without driving licenses. Because of this, the police frequently perform random inspections and use roller benches to check the speed of e-bikes. This makes it quite risky to ride a non-compliant bike openly
Hey kaaskop :) What you're saying mostly applies to fatbikes though. Or bikes with really big hub drives even oom agent will recognize as 'not 250w'.

I live near Alkmaar, they have had days where they pulled over all the fatbikes they could muster. But that same day, I was left alone ( tsdz2b mid drive on my Giant Talon ).

I been checked before on a CN speshiul, but that was more because they noticed I had the throttle installed. I got away with a warning, not even written up ( so I can still get checked once and know I will get away with a written warning ). And that was even after admitting I also had the speed unlocked. What helped me was that they complimented me with my driving style, where I was extremely considerate of my fellow cyclists and only passed the speed limit when there was no other traffic in front of me ( if I had checked behind me, I would have still not done that tho lol ).

I do feel what you're saying, and I do have 'street mode on startup' enabled in firmware. If I would get checked I 'simply' have to turn the bike off before they check it ( which they don't like, but what are they going to do about it lol ). Or switch it back on, but this would require more fiddling with buttons while being escorted presumably by a motorcycle cop which will be checking for exactly that.

We will see if it ever happens. I'm not that worried, but I would be if I drove another bike and if I were some years younger as I feel most cops aren't that interested in the combination of me and my bike. I'm pretty sure there are cops who have family / friends which I passed at ~40km/h at times, yet if they see me on my bike they don't even give me a second look.

Do they test both PAS and throttle?
What is your budget? The Cycle Analyst has user configurable modes the you toggle by pressing two of its buttons. The mode can be configured any way you want, so you can limit speed, power, or whatever you like. That would solve your legal issue. But it’s not plug and play build, so not a viable option..
That's actually funny, I was rather under the impression those roller banks would be the same they use on mopeds, just adjusted to lower speeds.

They showed a clip on tv when the police received their new 'ebike roller banks'... it was a basic roller bank, and a cop had to sit on your bike and 'ride it' while manually checking if the bike still offered support over 25km/h as indicated by the roller bank.

Sounds like the individual cops opinion will be worth more as actual data. My Tongshen when set to 25km/h will absolutely not give assistance when over it ( and since the clutch disconnecting motor from spindle is stuck, I get a lot of additional drag so it's like hitting a wall ). But other bikes I have ridden have a much more gradual decline, those motors weren't 100% off from 25km/h right away ( that CN hubmotor bike and for instance Bafang M200 ).

Anyway, the fact they only check speed and not power / kw like they do on mopeds is rather surprising though. Though I guess this requires not having an agent ride the bike, but some mechanical testsetup which knows exactly how much power is delivered by the 'operator' to subtract from that measured at the wheel.
 
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