new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

[DingusMcGee]

Robo,

thanks for mention of the new product.

I got this version [your suggestion]:

799USD 36~72V 4kw Coaxial mid drive motor kit: Elite Cr-mo Frame, 4KW Coaxial Mid motor,60A Bluetooth [ programable ]controller and throttle, frame come with head set for 28.6mm tube (up 28.6mm down 30mm)

It comes with head tube 28.6 to 30 which is tapered. I plan on either 26 x 3 or 27.5 x3 rims/tires as I do not like the response you get with big fat tires. I run 26 x 2.7 on my current edirtbikes. I will try a 26" wheel set from one of my current bikes and at the same time fit the bike with one of my enduro seats for getting the ideal seat to ground height I like [likely 29 will be too high but maybe could do on the front] [ all these big pieces are the makings for a longer wheelbase]. Probably I will try to make it a 2 or 3 speed setup for off road performance mostly. Likely the fork will be 200mm Fox.

I have given up on redesigning the motor plates that tikivic and I were discussing that would be adjustable as the current sleeve chain tensioner [posted above] is incrementally adjustable for the capped half link chain and it works quite well.

 

[robocam]

You're welcome Dingus!

You have to tell Paco that you want the headset for a tapered steerer. It costs $10 extra. But if you're going to put a 200mm Fox on it, I guess you won't need that. I'm not sure what the 30mm refers to because 1-1/2" is 38.1mm.

You probably won't be able to use your rear wheels because the dropout is 170mm wide. You might be able to bend it a little since it is made of steel.

I imagine the wheelbase will be quite long because it has 170mm of travel and accommodates up to 29" wheels. Long travel 29ers have bent seat tubes (I assume for rear wheel clearance). The seat tube on this frame isn't bent. This could mean one of two things. Either it doesn't really have 170mm of travel, or the chainstay length is quite long compared to other frames.

Looking forward to what you think of it!

Robo,

thanks for mention of the new product.

I got this version [your suggestion]:

799USD 36~72V 4kw Coaxial mid drive motor kit: Elite Cr-mo Frame, 4KW Coaxial Mid motor,60A Bluetooth [ programable ]controller and throttle, frame come with head set for 28.6mm tube (up 28.6mm down 30mm)

It comes with head tube 28.6 to 30 which is tapered. I plan on either 26 x 3 or 27.5 x3 rims/tires as I do not like the response you get with big fat tires. I run 26 x 2.7 on my current edirtbikes. I will try a 26" wheel set from one of my current bikes and at the same time fit the bike with one of my enduro seats for getting the ideal seat to ground height I like [likely 29 will be too high but maybe could do on the front] [ all these big pieces are the makings for a longer wheelbase]. Probably I will try to make it a 2 or 3 speed setup for off road performance mostly. Likely the fork will be 200mm Fox.

I have given up on redesigning the motor plates that tikivic and I were discussing that would be adjustable as the current sleeve chain tensioner [posted above] is incrementally adjustable for the capped half link chain and it works quite well.

 

[DingusMcGee]

Hi Robo,

thanks for the clarification.

about 1 hr ago I got this email from Paco:

Dear Dingus,

Thank you.
your goods will send end of July via EMS
Will give you tracking number closer to the time.

Best
Paco

I just send in the change order for a steering tube as you describe. They should have some time to make up one like this in the next 25 days?

The Fox 40 fork for 26" wheels says 1.125" taper which is 28.57 mm. Maybe I will have to check this out a little more?

The Fox 40 fork for 27.5" wheels says 1-1/8 to 1-1/2.

 

[jk1]

Having tried the three designs, I'm building my next ultimate trail bike with another Cyclone 3000, and I'm placing it in the triangle for maximum ground clearance (my BBSHD was constantly catching on roots, logs, and rocks). I chose a square-tapered bottom bracket this time so that I can use the PAS sensor. I don't really see any issue with square-tapered bottom brackets. Not really sure what issues people are having. Maybe heavy people bend them? I'm 180 lbs, and the BBSHD's bottom bracket feels solid to me

I think the C3000w may still be the best solution long term vs the new 4000w in the frame from cyclone due to the property motor and frame to make it all work ! i.e you are locked in to this frame design and spare parts for the motor, i.e what does cyclone charge to replace a blow. motor ? they can hold you to ransom as no one else sells this.

