new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

[robocam]

That would be awesome! How much would you charge? Getting rid of the chain tensioner would make life so much easier!

What if someone (me???) designed a two piece adjustable bracket that allowed the motor to slide and adjust chain tension without the need for a tensioner?

 

[tikivic]

Thanks Robo - Not sure what it would cost this early. Once I get my Raptor project finished I'll take a look at this (along with the left side reinforcement). Plus I'll have to find a suitable donor bike for prototyping it. Seems awhile back you tried to get Cyclone to produce some reinforcement brackets but they didn't seemed interested. If I can get this off the ground I would probably send out a few "beta" brackets for people to test out.

 

[DingusMcGee]

tikivic,

I like your initial idea for motor adjustment to snug the chain. The adjustment slots on your mechanical drawing look somewhat longer than needed.

Here is one thought on one way of making the plates in a manner to insure Parallel Transport of the motor shaft with respect to the BB shaft during a chain adjustment session:


One could cut the two OEM mounting plates each in half and put an over lap plate [fish plate] fixed on the BB end and each of these on the inside of the each of the mounting plates BB halves. In so doing the fish plate this way the gap of separation of the cut of each motor bracket plates would be visible and accessible to a feeler gauge for which the same feeler gauge width could be used on both sides to insure parallel transport of the motor shaft. The motor half of the mounting bracket would need some slots in length equal to about 1/2 the distance between chain pins plus one bolt diameter as moving the motor some distance makes for twice that amount in chain length change.

An additional possibility is to have several sets of feeler gauges of 2 for each width and leave these gauges fixed and tightened into the adjustment. Doing the adjustment with stops would likely prevent slippage if the slot bolts when tightened can not hold the gap.

The motor shaft could also move in parallel transport fashion if say a fixed pin was put in each of the motor side plates into the fish plate near the bottom and the assembly would simply be rotated about that pin for chain adjustment while a second bolt high up would hold the slot place of the angle needed. This would make for a less floppy setup than 2 parallel slots. The slots would be arcs


I have some OEM motor plates and may work on the fixed pin at bottom method.

 

[tikivic]

Thanks Dingus, all great ideas. I like the idea of rotation to adjust the chain the best, and I think the whole setup would also require a new "top" mount where you snug the motor up to the downtube, instead of this ridiculous hose clamp it comes with. Right now, on my Raptor project I'm using the sliding mount system, so I'm still assessing the possibility for slippage of the plates under torque. My initial thought on the lengthy slots would be to utilize 4 bolts each side, rather than 2 for additional holding power. All that being said, I haven't installed a Cyclone on a convention bike frame - only on the Raptor which provides a much more robust platform (see pic).

 

[ColdRider]

Allo Every Cyclone Rider

Would one be helpful and post or message me a picture of the connection from the cyclone thumb throttle (the one Luna was sending with the original first cyclone batch) and the controller ,I modded it and should have taken a picture of it b4 .Now I need to know what the original wiring was ,now I am remmoding it again with new connectors cleaning up "The Rats Nest"

To Robocam
Since you have opened the beast gut , you mentioned that the non gear side cover is easy to remove ,The bearing stay on the shaft when you pull the cover ?
How difficult would it be to completely replace the motor cable ,I saw the inner guts pics the small wire would be easy how about the 10-12 awg (Yellow/Green/Blue) ?
The heat insulation hide them connection method and details .

I also have a few tweaks on the bracket planned ,when I get rolling again I will get to it ,throttle is shut/cracked up bike fell over, waiting for replacement.

Is anyone selling 3D printed parts btw?

Thanks

 

[minimum]

To Robocam
Since you have opened the beast gut , you mentioned that the non gear side cover is easy to remove ,The bearing stay on the shaft when you pull the cover ?

I'm not Robocam but I can answer that.
Bearing stays within cover. To remove cover, remove screws holding it and use decent (meaning not carpet-) knife to pry it apart. Have to work around edges, to not warp/jam it.

 

[ColdRider]

Thank you Minimum for that info

Now if I could get the picture or the wiring info on the thumb throttle ,what I know is :

#1 : The thumb throttle has six (6) wire and Red/White/Black are +5v/Signal/Gnd ,those are no issue
#2 : Then there is Yellow/Green/Brown theses are (what I have doughts with) switch On/Off and VBatt for the tree (3) led power display ,They was green+yellow Together and brown on its own making a second connector .
So what connects to this part #2 is where I am lost ,Ignition has to be one of the two ...What connects to (Gr/Y) ? What connects to Brown ?

I don't want to fry stuff connecting VBatt were it should not go That would be bad on a brand new throttle I waited many weeks (BTW Free shipping NEVER AGAIN! its too much wasted time lol ) for =)

Thank you for the assistance

 

[robocam]

Do you need the info for an Oro throttle?

 

[ColdRider]

Last I looked Luna he did not have it anymore on the website ,but it was an option when buying from original cyclone batch
Its not the Oro Throttle,What I have is this wuxing ,as many as I can find they have different wire colors and so i'm not willing to see it puff out white smoke !

