new eZip motor

[markz]

Latecurtis image in previous post - The "High Torque" vs "High Speed" myth, is that still being perpetrated by QS motor?
It says QS motor but other sellers sell QS motors, like a Ford.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=64907&p=974291&hilit=myth#p974291
Here is another one kind of explains picking which turn count - https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=109237&p=1599331&hilit=myth#p1599220

Lots of people have used the QS motor, just do a quick ES search.

Yes, older people in colder climates are known to head south, Florida, Arizona, California, Mexico, Cuba and other South American destinations. I had a whole plan last March when this whole covid thing started, some good adventures planned. Plans delayed and plans change.

 

[latecurtis]

but seeing the wiring with no regard for neg or pos, red for pos, and black for neg. So many half-assed wiring and solder joints. An accident waiting to happen! It'd be fun to see a single build done right.

OK. tomjasz

Those pictures should clear things up.

You were not seeing the whole picture as the saying says.

Not your fault but mine.

All those connections were soldered like the pictures I posted and liquid electrical tape and meticulously wrapped with thin strips of electric tape. No cheap Auto Zone switches rated at 15 amps and fuses were used like previous builds but professional 60 amp DC circuit breakers recommended by a reputable ES member quite a few pages back. 40 amp for Bafang motors.

The XT 60 plugs coming from the battery packs are female that plug into male XT60s from the controllers. The motor wires are female bullets and yellow and blue and plug into male bullets from the controllers. the colored tape is used so the bike don't go backwards when switching controllers.

Note how I even wrapped tape around the connecters on the DC breakers. I was thinking about that water proof spray to go over all the wiring but not sure if it is a good idea. Perhaps you or someone can tell me as waterproofing is most desirable considering the amount of rain we get here.

I have a choice between the 36V - 800W and the 48V - 1,000W brush controllers for the 36V - 750W gear reduction chain drive on the back. The 36V controller for the Bafang motor will be here the first of April. A better camera will be here before that to avoid future misunderstandings.

Lots of people have used the QS motor, just do a quick ES search.

Yes I defiantly will do a search. To be honest though I am jumping the gun. E bike upgrades are still underway as well as the Haro V3 with the 3 kilowatt brushless motor.

I have to test the Giant Roam build. The 26" dual suspension with the 1,000W hub on the back and 1,000W chain on the front and also the 1,800W brushless motor with the 13S - 7P pack. IF I do order a QS motor it will be at least 3 or 4 months from now. The LTOs need to happen way before I even consider that. But it don't hurt to research.

It would seem that if a 3 to 5 kilowatt QS motor can do 60+ mph that a 6 to 10 kilowatt cro-Motor should be doing 70 to 80 mph so am thinking that they are lying about the QS motor doing 60+ mph. I need to know what the difference is between HUBZILLA (the cro-motor) and these QS motors. My guess is the QS motors will self destruct before the cro - motor but I could be wrong.

Thanks for posting everyone.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

The 5kw motor probably has 150mm axle flats. I know the mxus motor does, so probably the qs motor to. No worries cant be bothered to check myself, surfing the web here, multitasking as they say.

As for your wiring, as long as it works, its safe and you cant fu.dge/ck anything up.

I dont bother trying to match up phase wire colors, my downfall on that would be on occasion using red and black wire same gauge as battery. Like I said before its more common for me to hard wire the phase wires leaving enough slack in the wire to change a tire, maybe later I will reread what Chalo says about that. NM I found it.
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=62231&start=6500#p1616969

Yeah... no. Servicing a bike when the wheel is on a leash, or swapping a busted throttle when it's soldered on, is needless foolishness. It's cursing yourself with future problems that could have been avoided.

Guess I am just to cheap and or to lazy to solder up some connectors for them phases and throttle. Though current iteration of phase wires is 4mm bullets, probably hidden behind a good layer of black electrical tape. 100% guess that my throttle is hardwired. but yeah good wording.
"needless foolishness. It's cursing yourself with future problems that could have been avoided." in all honesty, havent had a single problem with hardwiredness if that be a word or no.

 

[99t4]

At least Spring is close. Ground hogs day should be soon.

You're early.









































For next year

Groundhog day is Feb. 2, where you live.


Don't necessarily need a bike shop for front suspension (or any) forks. Ebay is full of them, they deliver, you have experience buying things off the internet looks like.

 

[latecurtis]

I could add hot glue to where the wires go into the plugs so no water gets inside. Also the white plugs I don't use as water could short something in the controller.

I still wonder if those water proof sprays could work. I need to research them.

