DrkAngel
1 GW
latecurtis said:
Ouch!
You make it sound like you intend on always sucking at soldering?
new eZip motor
- Thread starter latecurtis
- Start date
- Status
Ouch!
You make it sound like you intend on always sucking at soldering?
DrkAngel
1 GW
latecurtis
100 MW
View attachment 7
As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns. What is #35 chain?
I did not get to Advanced auto to get the shrink tubes tonight but did after several attempts and several hours get the red bike running a lot better. As the pictures show we are really close to 100% as far as the sprockets lining up. It took awhile but I solved the mystery as to why the chain popped off at least twice tonight. Sometimes something obvious can go unnoticed.
The way I carved out the wood part was not a 100% fit. It was a little sloppy and when tightening up the chain the sprocket side of the motor would drop about 1/4" at least. Not only that but under load it would drop and pop off the chain. To keep it from happening I found a small bolt which fit in one of the motor mounting holes and attached the metal bracket but there was nothing to attach the top to so I made a custom brace with zip ties and gorilla tape. Two points of contact. One of the bolts coming out of the two by four and the handlebar. Also a piece of metal as a shim helped to line the sprockets up.
One of the things I really like about this build is changing the front tire is easy as all I need to do is loosen up the front two bolts with an Allen key until the handelbars move forward to release the chain and when tightening the chain once it is back on is accomplished with a long 2 by 4. A metal bar would work better but the 2 by 4 will do the trick.
I took it for a ride around the block and even though the wheel sprocket is not perfect and the wheel needs to be trued it should be good for about 15 mph now and make it up hills that are not too steep. Time will be the true test however and I plan on riding it close to home for awhile before going to Wall-Mart or downtown.
Also I was really glad I listened to DA as it was dark and I hooked up the wires backwards to the controller. If it were not for the 40 A slow blow fuse I would have another burnt controller. I still have two left. I will order more now that I see how good they work.
I was also thinking about chain and was wondering if #35 chain is the same as #25 chain but a little wider? I am researching it now. I hope so. If not do they make a wider chain for #25 sprockets? This question relates to what I discussed a few posts ago about the spoke sprockets. Running #415 chain on a #410 sprocket enables a margin for error which is good if a wheel needs to be trued or the sprockets don't line up 100%. Please let me know. Thanks.
LC. out.
Attachments
latecurtis
100 MW
View attachment 1
The pitch is different. 1/4" for the #25 and 3/8" for #35.
I applied a little more JB weld between the teeth. I waited the full 72 hours first though. It probably wont make any difference but what the hell. If the red bike holds up maybe I will put the 9 tooth on the 24" bike for 29mph gearing instead of 36mph with the 11 tooth.
If I go that route I still have the 60T spoke sprocket and mounting kit coming in that I ordered.
The question is what do I plan on doing with it? I am not really sure however I do know that whatever motor I do decide to hook it up to will be capable of 50mph minimum.
:lol: Thanks.
LC. out.
The pitch is different. 1/4" for the #25 and 3/8" for #35.
I applied a little more JB weld between the teeth. I waited the full 72 hours first though. It probably wont make any difference but what the hell. If the red bike holds up maybe I will put the 9 tooth on the 24" bike for 29mph gearing instead of 36mph with the 11 tooth.
If I go that route I still have the 60T spoke sprocket and mounting kit coming in that I ordered.
The question is what do I plan on doing with it? I am not really sure however I do know that whatever motor I do decide to hook it up to will be capable of 50mph minimum.
:lol: Thanks.LC. out.
DAND214
10 MW
LC wrote:
The question is what do I plan on doing with it? I am not really sure however I do know that whatever motor I do decide to hook it up to will be capable of 50mph minimum.
LC. out.
I just can't wait, 50mph. That's gonna be the final nail in the coffin! You are really nuts, aren't you? I don't wanna go 40mph on a good full suspension 26" bike.
Dan
DrkAngel
1 GW
Before going to the effort and cost of building a 50mph capable eBike ...
I advise you to test your proposed donor bike.
20"er
Add ~125lb of cement blocks, to simulate additional weight of necessary motor and batteries.
(Approximately 400lb total weight on a bike designed for a max 100lb 8-12 year old @ 10-15mph)
26"er
Add ~125lb of cement blocks, to simulate additional weight of necessary motor and batteries.
