new eZip motor

[latecurtis]

Well I am glad to hear from you. I just won my first race against a gas powered bike Saturday evening and the hub motor kit you sent me was on the back with a 1,000W brush chain drive on the front so together they out run the gas bike for a short distance. About 250 to 300 feet I think. Not sure. It was a parking lot and raced two light poles. I posted the video but was far away so not clear but shows I was way ahead at start of the race. It proves my point that two motors is better than one as doubt either motor would have won running solo.

I know I am good with windows paint but never used CAD. I am not familiar with it but will definably check it out. My first 3D print project if I get one is building solderless cell holders for 18650 cells. I have about 200 or so cells and interested in ordering more for a couple 10S - 6P packs and a 13S - 10P and a 16S - 20P pack. Tomorrow when the liquid electric tape is dry I will wrap regular electric tape over the top of the bolts top and bottom. then a piece of gorilla tape so that there is no way a bolt can loosen up. Each connection was tested several times before wrapping the wire around the bolts. They will stack on top each other with no chance of shorting out.

I have been using corner molding which is a couple bucks a foot and small nuts and bolts , Gorilla glue and hot glue. zip ties and electrical tape. That is my first 1S - 6P pack. 9 more to go for 10S - 6P and have a BMS to hook up to it. The pictures in my previous post shows how I counter sunk the nuts in the wood. the picture below shows the top nut. I probably did not need two nuts but wrapped wire around the bolt so the second nut is to keep the connection firm.

I want to 3D print plastic holders and have the holes threaded if possible. I wont need as many nuts. Also should not require expensive filler material as wont be under high stress situations.

thanks and hope you can post again soon.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. 18650 packs.



They are stackable. completely insulated and safe from short circuits.

That is 1S - 6P so 9 more will complete the first 10S - 60 cell pack with a BMS. After that it is 6P and looking at 13S , 14S or 15S simply by stacking. Two 6S - 10P in series with 1S - 10p for 13S - 10P. I can balance charge 6S packs with my two LiPo chargers.

I could also build 3S - 10P packs for 15S - 10P I will need connecters for series connections. I will just need to unplug and charge separately. I have a parallel board for one charger which is 1 to 3S and might buy a 1 to 6S for the other LiPo charger. If fact Dan sent me a 6S parallel board awhile ago I might be able to get new connecters for but might buy a new one as they are cheap. I also have two 10S chargers I can use for the 10S - 6P pack with the BMS.

I like the hub motor DA. posted awhile ago that was 1,500W but am seriously considering a cro - motor or QS motor that can do 18S and 3 to 5 kilowatts. I want 45 mph minimum when I order a hub motor so am looking at 72V. 18 * 4.2V = 75.6V.

I need a bunch more of those nuts and bolts the exact size. I will need to go to a hardware store as Wall-Mart is out of that size.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

I mean seriously, you can't go wrong with duct tape, no matter what color it is.

Not to mention the single strip of red electrical tape wrapped around twice, its a nice touch.
The contrast between the colors 'n all.

Maybe you'll win more races in the parking lot with more voltage, maybe get to the 4th light post.

Working your way up to 45kw or power

 

[latecurtis]

Maybe you'll win more races in the parking lot with more voltage, maybe get to the 4th light post.

Working your way up to 45kw or power

Thanks man.

I like positive input when I get it.

I was on my way to Home Depot last night but forgot cash and was searching for an Allpoint ATM for my second account where my stimuli's goes. (my old account from NY.) so I did not get charged 6 bucks and my Google maps sent me on a wild goose chase and ended up 5 miles from the Depot so just went home. I did not even finish one can of beer so went to bed early. I needed to take care of a few things today.

My ATM card on my main checking account was left in the machine and had to call the bank to pick it up. I discovered it on Saturday and was not 100% positive where it was so they put a temporary block on it. I got an e mail and my car insurance payment did not go thru. I have to pick up my card and call insurance today to get back on auto pay as they deleted my info.

Also my Wish.com order came thru. It was scheduled for April 1. I ordered two controllers for those Bafang motors because the wiring diagram was simple. I had them shipped to some store here in Canton Ohio so need to do a Google search to locate it. I also need to find my cell phone as might need that to show them the bar code. I will post again later if I get the controllers.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

How many different places have you ordered your various controllers from?

 

[latecurtis]

How many different places have you ordered your various controllers from?

E bay. , Amazon and Wish.com.

I just picked the two controllers from Wish so will know sometime tonight if those Bafang motors work. I rode the 26" dual suspension around today and put at least 10 miles on it.

I adjusted the chain line up and tension on the front when I got home outside. I think it was a little too tight. I moved the motor a little and worked on it a good hour and think I got it a lot better. However there is no way I am trusting that front chain to do 30 mph. Maybe 25 mph.

The chain is tight when not moving but when accelerating I see slack. The motor has a lot of power and when I use both the hub motor and chain drive I notice the slack is not as bad as the chain drive is not doing all the work. Basically it is a heavy beast and hauling close to 200 cells with the 13S - 7P and 10S - 10P packs. Also I am at least 225 possibly 230. The bike is steel and heavy anyway.