We get tons of rain in spring and summer here in Ohio.

tomjasz

I am so fed up with people who think my solder joints and connections are suspect to failure that when I do get those connecters DA. recommended I am going to do a stress test with weights. I have 60 pounds of dumbbells.

I am cutting two 1 foot sections of 16 gauge wire and soldering them my way and applying the liquid tape and then the regular tape like shown in the pictures I posted.

I will do the same using the solder tubes DA. posted and we will see which connection fails first. If they both hold 60 pounds I will need to add weight by tying objects to make it heavier.

We shall see which connection fails first. :lol:

Strength is very important but enough insulation material so there is no shorts is a big factor as important. I already have a great advantage there also by using liquid tape with non liquid tape over that and three layers. The thin strips are superior by design over a full strip of tape. triple protection. And reinforcement over one wider strip.

I know I will win but those solder tubes are quicker , easier and strong enough. I am still glad I ordered them as will save me several minutes for each solder joint and strong enough to hold up for the long run. If it breaks at 50 pounds of force and my connection lasts until 65 pounds it is good enough as those connecters will not break without a lot of force.

Thanks.

LC. out.

2/23/21 - 2:11 PM.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-vMiLNOR97Y

I am watching videos about water proofing electronics. I am sure like anything else that there are dozens of products to choose from out there. I plan on using hot glue first on each XT60 plug where the wires connect. The waterproof spray will be used over all my tape connections and wires as well as the controller.

Water proofing is very important as it rains a lot here in Ohio. Especially in the spring and summer. In the fall and winter we also get a fair amount of rain so water proofing is very important. It is just one more part of the extensive upgrades I am doing.

As far as criticism goes I can't say I welcome it but will embrace it by proving it wrong , false. A fallacy. I will achieve this with extensive pictures , tests and videos.

With my dual motor e bikes I will be testing performance up hills. I will find the steepest hill around and shoot an onboard video as well as offboard. I will place the camera where it shows me climbing the hill with high definition so you can actually see what the chain is doing on chain drives. I get a lot of criticism on all my chain drive builds. Obviously I need to make adjustments from time to time.

Large cameras are bulky and expensive. phone cameras are difficult to mount off board but since I have a camera mount and two android phones I will try to do onboard and offboard video at the same time.

I will be looking on e bay now for a decent pocket Cannon just like the one I had for years and shot many videos with.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. Step 3 and 4. Wiring connections in the e bike work shop.

I added the hot glue. That is another tool in my e bike work shop and I can add that to the list of ideas that DA. has gave me over the years. I remember him telling me that hot glue works for many things e bike related.

I wrapped thin strips of electric tape over it as it looks better and provides even more insulation. Basically my connections are water resistant but not 100% water proof. I would not submerge the wires in water but with a plastic bag over the handle bars and a couple small bungee cords my electronics are protected from moderate to heavy rain.

The connectors DA posted are by design even more water proof though. Also much easier and less time spent on each connection. Wrapping all those thin strips of electrical tape is very meticulous but highly effective none the less.

The two very bottom pics show the third DC circuit breaker which will be used for the Bafang controller for the front motor. It is supposed to be here in April. I labeled the two plugs for the 36V and 48V controllers for the rear 36V - 750W gear reduction chain drive motor. It will allow me greater range as can use both battery packs.

I plan on building a couple 10S - 6P packs from 18650 cells for the Bafang controllers as they are 16 to 18 amps so could have two 10S - 6P as well as the new 10S - 8P pack I bought new last year. I can run the brand new 13S - 7p packs for the rear motor which I do not have to use at all on the flat if I choose not to.

With all that information just imagine the range I will have. How could that possibly be a mediocre build ?????

I rest my case.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

You are now in Ohio? I thought you were in Pennsylvania from NY state. Seems to me you are slowly making your way westward.

Stock up on some heat shrink off ebay, I see tons available from $5-$12 but do see what the shipping would be and only buy from some a seller in the United States. If your lucky Walmart will have some heat shrink and have a product for sale with wide pieces.

 

[latecurtis]

You are now in Ohio? I thought you were in Pennsylvania from NY state. Seems to me you are slowly making your way westward.

Well I moved here back in May 2019. A place called Canfield. My upstate NY experience was in skid row. I lived in upstate NY off and on most of my life but the rent in Schenectady NY doubled in about 10 years especially after they put in a Casino.

My bills were > $1,000 each month and in the winter > $1,100. We had no electricity for about 6 weeks and no heat. We lived by running an extension cord from the neighbor downstairs for $50 bucks a month.

We ended up there.