(Approximately 425lb total weight on a bike designed for a 220lb(?) adult @ 15-20mph)
Take to the top of steepest hill you can find ...
Hop on and shove off!
Use of speedometer needed to confirm speed!
If you survive 1st descent ... have "friend":
throw raisins at you as you pass (to simulate insect strikes to face and hands, at 2nd 50mph descent)
throw handfull of dirt-dust at you (to simulate dirt and stones kicked up by other vehicles, at 3rd 50mph descent)
smash bottles in front of you (so you can test brakes and or tire blow outs, at 4th 50mph descent)
throw 2x4 chunks of wood in front of you (to simulate durability of bike components when hitting unexpected potholes or similar debris at 50mph)
At 10mph you have 5 seconds to prepare for 15 feet ahead
At 50mph you have 5 seconds to prepare for 75 feet ahead ... but better be planning for 150-300 feet ahead!
I advise you to test your proposed donor bike.
20"er
Add ~125lb of cement blocks, to simulate additional weight of necessary motor and batteries.
(Approximately 400lb total weight on a bike designed for a max 100lb 8-12 year old @ 10-15mph)
26"er
Add ~125lb of cement blocks, to simulate additional weight of necessary motor and batteries.
(Approximately 425lb total weight on a bike designed for a 220lb(?) adult @ 15-20mph)
Take to the top of steepest hill you can find ...
Hop on and shove off!
Use of speedometer needed to confirm speed!
If you survive 1st descent ... have "friend":
throw raisins at you as you pass (to simulate insect strikes to face and hands, at 2nd 50mph descent)
throw handfull of dirt-dust at you (to simulate dirt and stones kicked up by other vehicles, at 3rd 50mph descent)
smash bottles in front of you (so you can test brakes and or tire blow outs, at 4th 50mph descent)
throw 2x4 chunks of wood in front of you (to simulate durability of bike components when hitting unexpected potholes or similar debris at 50mph)
At 10mph you have 5 seconds to prepare for 15 feet ahead
At 50mph you have 5 seconds to prepare for 75 feet ahead ... but better be planning for 150-300 feet ahead!
still cannot fathom why you guys keep beating a dead horse. sometimes better to wash hands and walk away. I work in a middle school and some of these kids would not waste their time on something this inane. or maybe a better term would be insane. good day and good luck.
latecurtis
100 MW
View attachment 80907.bmpView attachment A28_400_N.bmpView attachment 2
http://www.kingssalesandservice.com/
I located everything but the controller for the build.
The bike is less than 30lbs. Top of the line Cantilever brakes. The wheels spin perfect. nothing needs to be trued or adjusted. maybe a little oil as the brakes squeak a little but stop on a dime.
The AmpFlow motor is lighter than the 500W Unite motor that is on the red bike and the 20.0 Lipos will only add a few pounds. Also by the time I can afford to fund this project I should be about 40lbs lighter also.
As far as insects ok. You got a point. A bug in the eye at 50mph would not be good. I will wear some eye protection. Most certainly a crash helmet will be on my head. As far as road conditions, It will be on a flat smooth road where I can see about a mile ahead with no traffic or hazards.
However where I intend on doing this critters are at the top of the hazard list. Rabbits are at the very top. Deer and other larger critters are possible also. A full crash suite may be needed. :lol: I never said I was going to ignore or not wear safety equipment.
Where my brother Jeremy lives the roads are long and smooth with intersecting roads sometimes miles apart. There are many Amish people with horses and carriages. I would love to see their faces when I blow past them at about 45mph. :lol: :lol: I plan on getting a rear mounted camera just for the occasion.
It is my dream. I may choose a better quality bike more durable but 24" is as large as I plan on going as I will need a 78T custom sprocket from Kings sales posted above. It will cost around $100 with shipping just for that so obviously this wont be happening any time soon.
There are tons of videos on you-tube of 50+ mph bikes. It is not uncommon today. I really don't see your point. obviously I am not the only one who wants a really fast e bike. Since if I live long enough and my mind is made up on building a 50mph bike I would like to know if the Magna is a strong enough frame or should I be looking at a 24" Haro or Cannondale.
With reasonable safety factors taken into consideration where these bikes are operated and the durability, construction and capability of the bike as well as the drivers skill all play a factor in a safe ride or a tragic mishap.
Thanks for posting.
