new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

[1KW]

so currently no one is offering an affordable ready to buy mounting solution? What about freewheel upgrades ect? Rather build it the first time right, so I dont have to tinker with it 50x.

 

[dekes1]

Not sure what the problem is with the stock mounting brackets. I'm running 19s (around 72v nominal) at 50-60 amps and although I've broken a chain and tore up a derailleur, I've never bent the bolts as bad as that photo. Those washers actually provide very little surface contact with the mating surfaces and make the whole thing weaker. Use case hardened bolts and the original brackets, make sure the BB nuts are super tight, and this thing will be just fine.

 

[robocam]

Why do you say the washers make it weaker? The washers enable the threaded tubes to be able to withstand significantly higher lateral loads. They should only help.

I emailed Luna Cycle support, and they told me that they hear of bent brackets all the time. On my bike, at 52V, I can see the motor twisting as I apply the throttle. If I ran 72V at 60 amps on my Cyclone, I'm sure it would cause significant damage to the stock mounting brackets.

Not sure what the problem is with the stock mounting brackets. I'm running 19s (around 72v nominal) at 50-60 amps and although I've broken a chain and tore up a derailleur, I've never bent the bolts as bad as that photo. Those washers actually provide very little surface contact with the mating surfaces and make the whole thing weaker. Use case hardened bolts and the original brackets, make sure the BB nuts are super tight, and this thing will be just fine.

 

[robocam]

Are you looking for a freewheel upgrade for any particular reason? Are you referring to the one on the motor shaft?

Knowing what I know now, if I had to do it over, I probably should have gotten the 2016 GNG belt-driven mid drive. It's on its 3rd generation, so many of the kinks have been worked out, and now they sell it with a 35A controller. I have their 2015 version, and other than a junk crankset, the motor and bracket are great. When I used it with a Cyclone crankset, everything was fine. I only upgraded because a certain someone kept raving about their Cyclone. Maybe I should put the GNG back on.

http://www.gngebike.com/gng-belt-kit-2016

Another option I'm considering, now that I have the Cyclone, is to get a Cycle Analyst or a Lyen controller so that I can limit the current. I would prefer that my bike not be ripped to shreds.

so currently no one is offering an affordable ready to buy mounting solution? What about freewheel upgrades ect? Rather build it the first time right, so I dont have to tinker with it 50x.

 

[1KW]

id rather not go gng more chains, more adjustments plenty of problems . Just saying if set up right the first time, i see little that can break this kit from the last hour I've spent reading the reviews. If the mounting system is upgraded, however It seems hardware upgrade, plus a plumbing style rubber brace instead of the zip tie (Lol) would work on anything less than 52v.

 

[robocam]

You mean the belt? Yeah, that was one plus of the Cyclone, no belt.

Do we have any here successful on 13S 48V using the stock brackets?

id rather not go gng more chains, more adjustments plenty of problems . Just saying if set up right the first time, i see little that can break this kit from the last hour I've spent reading the reviews. If the mounting system is upgraded, however It seems hardware upgrade, plus a plumbing style rubber brace instead of the zip tie (Lol) would work on anything less than 52v.

 

[gman1971]

I am unsure why it bent so bad...

And the washers do help, quite a bit actually. I would suggest also adding a block to make the motor sit over the frame tube flush, so it doesn't have a fulcrum point to bend againt...

I would never ride a GNG kit ever again after my last one...

G.

 

[robocam]

Yeah, I'm definitely going to make some changes to the mount. I still like the Cyclone motor itself. I just wanted to clarify to other readers that the GNG you're talking about is the Gen2 which uses a converted geared hub motor, which is totally different than the belt-driven mid drive that was once so popular, spawning the Lightningrods mid drive. The fault of your original GNG probably lies more with the company that makes the hub motor.

But the current GNG, which is clearly a knockoff of the Lightningrods mid drive, might be worth a try. Based on the components they're using, it looks like they're learning.

I am unsure why it bent so bad...

And the washers do help, quite a bit actually. I would suggest also adding a block to make the motor sit over the frame tube flush, so it doesn't have a fulcrum point to bend againt...

I would never ride a GNG kit ever again after my last one...

G.