We paid about $130 a week and had to sell a 2006 dodge Caravan to pay our rent. We were there until July 3 - 2019 about 10 weeks I think. Youngstown Ohio was about 11 miles and there was a bike trail about 6 - 1/2 mile to Wall-mart that was awesome. Mahoning county and the only e bike I had was the 26" dual suspension up until August 2020. I rode it all over the place with pedal assist and is the 500 watt e bikeling geared hub motor that is now on the back of the Giant Roam. The 500W front 700c e bikeling motor is on the front of the Giant Roam. I finally got my 10 by 10 storage moved from NY to here in August 2020 for about $700.

There was no kitchen so outside grilling only and was $520 a month so moved about 70 miles or so to Stark county Ohio on July 3. Canton Ohio. I pay $375 all utilities included and just went to the ATM. My wife has over $1,100 in the bank and I have over $1,000. A van on the road and pay between $20 and $30 a month insurance. It goes by mile. I have my medical card and get top of the line cannabis for around 10 bucks a gram with my disability discount. In fact a few months after we got here I found $450 in a black purse with only someone's first name on a piece of paper on an envelope with no ID or anything. It was just laying on the side of the road, :lol: I bought a 58" 4K Smart TV with the money on new years eve 2019.

We get our monthly disability on the first week of March. We are doing much better but will probably never see our friends and family ever again as they are New Yorkers and nobody is moving here and I am never going back there and with COVID19 you guys are like my only friends.

I have yet to test drive the Giant Roam but assure you and everyone here on ES that it is NOT a mediocre build. I will hook up a speedometer and find out the top speed but am guessing around 25 mph as the front motor is 700c with a 22 amp controller. The rear motor is for up hills only as can run both motors as well as pedal assist. It is a long range e bike and highly efficient. But defiantly NOT for bike trails or off road. That is what the 20" bike with the 1,800W brushless motor is for. Also the 26" dual suspension with a 1,000W hub motor on the back and 36V - 1,000W chain drive on the front. My flagship build as the 26" dual suspension has been a lot of places and has nostalgic value now.

And speaking of nostalgic value the Currie eZip Trailz is my very first e bike and is also a dirt trail bike but can be used on road also. So I have 3 bikes I can run trailz with. Make that 3 - 1/2 as the 20" turbo is no slouch either. The motor is 800W at 48V and 533 watts at 36V and is ok on most small to moderate hills. It has been my main commuter since August 2020 when I took the 26" dual suspension off the road.

Like I said before the Flagship e bike boasts 2 kilowatts minimum with approx. 30 mph gearing. I spent a lot of money putting the 1,000W hub motor on a new rim as well as a lot of time and effort taking it apart and soldering all new wires on the inside. I put it back together and tested it before the bike shop put it on a new rim. The hub motor is still like new as never put a lot of miles on it. I only rode it sparingly for a couple years before cracking the rim.

It probably has less than 100 miles on it. The 36V brush 1,000W chain drive on the front is brand spanking new with 0 miles on it. It is far from mediocre and the fastest bike I own going up hills. I will race about any bike electric or gas up hills. If I put 60V to the rear and 48V to the front top speed will be 35 to 36 mph. I will be using the hot glue and more thin strips of electrical tape as well as some waterproof spray on that next before riding it.

The only thing I do not like about it is the weight. An all steel dual suspension frame with two heavy motors makes it about impossible to bring up and down 3 flights of narrow stairs and the front end is about 6" too high to fit in my minivan. Once I solve those problems it is basically more than just an e bike. With the heavy duty steel dual suspension frame 30 - 35 mph top speed and 2 kilowatts total power it is an electric dirt bike. Far from mediocre.

The Haro V3 , my next build is a vintage mountain bike. Haro rings bells. Far from average but a reputable name brand and is silver and sexy. With the heavy duty stock Currie rack built for SLAs on either side it is perfect for the 3 kilowatt brushless motor and 70 amp controller. I already had a heavy brush MY1020 motor bolted to that rack on the first pages of this post. It is test proven. It will go between 45 and 50 mph this summer so will be my official racing e bike.

A QS or cro - motor will go on my 27.5" silver Dimond Back. A BMC or MAC motor will go on the back of Easy Street my 700c Giant Cypress hybrid. That only leaves one last e bike or should I say EV project. The FX - 75-5 motor. Yes folks I still own it. I saw a 250cc dirt bike frame I think the other day less than a mile away. It could have been a 450cc. Not sure. It was not running. rusty and lots of parts missing. :lol: The frame looked up to the task though but would need a ton of TLC. That is ok though as all I got is time if I can stay healthy.