LC. out.
http://www.kingssalesandservice.com/
I located everything but the controller for the build.
The bike is less than 30lbs. Top of the line Cantilever brakes. The wheels spin perfect. nothing needs to be trued or adjusted. maybe a little oil as the brakes squeak a little but stop on a dime.
The AmpFlow motor is lighter than the 500W Unite motor that is on the red bike and the 20.0 Lipos will only add a few pounds. Also by the time I can afford to fund this project I should be about 40lbs lighter also.
As far as insects ok. You got a point. A bug in the eye at 50mph would not be good. I will wear some eye protection. Most certainly a crash helmet will be on my head. As far as road conditions, It will be on a flat smooth road where I can see about a mile ahead with no traffic or hazards.
However where I intend on doing this critters are at the top of the hazard list. Rabbits are at the very top. Deer and other larger critters are possible also. A full crash suite may be needed. :lol: I never said I was going to ignore or not wear safety equipment.
Where my brother Jeremy lives the roads are long and smooth with intersecting roads sometimes miles apart. There are many Amish people with horses and carriages. I would love to see their faces when I blow past them at about 45mph. :lol: :lol: I plan on getting a rear mounted camera just for the occasion.
It is my dream. I may choose a better quality bike more durable but 24" is as large as I plan on going as I will need a 78T custom sprocket from Kings sales posted above. It will cost around $100 with shipping just for that so obviously this wont be happening any time soon.
There are tons of videos on you-tube of 50+ mph bikes. It is not uncommon today. I really don't see your point. obviously I am not the only one who wants a really fast e bike. Since if I live long enough and my mind is made up on building a 50mph bike I would like to know if the Magna is a strong enough frame or should I be looking at a 24" Haro or Cannondale.
With reasonable safety factors taken into consideration where these bikes are operated and the durability, construction and capability of the bike as well as the drivers skill all play a factor in a safe ride or a tragic mishap.
Thanks for posting.LC. out.
latecurtis
100 MW
As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns. Too much money!
I thought about it walking to Wall-Mart and the Ampflow motor alone will cost $400. The Lipos $300. At least 100 for a controller.
I wont be putting the 9T sprocket on the 24" bike.
However I am not giving up on going fast. 40mph looks achievable with the current 24" build. It is geared for 36 mph now. The front has the same handlebars as the red bike. A second 48V 1,000W Unite motor will go there with a 60T spoke sprocket and 11T motor sprocket gearing it for 40mph with the 24" wheel.
I have not totally given up on the Ampflow motor and 50mph but don't want to spend that kind of money this year. Also once I go 40mph I may not want to go any faster.
$80 for the motor and I will run both motors off the new Lipo packs. I will need a 2 killowatt brushed controller. Any idea where to get one. Please post a link if possible. Thanks.
LC. out.
I thought about it walking to Wall-Mart and the Ampflow motor alone will cost $400. The Lipos $300. At least 100 for a controller.
I wont be putting the 9T sprocket on the 24" bike.
However I am not giving up on going fast. 40mph looks achievable with the current 24" build. It is geared for 36 mph now. The front has the same handlebars as the red bike. A second 48V 1,000W Unite motor will go there with a 60T spoke sprocket and 11T motor sprocket gearing it for 40mph with the 24" wheel.
I have not totally given up on the Ampflow motor and 50mph but don't want to spend that kind of money this year. Also once I go 40mph I may not want to go any faster.
$80 for the motor and I will run both motors off the new Lipo packs. I will need a 2 killowatt brushed controller. Any idea where to get one. Please post a link if possible. Thanks.
LC. out.
Sunder
10 MW
If all you're after is to get to 50mph the fastest way possible, then a dual motor direct drive run at very high voltages will get you there (relatively) cheap.
Being dual motor and high voltage, the current to each motor should be reasonable, and lower the cost of controllers.
Also, the weight distribution will be better, and spreading the torque over two forks will be safer than spreading it over one only.
You need about 5kw to get 50mph, depending on your weight and position. Trying to put that through a chain is just insanity and asking for trouble. (As if 50mph isn't trouble enough).
Being dual motor and high voltage, the current to each motor should be reasonable, and lower the cost of controllers.
Also, the weight distribution will be better, and spreading the torque over two forks will be safer than spreading it over one only.