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/E-bike-24V-36V-48V-Thumb-Throttle-Twist-Gas-Throttle-Electric-Bike-Scooter-Ebike-/322282427243?var=&hash=item4b0987936b:m:mdRC_QC-dje5x1o3q0w1TCQ

that link if it works will show what throttle I have



EWWW! I have to find out how to shorten those links
YAY!!!
I think I fixed the plastic enough for it to work until I get the replacement this week(Tracking say's this week ,hopefully the custom peeps will also get moving !) so that's all I need to finally take a ride for the 1st time this year

 

[CobraJet]

That link you gave had the wire colors labled.

"DESCRIPTION:
Item name: E-Bike 24V 36V 48V Thumb Throttle Gas Twist Throttle Electric Bike Scooter LED Indicator
Voltage: 24V 36V 48V
Cable Length : 2000mm
Function : One red switch button ( Can be used as the headlight Switch or Power Switch) , Three level battery indicator
6 cables Throttle diagram :
red = + 5 Volt INPUT
black = - 5 Volt INPUT
white = Signal Output (back to the controller to tell it the chosen speed)
green = + 24 Volt or + 36 Volt or + 48 Volt INPUT for the battery level indicator
brown = button
yellow = button"

 

[ColdRider]

That is true but what connects to :
So what connects to this part #2 is where I am lost ,Ignition has to be one of the two ...What connects to (Gr/Y) ? What connects to Brown ?

From the controller side ,using :https://cdn1.bigcommerce.com/server800/9vkjq73s/product_images/uploaded_images/controller.jpg?t=1452142500

I want to be sure what i'm doing ,I am working on a complete rewiring of the controller (I have two,one is ref for the other ) but that is the part that both have been modded ,

Lets just say that when I disassemble it I was bit pissed of about the throttle being broke after the bike fell ,yepp shit happens ,now I think I was very silly about that situation

So any idear ?

Thanks

 

[robocam]

I wonder if gman has the original throttle. Are the wires different colors than those of the Oro throttle? Did you try asking Luna?

 

[niklas_j69]

Not sure if I'm posting in the right place, new to this. However, I've got the Cyclone 3000W running stock controller and 20S8P 72v battery with 50A BMS, have been really happy with this but made a huge newbie mistake and run it quite far on too low rpm's so all of a sudden it died on me during this ride. Have happened before during some trail riding, but then I just let it cool off and it started again. But this time I just hear a very weak "tick" from the controller when twisting the throttle, but the motor is dead. I can still pedal it with no noise nor extra resistance, so it doesn't feel like windings or gears melted or so. Is there any way to troubleshoot/fix this anyone knows of?

//Nick

 

[robocam]

It has no temperature sensor, so if it stopped, you likely killed the motor. I would contact Cyclone, and tell them exactly what happened. They might be able to help you or give you a special price on a new motor.

Also, there's never any additional noise or resistance when pedaling because there is a freewheel on the motor.

Not sure if I'm posting in the right place, new to this. However, I've got the Cyclone 3000W running stock controller and 20S8P 72v battery with 50A BMS, have been really happy with this but made a huge newbie mistake and run it quite far on too low rpm's so all of a sudden it died on me during this ride. Have happened before during some trail riding, but then I just let it cool off and it started again. But this time I just hear a very weak "tick" from the controller when twisting the throttle, but the motor is dead. I can still pedal it with no noise nor extra resistance, so it doesn't feel like windings or gears melted or so. Is there any way to troubleshoot/fix this anyone knows of?

//Nick

 

[sather]

I posted above concerning the use of a 72 volt battery with the Cyclone 3000: "It's a lot of fun on 40 mph street runs on my fat bike but it quickly overheats the motor to 109C (230F) on level ground. "

I managed to burn up a Cyclone 3000 with a 52 volt battery while doing a long steep climb. If you are going to flog the Cyclone, install a temperature sensor and keep it below 110 C.

 

[niklas_j69]

It has no temperature sensor, so if it stopped, you likely killed the motor. I would contact Cyclone, and tell them exactly what happened. They might be able to help you or give you a special price on a new motor.

Also, there's never any additional noise or resistance when pedaling because there is a freewheel on the motor.

Not sure if I'm posting in the right place, new to this. However, I've got the Cyclone 3000W running stock controller and 20S8P 72v battery with 50A BMS, have been really happy with this but made a huge newbie mistake and run it quite far on too low rpm's so all of a sudden it died on me during this ride. Have happened before during some trail riding, but then I just let it cool off and it started again. But this time I just hear a very weak "tick" from the controller when twisting the throttle, but the motor is dead. I can still pedal it with no noise nor extra resistance, so it doesn't feel like windings or gears melted or so. Is there any way to troubleshoot/fix this anyone knows of?