My goal is to try and walk at least two miles a day. I took a walk earlier and so 4 sets of dumbbells' each day. 20 to 30 pounds each dumbbell as I have a serious heart condition called a theoretic aortic aneurism. Basically that means heavy lifting could kill me but doing nothing will make my type 2 diabetes worse and will die anyway. So I will do overhead presses one day one arm at a time and curls the next. I eat lots of veggies , chicken and fish , trail mix and rabbit food (salads). Getting old really sucks. Back in the early and mid 90s 225 lbs on the bench press for 10 reps was part of my warm up. At 240 lbs body weight I pressed 350 lbs for 3 reps and 375 lbs one time with no spot. Those days are long gone.

I limit red meat to about twice a week and 85% lean or higher. Pizza and pasta about once a week limited portions. My alcohol consumption is much less as never drink during the day and am down to less than a six pack 12oz or 2 to 3 - 24 oz cans and have been skipping a few nights a week. I did down half a bottle of gin though a few days ago. However the last bottle of gin sat in the fridge for about 2 months 1/3 full so am doing much better with my drinking.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. The FX - 75 - 5 motor. - 89 mph.



Will that work ?????

I can get someone to weld a bracket for the motor cheap.

Perhaps tomjasz is right. That one good build could be the FX - 75 -5 motor. That would make all my previous builds mediocre. I can live with that. 89 mph gearing. 0 to 60 < 4 seconds.

45 kilowatts. Not sure about a battery though but have the 45 kilowatt motor and controller. Been sitting on it for about 5 years now I think. No more excuses that I don't have the money. Once the Stimulus checks get here I could spend $1,000 for batteries but not sure what batteries. LTOs ?????

I have had no luck getting a cargo trailer to park behind my van. Thinking about getting a small storage unit but not worth it for a couple bikes I can not fit in the van. But if I take on the FX - 75 - 5 project this summer it would be worth 40 or 50 bucks a month for a small storage unit close by if I can find one.

The thing is I will need a lot of help from somewhere. It is way over my head. It is not a tinker toy by any means. Also may need to look into getting my motorcycle license. If I can't pass the test I guess I could still use it off road so would not be a total loss.

I just need more information. I can get a bracket welded cheap but have no idea where I would order a belt for that. It is a belt driven motor. Lord knows how much the belt would cost. I would love to get a motor cycle license but for a 500 mile road trip I will probably need closer to $5,000 for batteries. Off road 5 miles or less may be able to get away with $1,000 or $1,200 worth of LTOs. That would justify spending that much on batteries and could also use them for any of my e bikes as it is easy to hook up about any voltage with LTOs.

With no or little help it is just a pipe dream at this point so kind of up to everyone here on ES. I have absolutely no clue besides paying someone to weld a bracket for the motor. After that I am clueless what to do next. The closest ES member to me I think is DA. IF he did decide to help me out I would need to get both COVID vaccine's as I think travel to NY requires 14 days of quarantine. However I think after the vaccine I get a card or something to show authorities so would not have to quarantine.

I wish SUNDER was close but he lives in another country. I know he builds electric motorcycles. It is something to think about. Any feedback that is positive pertaining to the subject will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

LC. out.



OK. I just called harbor freight. They have everything I will need. Well almost everything. I am not living in a perfect neighborhood. Something like that could walk away.

I know they have locks so someone can't hook up to it but not trusting that with a $5,000 FX - 75-5 motorcycle parked in it. I would need to invest in > $200 plywood and 2 by 4s to enclose it. Then a low jack system in case it did get stolen and a decent alarm system that goes off if someone were to try and break in it or move it.

If I had a low jack and alarm already I would be headed for Harbor freight and home depot today. This will take some planning. Alarm systems and low jacks are not my specialty. Again I am clueless. Once it is finished though I can get a decent motorcycle frame like the one in the photo. There should be enough room for a frame for the FX project and my 26" dual suspension that won't fit in the van.

Also it is not a big waste of money as I can use it to move when I need to. I won't have to rent a U haul. It might take two trips with a 1,000 pound limit. It is rated at 1.200 pounds but the wood to enclosure it will be about 200 pounds give or take. 40 pounds for 1/2" 48 pounds for 5/8". I will need to do a lot of calculations. This is a really big project.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

Sheeeesh

Forget converting a motorcycle to electric, just buy a normal motorcycle, they use so little gas, so little gas. Yes I had to repeat that.

 

[tomjasz]

Sheeeesh

Forget converting a motorcycle to electric, just buy a normal motorcycle, they use so little gas, so little gas. Yes I had to repeat that.

What? Do you want common sense?

