new eZip motor

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By itself, a single pack could be a reasonable "pack for a 24V eaBike.
eZip w/13T mod @ 22.2V = 20mph

Click on picture

I have built and tried multiple 22.2V Li-ion and LiPo packs but they suffered from the controllers proclivity towards reducing throughput as its 21V LVC is neared.

I might have just found a remedy:
Haven't found shipping yet but these 24V controllers boast an 18V LVC ... perfect(?) for a 22.2V pack!
$27.75 + $27.50 shipping = $55.25 to USA
2 - $55.50 + $34 shipping = $89.50 to USA = $44.75 each

Click on picture
http://www.cleanenergy-mall.com/goods.php?id=168
They also produce higher amperage Brush motor controllers eg. 40A.

48V version @ 40A throughputs 2000w+ - $27.75 + shipping

Sadly, they do boast a HVC.
So, 24V controller can't be pushed to 36V etc.
 
DAND214 said:
Anybody have some XT90 conectors to spare :lol: These things are huge, didn't find any on HKs site. Guess I go back to 4mm bullets.

yeah, why did they show up here? Normally yo u guys got all the good stuff :mrgreen:

Dan
Click to expand...
eBay - XT90
 
Ok the 6S 16000mAh battery is exactly what I am looking for. 2 of those to start will be perfect. The charger I would choose would be a simple charger that would charge 2 batteries independently and be able to do so in about 3 hours. It would plug into AC and have the balancer built in. I don't know how many watts It would have to be. I have not seen any at Hobby king but may have missed it.

I have been trying to get my old pedal bike back. I gave it to a friend for helping me move last year as I had the currie and was not using it. He never rode it and its been sitting in some basement and the guy moved and I may never get it back. It was a steel frame and was either 26" or 27". I forgot which. I was going to use it for the front kit. If the forks are steel heavy duty which I think they were it would be perfect.
The chances are about slim to none of getting it back I think. Also there is another problem and that is I don't really have the room for a second bike. I live upstairs and the currie is way too heavy to drag up the stairs. I lock it in the hall downstairs. Another bike will block the door for the people downstairs. Also there is no room upstairs anyway. I will have to run the currie the way it is for awhile. I may not be getting a second bike. I may just put the front wheel kit on the currie in the future and have one fast and reliable bike. There are a few things I have to take into consideration. The old pedal bike I had I put a large basket on it and remember putting about 60 pounds of groceries in it. It handled terrible with all that weight in the back. The currie with those lead batteries handles like a dream with 60 pounds in the back. The pictures I posted will explain why as I mounted two of the batteries up front on the frame and one lower in the triangle behind it.
The weight of the currie is too much for my back though and is a real pain in the ass getting up the 5 steps and into the downstairs hallway. If I eliminate the lead batteries and get a waterproof triangle case the hub motor on the front has some weight it may be enough to stabilize the bike for 60 pounds on the back. The bike would be considerably lighter and may still handle well with weight in the back. The other benefit would be the fact I could change the sprocket either on the MY1020 motor or on the wheel and with DrkAngels formula get between 45 and 50 mph out of it because of the front hub motor. I will listen to reason and stay under 50 mph top speed and wont go much over 30 mph in the city due to the traffic and potholes. With both motors working at the same time going up hills should be easy even with the larger sprocket on the MY1020 motor.
Unfortunately my funds wont allow me to do any of this any time soon. I may however be able to afford an inexpensive triangle case for the currie. The triangle in the currie is kind of small though and may not be able to fit the controller for the front motor and 4 of those batteries. I still have the empty stock currie 24 volt battery case though which can go on the opposite side the motor is on and hopefully fit 2 of those batteries in it. So a triangle case for the currie and plugs for the batteries are all I will be able to afford until I get my SSI settlement next year around April. 4 of those batteries will run about $500 dollars. Plus a charger and possibly a power supply. If I do get the old bike back and could find the room for it I may just get 4 cheap 10Ah lead batteries and a cheap 48 volt charger all for under $100 put the hub motor on it and call it a day.