//Nick

Thanks, will contact Cyclone then

//Nick

 

[niklas_j69]

I posted above concerning the use of a 72 volt battery with the Cyclone 3000: "It's a lot of fun on 40 mph street runs on my fat bike but it quickly overheats the motor to 109C (230F) on level ground. "

I managed to burn up a Cyclone 3000 with a 52 volt battery while doing a long steep climb. If you are going to flog the Cyclone, install a temperature sensor and keep it below 110 C.

Will do

Thanks for the info

//Nick

 

[ColdRider]

about a temp sensor in the cyclone
I got me a grin tech motor cable with two extra wire http://www.ebikes.ca/shop/electric-bicycle-parts/wiring-accessories/grinmotorcable.html
for the temp http://www.ebikes.ca/thermistor10k.html to hook up to CA.V3

So I asked earlier how complex can it be to replace the entire cable with this new and longer one ,small wires are no problem .The big (10-12awg) are hidden on the pics ,would those be difficult to replace ?
And the thermistor how should it be set in there ? I thought of sticking it with thermal grease for a good heat transfer and measuring + covered with a drop of epoxy so that it don't take a walk anywhere =) ,how would that sound.
Thank You Robocam
For my throttle wire questions :
Luna has one answer about the cyclone ->ES hehe
I pondered on that looking at the pics available ,the two wire pin Y/G would take VBat and the single brown wire would go back to ignition ,is that making sense ?

Note to self: I need to learn how to get pics in here asap!!

 

[Skaiwerd]

On posting pictures, I think they still need to be 640 x 480 pixels am I correct? Pretty much a no-no for using mobile devices to post pictures. I'd also like to post some pictures of my new and improved ride I've been working on. Unfortunately my 2011 MacBook Pro appears to need a new motherboard so scaling photos is not possible at the moment. Got rid of the straight bars added a Brooks saddle, more comfort. The biggest improvement is a new fork over the older Garvin fork where I crashed twice breaking two of them. Says 512kb max for size, guess I'd be able to get two images on my floppy disc at that size.

 

[robocam]

I don't think there's a resolution limit. I just take my photo into photoshop and drop the jpg quality until the file size is acceptable. Oh, and I resize it so that it looks about the right size for most displays. I wish the server would do that automatically like Facebook. That would save so much time and trouble.

On posting pictures, I think they still need to be 640 x 480 pixels am I correct? Pretty much a no-no for using mobile devices to post pictures. I'd also like to post some pictures of my new and improved ride I've been working on. Unfortunately my 2011 MacBook Pro appears to need a new motherboard so scaling photos is not possible at the moment. Got rid of the straight bars added a Brooks saddle, more comfort. The biggest improvement is a new fork over the older Garvin fork where I crashed twice breaking two of them. Says 512kb max for size, guess I'd be able to get two images on my floppy disc at that size.

 

[Skaiwerd]

Here you go. For iPhone users, and prob others. Email photo to yourself and pick the smallest size setting, then it should work no computer or photoshop required. Batt box needs prettying up. Has qty. 6 6s 16ah multistars, thinking 60 mile range, to be tested...

 

[minimum]

I'll try to post some pics too


Disclaimer: measurements may be (and some definitely are) inaccurate. I did not bother with all small features like internal ribs for covers, rotor etc.
May help someone to get better overview of the motor.

 

[StinkyGoalieGuy]

I'll try to post some pics too


Disclaimer: measurements may be (and some definitely are) inaccurate. I did not bother with all small features like internal ribs for covers, rotor etc.
May help someone to get better overview of the motor.

Wow, thanks for putting those together! That is beautiful. So the external dimensions and bolt hole distances are accurate? In other words, if I 3D print this up, I can use it to design and build better mounting brackets for the cyclone 3000 without needing the motor in hand?

 

[minimum]

Wow, thanks for putting those together! That is beautiful. So the external dimensions and bolt hole distances are accurate? In other words, if I 3D print this up, I can use it to design and build better mounting brackets for the cyclone 3000 without needing the motor in hand?

Should be accurate enough for that.
PS: 4 mounting holes in motor shell are drawn as M5 tapered, so they are smaller in diameter than the rest. Middle cover's motor side measurements are derived and/or inaccurate (didn't have pliers to remove sun gear locking ring and thus didn't take that cover apart). But those shouldn't affect your goal.
PPS: Between different fits/seats, there's 0,15mm clearance. Don't know it it's enough when printing.

 

[nuggets]

Hey guys! This is my first pose over here on the endless sphere...

Thanks for all the info in this thread. I read the whole thing, super helpful.

I've got a cyclone project in progress....

Sort of documented here: https://electricbike.com/forum/forum/builds/custom-builds/28761-super-commuter-gt-hardtail-mtb-cyclone-build

I'm still working on the motor mounting. Here's some pics...

The mount is solid, now the motor just twists the bike frame. What a beast!

I do have a question though. I've modified the controller to support the cycle analyst. I want to enter the right value for the shunt resistance, but my multimeters are not able to measure such low resistance accurately. It might not be too off though, last test claimed a max of 99.89A. My 52V 17AH panasonic GA battery from Luna Cycle is rated for 100A burst...

Does anyone know the resistance of the shunt in the cyclone controller?