 

[latecurtis]

Forget converting a motorcycle to electric, just buy a normal motorcycle, they use so little gas, so little gas. Yes I had to repeat that.

So what am I supposed to do with my FX - 75-5 motor ????


Maybe you guys did not realize that I have been sitting on that. It was the most expensive gift I ever received. I will never sell it under any circumstances. I believe it to be 45 kilowatts. I have no idea how to hook it up. I need a professional to do that but need a belt and of course batteries. I do not like gas motorcycles. They are loud and obnoxious and never learned to shift the gears. I do not want to learn. I want an electric motorcycle and 89 mph gearing sounds great.

I never had the money to do anything with it when I lived in NY. Now I am sitting on $2.000 and waiting on $2800 stimulus between my wife and I. And we are getting $1800 together from disability next week. I will be 56 years old on April 26 so am not getting any younger. It has been about 5 years since I got the motor. I see no sense in waiting another 5 years to start the project.

Basically if I ever want to use it I need a motor cycle frame. That is the first step.



Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

45kw sounds like a lot of work, but the good news is it looks like you have the controller that hopefully goes along with the 45kw motor.

 

[latecurtis]

45kw sounds like a lot of work, but the good news is it looks like you have the controller that hopefully goes along with the 45kw motor.

Yes. I was very happy it was sent together. I think it was around 2015 when I received it. From start to finish it could take a few years to do. I am not in a big rush to finish but would like to start it. A frame is the first step. I would really like to build it as close as possible to the original death bike.

The Death bike is like 1/2 bike and 1/2 motorcycle. I do not even know how to weld or build it like that. However still want to.

I just got back from the bike shop and got brand new brakes on the 26" dual suspension front and back. Professionally installed. One of my brackets was about 1/4 inch off and the guy fixed it somehow so the brake pad does not hit the tire. It costs $65 bucks with brand new lines. The calipers were also brand new. He is also going to help me out with the Haro next month. I will be installing the 3 kilowatt brushless motor next month. I need a wheel sprocket.

I was all worried for nothing. The 26" dual suspension with the chain drive on the front fits perfectly in the minivan. I use the side door instead of the rear door. In fact I will also be able to fit the Currie in the back when it is finished. It will fit between the two 20" bikes. So I will have my choice of four e bikes to ride this summer.

1. The 20" Turbo hub motor - 533W @ 36V - 18 mph

2. The 20" brushless motor 1,500W controller - 35 mph

3. The 26" dual suspension 2 kilowatts - 33 mph

4. The Currie eZip Trailz - 30 mph

The Giant Roam is a light weight. The two e bike ling motors are light. I can carry that upstairs easily. Also the Haro V3 will be able to carry up the stairs as the frame is really light and will install low profile handle bars for the hallway. I am not putting a Bafang on the front so can do a quick release front tire and just make an extra trip for the battery pack and front wheel. It will make managing the stairs and hallway easier. It is what I did with the 26" dual suspension back when I just had the e bikeling motor on the back when I first moved here.

If I do build the Giant Cypress hybrid it is also very light. The 27.5" Dimond Back is also in the van with the wheels off it and no motor. I am happy I can fit 4 e bikes and a frame and wheels in my van. Today has been a great day. I will be testing the 26" dual suspension out tomorrow.

I am also planning on riding the Giant Roam out to the bike shop to have the rear brake hooked up on a day when they have the time to do it. The front brake is working to get it out there. I will need to call ahead. The guy did me a special favor tonight and I owe him a buck. I was a dollar short. He was going to have me leave it and go back to pick it up but then grabbed his tool to cut the brake lines and went to work on it. I held the bike as it has no kick stand.

A really strange thing happened when I was pushing it back to the van. when I went down a ramp and when pushing it across the parking lot the red light on the throttle lit up. :lol: Somehow just pushing the bike made that happen. The circuit breaker was turned off and no batteries were hooked up to it. How does that happen. I really would like an answer to that. The throttle is the 4 wire going to the brushless controller for the 1,000W hub motor. Not the brushed controller. The 3 wire throttle has no lights on it.

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

A frame is the first step.

The first step is finding stable accommodation with enough space to work on something like that.

Yes its ideal to have a garage, any garage to work in. But thats more money, then you have to make sure the premises are secure.

Yeah that bike looks bitching from the video's I've seen of it, hopefully you will be tying your shoelaces unlike that one rider. Always brings a laugh seeing that shoe flying in the air. Brings back memories of me losing a shoe late on a Friday or Saturday night long ago a few times that happened I thank my liver every time I see a single shoe on the ground as I am passing by. Strangely enough, there are lots of single shoes on the ground if your paying attention.