Also the C3000w motor is capable of a lot more AFT run it at 6kw peaks so a lot more powerful than 4000w peak.

Also the other thing i dont like is you are tied to this frame design, like it or not, size etc or quality or not vs bolting on the C3000w to any bike or even a carbon fibre frame is the ultimate.

And probably the other biggest downside to the 4000w bike is as the bike wears out you are stuck with that bike ! what i have found is often all the bike parts wear out quicker than the mid drive... so easiest thing is to ditch the bike and install the mid drive kit on another new bike viola all new again.. whereas on an integrated bike you are stuck with the same bike and need to rebuild everything which is costly....

 

[robocam]

We can only speculate because this new coaxial design isn't even out yet. We already know the Cyclone is capable of much more than its 3000 watt rating as Gman has proven using a stock shunt-modded controller (90A/72V~6500W!). Who knows? Maybe this coaxial motor can take even more.

But you make some good points which can be applied to any bike with an in-frame motor (Bosch, Yamaha, Bafang Max, etc.).

The advantages of an in-frame motor include:
-Increased ground clearance
-Stealth (most people won't realize you have a motor)
-Cosmetic appeal
-No need for motor mounting brackets (one of the Cyclone 3000's biggest issues)
-No secondary reduction chain to maintain or drop

That frame is designed for this purpose, so it has internal routing for wires and a large space for a battery.

I asked Paco about the pivots and his reply was, "we use Powder metallurgy parts for suspension turning point is more stable, easy to replace." I'm not really sure what he's saying there.
I asked him about how it compares to the 3000W model, and he said, "is bigger then 3kw motor, this is 4kw motor, can’t make smaller then 3kw motor, the rotor is 30% longer and also different, the coil is 30% more." I don't really know what to make of that. It looks like he's rating the old motor to 4000W on his website now.

He also said it is quieter. I wonder if this is due to the fact that there is no chain reduction. I also wonder how this will affect the feel of the bike. Because of this missing reduction, it may not feel as powerful as the Cyclone 3000, but the coaxial drive does have a 22T sprocket, and I hardly ever use my climbing gear with the Cyclone 3000, so we'll really have to wait until someone tries it. What I don't understand is why they didn't change the reduction from 6:1 to something else. I guess we'll know when Dingus gets his.

Not having a secondary reduction has benefits too. The frame and chain will be under much less stress.

Personally, I've never ridden a bike long enough to where the frame is unusable. Most bicycle components can be replaced, and this frame is steel, so you can weld to it if you need to. For what they're charging for a frame, motor and controller, I think it's worth a try. There's nothing even remotely like this out there. All the offerings from the big names are 500W or less.

I also don't trust carbon fiber. My friend bought a Yeti SB6c, and the seat tube developed a crack. He doesn't even ride it that hard. Lucky for him, it was covered under warranty, but I bought a used carbon fiber Specialized Enduro 29 frame. Used means no warranty. It was not cheap. I really hope I never have to have it repaired. All my aluminum and steel bikes have been doing just fine, and I'm not afraid to use them. It will take some time for me to trust the Enduro since it's my first carbon fiber bike. I fear that any kind of contact with a rock will cause a crack.

I think the C3000w may still be the best solution long term vs the new 4000w in the frame from cyclone due to the property motor and frame to make it all work ! i.e you are locked in to this frame design and spare parts for the motor, i.e what does cyclone charge to replace a blow. motor ? they can hold you to ransom as no one else sells this.

Also the C3000w motor is capable of a lot more AFT run it at 6kw peaks so a lot more powerful than 4000w peak.

Also the other thing i dont like is you are tied to this frame design, like it or not, size etc or quality or not vs bolting on the C3000w to any bike or even a carbon fibre frame is the ultimate.

And probably the other biggest downside to the 4000w bike is as the bike wears out you are stuck with that bike ! what i have found is often all the bike parts wear out quicker than the mid drive... so easiest thing is to ditch the bike and install the mid drive kit on another new bike viola all new again.. whereas on an integrated bike you are stuck with the same bike and need to rebuild everything which is costly....

