progrock said:ebike11, I'm going to be using a single speed mountain bike freewheel with a 26" wheel... not a BMX, but close.
May i ask what brand type of freewheel?
progrock said:ebike11, I'm going to be using a single speed mountain bike freewheel with a 26" wheel... not a BMX, but close.
Thanks for the tip. I'll have to pull my controller back apart and look for that component.minimum said:Usually for these controllers there's to-92 case voltage regulator which is capable of putting out up to 100mA.
It's the stock controller that comes with the Cyclone 3k kit (the 1800-3000w). It's rated for 36-72v 40Amp, but many of us have been running it right at the max, and a little over.progrock said:What's the specs on the SaiKeLong 400?
Hey Mark, did you try unplugging the ignition wire connector at the controller and short the pins together?markz said:Somehow broke my half twist throttle ignition, sensor wire and ground shows 0V.
progrock said:I was just watching the Luna cyclone install video with the "new" mounting bracket. They have washers (I believe they call them spacers in the video, but they def just look like thin washers) that go between the lockrings... since I didn't order from Luna... neither my original kit, or mount kit, came with these spacers. I can't see anything special about them other than that, I'm assuming they are metal (I've found ones that look a tiny bit thicker and serrated on both flat sides, as well as silicon gaskets, and also some flat ones, copper and other metals... should be able to find a thin, smooth steel one, which is what they appear to be). Anyway, my real question is... does anyone know what the point of using these are? are the necessary? (or at least a good idea/not pointless) ... Also, if anyone has these, could you LMK exactly what they are... ID, OD, thickness, etc.
Another thing I am slightly confused about, the bearings in the square taper bottom bracket say 6002RS... but every 6002RS I see has a 15mm ID... but the bottome bracket is 16mm... not sure how that makes sense.
I gotta say, the newer style mounting bracket that actually goes attaches to the motor, without the funky offset spacers, or whatever you call them (the 2 aluminum almost oval shaped pieces with 2 holes in them, used on the original bracket to attach to the motor). Besides it just looking like it'll be more solid, definitely simplifies the instructions quite a bit (not that the original was that hard to figure out... just this is now stupid simple). Definitely glad I ordered it from cyclone (at least until a new custom mount is available... I've heard people say Luna is gonna have one soon, but I have no clue where they got that info from). As I mentioned, I actually could not believe the experience I had dealing with cyclone directly, getting a response to an email 1 min after sending it, at an odd hour on a Sunday... being given a discount on shipping, and having it at my doorstep in under 2 weeks (much closer to 1).... and great communication... all in all, I couldn't believe it, expected the exact opposite, very pleasantly surprised.
BTW, now that I know the controller doesn't have a hard voltage limit, I'm planning to go 24s2p instead of 20s2p now... but gonna keep the 100v capacitors I installed, while just at their limit, I think they should still be able to handle it. And a 24s2p pack with these Sanyo 20700A batteries should be amazing (technically possible for the pack to produce 60A at 100v... even with just 48 cells total.... THO I don't plan to push it that hard, hoping for 3-4kW, not 6kW). I'm also debating on what to make my secondary battery (for longer trips)... either another 24s2p as a backup... or I'm thinking maybe going 24s3p. Probably going to use the same cells... unless I can find a good deal on 3,500mAh (or close, 3,400 would be ok) 18650's (ideally the GA's) for a good price.... so far most prices weren't even as good as the $5 shipped I'm getting these 20700A's at.
progrock said:The higher volts (ie. running 24s instead of 20s) should just allow me to have the power I want, at a lower amperage. Which I was hoping would be better for the batteries, and ideally possibly even better for the controller/motor.