 

[gman1971]

I wired most of the electrical stuff last night and the 12V auxiliary rail works. I should have my MT-G2 and XHP-70 leds arriving tomorrow. Once all the lights are assembled installed I'll have around 15,000 lumens coming out of the front of my Trike when I enable the flash-to-pass high beams. I'll run around 6000 lumens on the dual MT-G2 setup for normal lights. For the rear I am going to stay with the XP-L led that came with the light housing, I don't need a blinding tail light so I should be fine with that one, for about 700 or so lumens.

And the day finally came to pass... I just ordered a brand new Cyclone 3000W kit. And the chainring, in case someone thought I was just making it up is a 44-48-24T I also ordered a Cyclone PAS sensor, gonna see how well it works. Doing this for a complete hands free eTrike experience. Especially for a long slow trip I much rather pedal than hold the throttle down...

I also ordered some other misc parts from Cyclone as well, and although I don't foresee much repairs given the track record I had it is good to have spare parts.

All in all the Trike should be almost operational by next weekend. I am debating about taking the Cycle Analyst off my eBike just to see what its doing, at least during the beginning, but the Cyclone should come with a numeric voltage readout throttle so that would be plenty to get me started.

More updates as they happen.

G.

 

[gman1971]

Those aren't spacers. They're washers over the long silver threaded tubes to make the setup much stiffer. The idea came from the post in the link below. Unfortunately, with the spacers, the Cyclone just bends other parts, like the bolts instead. The stock brackets for the Cyclone just can't handle the power (at least not at 52V).

https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=69867&start=50#p1143246

...Robocam, why you have so many spacers? It is like you are missing the long silver ones....

Ahh, nostalgic feelings when the bike was all clean!!

G.

 

[cmm8622]

Hey everyone,

Been following this thread for awhile and its been super helpful. Here's my situation: we have a cooperative business that pickups up food scraps and turns them into compost with partner urban farms and backyard gardeners...all by bike. We are getting into the few hundred pound loads, which is fine when its flat, but being the in DC metro area, there are some serious hills that are routes are inevitably going to have to deal with more and more.

A college friend befriended Justin from Grin ("yeah I live with this guy who likes to tinker with eBikes, you should talk..."...small world) and so I asked him his thoughts and he put a few options out and referred me to a fella who electrified the trailer itself, as well as utilized 2 hub motors. The trailer's wheels have strong hubmotors, and this dude is pulling hundreds of pounds on BC Canada hills. Very impressive but I'm not quite there. I'm sold on the mid-drive for now, opting to electrify the trailer down the road.

So first I learned about the BBSHD. The led to reading about the Lightning Rods Small Block kit. I have been on the cusp of ordering a LRSB kit, but that's the holdup...I can't get a response from Mike anymore. That lag in service made me research alternate options because at this point, time is money! The sooner we get a motor setup, the more efficient our operation will be obviously.

So before I place the Cyclone 3kw order, a few questions for you all....and remember, we don't care about top speed. Torque/hauling capacity are more of our concerns.

1) This is moreso for those who have used the LRSB kit....is there any advantage to the LRSB over the Cyclone. In many ways, I'm sold on the Cyclone (I can order RIGHT NOW, its cheaper, and has a good deal of power to get us moving better). But I'd be curious if there's any features to the LRSB that outshines the Cyclone...

2) Is there another kit we should consider besides the BBSHD (well, that's not really a consideration anymore), Cyclone, and LRSB?

3) GMan (and others in this boat): given our situation, would you suggest any tweaks to your drivetrain/gearing setup for increased hauling capability/efficiency?

4) Batteries: when I told the Luna forum I was going to start with a BBSHD and migrate to a LRSB eventually, the 52V 20 Ah PF pack got the most votes. Now I am looking at the Panasonic 52V 24ah GA and Samsung 25r 52V 20ah. Thoughts??? (anyone wanting to suggest Lipo and other battery types, wait for the next question please

5) Batteries pt 2: I have been going at this thinking I would use an 18650, but as a side question, cost aside, is there any reason to consider alternate battery options (Lipo, etc)?

Thanks so much in advance for your help!!

 

[tomjasz]

All in all the Trike should be almost operational by next weekend. I am debating about taking the Cycle Analyst off my eBike just to see what its doing, at least during the beginning, but the Cyclone should come with a numeric voltage readout throttle so that would be plenty to get me started.

More updates as they happen.

G.