I am undecided but still want a triangle case for the currie because either way I will be getting rid of the 3 - 22Ah batteries and switching to lipo eventually. Let me know about where I car get a triangle case for the currie. I will take measurements as best as I can with those huge batteries in the way. Thanks latecurtis out.
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/55-Tooth-Rear-Sprocket-25-4-bolt-for-Razor-E300-electric-scooter-/151265673942?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item23382302d6

Here is the new sprocket for the currie next year.

3000 rpm * 11 = 33000 / 55 = 600 * .00128 = .768 * 60 = 46.08 mph.

It might be a couple mph faster or slower. don't know. It will get 44.4 volts of lipo instead of 48. but with the rear wheel spinning at the same time it could go either way. What I do know is I will definitely surprise the hell out of more than a few gas powered motorcycles and cars from 0 to 40 mph because with two motors it should be really quick.

It will be easier to change the rear wheel sprocket from 80 tooth to 55 tooth as I wont need to unhook the motor. I could go with a 50 tooth but wont. It should be a dream come true on hills with two motors working. All wheel drive. Yea I'm dreaming again but someday they will come true.
 
My friend Douge who took the video and photos with his smartphone is into BMX and racing mountain bikes will be able to hook me up with a really high pedel sprocket for a manual overdrive gear to exceed 50 mph for short periods of time so this will be a 40+ mph with 50+ peak speed burst upgrade that will run great uphills. imagine that.
 
With judicious throttle use, the eZip, and most any eBike, will walk itself right up most any staircase.
 
latecurtis said:
My friend Douge who took the video and photos with his smartphone is into BMX and racing mountain bikes will be able to hook me up with a really high pedel sprocket for a manual overdrive gear to exceed 50 mph for short periods of time so this will be a 40+ mph with 50+ peak speed burst upgrade that will run great uphills. imagine that.
Click to expand...


At 30mph, substantial pedal assist might add 2.5mph.

See - Motor Output Watts for Mph

file.php


Front hub likely tops out near 23mph (44.4V).
MY1020@ 44.4V might hit 26mph.
Both together might hit 26mph, speed is duplicative not cumulative.

Gearing My1020 for higher speed will maintain or lose from present top speed, and definitely weaken low end performance!
(Might hit 28-29mph with slightly higher gear @ 44.4V)
 
Thanks for bringing me back to reality DrkAngel. I realize I get a little out there sometimes. I wont be using both motors on one bike as the only advantage in it would be going up very steep hills.

I have been checking out the batteries. I like the one you posted but the price is not right. I would need 2 and it would be $250 just to switch 1 motor over to lipo. I am comparing 4s to 3s bricks. The reason for it is so I can get the right voltage for both motors I have. The MY1020 motor and the front hub motor Sunder sent me. Here is what I have come up with. 4s = 14.8 * 3 = 44.4 volts. too low. 14.8 * 4 = 59.2 volts. too high? 3s = 11.1 * 5 = 55.5 volts. too high or not?

3s = $22.90 each = $114 for 5 bricks 4s = $24.85 each = $99.4 for 4 bricks The 4s is the better deal but I want at least 48 volts, not 44.4. 59.2 is really high. 55.5 is also high. Either way I would need a 60 volt controller right? If I went with 44.4 a 48 volt controller would work right?

Can I run 59.2 volts with both motors if I use the cooling fan I have on the MY1020 motor. That would be my first choice.

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__16374__HobbyKing_8482_ECO_4_x_6S_Lithium_Polymer_Multi_Charger.html

This would be my first choice in chargers. This would require a power supply. Both bikes will be needing a waterproof hard plastic triangle case to house the 4s bricks and 60 volt controllers. It will require a lock. Also I will require plugs that are very durable as they will be plugged and unplugged every time I charge them. I will be able to bring them in the library to charge them or upstairs at home. I believe the charger can be set to 14.8 for each individual brick.