You need about 5kw to get 50mph, depending on your weight and position. Trying to put that through a chain is just insanity and asking for trouble. (As if 50mph isn't trouble enough).
DrkAngel
1 GW
LC ...
Did you ever get your new Lipo cells balanced?
Better test them, to make sure they're usable.
Both packs having a cell way out of whack is a pretty bad sign!
Did you ever get your new Lipo cells balanced?
Better test them, to make sure they're usable.
Both packs having a cell way out of whack is a pretty bad sign!
DAND214
10 MW
what DA is trying to say is. BALANCE THEM. Not the 4.10v per cell but the 4.20 per cell. I always test my cells before using them and after a dozen or so cycles. The new packs you bought had some way out cells.DrkAngel said:
I would balance them and discharge them to see if the low cells are just low charged or are just low capacity.
Yes, this is a hobby for most of us but we still like what we build to be RELIABLE. Being able to jump on my bike and go to a store and not to worry if I will make it back.
DA and others here have tried to tell you, that you are too big for any bike smaller than a 26" bike. getting the seat high enough to be able to pedal without standing up on the pedals. Pedaling is good for your health. Heart, and your bum knees.
Save the $800 you talk about for the 50mph DEATH TRAP and get a small geared hub and build a 26" grocery getter not a useless piece of junk!
Sorry buddy but that's how I feel about the wasted builds.
Dan
DrkAngel
1 GW
Charge all cells to a balanced (equal) ~4.20V
iMax " LiPo Balance" is typically 4.17V.
Confirm all cells equal!
Let set several days to diagnose for self discharge. (Cell or cells with decreased voltage)
"Discharge" pack, with iMax or any other device - recommend cell level voltage-alarm device @ < $2.
Compare cell level voltages for comparative capacity.
Any unequal capacity pack or pack with self-discharge should be returned to manufacturer for replacement!
"Self discharge" indicates a bad cell with no fix except replacement.
Poor capacity cell can be "helped" by adding a small cell in parallel.
Pack capacity is only as good as weakest cell.
iMax " LiPo Balance" is typically 4.17V.
Confirm all cells equal!
Let set several days to diagnose for self discharge. (Cell or cells with decreased voltage)
"Discharge" pack, with iMax or any other device - recommend cell level voltage-alarm device @ < $2.
Compare cell level voltages for comparative capacity.
Any unequal capacity pack or pack with self-discharge should be returned to manufacturer for replacement!
"Self discharge" indicates a bad cell with no fix except replacement.
Poor capacity cell can be "helped" by adding a small cell in parallel.
Pack capacity is only as good as weakest cell.
latecurtis
100 MW
I finally sold the Magna. Erics son Nikki needed it to go to do community service. He is a good kid so it is in good hands. I paid $20 for it and only rode it a few times so I sold it for $20. Eric is paying me tomorrow when he gets his taxes.
I got to solder the bullets on to the other pack. I have been busy with other things. The 60T spoke sprocket showed up today. I am still waiting on the mounting kit. Also I will need #415 chain when I decide to use it. I may not put a second motor on the 24" bike and put the 9 tooth on it instead. I need a cargo bike and since there is a motor on the back I can put a basket on the front and rear and mount the small cash box to the triangle rack with the new Lipos.
I have not given up on a fast bike though. When I go to see Doug I will find out if he still has that Haro Mira. I will find a heavy duty BMX frame. The kind of bikes made for doing flips and tricks. Those are heavy duty reinforced frames. They are built for heavy stress as those guys put serious strain on all the components. They do flips and vertical drops 10 or more feet.
I will make sure the wheels are made for BMX abuse also so they will hold up. The plan is a sturdy factory rear rack for a rear motor and a second motor for the front handlebars. the motors will be 1,000W 48V Unite motors hooked to three 6s 10.0 minimum LIPO packs in series for 66.6V. I am not sure what controller I will need but probably a 3 kilowatt brushed and if it is 60V It will need to have 74V caps or higher but not lower. 4.1 * 18 = 73.8V. If it is a 72V controller then the cutoff cant be above 64V. 3.6 * 18 = 64.8V.
I have some time to put this together so there is no rush. Top speed should be around 40mph. Hopefully I will get the new Lipos balanced this week and the red bike going with the six SLAs in the back for 24V@30Ah. If so I will do a video going downtown and back. Thanks.