 

[DingusMcGee]

Jk1 & Robo,

your thoughts and concerns about this BB Shell motor and integral frame are useful. My biggest concern is a longer wheelbase and whether to go with the ultimate Fox 40 shock at $1700 -- Ouch! I may try to find someone with this fork and try the bike for that kind of front suspension. The Elite Frame kit w/motor will be a project to work out details and likely end up as a stable & cush trail bike -- lacking some nimbleness.

So far I have been able to recoup most of the expense of a build that wasn't ideal for my uses. The elk hunters have reclaimed my MXUS Fat and Lightening Rod Fat. This design seems suited to the likes of what they desire if I want to sell.

The Cyclone 3000 kit is very versatile & adaptable to many bikes but its drivetrain may be the most troublesome feature of it's normal mounting scheme.

Mostly I am thinking of a dedicated low geared trail bike. Top Speed? 20 mph.

Robo, I do use my lowest gear. the gears are `18 - 48 at motor end and 32 - 42 on rear. Lightening Rod & others [gman] have claimed better chain wear and less noise with the 18-48 set up.

The trails around here have hill zones that are at the bucking angle. I can prevent bucking by sliding forward but then risk losing traction. Running lower front tire pressure and soft long travel forks tends to reduce front end bounce that can put rider/bike at bucking angle. When the front tire is in the air I have no steering control so to reduce front wheel air time is a way of keeping better control -- hence the long travel shocks.

 

[Skaiwerd]

On the subject of suspension forks. I've been thinking of these I think they could work with some custom triple tree brackets. They seem a little on the long side but I'd be using a 27.5 inch tire or the 21 inch Moto tire rim combo. I do occasionally spend to just try something out which is risky but not on the level of Dyngus McGee.

 

[robocam]

Whoa, $1700! Why not just get something like this first?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RockShox-Domain-boxxer-Dual-Crown-Fork-200mm-Travel-downhill-mtb-mountain-bike-/152598958546?hash=item23879b51d2:g:BvMAAOSwpONZTwN5

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Rockshox-Domain-Dual-Crown-Downhill-Mountain-Bike-Fork-/263073905814?hash=item3d406d3c96:gJwAAOSwDrNZXYro

Have you ridden a bicycle with a slightly longer wheelbase? I've always wondered if you could tell if the chainstay is just a couple inches longer.

Sounds like you have some fun terrain to conquer. I can't imagine needing 72V going up a hill in my lowest gear (32T chainring going to a 50T in the cassette), and I'm "only" at 52V. I wish I could see what you're trying to do. You should make some videos of your riding, maybe set the camera on a tripod at the bottom of the hill and record your going up.

But since you use your largest cog in the cassette, aren't you concerned about the loss of the motor-to-chain reduction? Maybe the increase from 40 to 60A will make things better. I don't know what to expect, but I think this thing is going to be very powerful! You'll probably hit 20mph in 1st gear!

No steering when the front is in the air? Ride it like a unicycle! =D

Jk1 & Robo,

your thoughts and concerns about this BB Shell motor and integral frame are useful. My biggest concern is a longer wheelbase and whether to go with the ultimate Fox 40 shock at $1700 -- Ouch! I may try to find someone with this fork and try the bike for that kind of front suspension. The Elite Frame kit w/motor will be a project to work out details and likely end up as a stable & cush trail bike -- lacking some nimbleness.

So far I have been able to recoup most of the expense of a build that wasn't ideal for my uses. The elk hunters have reclaimed my MXUS Fat and Lightening Rod Fat. This design seems suited to the likes of what they desire if I want to sell.

The Cyclone 3000 kit is very versatile & adaptable to many bikes but its drivetrain may be the most troublesome feature of it's normal mounting scheme.

Mostly I am thinking of a dedicated low geared trail bike. Top Speed? 20 mph.

Robo, I do use my lowest gear. the gears are `18 - 48 at motor end and 32 - 42 on rear. Lightening Rod & others [gman] have claimed better chain wear and less noise with the 18-48 set up.

The trails around here have hill zones that are at the bucking angle. I can prevent bucking by sliding forward but then risk losing traction. Running lower front tire pressure and soft long travel forks tends to reduce front end bounce that can put rider/bike at bucking angle. When the front tire is in the air I have no steering control so to reduce front wheel air time is a way of keeping better control -- hence the long travel shocks.