I will be able to get 4 extra batteries every time I get an SSI check once I start getting them them so I will always have back ups with me fully charged. Please let me know if The two motors I have will operate at 59.2 volts and with 60 volt controllers. Also what range will I have with 4 - 4s bricks @59.2
volts Turnigy 5000mAh 4S1P 14.8v 20C hardcase pack. if I average 15Mph and don't go up hills. The total weight will be about 45 pounds less with the lipo. say about 325 pounds total weight with the currie and 300 pounds with the lighter bike with the hub motor hopefully.
 
latecurtis said:
I have been checking out the batteries. I like the one you posted but the price is not right. I would need 2 and it would be $250 just to switch 1 motor over to lipo. I am comparing 4s to 3s bricks. The reason for it is so I can get the right voltage for both motors I have. The MY1020 motor and the front hub motor Sunder sent me. Here is what I have come up with. 4s = 14.8 * 3 = 44.4 volts. too low. 14.8 * 4 = 59.2 volts. too high? 3s = 11.1 * 5 = 55.5 volts. too high or not?
Click to expand...

The voltage you listed is nominal voltage, but your controller will be damaged by your fully charged voltage.

12S Hot off the charger = 50.4 volts
16S Hot off the charger = 67.2 volts
15S Hot off the charger = 63.0 volts

A 48 volt lead acid hot off the charger = 55.2v, so the controller needs to be tolerant of at least 56v. More likely, they would have used 60v parts to give a bit of leeway. (No guarantee of that).

So 14S is the highest I would risk - no easy way to build that out of the sizes you quoted.
 
Check with original listing or manufacturer to determine your controllers possible voltage range!

Your Yi-Yun YK31C 36V controller uses 50V caps.
So your present controller would work @ 12s if charged to only, my recommended, 4.10V.

Similar Yi-Yun 48V controller has 63V caps so would work at up to 15s max, limited lifespan(?).
(4.10/cell charge voltage would greatly increase lifespan of controller and battery.)
 
Controller basics

Voltage limits
High V - The high voltage limit of controllers is indicated by the cap, (capacitor), voltage value. Beyond this voltage the cap will fail, near this voltage will reduce lifespan.
Some do utilize a HVC (High Voltage Cutoff), beyond this voltage the controller will not function.
Low V - Most controllers also incorporate a LVC (Low voltage Cutoff), this is to protect the battery from excessive discharge.
On "better" controllers, the cutoff is gradual and progressive, restricting throughput as LVC neared.
eg My 22.2V battery performs poorly with a 24V controller with 21V cutoff.
The trick is to find the proper controller for your voltage range ...
Or the proper battery voltage for your controller.

48V controllers, typically, use 63V caps and should be limited below this voltage.
Lowest value caps is generally the limiting factor.

Finding a multi-compatible controller greatly simplifies choices but requires manual battery voltage monitoring.
eg Yi-Yun 24V controller, w/50V caps, works nicely with 24V, 25.9V, 33.3V, 36V ... ? battery packs.
I also purchased the 36V version and , hopefully, should support 36V, 44.4V, 48V ... ? (Haven't opened to check caps yet)

Amps required?
Motors will accept massive amps at low rpm. As verified by a "lock test" - very not recommended!
The more amps = the better acceleration at low speeds.
However, at low speeds, most of the extra amps are wasted as damaging heat!
The trick is to balance performance vs efficiency.
See - Efficiency?
Sorry, not allowed to post graphs here
Important tho is to supply sufficient amps to allow full rated watt output.
Typically the highest output occurs at the 50% efficiency break point.
1000w motor output requiring 2000w input. eg 48V 40A for 48V 1000w motor.
See - eBike.ca/simulator graph
As shown, greatly reducing amps, from maximum possible, does not restrict full watt output or top speed.

Certain performance specific motors are rated at amps that limit watt output till much higher rpm.
Typical use would be RC airplanes where the most watt output is required only at high rpms.
Amps are restricted to prevent meltdown due to thin "windings".
 
dnmun said:
please do not take lipo pouches into a library to charge them. all of the 36v controllers use 63V input caps so 15S of fully charged lipo will work on it.
Click to expand...
I think Drkangel is refering to "brushed" controllers.