I do not even know how to weld or build it like that. However still want to do it.

Well maybe the first step is buying a 115V arc welder or mig welder and practicing on free steel. Can always find something free made of steel. Then to build something like that, read, read, read. Not only read, but also action. Decision without action is just a thought.

I just got back from the bike shop and got brand new brakes on the 26" dual suspension front and back. Professionally installed. One of my brackets was about 1/4 inch off and the guy fixed it somehow so the brake pad does not hit the tire. It costs $65 bucks with brand new lines. The calipers were also brand new. He is also going to help me out with the Haro next month. I will be installing the 3 kilowatt brushless motor next month. I need a wheel sprocket.

$65 seems expensive for adjustment/installment, but professional bike mechanics need to earn a living. Youtube could have saved you a few cases of beer for tomorrow night, be sure to tie your shoe laces. Hate to see you lose a shoe.

the red light on the throttle lit up.

Probably just the sunlight hitting the led bulb at the right angle, can easily make it look like its on.

 

[latecurtis]

Probably just the sunlight hitting the led bulb at the right angle, can easily make it look like its on.

There was no sun out. It was dark.

The DC breaker was off and no batteries. Somehow the turning of the hub motor generated a current to the led light that is red. On the throttle. 4 wire I think. Pretty sure.

Not sure if the switch was on on the controller but were no batteries hooked up and DC circuits were off.

Someone must know what is going on.

No I do not have the skill or room to build it. My only hope is paying to have a lot of it done. The welding. I can mount the controller and batteries. I have the skill for that but not hooking them up. It will probably be close to 100V. Not sure what to even run. More research needs to be done on the motor and belt so am in the parts stage. Like I said it could be a three or four year project. I will do what I can like painting , fabricating battery installation once I decide what battery configuration.

Basically I am paying for welding and hooking the motor up to the wheel and brakes. 12V wiring for signal lights and headlights I can do. Then I install everything and paint ect. Then pay someone to actually hook the controller to the battery. :lol:

I might even buy someone a 12 pack to test it the first time so I don't get planted in the dirt. 70+ fp of torque is like a 4 cylinder gas engine powering a 150 bike and person. Power to weight ratio is superb. The front wheel might have a tendency to shoot for the moon. A feller could break a neck for gods sake. :lol: :lol: Why I got to get someone who knows what they are doing to help me. :lol: Delta switching maybe

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SiiNORLzA18

I started in 2013 so 8 years experience. I need someone with like 18 years experience who works on electric dirt bikes. I would not even know that was a controller if it did not come with the motor. I got as much chance hooking that up as flying the space shuttle. :lol: I surely would electrocute myself.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

I test drove the 26" dual suspension yesterday.

I had less than adequate results.

The hub motor I took apart had some issues. After hauling it back upstairs I corrected those issues. The rear cover to the hub motor was not on right and caused a grinding noise. After putting in the missing cover screws and re mounting the motor it is fixed. The bike shop did not do that great of a job either with truing the wheel after lacing it to a new rim.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5U62KQKc1EM&feature=youtu.be

Also the front wheel with the 89 tooth sprocket is not trued right either and I paid them to do it. The chain drive does work but a lot of movement of the wheel and at high speeds the chain could come off. That is not my fault but a piss poor job by the bike shop.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3gyLea8p7J8&feature=youtu.be

What really sucks is I have to take the wheel off to fix it. I might just buy a brand new rim as it needs to be perfect. I believe with a perfect straight rim the work I did installing the chain drive will prove to be reliable. I know how to install chain drive motors,

However a system is only as good as it's weakest link and if that is the wheel itself so it wont matter how impressive my mounting skills are as it is still doomed to failure.

I paid them a lot of money to do what I could not do and that is make the wheels straight. Now you all know why I feel like punching people in the face. I do not like getting ripped off and that is exactly what they did. Yes I could uninstall the front motor. However those steel strap clamps can only be used over a couple times I will probably need to replace at least two of them not to mention the time and effort to uninstall and reinstall the motor. :x

I just got off the phone with them. I was polite. I will not get it fixed the way I want it by being rude or hitting someone. I called yesterday and was told they were busy for the next 3 weeks but if I brought it out they would look at it. However today I asked if there was an e mail address I could send the link to both you tube videos and then have them call me for an appointment. I sent them so now if I do not hear from them by next week I will call them.

They have another bike shop closer and if they are too busy perhaps I could send them the videos. Either way it is just a question of time until my build is a smashing success because even if I have to buy a brand new rim I will prove beyond any doubt that I can mount almost any chain drive motor to the front of just about any mountain bike.