LC. out.
I got to solder the bullets on to the other pack. I have been busy with other things. The 60T spoke sprocket showed up today. I am still waiting on the mounting kit. Also I will need #415 chain when I decide to use it. I may not put a second motor on the 24" bike and put the 9 tooth on it instead. I need a cargo bike and since there is a motor on the back I can put a basket on the front and rear and mount the small cash box to the triangle rack with the new Lipos.
I have not given up on a fast bike though. When I go to see Doug I will find out if he still has that Haro Mira. I will find a heavy duty BMX frame. The kind of bikes made for doing flips and tricks. Those are heavy duty reinforced frames. They are built for heavy stress as those guys put serious strain on all the components. They do flips and vertical drops 10 or more feet.
I will make sure the wheels are made for BMX abuse also so they will hold up. The plan is a sturdy factory rear rack for a rear motor and a second motor for the front handlebars. the motors will be 1,000W 48V Unite motors hooked to three 6s 10.0 minimum LIPO packs in series for 66.6V. I am not sure what controller I will need but probably a 3 kilowatt brushed and if it is 60V It will need to have 74V caps or higher but not lower. 4.1 * 18 = 73.8V. If it is a 72V controller then the cutoff cant be above 64V. 3.6 * 18 = 64.8V.
I have some time to put this together so there is no rush. Top speed should be around 40mph. Hopefully I will get the new Lipos balanced this week and the red bike going with the six SLAs in the back for 24V@30Ah. If so I will do a video going downtown and back. Thanks.
LC. out.
DrkAngel
1 GW
If you really want a short length bike, with cargo capability ...
Should be perfect for you ... since you don't like front brakes anyhow?
Just leave the shopping cart in the front yard ... and carry bike, with no front wheel, up stairs?
Should be perfect for you ... since you don't like front brakes anyhow?
Just leave the shopping cart in the front yard ... and carry bike, with no front wheel, up stairs?
latecurtis
100 MW
It is a very good idea except for the roads here. Before I had my camera and started this post I had the Currie at 24V with the huge rear basket. Metal was high and I bungeed the handle of a shopping cart to the rear basket. I hauled about $100 worth of metal to Erics house that summer.
I posted a video youtube link awhile back with a cargo trailer with a motor that pushed a bike. I would think in the picture you just posted that it would be difficult to steer. Also with the potholes and roads here the shopping cart would need larger wheels. With 12" wheels with tubes and tires a push cart could be built that attaches to the rear rack and axle on both sides of the bike. Also with a 12" wheel the 5700rpm 1580W Ampflow motor would be an option.
I have been thinking along those lines all along but the problem is e bikes are barley legal as it is and police frown on stealing shopping carts but usually never bother with pulling anyone over for pushing one down the street. Add larger wheels and a motor attached to the back of a bike and now you have a head turner. Most likely to get pulled over by a curious police officer.
Thanks for posting though. I am working on soldering batteries today.
LC. out.
I posted a video youtube link awhile back with a cargo trailer with a motor that pushed a bike. I would think in the picture you just posted that it would be difficult to steer. Also with the potholes and roads here the shopping cart would need larger wheels. With 12" wheels with tubes and tires a push cart could be built that attaches to the rear rack and axle on both sides of the bike. Also with a 12" wheel the 5700rpm 1580W Ampflow motor would be an option.
I have been thinking along those lines all along but the problem is e bikes are barley legal as it is and police frown on stealing shopping carts but usually never bother with pulling anyone over for pushing one down the street. Add larger wheels and a motor attached to the back of a bike and now you have a head turner. Most likely to get pulled over by a curious police officer.
Thanks for posting though. I am working on soldering batteries today. LC. out.
Sunder
10 MW
DrkAngel said:
That's hilarious. I'd be tempted to do that with a really good rear brake, especially if I could find a trolley that was easy to steer. Keeping it at reasonable speeds (10-15km/h) might actually make it a fairly safe bike to ride.
It'd attract way too much attention though. I reckon police would try to defect you, but wouldn't know if a six wheeled vehicle was still technically a bicycle or not.
latecurtis
100 MW
The soldered connections got shrink tubes then electrical tape and gorilla tape over that. There wont be ant broken connections or shorts. The one pack that had the low cell when I got it and was balanced charged to above 3.8V is on the balance and the other pack which was not charged at all and had the one cell which was over 4V is on the charger on Lilo balance mode.