I have a couple 36v (brushless) controllers that will not run on 48v. And the same a 24v won't run on 36v. very few out there now tho.

Dan
 
I will get this for the hub motor.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/72V-1500W-brushless-controller-for-E-bike-scooter-/261492063944?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3ce2243ec8

Will this be enough watts for the MY1020 motor at 59.2 volts nominal ? 60+ fresh off the charge? It says on the motor 1000 watts at 48 volts.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/24-60V-500-1000W-Motor-Brush-Brushed-Controller-for-E-Bike-Electric-Scooter-/251407727988?pt=Other_Vehicle_Parts&hash=item3a89117d74&vxp=mtr

I just posted a long message nd it never went up. spent 20 minutes typing it so I will be posting shorter posts and more of them I guess.
 
This one for the hub motor I made a mistake.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/60V-1500W-Electric-Bicycle-Brushless-Speed-Motor-Controller-For-E-bike-Scooter-/181128591528?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a2c1af8a8

Also I could use some more formulas DrkAngel so I can start answering my own questions. Like how far will a bike with a total weight of 325 go with 4- 4s bricks in series at 59.2 volts.

Also I would like to do some graphs comparing motors. I will return to college to finish my degree in electrical technology and want to open an ebike and electric scooter shop someday. I am looking at finishing school in about two years. 2018 to 2020 I hope to be doing something like a shop. I will need at least one or two partners as it is not cheap to start a business. DrkAngel , you live in NY right? Sunder I know you live very far away right now. but It will be awhile before it happens so that could change.
 
I see what you are saying about the voltage fresh off the charger. I am still using the car battery trickle charger and notice a slight performance increase that only lasts a little while fresh off the charger. about 21 or 22 mph and then it settles in around 18 to 20 mph. I have a speedometer and will have the bike shop install it for 5 bucks to make shure it is accurate.

I would like to brush up on my math skills and start doing graphs on the performance of electric motors for learning purposes. I want to do one on the 1500 watt motor I posted earlier and the 11.5 kilowatt minimum motor and that high output hub motor that DrkAngel posted a page or two ago. Electrical technology is my major and I will be studing DC motors. Please send me some formulas and let me know what software you use for the graphs. I remember vaguely doing a few graphs at the college about 10 years ago. I have some brushing up to do on my skills before re entering college. This is a good place to start.
Thanks Latecurtis out.
 
Weight is a minimal factor for range.
Unless you are doing a lot of hills etc.
In which case, you need weight, gradient, distance, speed etc. as factors.

ebike.ca/simulator could give you some idea ...

Have a phone etc. w/GPS - http://www.ebikes.ca/tools/trip-analyzer.html?SID=88b498ca935eae5bb5bd46a909792c0d
 
I just got out of the hospital yesterday for a leaky heart valve got to go get blood pressure medicine. Just for the hell of it I would like to see this motor on a graph with a max load of 325 pounds and at 24 volts 36 volts and 72 volts.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motenergy-ME1003-PMDC-Motor-12-72V-15-4hp-cont-30-8hp-pk-/251635906956?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a96ab398c

Somebody finally posted on my 10 kilowatt plus post. lol you can post it on that one or this one or both. come on just for the hell of it DrkAngel. what will it hurt. I probably wont live long enough to see it anyway. I got to get my heart monitored every two weeks and may need surgery in the future. I have a good friend who already had surgery for the same problem. He used to have a 750 cc motorcycle and did 135 mph on it. He doesn't do much of anything anymore except drink beer and watch resident evil movies over again a million times. lol
 
I mean I may not live to see the motor on my currie not the post so please post it. I would like to see the maximum speed in mph. not kph. Thanks.

That 1500 watt motor I posted earlier is also interesting but not as interesting as that. Also was that high output hub motor you posted for an electric motorcycle or would it work on an e bike. Is it faster than the Motenergy motor?
 