2/27/21

Yea. I called them back. It is what I thought. They said they were too busy to even look at the videos and would get back to me next week.

I also had to re solder one of the sensor wires. Those wires suck. They are so thin that can break just by soldering them. I am thinking of ordering a sensor less controller. I did re solder all those sensor wires inside and outside the motor as I did not want to cut the plug off the controller so I dealt with 10 solder connecters instead of five and then still had to re solder a sensor wire last night.

Basically if you breath too hard on those sensor wires they will break. If I am to run this old hub motor this summer I need a sensor less controller. I can still keep the controller I am using now. In fact I might try and hook it to those Bafang motors to test them as those 17 amp controllers wont be here until April.

The sun is out and is gorgeous outside. I charged both my android phones hoping to shoot on board video. I tried to shoot those you tube videos and transfer the video to the laptop. It seemed like the phone was recording however when I hooked it to the usb on my laptop and clicked on the icon that popped up it said empty. Both android phones. I wanted to take a hammer to them but the GPS works great on both phones.

I ordered a cannon pocket cam just like I had but is taking forever to get here. I am limited to a 13 dollar family dollar flip phone now to shoot video. I guess it is better than nothing. I deleted all the files on it and am charging it now so should be able to shoot something. I had to solder a plug for the 1,800W brushless motor with the 1,500W controller. I wish I bought an 1,800W or 2,500W controller for that bike but at the time the price on the 1,500W was more desirable. The 13S - 7P pack is only rated at 1,200W anyway. I did not even hook up a speedo either but on a nice day like this any video is better than no video.

I will post it later.

Thanks. LC. out.

 

[markz]

Check out youtube and buy yourself spoke wrench, you dont even need a true'ing stand.

$200 is quite expensive, It's probably $150 at a bike store, but again you dont need it. You can actually make your own!
https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Mechanic-Wheel-Truing/dp/B000LNW2OS/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=wheel+truing+stand&qid=1614472916&sr=8-4

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns.

The cable I made to hook up the 13S pack was done wrong. Also the video with the cheap camera was not even worth posting.

I guess I have to bring that bike up and cut off the bullets and solder on an XT60 connecter. I also thought about it and really do not feel like waiting a month or so to get that front wheel on the 26" dual suspension fixed. I want to run the brand new 36V 1,000W motor now. Also if I remove the front motor and brackets it will be a lot lighter to get down the stairs.

I want to get at least one good 26" mountain bike running. The way the Currie is designed mounting a motor on the back behind the seat post with a base on it is very difficult. The 36V 1,000W motor has no base and more room to mount it. It is an upgrade from the 750W gear reduction motor. If I do get the Bafang motors to work I can put one on the front of the 26" dual suspension as well as the Currie. But if they do not work it is no big deal as the 26" dual suspension has the 1,000W direct drive on the back and is getting a sensor less controller as even though the sensor wires are working now I do not trust those thin wires or my solder job on them. I do better solder work on 16 gauge wire not 30 gauge or whatever those sensor wires are. It will make the 26" dual suspension 100 times more reliable as well as lighter.

I will have the Currie running as well as the 26" dual suspension and both will be reliable. The 1,800W brushless motor was running and all of a sudden no power. I am not sure if it is the cheap controller or what. It can not be a fuse as I am using a 60 amp DC breaker. I will have to bring it up the stairs. I might just uninstall the motor. Not sure. I wish the 1,800W brushless motor did not have a base on it. I would really like to put the 1,800W brushless motor on the Currie and the 1,000W 36V brush motor on the 20" bike that has the 1,800W brushless motor on it now. Not sure but will make a decision soon.


Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

Well there is one theme in the post, a lot of negatives. I highlited them for you.

was done wrong.
not even worth posting.
cut off the bullets and solder on an XT60 connecter.
do not feel like waiting a month or so to get that front wheel on the 26" dual suspension fixed.
it is very difficult.
has no base and more room to mount it.
I do not trust those thin wires or my solder job on them.
I do better solder work on 16 gauge wire not 30 gauge or whatever those sensor wires are.
all of a sudden no power.
I am not sure if it is the cheap controller or what.
It can not be a fuse as I am using a 60 amp DC breaker.
Not sure.
I wish the 1,800W brushless motor did not have a base on it.
could be stronger than the HARO V3.
not sure.
could get the 1,800W brushless motor
and the Currie could get the 3 kilowatt brushless motor if I can mount it with that base.
Maybe I could order a replacement Currie rack.

