new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

[RolluS]

I was thinking about hub sprocket adapter like those we can find on 80cc gasser conversion

Can it be used with a thin 9 speed chain please?

 

[robocam]

What about something like this?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ebike-kit-motor-bike-conversion-kit-all-most-bicycles-Electric-Bicycle/192045080486?_trksid=p2047675.c100009.m1982&_trkparms=aid%3D888007%26algo%3DDISC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D44759%26meid%3Df4534ec9ff304ac1ac19cd88d944f080%26pid%3D100009%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D2%26sd%3D172683094205

Any idea how I could attach a sprocket on a 55 mm hub please?

I'd really want to ruin this motor because I cannot find any alternative. DD hub won't fit, mid drive is the only solution I see...

 

[RolluS]

Thank you @robocam, nice find!

I ave all my setup for 60~72V (controller, bms, LiPos, etc..)

These kits does not exist for these voltage level. This is what's brang me in this thread.

 

[gman1971]

I was thinking about hub sprocket adapter like those we can find on 80cc gasser conversion

Can it be used with a thin 9 speed chain please?

Not sure, but chances are it won't fit b/c the 3/32 might not be wide enough to fit through the teeth....

G.

 

[gman1971]

Thank you @robocam, nice find!

I ave all my setup for 60~72V (controller, bms, LiPos, etc..)

These kits does not exist for these voltage level. This is what's brang me in this thread.

72V on that thing?? Whoah man, you are very VERY brave... if wheelies can be a problem on a normal bike running on 52V, I can't imagine how that thing is going to handle with the full 72V cyclone 3000W motor on it...

G.

 

[RolluS]

Yep.

This thing is 84V, check specs: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gotway-Monster-22inch-fastest-electric-unicycle-scooter-/332057007375

Maybe I'll need a wheelie bar :lol:
I plan to use a throttle limiter based on gyroscope/accelerometer/ultrasound

 

[Skaiwerd]

RolluS

Doesn't look right for the money. No mention of self balancing, regen braking, phone app/control etc. I'd try making one first, riding it would be a different story.

 

[fcbrants]

Actually, it looks like they have all of the above & they're catching on like wildfire...

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=gotway

I've seen riders Passing Cars on the Road... much to the consternation of the drivers, I'm sure...

Franko

RolluS

Doesn't look right for the money. No mention of self balancing, regen braking, phone app/control etc. I'd try making one first, riding it would be a different story.

 

[robocam]

That thing is "only" 1800W. I'm not sure you understand how powerful the Cyclone is, but if you build this, you will quickly find out =) Just make sure you're in full armor before you try it out.

Yep.

This thing is 84V, check specs: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gotway-Monster-22inch-fastest-electric-unicycle-scooter-/332057007375

Maybe I'll need a wheelie bar :lol:
I plan to use a throttle limiter based on gyroscope/accelerometer/ultrasound

 

[RolluS]

Ok guys, you may have convinced me.

I've already bought the cyclone. Is there a close alternative, with half the power?
Here is a 3000w scooter: https://youtu.be/CyU8Cso6ERM

3000W is about 4HP. That will be 25Kg per HP.

@robocam, for sure I will have a body armor for testing (like motocross riders)

 

[gman1971]

Ok guys, you may have convinced me.

I've already bought the cyclone. Is there a close alternative, with half the power?
Here is a 3000w scooter: https://youtu.be/CyU8Cso6ERM

3000W is about 4HP. That will be 25Kg per HP.

@robocam, for sure I will have a body armor for testing (like motocross riders)

The problem is that once you hit the gas, that thing is going to wheelie like insane and your head is a the top of the lever arm so guess hat is going to hit the pavement first... so yes, a wheelie bar or a wheelie "wheel" would be more like in tune when you install the c3w on that. Also, you might not realize but the C3w motor is huge compared to that contraption, so you might have to figure out a way to mount it without being in the way...

I am still wondering why not go with a regular 2 speed hub? or the alternative motor that Robocam showed you earlier?

G.

 

[gman1971]

That seems a bit expensive.... and while it has 1800W it seems like its integrated on the device and somehow built to take into account 1800W... but in my opinion, IMO, of course, the point of having a C3000W on an eBike is for the acceleration benefits you get out of the higher wattage for offroading, but on that thing having that much power will be pretty much useless as you can't really accelerate beyond what your weight/gravity is. Even full leaning forward you'll, most likely, still flip a C3000W running even on 52V just running ~2 kW. So on 72V will be suicidal... maybe an eSkate would be more "safe" and appropriate?

BUT.... by all means man, don't let any of my words deter you!! Get the dang thing running b/c I want to see some videos of it hahaha..

G.

Yep.