 

[gman1971]

Well, I think the key to achieve such high power rating for so long without melting anything its been running the motor at very high RPM all the time; as in, I don't mat the gas in 8th gear from a dead stop... etc... that will ruin the drivetrain real fast, the same way you wouldn't clutch dump your stick shift car from 7000 RPM in 5th gear from a dead stop....

Now I'll be able to up the crank RPM to almost 500 RPM from the current 340 I am running ATM (Thanks Dingus, I got two of those adapters you sent me the links), running an 18T freewheel should make things even better, so it will be, for all practical purposes a mid-drive hub: 1st gear (42T) will give me 34 mph, 2nd gear (36T) will give me ~40 mph which is what I want as a target 2nd gear speed considering how smooth the trike runs and with how little power it takes to get there (~1 kW gets me 40mph cruise in flats) I will have to put the chainrings back too, as I took the small 24T one when I did the body work b/c I was never using it before, but now seems I'll be needing them again to have pulling gears.

If anything, seems that high RPM keeps the amps down and the motor cool, so there might be no need to go nuts with cooling, but then again, I also don't run the motor at 6 kW all day long either... Also, worth noting that the motor on my trike is mounted under the nose, and all the metal fins/case are all exposed to fresh undisturbed air.

I usually see 40F above ambient on the motor after a spirited ride, I've never cracked it open, nor put a thermistor inside.

G.

We can only speculate because this new coaxial design isn't even out yet. We already know the Cyclone is capable of much more than its 3000 watt rating as Gman has proven using a stock shunt-modded controller (90A/72V~6500W!). Who knows? Maybe this coaxial motor can take even more.

But you make some good points which can be applied to any bike with an in-frame motor (Bosch, Yamaha, Bafang Max, etc.).

The advantages of an in-frame motor include:
-Increased ground clearance
-Stealth (most people won't realize you have a motor)
-Cosmetic appeal
-No need for motor mounting brackets (one of the Cyclone 3000's biggest issues)
-No secondary reduction chain to maintain or drop

That frame is designed for this purpose, so it has internal routing for wires and a large space for a battery.

I asked Paco about the pivots and his reply was, "we use Powder metallurgy parts for suspension turning point is more stable, easy to replace." I'm not really sure what he's saying there.
I asked him about how it compares to the 3000W model, and he said, "is bigger then 3kw motor, this is 4kw motor, can’t make smaller then 3kw motor, the rotor is 30% longer and also different, the coil is 30% more." I don't really know what to make of that. It looks like he's rating the old motor to 4000W on his website now.

He also said it is quieter. I wonder if this is due to the fact that there is no chain reduction. I also wonder how this will affect the feel of the bike. Because of this missing reduction, it may not feel as powerful as the Cyclone 3000, but the coaxial drive does have a 22T sprocket, and I hardly ever use my climbing gear with the Cyclone 3000, so we'll really have to wait until someone tries it. What I don't understand is why they didn't change the reduction from 6:1 to something else. I guess we'll know when Dingus gets his.

Not having a secondary reduction has benefits too. The frame and chain will be under much less stress.

Personally, I've never ridden a bike long enough to where the frame is unusable. Most bicycle components can be replaced, and this frame is steel, so you can weld to it if you need to. For what they're charging for a frame, motor and controller, I think it's worth a try. There's nothing even remotely like this out there. All the offerings from the big names are 500W or less.

I also don't trust carbon fiber. My friend bought a Yeti SB6c, and the seat tube developed a crack. He doesn't even ride it that hard. Lucky for him, it was covered under warranty, but I bought a used carbon fiber Specialized Enduro 29 frame. Used means no warranty. It was not cheap. I really hope I never have to have it repaired. All my aluminum and steel bikes have been doing just fine, and I'm not afraid to use them. It will take some time for me to trust the Enduro since it's my first carbon fiber bike. I fear that any kind of contact with a rock will cause a crack.

I think the C3000w may still be the best solution long term vs the new 4000w in the frame from cyclone due to the property motor and frame to make it all work ! i.e you are locked in to this frame design and spare parts for the motor, i.e what does cyclone charge to replace a blow. motor ? they can hold you to ransom as no one else sells this.