Everyone always says I never listen to advice so I will let all the members who follow this post to make that decision for me. I will go by a majority vote. Should the Currie get the 3 kilowatt motor or the Haro V3. ? If I put the 3 kilowatt motor on the Currie then the Haro will get the 1,800W motor as I want the 1,000W - 36V brush motor on the 20" bike.

For prosperity reasons I left the last paragraph in full. I will put my vote in to install a hub motor onto which ever bicycle fits you the best.

 

[latecurtis]

Well. I already have the 1,000W hub motor on the 26" dual suspension.

The Bafang motors don't even work so until I get the two new controllers from wish.com I can't use them.

Not sure about hub motor controllers. The only way I can run the Bafang motors before April is one of my brushless controllers. If I were to take the 1,800W motor off the 20" bike and install the 1,000W brush motor that is on the front of the 26" dual suspension I could maybe hook up the Bafang motors to the 1,500W controller but would be too much power. I am not even sure the amps but it will do 36V. That is what I have been running it with. If it even still works.

My question is can I run both Bafang motors with one brushless controller ? And if I did and the controller was say 30 amps and the two Bafang motors were hooked up in parallel would each Bafang motor get 15 amps ?????

If so then I could run both Bafang motors on the Currie and uninstall the rear chain drive. However then what am I supposed to do with the three chain drive motors I am not using. Throw them all out ????? That would seem like a huge waste of money.

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

would be too much power. I am not even sure the amps but it will do 36V.

There is no such thing as to much power. Only to much amp draw from battery.

My question is can I run both Bafang motors with one brushless controller ? And if I did and the controller was say 30 amps and the two Bafang motors were hooked up in parallel would each Bafang motor get 15 amps ?????

No, you can not run two motors with one controller.

If so then I could run both Bafang motors on the Currie and uninstall the rear chain drive. However then what am I supposed to do with the three chain drive motors I am not using. Throw them all out ????? That would seem like a huge waste of money.

Who knows what your suppose to do with 3 chain motors, you bought them so you could sell them. Or try selling them already installed on the bicycle but the buyer would want a cleaner job overall.

 

[DrkAngel]

The bike shop did not do that great of a job either with truing the wheel after lacing it to a new rim.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5U62KQKc1EM&feature=youtu.be

Confirm that tire is properly seated ?

Also the front wheel with the 89 tooth sprocket is not trued right either and I paid them to do it. The chain drive does work but a lot of movement of the wheel and at high speeds the chain could come off. That is not my fault but a piss poor job by the bike shop.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3gyLea8p7J8&feature=youtu.be

Axle appears to be bent ?

 

[99t4]

Everyone always says I never listen to advice so I will let all the members who follow this post to make that decision for me. I will go by a majority vote. Should the Currie get the 3 kilowatt motor or the Haro V3. ? If I put the 3 kilowatt motor on the Currie then the Haro will get the 1,800W motor as I want the 1,000W - 36V brush motor on the 20" bike.

OK somehow I missed that but maybe this will help:

Let's try to clarify your goals. Without clear goals you're like a plastic bag blowing around in the wind. Every day haphazard and something different. Put something together then end up ripping it back apart. Gotta set the objective and then make a plan to get there.

(Maybe I was mistaken but) I thought you were trying to build a 40 MPH ebike on a tight budget. That's going to be real difficult unless you cut corners in several places. And there are probably not many here that can (or would want to) offer too much help on that.

Then I got confused did you change your plan, looked like a 89 MPH e-moto or something?

Hoping you don't take this the wrong way, in case you have anger mgt. issues, but I am not trying to criticize your work to say I am better than you, but rather to find your goals so people can help you achieve them.

Do you study any of the other subforums or other threads here on E-S? It is a tremendous resource, just studying how others are progressing in their projects and coming up with great ingenious methods has opened up my own horizons.

You have obviously attained a lot of valuable experience building several capable ebikes from scratch. :thumb: I have not even gotten very far on my first. Need battery and donor bike (lost a bidding war on the perfect donor today).

Anyway, since you seem to be going around in circles here, I thought it would help to restate your goals and see if your supporters can help you find a path toward them.

 

[markz]

Curtis just needs one really good ebike to get him to Walmart, the grocery store and the liquor store. I'd say the town he lives in is quite flat, few hills if any, a distance of 25 miles with a portable charger. Throw on a front basket capable of holding say a 24 can pack. Laptop chargers are good, two of them to charge up a split 36V pack at 8A. They are usually set to 20.50V, so its under volted a tad. But you wont be stranded if you run out of juice and to tired to pedal and just want a Grande Mocha from the Starbucks lady with red hair and a nose ring. Seriously I rarely pull that move, drinking my Raspberry Lime Club Soda, I just steal Starbucks electricity.