new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

RageNR,

It they are too tall to mount upright, you can mount them on their side.

Have you looked in the case? There may not be room to mount the cap sideways.

Yes, I know the cap will work in any position as the controller does.

Open the case and measure before you buy if want a clean fit.
 
DingusMcGee said:
Have you looked in the case? There may not be room to mount the cap sideways.

Open the case and measure before you buy if want a clean fit.
I will admit I have not yet. Although, I have seen pictures of others. Who knows, there could be different variations of the stock Cyclone controller floating around out there.
And yes, most deff open your OWN controller and measure before ordering. With all these chinese parts being thrown about, we can't trust that one size will fit all.

We really do need a master thread for the Cyclone kits. Too much information is scattered about. Maybe I will take up the task. That is not a "for sure", I am still thinking it over.
What it will require is for everyone to pitch in what info they have. Tried and proven methods, hard data, and lots of pictures.
Just keeping up with the 1800-3000w kit alone will be difficult.
 
I got a Father’s day present from my wife ($154 Repackage at Target). So I put together probably one of the cheapest Cyclone bike. Even though it comes with brakes, they don’t work at all so I put the original ones of my S. Spearfish. I tried BB7 but there is not room enough because it hits the front wheel spokes. I have changed the stem and handlebar as I’m 5’9’’ and it felt a little big for my taste.

The only thing that I’ve bought is a 7-speed Shimano trigger shifter as the one that came with it was terrible. Now it works very nice. I didn’t change even the chain. I’m running 44/44 chain ring, and I’d like to try 44/48 later. I left the front derailleur as a chain guide.

I’m very happy with it and I think that 27.5 plus hardtails bikes are a very good platform for mid drives and for beginners in MTB. This one is in the heavy side (24.8kg) but is fast enough for me at 38 MPH max (2x Multistar 44.4v 16Ah ). It is an all-around bike that could work as a commuter or trails during the winter.

Unfortunately I haven’t been able to ride too much so I've put just 300 miles in four months on the kit (Three different bikes). So is going to take a while to report about reliability. But for $150 shouldn’t expect too much. I haven’t had a single problem with the kit.

If you are considering this wheel size, a good bike for the kid would be the Charge Cooker. More expensive but in the long run probably will be cheaper. Unless it is stolen.

Chainline with the kit was perfect. It has a 68mm BB and 142mm rear spacing.

Also as I’ve been switching so often of bikes with the same kit, I tried the back pack battery combo and I found one Cameras back pack (Lowerpro Hachback) that fits perfect the Multistars and allows me to carry a Kriptonite Chain Lock that is heavier that the whole bike.
 

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Nice quick build man. Nothing wrong with that. Good speed too.

I am also on the hunt for a good backpack. Really like this one, but apparently that are some issues with the straps fraying rather quickly.
Trying to find some thing of similar form factor for the 20s7p 20Ah pack I plan on building. I would prefer a smaller, tighter fitting backpack to keep it feeling lite.
This one here was $40 @ Target I think...
IMG_20160529_195339110.jpgView attachment 1IMG_20160529_195348991.jpg
 
Dingus,

You're the truest definition of a jerk. Mas tonto y naces candao chaval... engreido.

I guess I should post the "Tangential Edition Motor mount" again, b/c tangential is such a BUZZWORD and that is all Dingus knows, buzzwords.... you're the reason why I don't bother posting here anymore, as it is clear now that all you want is come here and piss on other people's work.

Why does everyone keep feeding the troll?

G.

DingusMcGee said:
lantice13,

people finally able to accept accept the short comings of the stock mounting hardware of this kit and are coming up with the same ideas on upgrading them


NO. You got it wrong. We are not all coming up the same ideas on upgrading them. My modification is significantly different in its anchorings than any others including yours. And it is much much stiffer than yours. Plus I actually went through with an actual design criteria [tangential chain load] and then calculated how much material was need to do the job of restraining the motor. It was not a situation of guess work and make the piece bigger if it fails. About the only thing the same is that I kept the two frame sheets.
 
Juafeli, nice build dude... and Rage, congrats on getting the stuff going too! :) Nice work both of you... I still remember the first email... now look at you guys! Congrats!!! ;)

G.
 