This thing is 84V, check specs: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gotway-Monster-22inch-fastest-electric-unicycle-scooter-/332057007375

Maybe I'll need a wheelie bar :lol:
I plan to use a throttle limiter based on gyroscope/accelerometer/ultrasound

 

[RolluS]

I am still wondering why not go with a regular 2 speed hub? or the alternative motor that Robocam showed you earlier?
G.

G., Thanks for your interest.
I would really like a little 500~1500W motor like the one shown by Robocam. If only I could find one that handle 16 to 20S, because that's my battery/BMS setup now.
Hub motor has been tried but because the axle length is really short, it won't fit unless I find a 75mm hub motor.

 

[RolluS]

That seems a bit expensive.... and while it has 1800W it seems like its integrated on the device and somehow built to take into account 1800W...

It is, electric unicycle are expensive, specially Gotway, for what it is, but you must try and learn to appreciate, that's an awesome vehicle.

I couldn't find anything to bite c3w in terms of requirements for my build. The power is twice too much and maybe dangerous I agree, but voltage, speed, is just what I need.

 

[gman1971]

That seems a bit expensive.... and while it has 1800W it seems like its integrated on the device and somehow built to take into account 1800W...

It is, electric unicycle are expensive, specially Gotway, for what it is, but you must try and learn to appreciate, that's an awesome vehicle.

I couldn't find anything to bite c3w in terms of requirements for my build. The power is twice too much and maybe dangerous I agree, but voltage, speed, is just what I need.

You could de-shunt the controller to do only 20 amps, by just cutting one of the two shut resistors inside the controller... that will cut the engine overall torque curve in half, giving you 1500W at max or so... which will be perfect for endurance and to limit acceleration by a LOT... (I've tried it, it really tames the c3000w motor)


G.

 

[gman1971]

I am still wondering why not go with a regular 2 speed hub? or the alternative motor that Robocam showed you earlier?
G.

G., Thanks for your interest.
I would really like a little 500~1500W motor like the one shown by Robocam. If only I could find one that handle 16 to 20S, because that's my battery/BMS setup now.
Hub motor has been tried but because the axle length is really short, it won't fit unless I find a 75mm hub motor.

You could run the C3000W controller on one of those motors,... again, I would de-shunt it, so it tames the power by 1/2 half or so...

G.

 

[RolluS]

Thanks, G.

Current limiting will be the way to derate it. Good idea

 

[gman1971]

Figured I'd post some fun with the Cyclone 3000W trikes, and showcase what 6.5kW pulls in 1st gear look/sound like, the A-1 trike is @ 35 mph at the end of each one of the straights on this little "Race track"

BTW, I am the camera man, my son is driving A-1 and his cousin driving A-2 which only runs 3 kW vs 6.5 kW on A-1, the difference is brutal in raw acceleration.

Enjoy...
https://youtu.be/vqdeZMUZo9k

G.

 

[RolluS]

Really nice!

6.5kW is awesome.

I like the way they are both build, congrats.

 

[gman1971]

Really nice!

6.5kW is awesome.

I like the way they are both build, congrats.

Thanks man, yeah, those things are a blast to ride around like go-karts as they corner really well; sadly, I've only done that race loop a couple of times, and both times spaced well in terms of timing to avoid fellow subdivision homeowners wrath...

The thing that amazes me the most is that A-1 is about 7000 miles now (and counting), one wouldn't think that it had that many miles... you can beat the crap out of it one afternoon, then go to work the next day with the utmost reliability, which is I why I love those Cyclone motors.... and still running like a champ. On another video that I haven't posted A-1 is drag racing A-2 and its clear how bad A-2 loses to A-1... just unreal what twice the power can do to get you going, other than that, both trikes run identical, mechanical, electrical and battery configurations.

So, get that thing running man! can't wait to see some crazy acceleration!

G.

 

[dirkdiggler]

Gman -
Do you have a vid or pics of your shunt mod on the controller? Just wanted some more amps! I did just buy a Kelly kls7230s to use on the cyclone, but until it arrives....
I've loved the 3kw cyclones so much I'm toying with getting the 7.5 motor for my Enduro build.

 

[gman1971]

Gman -
Do you have a vid or pics of your shunt mod on the controller? Just wanted some more amps! I did just buy a Kelly kls7230s to use on the cyclone, but until it arrives....
I've loved the 3kw cyclones so much I'm toying with getting the 7.5 motor for my Enduro build.

Just pop the plate from the end where no cables come out, you'll see two thick metal bars that looks like handles, pry them together with pliers and add some solder to keep them together. The more solder you add, the more amps you get. I maxed mine out, as mine wont do anything beyond 90A; yours might be different as to how much you can push out of it.

Nice, yes, I also thought about the 7500XL motor, but I don't think I need to go any faster than what the C3000W provides; heck, I rarely go above 2500W on the modded trike... and sometimes I am debating about removing the shunt-mod to restore it back to 3kW... but just the hassle of opening it up, and the acceleration rush are whats preventing me from doing it.