Im a speed demon in my mind maby I can come back as a futuristic version of Evel Knievel. lol
 
I got a response from Liveforphysics on my 10 kilowatt post. and the name inspired me to post a little more about myself and my believes. Here it is like it or not. I hope at least some ES members like it.

liveforphysics

Thank you for that post. I would like to see a video of your bike doing the quarter mile. The planet earth needs more people who think like you when it comes to fossil fuel. If I had the power I would make all gas powered vehicles totally illegal to manufacture or buy. And within 10 years illegal to drive on the road. All the big rich oil company's could still make plenty of money building factories that replace internal combustion engines to DC electric motors.

Also I would build huge domes big enough to put in a quarter mile race track. one in each state which would be totally enclosed for any gas powered sport event. You would be allowed to drag race run monster trucks or anything gas powered because the air would be filtered thru machines as to not pollute the environment. The deserts would have windmills 1000 feet high or more and solar panels would be spaced out thru the entire desert but not too many in one area to avoid streamers ( birds which catch on fire flying over large areas filled with solar panels). The windmills could have many solar panels on the sides of them.
All skyscrapers and large buildings would be self sufficient and not rely on outside power. Factories which pollute the environment would also employ large air filtration machines for 0 or close to 0 emissions of carbon and other pollutions. The manufacturing of all of this should be enough to stimulate world economy for the next half a century.
I love physics also but had to drop out of physics 1 as my wife got hit by a car and I was working full time and had to pass material science technology and algebra 2 with trig. I had too much on my plate and as I loved the class it was not an easy subject. However I plan on returning to college to finish my associated degree once my disability checks kick in and I am able to straighten out my student loans. I look forward to taking physics again.
My interests include particle physics, quantum physics including the development of the quantum computer, bio computer, nanotechnology, advanced robotics, radical life extension including The Total body transplant. I support stem cell research obviously and have an utter distain for any and all religious groups who dare oppose any scientific research and development. I trolley believe that the human race can conquer its own mortality as well as curing all disease and end world hunger, poverty and suffering.
I even believe that animal suffering can be eliminated also. Instead of slaughter houses to process meat there will be factories which grow meat. They will be able to grow an entire animal such as a cow or pig minus the brain and neural systems. The total body transplant would work the same way. An identical clone of you would be grown to an age of 16 or 17 when the cranium reaches adult size. There would be no brain therefore no conciseness but all the arteries and spinal cord nerve hook ups would be intact in the case of a human and the 50 or 60 year old brain would be transplanted somehow by a very complex laser surgery. All brain disease's and disorders would be eliminated and damaged tissue in the human body could be repaired on a molecular level by tiny nanobots.
Immortality would then be achieved thru science and technology. The world would then be a better place to live but far from paradise. As long as there are religious groups out there there will be terrorism. The radical Islamic groups and 911 are a prime example. Other non radical groups such as some Christian groups oppose Science and technology as well as life extension and refuse to embrace human evolution. They could eventually rise up and become radical and then would become a threat to human immortality. I have never talked to anyone who has died and actually went to heaven or hell and came back. Nor have I ever seen a ghost and don't believe in metaphysical things such as ghosts and spirits I think its utter nonsense like cryogenics. There is no way you can freeze someone and bring them back. Its a big fairy tale just like religion. I have an 160 IQ. My mother told me so and she don't lie.

Thanks Latecurtis out.
 
I could go on from there and discuss how humans could then evolve on a macro scale and eventually populate other planets and eventually the universe. Also contemplate humanities total existence in the cosmos in relation to end of the universe theory.(opposite of the big bang theory) or how the universe will end.
Dark energy, Dark matter. Parallel universes and the multiverse theory. The M theory. The superstring theories as well as superposition theory.
I don't believe however we will find anything out useful by spinning particles around in a circle and smashing them together. I put those colliders in the same useless classification as cryogenics. However electrical technology and electric powered vehicles should be able to at least roll us out of the dark ages.

Sincerely Latecurtis out.
 
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