The hub motor is hooked to a 53V - 13S pack though. I notice is has little power and torque up to 3/4 throttle. The hub motor don't really kick in until after 3/4 throttle. I found a trick though that makes it really fast. I did not want to push it though but the way I got the throttles close together if I press both throttles 3/4 way and then push the hub motor throttle all the way and keep the chain drive at 3/4 it keeps accelerating crazy fast.

The best way to get 30 mph safely for a decent length of time is to remove the front chain drive and replace with a belt drive. If I can do that that bike will be a lot better. It is the way it is designed. The chain is just too long. The shorter the chain from the motor to wheel sprocket the better for high speed applications.

Basically the way I plan on mounting the 3 kilowatt brushless motor on the Currie the chain will be a lot shorter. Just long enough that the motor sprocket has enough chain to work. About half the length or less than the front drive with the #25H chain. Also I am using 8mm chain which is a lot stronger as the chain is thicker and the links are closer together.

However I might want to belt drive also with that. I will have to see. I already have the chain and motor sprocket but not the wheel sprocket. I wanted to do a belt drive years ago but could not find the exact parts to order. I will need to replace the 11T - #25 motor sprocket with a pully that will hook to the motor shaft somehow and figure out what is required to replace the wheel sprocket.

I saw something that attached to the spokes a few years ago but like a spoke sprocket it has a tendency to warp the rim over time and that is not good. I know the guy downstairs that has a gas bike replaced his rim twice since I lived here in 18 months. I am hoping I can either find something that can bolt to the 89T - #25 sprocket or a disk brake rotor. I will defiantly need all the help I can get. I really want to go 40 mph but not with a chain drive.

I hope someone will know exactly what parts I will need to convert from chain to belt. It is basically just 3 parts. The motor pully , the belt and the sheath or whatever it is called that replaces the motor sprocket. and I wont have to uninstall the motor. Just loosen the steel straps that hold it to the motor bracket. I did that earlier to try and make the chain straighter and run better. I can move the motor left and right and unhook the chain that way.

If I can get a link to the right parts and the gear ratio is equal to the chain drive.



Then it should run much better. Basically the 1,000W hub motor seemed to be twice as fast when I first got it but had it on a light frame. I was only running 44V 12S LiPo and am now running 13S - 7P. It could be the throttle but looks just like the throttle I had before. Running the hub motor solo it just don't come to life until 3/4 throttle. Like I said a lot of weight. Probably 50 pounds heavier than the Trek with the LiPos before.

However if I can get a solid belt drive that can make a big difference. I did win a race going full throttle (both throttles). At some point after 3/4 throttle they seem to start working together and is almost like shifting gears. I do not think the gas bike could have caught up and may have won at 4 light poles but would bet on three if the gas bike had higher gears to shift to.

I will post later if I get one of the Bafang motors to work. I really hope someone knows exactly what parts to order for a belt drive set up. Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

The chain is tight when not moving but when accelerating I see slack.

That means there is flex in the setup, most likely its your handy work not the frame flexing.

Did you not also buy from Aliexpress EVFitting Greentime?

 

[latecurtis]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jECkoJ0ZS7M

Well. The noise at the start of that video is a hint the alignment is slightly off. It is easy to move the motor left to right but not so much left side up/down , right side up/down.

It was still accelerating in the video but rail road tracks were ahead and had to slow down plus I did not trust the chain.

I shot that video before I got back home and worked on it. There was not as much noise after that. Just a slight thud when it actually kicked in but not nearly as loud after that. My last run after the adjustments could have been 30 mph. Not sure.

I just know with a belt drive set up it should be much better and will be able to operate it at 30 mph without danger of a chain coming off and maybe flipping the bike. That would suck and could end really badly. Like a broken neck.

I really want a belt drive. It should be possible. Other people have built them. It should not even be that expensive to convert. I would have done it years ago but HATE ordering the wrong parts that do not work. I wasted way too much money ordering stuff I could not use for one reason or another.

My motor sprocket is 10 mm dual D bore shaft. The wheel is a standard 26" rim.

I could really use some help on this.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

In that video, is your throttle wide open the entire time?

I really want a belt drive.

How much is that going to cost you in belt itself and the belt gears.

 

[latecurtis]

In that video, is your throttle wide open the entire time?

No way. Not even close. I gradually accelerated. Lightly and slowly. I did not reach full throttle but from 24 to 28 mph pushed down more with the hub motor throttle than the chain drive as the chain will not spin faster with the hub motor at full throttle and wont spin at all if I let off the throttle as the motor sprocket is like a freewheel. I may have been close to full throttle with the hub motor but about 3/4 with the chain drive.

If I get a belt drive set up properly it should do at least 30 mph. I believe the hub motor can do 28 mph at 48V. I am running 53V and the chain drive according to the top gear sprocket calculator from electric scooter parts is almost exactly 28 mph @ 36V but should be 42V fully charged and could have been 40V in the video as I rode a few miles before I shot the video.