G.

 

[ebike11]

Hey guys
I have a standard GNG mid drive on my bike.
Would the 3000w motor be a huge upgrade or just a minor one?

 

[DingusMcGee]

The Low Tech Solution:

This project was one way of adapting the big Cyclone BB steel rings 48T, 44T and 36T to make an all steel ring cassette with quite large steel rings. These Cyclone BB rings can be purchased either from Luna Cycle or Sick Bike Parts and have the 4 hole 104mm BCD pattern. The process requires no lathe work or centering jigs for centering because of a serendipitous fit [almost] of the 26T chainring from a SRAM cluster to the 104mm bolt pattern of the Cyclone rings. The 26 tooth cog with some round file milling back forth between 2 diametrically opposite chain tooth spaces that almost fit the bolt pattern of the big chain wheel can be fitted as a very accurate centering job if a 10mm or 5/16" diameter bolt is moved into the hole you are not filling. Take about 10 files strokes and then move the stabilizing bolt to the other hole and begin filing the opposite open hole for 10 strokes. Repeat until the bolts pass thru the assembly easily.

Two of these 26T cogs were placed one between the 48T - 44T steel BB rings and the other between the 44T - 36T rings. After pushing two bolts thur these two holes the teeth projecting into the other two 104 BCD holes were milled with an 1/8" milling tool in a dremel tool. The 26T rings also act as spacers between these chainrings. You will need some cassettes to take apart to get the cogs you need for fitting and those you will want for the final cog pattern [new].

It turns out that a 13T cog just fits inside the 2.13" hole of the big steel rings. Two of the 13T cogs will aid in centering the cassette when building the set of cogs and spacers to the lock nut. The use of a shimano cassette carrier sleeve bearing will stabilized the cog assembly considerably. You most likely will need one 13T cog placed at innermost position on the carrier [before the 48T ring] to stabilize the flexing of the 2 26T cogs. This will reduce your gear space by one gear and likely result in a steel six speed cassette [ the 13t 12t and 11 t would not fit very well with the spacing I left ] that you must use with friction shifters to meet the less than uniform chainring spacing pattern.

I plan on adding three 1/4" diameter bolts placed thru the arms of the two 26 cogs and thru the 3 large chain rings to make the cassette assembly have a considerably higher torque deformation resistance.

The cassette unit shifts fine both up and down. I have not got the edirtbike to the trails yet but likely no more bent big ring high $$ cassette failures occurring?

 

[gman1971]

Nice solution, I assume this is for a 7spd drivetrain?

SunRace makes an 11-42T all steel cassette, but for 10spd... I've had good luck with that one.

G.

The Low Tech Solution:

This project was one way of adapting the big Cyclone BB steel rings 48T, 44T and 36T to make an all steel ring cassette with quite large steel rings. These Cyclone BB rings can be purchased either from Luna Cycle or Sick Bike Parts and have the 4 hole 104mm BCD pattern. The process requires no lathe work or centering jigs for centering because of a serendipitous fit [almost] of the 26T chainring from a SRAM cluster to the 104mm bolt pattern of the Cyclone rings. The 26 tooth cog with some round file milling back forth between 2 diametrically opposite chain tooth spaces that almost fit the bolt pattern of the big chain wheel can be fitted as a very accurate centering job if a 10mm or 5/16" diameter bolt is moved into the hole you are not filling. Take about 10 files strokes and then move the stabilizing bolt to the other hole and begin filing the opposite open hole for 10 strokes. Repeat until the bolts pass thru the assembly easily.

Two of these 26T cogs were placed one between the 48T - 44T steel BB rings and the other between the 44T - 36T rings. After pushing two bolts thur these two holes the teeth projecting into the other two 104 BCD holes were milled with an 1/8" milling tool in a dremel tool. The 26T rings also act as spacers between these chainrings. You will need some cassettes to take apart to get the cogs you need for fitting and those you will want for the final cog pattern [new].

It turns out that a 13T cog just fits inside the 2.13" hole of the big steel rings. Two of the 13T cogs will aid in centering the cassette when building the set of cogs and spacers to the lock nut. The use of a shimano cassette carrier sleeve bearing will stabilized the cog assembly considerably. You most likely will need one 13T cog placed at innermost position on the carrier [before the 48T ring] to stabilize the flexing of the 2 26T cogs. This will reduce your gear space by one gear and likely result in a steel six speed cassette [ the 13t 12t and 11 t would not fit very well with the spacing I left ] that you must use with friction shifters to meet the less than uniform chainring spacing pattern.

I plan on adding three 1/4" diameter bolts placed thru the arms of the two 26 cogs and thru the 3 large chain rings to make the cassette assembly have a considerably higher torque deformation resistance.

The cassette unit shifts fine both up and down. I have not got the edirtbike to the trails yet but likely no more bent big ring high $$ cassette failures occurring?


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