Really excited to see this one develop.. I'm probably gonna try a BattMan on the build I intended for the CA3. Maybe you want to try the BattMan? It's a lot less complex and cheaper too. Lemme know.

Did I miss it in the thread? Which trike? Not a delta?

 

[robocam]

After my initial disappointment with the Cyclone's stock bracket, I decided to do something about it, so I added an aluminum bracket and increased the size of the bolts from 6mm to 1/4" (6.35 mm), and I also used a couple grade 8 bolts along with tight-fitting steel sleeves that increased their diameter to 1/2". I've included a few photos below. The 1/4" bolts fit through the aluminum squares, but they were a tight fit in the black spacers, so I used a tap and threaded them. All the parts were purchased from Lowes.

 

[gman1971]

Hey cmm,

So I don't have much experience with LRSB... so I can't comment on that.

As for cyclone if you are not going to be doing wheelies and running 4.4 kW out of the drivetrain then the stock hardware is more than fine.

The Cyclone will have a far better cargo capacity than a BBSHD, plus you can get a 11-42T cassette with a 24 chainring and it will probably tow the Space Shuttle...

My advice would be to get the following for reliability:

A Cyclone 3000W with a 14T motor freewheel, a triple chainring either of 44-48-24T or 44-48-32T and an 11-36T cassette. Use a BMX chain from motor to crank, and use whatever chain you like for the back. You can go 7 speeds if you can find an 11-34 at the very least, and if you do not find something like that in 7 or 8 spd then get the 44-48-24T to make up for the lack of the 36 or 42 cogs. The key is to keep the sprockets as big as you can possibly can to reduce chain wear.

Modify the controller to run mode #3 exclusively, don't bother with either of the other two modes, which keep the motor at its torque RPM range, and you want your motor OUT of the torquey area so you can use the RPM portion to save your drivetrain. You don't need torque on the motor to tow stuff. You need torque at the REAR WHEEL to tow stuff, and how you get there doesn't matter, but the safest way? Have loads of RPM and use a final drive at the cassette to convert those RPMs to neck wrenching torque...

I use the 48T exclusively for road commuting, again, I don't do wheelies nor abuse my ebike.

I will never advocate for premade batteries. I used to make my own NiCad, NiMH car racing packs back in the 90s and once I switched to Lipo I am never going for anything less. These hold more energy for the same weight (a must in flight applications), and they are generally smaller than their LiFePo counterparts. Arguably less safer, mostly black legend around LiPos spread by other chemistry manufacturers to boycott LiPos... In the decade I've been using them the only fires I had where the ones I started by hammering the pack with a sledgehammer... so you really have to try real hard to blow LiPos these days... in the past? sure, some of the really old stuff (pre 2005) stuff was considerably way more dangerous than today's batteries: didn't stop from ppl flying their RC aircraft with those...

G.

Hey everyone,

Been following this thread for awhile and its been super helpful. Here's my situation: we have a cooperative business that pickups up food scraps and turns them into compost with partner urban farms and backyard gardeners...all by bike. We are getting into the few hundred pound loads, which is fine when its flat, but being the in DC metro area, there are some serious hills that are routes are inevitably going to have to deal with more and more.

A college friend befriended Justin from Grin ("yeah I live with this guy who likes to tinker with eBikes, you should talk..."...small world) and so I asked him his thoughts and he put a few options out and referred me to a fella who electrified the trailer itself, as well as utilized 2 hub motors. The trailer's wheels have strong hubmotors, and this dude is pulling hundreds of pounds on BC Canada hills. Very impressive but I'm not quite there. I'm sold on the mid-drive for now, opting to electrify the trailer down the road.

So first I learned about the BBSHD. The led to reading about the Lightning Rods Small Block kit. I have been on the cusp of ordering a LRSB kit, but that's the holdup...I can't get a response from Mike anymore. That lag in service made me research alternate options because at this point, time is money! The sooner we get a motor setup, the more efficient our operation will be obviously.

So before I place the Cyclone 3kw order, a few questions for you all....and remember, we don't care about top speed. Torque/hauling capacity are more of our concerns.

1) This is moreso for those who have used the LRSB kit....is there any advantage to the LRSB over the Cyclone. In many ways, I'm sold on the Cyclone (I can order RIGHT NOW, its cheaper, and has a good deal of power to get us moving better). But I'd be curious if there's any features to the LRSB that outshines the Cyclone...