Also the C3000w motor is capable of a lot more AFT run it at 6kw peaks so a lot more powerful than 4000w peak.

Also the other thing i dont like is you are tied to this frame design, like it or not, size etc or quality or not vs bolting on the C3000w to any bike or even a carbon fibre frame is the ultimate.

And probably the other biggest downside to the 4000w bike is as the bike wears out you are stuck with that bike ! what i have found is often all the bike parts wear out quicker than the mid drive... so easiest thing is to ditch the bike and install the mid drive kit on another new bike viola all new again.. whereas on an integrated bike you are stuck with the same bike and need to rebuild everything which is costly....

 

[gman1971]

HIgh RPM will give you longer lasting drivetrain, yes. And best to date for me has been running a 48T chainring, a 42-11T cassette mated with a Shimano 10 speed XT chain (HG-N-95) That is been the quietest, longest running and the best shifting of all configurations I've tried, by an ample margin.

Jk1 & Robo,

your thoughts and concerns about this BB Shell motor and integral frame are useful. My biggest concern is a longer wheelbase and whether to go with the ultimate Fox 40 shock at $1700 -- Ouch! I may try to find someone with this fork and try the bike for that kind of front suspension. The Elite Frame kit w/motor will be a project to work out details and likely end up as a stable & cush trail bike -- lacking some nimbleness.

So far I have been able to recoup most of the expense of a build that wasn't ideal for my uses. The elk hunters have reclaimed my MXUS Fat and Lightening Rod Fat. This design seems suited to the likes of what they desire if I want to sell.

The Cyclone 3000 kit is very versatile & adaptable to many bikes but its drivetrain may be the most troublesome feature of it's normal mounting scheme.

Mostly I am thinking of a dedicated low geared trail bike. Top Speed? 20 mph.

Robo, I do use my lowest gear. the gears are `18 - 48 at motor end and 32 - 42 on rear. Lightening Rod & others [gman] have claimed better chain wear and less noise with the 18-48 set up.

The trails around here have hill zones that are at the bucking angle. I can prevent bucking by sliding forward but then risk losing traction. Running lower front tire pressure and soft long travel forks tends to reduce front end bounce that can put rider/bike at bucking angle. When the front tire is in the air I have no steering control so to reduce front wheel air time is a way of keeping better control -- hence the long travel shocks.

 

[gman1971]

(32T chainring going to a 50T in the cassette),
[

Is this a 10speed? Link please? I haven't looked much around as of lately, but I remember only seeing 50T cassettes in the newest SRAM gruppo...

G.

 

[robocam]

It's an extender cog.

https://www.oneupcomponents.com/products/50t-shark-sprocket-18t-1x11

(32T chainring going to a 50T in the cassette),
[

Is this a 10speed? Link please? I haven't looked much around as of lately, but I remember only seeing 50T cassettes in the newest SRAM gruppo...

G.

 

[gman1971]

Steel or aluminum? if its aluminum then I'll have to keep riding the 42T, as I've tried the Wolftooth 49T, but it wore out quick, barely got 1800 miles out of it. Compared to the 5k miles from a 42T sunrace casette cog.

G.

It's an extender cog.

https://www.oneupcomponents.com/products/50t-shark-sprocket-18t-1x11

(32T chainring going to a 50T in the cassette),
[

Is this a 10speed? Link please? I haven't looked much around as of lately, but I remember only seeing 50T cassettes in the newest SRAM gruppo...

G.

 

[robocam]

Aluminum.

Steel or aluminum? if its aluminum then I'll have to keep riding the 42T, as I've tried the Wolftooth 49T, but it wore out quick, barely got 1800 miles out of it. Compared to the 5k miles from a 42T sunrace casette cog.

G.

It's an extender cog.

https://www.oneupcomponents.com/products/50t-shark-sprocket-18t-1x11

(32T chainring going to a 50T in the cassette),
[

Is this a 10speed? Link please? I haven't looked much around as of lately, but I remember only seeing 50T cassettes in the newest SRAM gruppo...

G.

 

[gman1971]

Thanks ... was hoping for a steel one

Aluminum.