So, to reiterate...

While most of us are all outside enjoying riding our bikes and trikes having fun, some people here seem bent on achieving the "Ultimate Anti Dynamic Load Tangential Edition" Cyclone 3000W motor mount, but the wait is over, I am proud to introduce it here first for the world to see... the Cyclone 3000W "Tangential Edition", with cement rebar and a myriad of new applications. Looks as good as it performs...

Some high impact cement rebar and we solve all these pesky tangential problems, inertial load issues and whatever you can imagine, all in a one single block solution...

13116447_990604251053779_3522886669974506731_o.jpg


13217208_990604221053782_2788076718108961419_o.jpg


13131667_990604214387116_4224142004600454845_o.jpg


And guaranteed to excel even in the toughest applications...

13116034_990604227720448_5906299986800203456_o.jpg



G.
 
L M F A O !! ! ! !!!!

At first, I was not sure what I was looking at. Thought maybe Ernie had dropped his bag of SlimJims in the sidewalk concrete pre-form. LoL
I'd get onto you for picking a fight... but this is too damn funny. :mrgreen:
 
You don't know b/c you're obviously a petulant jerk, a legend in your own mind; coming to this thread with some work that looks like scrap and claiming to be the holy grail of how to do things; then bashing on everyone else who has a better idea or tries to give the slightest word of advice to others, while bashing others to feel "superior", and more-so when your stuff looks like total and utter rubbish. You insulted Lantince13, you called LightningRod's kit a "Crowd sourcing" experiment, then bashed on Mike's (LR) work like it was easy to make, yet while he produced a nice kit from scratch, a kit that looks pretty darn well thought out, you haven't produced anything comparable to that level to even have a contest, oh, and a hacked up half-ass motor mount from a kit that is not even yours doesn't count... then yet you have the balls to call Robocam mod useless? Looks very clean, as opposed to your shit, and well thought out too, along with being fairly strong as well, enough to work for HIS application (and mine). Then the 3D printed motor mount looks like is good, and yet you also bashed it. Also bashed the simple washer mod, which is exactly that, a simple quick upgrade to "slightly" improve the mount... then insulted me too, and threatened me while at it... in real life I would've walked away the moment you bashed on anything, so I didn't have to listen to such nonsense... unfortunately in this forum, the moderators don't seem to care much or they might simply enjoy watching morons like you pissing other people off.

Whatever you say, blah blah, blah... I am building my 4th Cyclone as I type this... so enjoy your tangential edition motor mount.

G.

DingusMcGee said:
I do not know why anyone would go thru all the work of installing the Robocam upgrade when the instalation still uses standoffs [threaded spacers = wobble] rather than thru bolts and the structure entirely relies on the same location of anchoring [the double hinges = wobble] for which such modification cannot be stiffer than the simple gear clamp with the standoffs replaced with thru bolts.

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I have stopped posting or commenting on this thread for the exact same reason Gman, though I blocked Dingus a long time ago so I havent read the latest thing hes bashing.. Its sad that such a good thread gets ruined by such a jerk.

As for my 3d printed mount, after 250km of trail and road testing, its looking really good. No chain drops, nothing broken or bent or looking fatigued. Im going to make some more modifications to it, but I think its turned out nicely. I'll start a new thread on it or post it in my build, no sense in posting here as im sure dingus will find a millon things wrong with it and take all the fun out of it.
 
I have been lurking here awhile and I have just purchased a used Giant DH Comp and I have 144
Sanyo UR 18650F cells. I have soldered up battery packs ( yes, lithium too ,reliably) for over a decade now
so I have the ability and cells to make another. I am planning
on a 14S-10P triangular pack to fit the bike's triangle.
My question to you (experienced) folks here is:
My pack will never really supply more than 2500 watts PEAK ( 1250 watts rated)
Would I be better running a BBSHD hard, or a Cyclone below rated levels?
( 4 extra pounds is not a deal breaker for me but your thoughts and experiences are valuable to me)
Thank you for your time!
Respectfully yours,

Bob K
 
I think the big differences are that Bafang is plug and play and Cyclone can handle more power and for longer period of time.

But for the same reason Cyclone kit can be upgraded more easily. With things like doble chainring, betther controller and more powerful batteries.