2) Is there another kit we should consider besides the BBSHD (well, that's not really a consideration anymore), Cyclone, and LRSB?

3) GMan (and others in this boat): given our situation, would you suggest any tweaks to your drivetrain/gearing setup for increased hauling capability/efficiency?

4) Batteries: when I told the Luna forum I was going to start with a BBSHD and migrate to a LRSB eventually, the 52V 20 Ah PF pack got the most votes. Now I am looking at the Panasonic 52V 24ah GA and Samsung 25r 52V 20ah. Thoughts??? (anyone wanting to suggest Lipo and other battery types, wait for the next question please

5) Batteries pt 2: I have been going at this thinking I would use an 18650, but as a side question, cost aside, is there any reason to consider alternate battery options (Lipo, etc)?

Thanks so much in advance for your help!!

 

[gman1971]

After my initial disappointment with the Cyclone's stock bracket, I decided to do something about it, so I added an aluminum bracket and increased the size of the bolts from 5mm to 1/4", and I also used a couple grade 8 bolts along with tight-fitting steel sleeves that increased their diameter to 1/2". I've included a few photos below. The 1/4" bolts fit through the aluminum squares, but they were a tight fit in the black spacers, so I used a tap and threaded them. All the parts were purchased from Lowes.

Looking good Robocam!!

G.

 

[gman1971]

Yes, but in the icy roads of WI, open chains, sprockets and gears is a problem waiting to happen. The Cyclone 3000W geared motor is simplicity at is finest. Salt and water can't get in the transmission to corrode the snot out of everything.

The GNG Gen2 was a complete turd, and altogether, the only component that never broke was the controller... the rest? worthless... Little details like countersunk screws on the Cyclone set it apart from the GNG... really.

G.

Yeah, I'm definitely going to make some changes to the mount. I still like the Cyclone motor itself. I just wanted to clarify to other readers that the GNG you're talking about is the Gen2 which uses a converted geared hub motor, which is totally different than the belt-driven mid drive that was once so popular, spawning the Lightningrods mid drive. The fault of your original GNG probably lies more with the company that makes the hub motor.

But the current GNG, which is clearly a knockoff of the Lightningrods mid drive, might be worth a try. Based on the components they're using, it looks like they're learning.

I am unsure why it bent so bad...

And the washers do help, quite a bit actually. I would suggest also adding a block to make the motor sit over the frame tube flush, so it doesn't have a fulcrum point to bend againt...

I would never ride a GNG kit ever again after my last one...

G.

 

[robocam]

Hi!

1) The LRSB kit has a gear ratio of 33.3:1, and the Cyclone, 20.3:1 (using the stock 44T chainring). At equivalent power (i.e. both systems at say 2000 watts), the LRSB will send more torque to the wheels at a lower speed (simply because of its higher gear ratio). The LRSB was designed so that you could pedal along with the motor (the higher gear ratio allows the crank to spin more slowly). Now at the power levels people are using these kits at (> 2000 watts), human input is negligible. Therefore, the pedal-along capability of the LRSB is less of an advantage. In fact, it could be a disadvantage depending on your setup because of the tremendous amount of torque it's sending through the bike chain.

On my 29er, I have a Wolftooth Components 42T cog in my cassette. I added that to my system before I even had a mid drive. When I installed my first mid drive (a 2015 GNG belt-driven unit), I quickly realized I had absolutely no need for it. The torque from the motor was more than adequate. Now that I have a Cyclone, I feel I only need to start with the middle gears even when towing a 100 lb trailer (32T chainring up front). I just can't imagine ever needing a 24 tooth chainring. I recommend that you first try the Cyclone with the included 44/44 to see how it feels before you make any further decisions. Right now I'm using the stock 44/44 but I added a 32, and I only use the 32. Having the 32 added to the 44/44 improves my chain line as well. I feel that for my use (general purpose playing around at relatively low speeds), this setup works very well.

I used to long for the LRSB, and when the GNG knockoff came out, I almost bought it, but now that I have the Cyclone dialed in, I'm loving its simplicity. No belts to tension or replace.

2) What kind of bike are you mounting this to? What voltage do you plan to use?