I cut the banana plugs off the parallel board Dan sent and made charging cables for the new Lipos. I wanted to keep the other charging cables with the alligator clips as I use them to charge SLAs out in the hallway.
When I was walking to Wall-Mart tonight I was thinking again and I don't see much sense in combining six SLAs for 24V@30Ah for the red bike and using the 24" bike for a cargo bike. What I need is a bike which is easy to carry up and down stairs which is reliable and capable of hauling cargo and has about 10 miles of range. Also making two extra trips us and down stairs to hook all those SLAs up is a hassle and it makes it impossible to use the red bike for cargo.
There is no way I can send one or both of the packs back to the company as I cut the X&90 connectors off and soldered 4mm bullet plugs on them. Also there was only a 14 day return policy. The best I can do is balance and balance charge them and hope for the best. If I can get the two packs close enough the plan is to combine them into a single pack for the red bike.
I am going to figure out a way to attach the small cash box with the new Lipos combined for 4.1 * 6 or 24.6V. this will enable me to put a large rear basket on the red bike for cargo. I just need to check for the low voltage cutoff on the controller with the built in pot on the red bike. I will do that now.
10-50V Motor Speed Control 12V 24V 48V 40A PWM HHO RC Controller 2000W MAX BRUSH
I found the original link DA posted.
It actually works very well and I wont have to worry about low voltage cutoff. The thing is the 24" bike is fully functional now even though it is over-geared. I could remedy that with the 9 tooth I made to work with liquid weld however there really is not much difference in weigh between that and the Currie.
Also if you look close at the frame of the red bike you will see that it is heavy duty steel. The frame looks beefy to me and I don't agree that it is made for only a 100 or 150lb person. I will keep the 9 tooth and already have the 60 T spoke sprocket for it. I am going to run the red bike exclusively if these Lipo packs are good enough to combine.
I will be splitting up the SLAs. Four for the Schwinn for 48V@10Ah and good for < 15mph at 1C discharge. 48V * 10 = 480W or 15mph.
The other two SLAs can be back up for the red bike in case a Lipo alarm goes off on my way home. I can switch to 24V@10Ah SLA and hopefully make it home. I am better off damaging SLAs than running Lipo packs to low.
As for the 24" build I think I should go with my plan to add another motor on the front then order a 60V controller and 60V LIFEPO4 pack. The large cooling fans should keep the motors cool enough for 40mph. Let me know if you think it's a good idea.Thanks.
LC. out.
DAND214
10 MW
It's just a shame that YOU don't read what is posted.DrkAngel said:
I see cell balancers not the balance CHARGER. NOT 4.10v per cell but the 4.2v to see if they will even take that charge. You can balance any shitty pack at lower voltage as you are doing with the cell tester. I can take the garbage I'm discarding and balance it at the 3.85 but maybe not the 4.20v,
DA and I are trying to help you learn more about batteries.
But as much as we have tried you still don't understand SHIT! Why don't you try/do what everyone has said instead of doing the opposite?
I just gets so frustrating when we try so hard and you don't, won't or just can't read!!!! I have read this whole thing and at times just sit here and shake my head and say WTF? Why bother, my wife says? Many times I have started a post and just said WHY.
It's so hard to believe that you, YES YOU are as stubborn as my DOG. I tell her to use FLUX and all she does is give a blank look. That is what it seems to be happening here with almost everything.
Why
WHy
WHY
???
Dan
latecurtis
100 MW
I got LIPO alarms here somewhere. I don't know how they work though.
I thought it would be safer to only charge to 4.1V at least until I find out if I have a bad cell or not.?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331686246939?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&var=540810464894&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
It has a camera and a microphone. If two people have one I think you can communicate on facebook and see and hear what each person is doing. It could be helpful.
If I can get all the cells in both packs all the same or close I can always charge to 4.2V afterwards. Also the pack I charged with the low cell was at least a month ago. Although not fully charged there was no evidence of self discharge in that pack. Hopefully the pack being charged now will be a healthy pack also.
Yes Dan now that makes sense. I will charge them to 4.2V at least once if I find I don't have a bad cell. One pack is balance charging awhile the other pack I balance charged before is hooked to the balancer. I never finished balance charging that pack.