 

[robocam]

Has anyone installed a Cyclone on a bike with a BB92 bottom bracket? This guy's trying to install a Cyclone on this bike, and he's looking for help.

https://www.scott-sports.com/us/en/products/249549008/SCOTT-Spark-960-Bike

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=83578&p=1302504#p1302420

 

[fcbrants]

I believe I have this problem solved.

I contacted my local bike (machine) shop:

https://www.velogold.org/

...and they're fabricating the PF41 / PF92 / PF89.5 to BSA adapter for me.

If that goes well, then we'll move on to the custom mounting brackets that will put the Cyclone inside the triangle.

Cheers!!

Franko

Has anyone installed a Cyclone on a bike with a BB92 bottom bracket? This guy's trying to install a Cyclone on this bike, and he's looking for help.

https://www.scott-sports.com/us/en/products/249549008/SCOTT-Spark-960-Bike

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=83578&p=1302504#p1302420

 

[scoobydrew]

Hi guys, hoping you can give me some advice please. I've now got a bike and hoping to get my money together to buy a cyclone. The bike is a hardtail MTB with front suspension and hydraulic disc brakes so reasonably happy with that. Now to my question... how much battery do I need?

I already have an ebike battery which is made up of 15S 3000mah lipos. I use this on a 500w Cute 128 hub motor. My commute to work is 7 miles each way, consisting of 6miles up hill on the way and 1 down hill. Currently, with lots of pedalling I use approx 2100mah for the whole trip.

I would like to re use this battery as much as possible as it is relatively new. My thoughts for my next battery would be to add another 3S 3000mah battery to the existing to make 18S 3000mah. Then, basically make a second to use in parallel, making 18S 6000mah. I still plan to pedal plenty and won't be trying to go flat out, just get to work without too much sweating.

Difficult question I know, but would appreciate your thoughts on this. Thanks guys,

Andy

 

[robocam]

Are you using LiPos because of their cost? I would just get one of these or any 18650-based pack.

https://lunacycle.com/72v/

https://em3ev.com/shop/?prod_cat_=ebike-battery-parts

Safer and easier.

Going from a 500W hub motor to a Cyclone at 66.6-72V is a HUGE increase. Are you wanting to go 50mph? If you ever want to use it on the trails, I hear 52V is more manageable (than 72V). I'm running at 52V/40A, and it feels perfect on the trails.

Hi guys, hoping you can give me some advice please. I've now got a bike and hoping to get my money together to buy a cyclone. The bike is a hardtail MTB with front suspension and hydraulic disc brakes so reasonably happy with that. Now to my question... how much battery do I need?

I already have an ebike battery which is made up of 15S 3000mah lipos. I use this on a 500w Cute 128 hub motor. My commute to work is 7 miles each way, consisting of 6miles up hill on the way and 1 down hill. Currently, with lots of pedalling I use approx 2100mah for the whole trip.

I would like to re use this battery as much as possible as it is relatively new. My thoughts for my next battery would be to add another 3S 3000mah battery to the existing to make 18S 3000mah. Then, basically make a second to use in parallel, making 18S 6000mah. I still plan to pedal plenty and won't be trying to go flat out, just get to work without too much sweating.

Difficult question I know, but would appreciate your thoughts on this. Thanks guys,

Andy

 

[RolluS]

Hello all,

I've read all the eighty-six pages. Very interesting!

I'm in the process of converting this:

Here is how we ride it:

I'm interested in the Cyclone 3000W motor, and did some calculation:
Gearbox-!-Motor freewheel-!-Sprocket-!-Speed (km/h)
---1/6---!--------13---------!-----24----!--38,513
---1/6---!--------14---------!-----24----!--41,475
---1/6---!--------14---------!-----22----!--45,245
----1-----!---------6---------!-----48----!--53,325
----1-----!---------7---------!-----48----!--62,213

First question is:
1/6*14/22 or 1*6/48?

I've understood from this thread that the more the chain speed, the less stress on the whole transmission. But... what 6T or 7T freewheel (or even fixed wheel because I will run pedaless) should suit the motor?

Then second question please:
Any idea how to attach a 22T or 48T sprocket to the rear wheel? I was thinking of using a BCD to 5 holes adapter.