3) Tweaks to increase longevity generally consist of decreasing the secondary gear reduction. You can increase the tooth count of the motor sprocket (13 to 14) to reduce the strain on the motor chain (which also reduces the amount of flex your bike frame experiences), and you can reduce the tooth count on the crankset chainring (the one the motor drives) to reduce the strain on the bike chain. That is why Gman recommends using a 48 to drive the cassette. However, not all bikes will accept a 48T in the middle of the crankset. Mine only takes a 44. A 48 in that location will hit the chainstay. Again, I recommend trying out the stock parts to get a better feel before you change anything.

Tweaks to increase efficiency generally consist of doing things to allow the motor to spin as fast as it can. That's where electric motors are the happiest. To do this, you will have to enable speed 3 by connecting the black and pink wires of the 3-speed connector together, as Gman has pointed out. When you're using your bike, always try to use the highest gear ratio you can. The idea is to let the motor spin as fast as possible to maintain your desired speed. You want to use the largest cog in the cassette that is able to maintain your desired speed. This will use the least amount of power possible. This is one reason why a mid drive is better than a hub motor. With a hub motor, you can't choose different gears to increase your efficiency.

One thing I want to mention about the Cyclone's throttle is that it is sensitive. It's easy to accidentally do a wheelie. If you're the only one riding, you could probably get used to it, but if that were ever to be a problem, you could use a Cycle Analyst 3 to remap the throttle. You can also use it to set current, power, or speed limits.

4) I have the Luna Cycles 52V 20Ah Samsung 25r pack, and I love it. I chose it because of the 25r's awesome characteristics. I love that high-current drains do not significantly reduce its capacity. In lesser cells, a high-current drain will result in less capacity. If you look at page 4 of the datasheet, you'll see that a 10A drain on a single cell barely affected its Ah capacity. Its energy in Wh was slightly reduced, but not by much. The 25r is quite a nice cell.

https://www.powerstream.com/p/INR18650-25R-datasheet.pdf

What kind of range do you need? Are you able to borrow a friend's battery to determine a worst case scenario energy usage? The thing about different cells is that two might have the same or similar capacity but when drained at high currents, one will outshine the other. For example, one battery might have significantly less effective Ah than another even though they're both 20Ah packs. This all depends on how much current you draw. Since I didn't know, and I thought I might upgrade someday, I chose the 25r. It was only $100 more, so I figured it was worth it.

5)I like 18650-based packs because they're lighter than LiFePO4 and safer than Lipo. My concern with Lipos lies during charging. If the charger malfunctions, the batteries could burst into flames. Basically, you can never charge them unattended, and if you want to charge them unattended, you'd probably have to remove them from your bike, and that could get annoying. I'm sure there are plenty of people that are doing "fine" with Lipos, but 18650 batteries do not have this risk (see page 15 in the 25r datasheet). I love my 25r pack. I don't feel compelled to use another technology at this time.

Hey everyone,

Been following this thread for awhile and its been super helpful. Here's my situation: we have a cooperative business that pickups up food scraps and turns them into compost with partner urban farms and backyard gardeners...all by bike. We are getting into the few hundred pound loads, which is fine when its flat, but being the in DC metro area, there are some serious hills that are routes are inevitably going to have to deal with more and more.

A college friend befriended Justin from Grin ("yeah I live with this guy who likes to tinker with eBikes, you should talk..."...small world) and so I asked him his thoughts and he put a few options out and referred me to a fella who electrified the trailer itself, as well as utilized 2 hub motors. The trailer's wheels have strong hubmotors, and this dude is pulling hundreds of pounds on BC Canada hills. Very impressive but I'm not quite there. I'm sold on the mid-drive for now, opting to electrify the trailer down the road.

So first I learned about the BBSHD. The led to reading about the Lightning Rods Small Block kit. I have been on the cusp of ordering a LRSB kit, but that's the holdup...I can't get a response from Mike anymore. That lag in service made me research alternate options because at this point, time is money! The sooner we get a motor setup, the more efficient our operation will be obviously.

So before I place the Cyclone 3kw order, a few questions for you all....and remember, we don't care about top speed. Torque/hauling capacity are more of our concerns.

1) This is moreso for those who have used the LRSB kit....is there any advantage to the LRSB over the Cyclone. In many ways, I'm sold on the Cyclone (I can order RIGHT NOW, its cheaper, and has a good deal of power to get us moving better). But I'd be curious if there's any features to the LRSB that outshines the Cyclone...