Right now all the cells read 3.82V on the balancer except for #5 which was high. >4V and at 3.91V now. I guess it will discharge down to 3.82V like the others. I will put it on the charger when that happens.
The pack hooked to the charger was set at 3A. It is now at 0A so it is just balancing to 4.1V now.
I am going to get them balanced charged to 4.1V first and then see if there is any self discharge after 48 hours. After that I will set the charger for LIPO balance at 4.2V. Then I will wait 72 hours and if both packs are close enough I will combine them. Thanks.
LC. out.
I thought it would be safer to only charge to 4.1V at least until I find out if I have a bad cell or not.?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/331686246939?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&var=540810464894&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
It has a camera and a microphone. If two people have one I think you can communicate on facebook and see and hear what each person is doing. It could be helpful.
If I can get all the cells in both packs all the same or close I can always charge to 4.2V afterwards. Also the pack I charged with the low cell was at least a month ago. Although not fully charged there was no evidence of self discharge in that pack. Hopefully the pack being charged now will be a healthy pack also.
Yes Dan now that makes sense. I will charge them to 4.2V at least once if I find I don't have a bad cell. One pack is balance charging awhile the other pack I balance charged before is hooked to the balancer. I never finished balance charging that pack.
Right now all the cells read 3.82V on the balancer except for #5 which was high. >4V and at 3.91V now. I guess it will discharge down to 3.82V like the others. I will put it on the charger when that happens.
The pack hooked to the charger was set at 3A. It is now at 0A so it is just balancing to 4.1V now.
I am going to get them balanced charged to 4.1V first and then see if there is any self discharge after 48 hours. After that I will set the charger for LIPO balance at 4.2V. Then I will wait 72 hours and if both packs are close enough I will combine them. Thanks.
LC. out.
Attachments
latecurtis
100 MW
View attachment 2As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns. The balancer.About 8 hours for the balancer and going on five for the balance charger.
Basically this is taking awhile.
Not sure why 200kb files wont show when 512 is the limit. VERY irritating! :?
Also It seems like the balancer is better at balancing than the charger or the pack on the charger getting balanced is shot! It is still set for 120min. The next time the alarm goes off it will be 7 hours. That pack should be balanced by the balancer down to 3 .82V like the one on the balancer now, then be LIPO balanced to 4.2V right?
I can only hope for the best. Please let me know. I just dont want a LIPO fire here. Thanks.
LC. out.
latecurtis
100 MW
SOLDERING SUCKS.
I did have a fan in the window on it's highest setting and still got a nasty headache. The smell lingers in the house. I will do it only when absolutely necessary.
These new hook ups for the SLAs are cheap to make and cool as they cant short out and provide a good series connection. Also you know if they are good or not as if you dont see copper wire extruding like in the photo then throw it out. And the best part of course is I dont have to have a headache and a bad smell. :lol:
I did have a fan in the window on it's highest setting and still got a nasty headache. The smell lingers in the house. I will do it only when absolutely necessary.
These new hook ups for the SLAs are cheap to make and cool as they cant short out and provide a good series connection. Also you know if they are good or not as if you dont see copper wire extruding like in the photo then throw it out. And the best part of course is I dont have to have a headache and a bad smell. :lol:
latecurtis
100 MW
Attachments
latecurtis
100 MW
Basically that is battery backup.
You guys have been telling me for years that Lipo alarms are necessary. I will take your advice as I believe in you guys. However if I am a little drunk and dont feel like pedaling this apparatus will get me home at a slow speed. <15mph. and less than a 1C discharge rate as it is 24V@20Ah.
The new packs if not defective will be my primary power source. The 20" red bike I want as my main e bike transportation.
latecurtis
100 MW
I will have that with the red bike.I Already have it with the Schwinn and 24" overgeared build. :lol: If the motor and wheel sprocket on the red bike there now fails it will be replaced with the 60T spoke sprocket and 9T I made and will work. I even have another idea how to remount the motor to the handlebars if necessary. I will succeed and prove it to be reliable thru time unless I cease to exist.
100% correct. I am stubborn. You called the way it is? I also used flux today with every solder I did. Also the red bike has functional front and rear brakes. Your criticism of my 20" build and the weight limit DA claims at 100lbs is a true underestimation of the capabilities of a strong steel Mongoose 20" BMX frame with an experienced e bike builder converting it . Thanks for sharing.
Peace out.
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