Also have in mind that to install the Cyclone you have to modify its mounting brackets as the custom ones are worthless. Robocam user has found a very cheap hardware store solution that has worked for the users of this thread that had followed that route.

Because is rated 3000 that doesn't mean that you can use it with less.

I think that I have less power that the battery that you have in mind and today I was pedaling and pulling between 300 and 1600w in order to check the range of my build.

I thought that it could overheat a those levels but it didn't happen. I did 20mi with 14.2 wh/mi. Pretty surprised with that.

Having say that I haven't tried the Bafang and there are bigger or smaller Cyclone kits than the 3000

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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Bob K said:
I have been lurking here awhile and I have just purchased a used Giant DH Comp and I have 144
Sanyo UR 18650F cells. I have soldered up battery packs ( yes, lithium too ,reliably) for over a decade now
so I have the ability and cells to make another. I am planning
on a 14S-10P triangular pack to fit the bike's triangle.
My question to you (experienced) folks here is:
My pack will never really supply more than 2500 watts PEAK ( 1250 watts rated)
Would I be better running a BBSHD hard, or a Cyclone below rated levels?
( 4 extra pounds is not a deal breaker for me but your thoughts and experiences are valuable to me)
Thank you for your time!
Respectfully yours,

Bob K

Hey Bob, what did you have in mind for running a "BBSHD hard". Using the stock controller, you won't get more than about 1560 watts out of it. Are you planning to modify it and use an external controller? If so, I'm all ears as I want to do that too. If not, the Cyclone at 2500 watts will be a huge step up from the BBSHD. Where the BBSHD has the advantage is it's a cleaner build, it's just about silent, and as others mentioned, it's pretty much plug and play. I have been trying to decide between the two as well. But I think I want something super quiet so I may go the BBSHD route. I'll probably play around to see if I can get it up to 2400 watts or so with an external controller.
 
Gentlemen,
Thank you for your replies.
Fabricating a custom mount is not a problem for me.
I even have some carbon fiber plate stock laying around and maybe I will get inspired :)
I am not sure it will be as stiff as the rebar/concrete mount though... :lol:
As I have not heard a cyclone, I cannot judge its' noise level. I am guessing it is more chain noise
than anything else. ( anyone in San Diego? )
So as I understand it , my battery pack's peak of 2500watts is unusable
with the stock Bafang. That tells me there is a pretty stiff premium in price for the Bafang's
more quiet running AND still being able to utilize my battery to it's fullest extent.
 
Straight from Luna Cycle:

Make sure your controller is capable of handling 72 volts. This battery is 20s which means when at full charge it is at 84 volts. This battery is not compatible with any of our kits except for the Cyclone 3000w.



gman, what do you say to this?


http://lunacycle.com/hot-new/72v-panasonic-pf-11-6ah-with-luna-charger/


Man of Capacitors, washer jobs, blow .... etc.
 
gman eats [his] CROW?

straight from Luna Cycle:

For people who purchase this battery from us and the Cyclone 3000w from us in the past, we will offer a 6 month warranty on the controller if you blow it out with this battery [72v nominal, 84v fully charged].

http://lunacycle.com/hot-new/72v-panasonic-pf-11-6ah-with-luna-charger/
 
Well that kinda proves the point we've been discussing here. Luna is offering to cover the controller for 6 months even though you are running outside of Cyclone's stated specs.
Lets just drop it now. We know the controller is capable of handling 84v ok. The undeniable non-arguable fact is that you are shortening the life of the controller, no matter how you slice it.

We've stated the obvious many times now. Let's move on.
What I would like to see now is research and suggestions of replacement caps, and maybe some photos w/experience reports from owners that have done the mod.
 
RageNR,

What I would like to see now is research and suggestions of replacement caps, and maybe some photos w/experience reports from owners that have done the mod.

It sounds like you don't know research when you see it? Robocam posted a link for some capacitor calculations. I thoroughly read that paper and figured out the the useful equations applicable to our concern. I used the equation for derating capacitors for overvoltage. By the equation using 84v max instead of 80v results in 48% expected life 84v over 80v. This work is research about capacitors. And if they last 4800 hrs at 84v [predicted], which high voltage they may very briefly see, your FAT Ass will get bigger if you sit that much on a ebike seat in the next 2 years. And I will be LMSAO.