2) Is there another kit we should consider besides the BBSHD (well, that's not really a consideration anymore), Cyclone, and LRSB?

3) GMan (and others in this boat): given our situation, would you suggest any tweaks to your drivetrain/gearing setup for increased hauling capability/efficiency?

4) Batteries: when I told the Luna forum I was going to start with a BBSHD and migrate to a LRSB eventually, the 52V 20 Ah PF pack got the most votes. Now I am looking at the Panasonic 52V 24ah GA and Samsung 25r 52V 20ah. Thoughts??? (anyone wanting to suggest Lipo and other battery types, wait for the next question please

5) Batteries pt 2: I have been going at this thinking I would use an 18650, but as a side question, cost aside, is there any reason to consider alternate battery options (Lipo, etc)?

Thanks so much in advance for your help!!

 

[robocam]

Thanks Gman! I got a chance to do a test ride today, and it is rock solid! I'm thrilled! I can't wait to try speed 3! Here's a picture of my work in progress.

Looking good Robocam!!

G.

 

[gman1971]

Thanks Gman! I got a chance to do a test ride today, and it is rock solid! I'm thrilled! I can't wait to try speed 3! Here's a picture of my work in progress.

Looking good Robocam!!

G.

Sweet deal, I might ask you for the drawing of the plate you made! I might "plagiate" your plate idea for the trike!

The bike is going to be awesome in mode#3.

What else do you have left to do?

G.

 

[le15otl]

Thanks Gman! I got a chance to do a test ride today, and it is rock solid! I'm thrilled! I can't wait to try speed 3! Here's a picture of my work in progress.

Looking good Robocam!!

G.

Robocam i rather like the look of your custom plate and mounting bolts. Is there zero flex in the setup even on hard acceleration?

If you could post some links to the exact parts you used I would be very grateful.
I want a really over-engineered and solid mount for my full sus (can't fix to downtube) and it saves trying out different parts if your setup is exactly that.

 

[Aftonrider]

Hello

My kit arrived and I've been mocking up the install on my redundant atomic zombie delta speed wolf. This is my first build so I'm going to check in now and again to ask for your knowledge on the c-3000 kit. I'm starting off with a stock kit with a 4 chain rings. 48-44-36-24. I can upgrade the critical parts this spring, i.e. Chainring freewheel, drive freewheel, wire connectors and such.

1) my trike is 1-1/2" square tube. I'm going to set the motor down low under the main boom to keep the weight low. I can mount the motor as close or far from the crank. Q: if I mount the motor close to the chain rings and have a shorter chain would that be advantageous? I'm thinking yes but please chime in.

2) the motor will be mounted to the square tube in a simple manner with good quality bolts and steel standoffs. I'm just looking for a strong mechinacial fastening. I'll post some pics when I get that far. The motor can be mounted from 90 degrees to 45degrees to the horizontal boom. Q: is there any advantages to mounting it on an angel verses 90degrees to the boom?

3) I'm building this trike on a budget and don't have the $ to buy the Lipo packs that I want so I'm going to get started with some SLA battries. This will get me on the road for testing. 3 12 volt 18Ah will do the trick for the time being and I can get the lipos this summer as the funds become available. I'd like to charge the battries in the trike and not sure what type of configuration I need to wire. Q: what type of harness would I need to charge three SLA battries at the same time.

Any information to help me get my trike rolling under electric power would be awesome. I'm open to suggestions from all of you and thanks so much for the great thread.


Afton Rider
Dom

 

[gman1971]

Interesting idea of a quad chainrings, you only really need three, but four doesn't hurt, although you might find yourself on the big or small most of the time; and maybe leave the middle for human only?

I'll be doing a square tube install this week as well, so I'll see what I can come up... in the meantime you'll be spearheading the square tube install!


G.

Hello

My kit arrived and I've been mocking up the install on my redundant atomic zombie delta speed wolf. This is my first build so I'm going to check in now and again to ask for your knowledge on the c-3000 kit. I'm starting off with a stock kit with a 4 chain rings. 48-44-36-24. I can upgrade the critical parts this spring, i.e. Chainring freewheel, drive freewheel, wire connectors and such.