And the third: were to buy? I'm from France and I'd like to get my stuff late july. I own a virtual mailbox in Nevada.

Thank you for your help guys.

 

[minimum]

[strike]Cyclone planetary gearbox has 1:5 reduction[/strike]. 11 teeth on sun gear and 55 on sun ring.

Edit: 1:6 , my bad. Thanks for pointing out.

 

[robocam]

The Cyclone actually has a 6:1 reduction.

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=69867&start=200#p1147701

Cyclone planetary gearbox has 1:5 reduction. 11 teeth on sun gear and 55 on sun ring.

 

[MBV]

Hi! I am new to the forum, but I have been reading alot here. I am building a nakamura big bob 5 fatbike with the c3k motor and a phaserunner controller +ca3. The battery I've built is a 14s7p in a custom casing. I have bought a new norwegian prototype hub gear called kindernay. The shifting mechanism is hydraulic and it seems to be very smooth.

I've also made custom brackets holding the motor and a support bearing for the freewheel on the front sprocket.

The bike is now up and running but i have problems getting it to run properly. The phaserunner refuses to recognice the hallsensors. During the auto tuning process it only says hall sensor error. Running it without them makes the motor very jerky and hard on the drivetrain. I have checked that the sensors work with a multimeter. But the phaserunner refuses to recognize them. I have ordered new ss41 honeywell hallsensors which should be a direct replacement for the oem ones, but have not received them yet. I have read that the C3000 needs 12v to the hallsensors for them to work but i dont think I can get that with the phaserunner? Is there anyone that have paired the c3k motor with a controller that supplies the halls with 5v and have it up and running? Any suggestions of what i can test?

Attached is a few pictures on the build. Still missing some parts as side plates on the battery, installing a tempsensor in the motor, PAS, ebrake switches and a chain tensioner. But i am getting there.

 

[scoobydrew]

Thanks for the reply.

I am using the LiPos because of their cost - my current pack consists of 5No. x 3S 3000mAh batteries and I was looking for the best way of re-using these.

With regards to speed, then no - I do not want to go 50mph. 30mph would be plenty. My rational for the battery was not to achieve 72V and max power, more just to make best use of what I've got already. I would end up buying 7No. 3S LiPos to make the battery. Using the batteries in parallel would also meet the 40A requirement which I think the controller needs at max. The battery would give approx 400Whrs in total. I was wondering if people thought this might be adequate for the intended distance.

I will be using almost exclusively on the road, with the occasional hop across a kerb or down a dedicated bike path. Definately no 'off-roading'. I do agree that a lower voltage may make it more friendly however.

Thanks

Andy

Are you using LiPos because of their cost? I would just get one of these or any 18650-based pack.

https://lunacycle.com/72v/

https://em3ev.com/shop/?prod_cat_=ebike-battery-parts

Safer and easier.

Going from a 500W hub motor to a Cyclone at 66.6-72V is a HUGE increase. Are you wanting to go 50mph? If you ever want to use it on the trails, I hear 52V is more manageable (than 72V). I'm running at 52V/40A, and it feels perfect on the trails.

Hi guys, hoping you can give me some advice please. I've now got a bike and hoping to get my money together to buy a cyclone. The bike is a hardtail MTB with front suspension and hydraulic disc brakes so reasonably happy with that. Now to my question... how much battery do I need?

I already have an ebike battery which is made up of 15S 3000mah lipos. I use this on a 500w Cute 128 hub motor. My commute to work is 7 miles each way, consisting of 6miles up hill on the way and 1 down hill. Currently, with lots of pedalling I use approx 2100mah for the whole trip.

I would like to re use this battery as much as possible as it is relatively new. My thoughts for my next battery would be to add another 3S 3000mah battery to the existing to make 18S 3000mah. Then, basically make a second to use in parallel, making 18S 6000mah. I still plan to pedal plenty and won't be trying to go flat out, just get to work without too much sweating.

Difficult question I know, but would appreciate your thoughts on this. Thanks guys,

Andy

 

[RolluS]

Any idea how I could attach a sprocket on a 55 mm hub please?

I'd really want to ruin this motor because I cannot find any alternative. DD hub won't fit, mid drive is the only solution I see..