Again no one has checked what is the actual voltage the capacitors see. It is kind of like the sheep crying WOLF when no one has seen one.

You have seen some suggestions of replacement caps in a post from Spinningmagnets. Why not go for those he posted? You lazy FAH you can go to Dig-i-key and look them up? You say it is okay if they lay sideways. It may look worse than the washer job.

From my rational point of view chasing down a clean fit capacitor is not worth the time as:

1. I have just under 6 months left on my controllers warranty with Luna.

2. The controller cost $49. I make this much per hour.

3. The capacitor derating equation says I would get 4800 hrs at 84v when used at 84v all the time. The capacitor very briefly sees 84v and battery voltage immediately goes down under use and load.

4. gmans point is stupid and not to the point -- useless like yours. No QUANTITATIVE usefulness whatsoever. "If you overvolt you will shorten the life of the controller" Such a statement is absolutely worthless -- Knowing how much is useful: Remember 4800 hrs at 84v as opposed to 10,000 hrs at 80v.

You guys statements on caps is about as useful as saying your tires will last longer if you ride slow. We all know that kind of BS.

5. The controller rating is obviously 72v nominal and that means about 84v max when the batts are fully charged. No we are not running outside of Cyclone's stated specs. Do you know what nominal means?

6. I can petal the bike if the controller fails.

When will we move on? And to your annal point ---

It will probably be when you no longer get the last post on this topic.
 
gman1971,

So, to reiterate...

Proof: your mind is LAME. You have now resorted to reposting [against Endless rules] your same caricature garbage about me.

Can't you think of something new and original?

You are not much of a worthy opponent to comment any further as there is no factual content in your ranting --- just a little boy crying and posting irrelevant pictures.
 
Wow man, I don't know what to say...
You make a statement, then in the same breath contradict your own point (sometimes with facts). Seriously, I just shook my head as I read your last few posts.
Like we have already determined, higher voltages DO decrease the life of the components. We can beat the dead horse with a stick all night long, but there simply is no candy inside.

No I will not block you. Not speaking of you personally.. but I choose to believe that even the most annoying, aggravating, repulsive people can post good info sometimes.
I will not stoop so low as to launch personal attacks against you or anyone else here. I hold myself to a higher standard than that, and you should too.
This will be the last comment I make about the whole capacitor theory nonsense. Next post I make about it will be highlighting links to valid replacements and/or pictures of the mod.
 
IMG_0636.JPGView attachment 3IMG_0637.JPGView attachment 1IMG_0640.JPGTime for some relevant content.
The title says it. I know wires are hanging etc., just wanted to see if it would work before the pretting up starts. I felt Luna Cycles was good for service if there was an issue so I went right into the build here. I did get that oh no feeling powering it up when all I got was the spark and a blank volt display and nothing from the throttle. I had taken the keys out, found them all good. At 72v, single speed, it goes for sure. Almost to much. I would like to keep it single speed but i'm open to suggestions for gear reccomendations, kept my 16 tooth rear to do the test ride. Thinking I might have to go to the max 20 or 21 tooth in the rear to tame it. That 1/4 turn 1/2 throttle can make for a jolting ride when matched with power and bumps, as the cobblestone rider pointed out previously. I have a chain tensioner to add, brake switches for sure and so much more but it goes... Please comment on the pictures of the batt man screen. I did ride some steep hills but briefly. Ignore the speed, think it was picking up from the motor. Oh there are 18 3d printed parts on the pictured bike, prob more to come.
 
I love the 3D prints, well done. they deserve their own thread.

I would like to keep it single speed but I'm open to suggestions for gear recommendations

For high-power, I'd recommend more teeth over fewer. If your sprockets are 13T/13T...maybe try 20T/20T...with roughly 50% more teeth trying to manage the extra power.
 
DOOD!!! The GIRVIN front fork! Stole my heart bro. They may be far from the best fork in the world, but there really is nothing out there that looks like them. So cool.
My original build was going to be on a 1996 ProFlex Beast. Several reasons that I did not use that bike, but I still have it for the time being.
So, how does it ride?
Skaiwerd said:
 
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