1) my trike is 1-1/2" square tube. I'm going to set the motor down low under the main boom to keep the weight low. I can mount the motor as close or far from the crank. Q: if I mount the motor close to the chain rings and have a shorter chain would that be advantageous? I'm thinking yes but please chime in.

2) the motor will be mounted to the square tube in a simple manner with good quality bolts and steel standoffs. I'm just looking for a strong mechinacial fastening. I'll post some pics when I get that far. The motor can be mounted from 90 degrees to 45degrees to the horizontal boom. Q: is there any advantages to mounting it on an angel verses 90degrees to the boom?

3) I'm building this trike on a budget and don't have the $ to buy the Lipo packs that I want so I'm going to get started with some SLA battries. This will get me on the road for testing. 3 12 volt 18Ah will do the trick for the time being and I can get the lipos this summer as the funds become available. I'd like to charge the battries in the trike and not sure what type of configuration I need to wire. Q: what type of harness would I need to charge three SLA battries at the same time.

Any information to help me get my trike rolling under electric power would be awesome. I'm open to suggestions from all of you and thanks so much for the great thread.


Afton Rider
Dom

 

[Aftonrider]

Hi G

I thought you'd say that about the chainring. I was thinking for me with my weak legs the 36 would be great for human power. I have some ideas on the mount for the motor. Strong bolts and some standoffs, possibly a aluminum block with some holes for bolting the whole thing together. Let's see what I can come up with. Ha ha

Thanks for all your guidience through this process Gman.

I'll be back.

Afton Rider


Dom

Edit. Added a photo of my progress.

Interesting idea of a quad chainrings, you only really need three, but four doesn't hurt, although you might find yourself on the big or small most of the time; and maybe leave the middle for human only?

I'll be doing a square tube install this week as well, so I'll see what I can come up... in the meantime you'll be spearheading the square tube install!


G.

Hello

My kit arrived and I've been mocking up the install on my redundant atomic zombie delta speed wolf. This is my first build so I'm going to check in now and again to ask for your knowledge on the c-3000 kit. I'm starting off with a stock kit with a 4 chain rings. 48-44-36-24. I can upgrade the critical parts this spring, i.e. Chainring freewheel, drive freewheel, wire connectors and such.

1) my trike is 1-1/2" square tube. I'm going to set the motor down low under the main boom to keep the weight low. I can mount the motor as close or far from the crank. Q: if I mount the motor close to the chain rings and have a shorter chain would that be advantageous? I'm thinking yes but please chime in.

2) the motor will be mounted to the square tube in a simple manner with good quality bolts and steel standoffs. I'm just looking for a strong mechinacial fastening. I'll post some pics when I get that far. The motor can be mounted from 90 degrees to 45degrees to the horizontal boom. Q: is there any advantages to mounting it on an angel verses 90degrees to the boom?

3) I'm building this trike on a budget and don't have the $ to buy the Lipo packs that I want so I'm going to get started with some SLA battries. This will get me on the road for testing. 3 12 volt 18Ah will do the trick for the time being and I can get the lipos this summer as the funds become available. I'd like to charge the battries in the trike and not sure what type of configuration I need to wire. Q: what type of harness would I need to charge three SLA battries at the same time.

Any information to help me get my trike rolling under electric power would be awesome. I'm open to suggestions from all of you and thanks so much for the great thread.


Afton Rider
Dom

 

[robocam]

Sure! I'll measure it and make a drawing.

I still have to modify my grips to fit with the half throttle. I like the ones I had, so I'm going to chop off an end so that it will fit. I'm also trying to figure out where to put the turn signal switch that I'm using to control the speed modes. All minor stuff.

Sweet deal, I might ask you for the drawing of the plate you made! I might "plagiate" your plate idea for the trike!

The bike is going to be awesome in mode#3.

What else do you have left to do?

G.

 

[gman1971]

Sure! I'll measure it and make a drawing.

I still have to modify my grips to fit with the half throttle. I like the ones I had, so I'm going to chop off an end so that it will fit. I'm also trying to figure out where to put the turn signal switch that I'm using to control the speed modes. All minor stuff.

Sweet deal, I might ask you for the drawing of the plate you made! I might "plagiate" your plate idea for the trike!

The bike is going to be awesome in mode#3.

What else do you have left to do?

G.

Very cool! Can't wait to see videos! this thread is worthless without... VIDEOS!