I know once I start building custom packs with a belt drive I could run 12S - 48 - 44V to the front chain drive which is 1,000W@36V and give the rear hub motor 16S or 60V but would have to change the hub motor controller. I probably wont though as I have other bikes to do that with, I would just be happy with a belt set up for the front on that bike.

How much is that going to cost you in belt itself and the belt gears.

It should not be a lot. It will definatlly be too much if I order the wrong parts though. It is why I gave up on the idea before. Also I can always use the 89T sprocket , chain and 11T motor sprocket for a different build < 30 mph.

It wont be a waste of money.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

Sheeeeeeesh
What self control you have there.
I wouldnt be able to do that :lol:

No way. Not even close. I gradually accelerated. Lightly and slowly.

 

[Sunder]

It should not be a lot. It will definatlly be too much if I order the wrong parts though. It is why I gave up on the idea before. Also I can always use the 89T sprocket , chain and 11T motor sprocket for a different build < 30 mph.

It wont be a waste of money.

You know belt drives need custom frames, because you can't break a belt like you can break a chain, right?

It won't be just the gears and the belts that cost you.

 

[latecurtis]

You know belt drives need custom frames, because you can't break a belt like you can break a chain, right?

It won't be just the gears and the belts that cost you.

Custom frame.

I don't get it. Why ?

It is a 1,000W motor. Not a 2 or 3 kilowatt motor.

I might need a custom frame for a cro motor and should consider it for the 3 killowatt motor but converting to a belt drive wont make the motor put out any more power. It will just keep the chain from coming off at 30 mph and flipping the bike.

Anyway I have a bad Bafang motor or something. I have been hooking hub motors up for years and have experience with two geared e bikeling and two direct drives over 1 horsepower and never seen anything like this.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BPRDIYdd8AI

I would really like to know what is going on with this motor. It just does not make any sense.

Please let me know. If I cant fix it my options are to ship to someone for parts or throw it in the dumpster. I did not try the other motor yet. That one is the one the bike shop trued.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eBeX0vpGMGs

That is the other Bafang motor. Both are basically doing the same thing. Everything looks like it is hooked up right. I bought two identical controllers as they were both 11 bucks each.


Please someone tell me what I should do.

Thanks.

LC. out.

I ordered those controllers as they are simple to hook up. Also 16 amps is about exactly what those motors are designed for. I looked everything up and they are 350 watt motors and the controllers are 350 watts. I just do not get it. There must be some wires I need to hook together coming from the controller.

I posted the wiring diagram that was available and looked at before ordering them. I do not see instructions though. I really need this mystery solved. I still have a greentime controller coming but is like 1,000 watts. I cant use that it will destroy the motor. I did order 1 other 350 watt controller though but am still waiting on it.



That is basically my last hope. It is kind of like the 2,000W 12 to 50 volt variable brush controllers I used to run back in NY only this one is 350W and brushless and sensor less.

Please someone let me know if there is a plug or something which needs to be connected. This is BS. I am irate.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[99t4]

You know belt drives need custom frames, because you can't break a belt like you can break a chain, right?

It won't be just the gears and the belts that cost you.

Custom frame.

I don't get it. Why ?

If you don't need to open the chain to thread it thru the frame (rear triangle) then don't worry, belt no problem for you.

Anyway, what is the matter with chain? You are selling out on chain too easy:

What did that one do? 110+mph? :wink:

 

[latecurtis]

Anyway, what is the matter with chain? You are selling out on chain too easy:

Not really. It is just the unorthodox design of my front chain drive. There is a lot of distance or length of chain and at 30 or 30+ mph a lot that can go wrong. Also I paid 40 bucks for the rim but was not perfectly straight.

Yes there is almost always other options like chain guards and chain tensioners but is #25H chain. It will probably be ok at speeds up to 25 mph but that bike is geared for 30 mph. Actually the front motor is geared for 28 mph at 36V and the rear 28 mph at 48V but running 10S - 8P there should not be much voltage SAG at 42 or 41V and the hub motor is getting 53V so with SAG is probably 51 or 52V. It is a 30 mph bike all day long.

The video shows 28 mph and had more to go. I slowed down as am carful especially in the city and railroad tracks are rough. I had a camera and cell phone both which would have got broken if I ran over those tracks at 25+ mph.

Also I always wanted a belt drive. I just never knew exactly what parts to order. The other reason is I can't seem to get a perfect 100% alignment and perfect tension. A belt drive will be more forgiving. I really would like to convert it.

Now can someone please tell me what the hell is up with the controller. It looks like the Bafang motors are not the issue as both motors are doing about the same thing. The power is just cutting out for some reason. Usually with brake sensors the default mode is to leave them unhooked. This is something I never encountered. I need some help here please.

I used the solderless connecters DA. posted and wrapped tape over them. I did not want to cut any plugs off the controllers but used spade connecters for the hot and ground wires with hot glue so they can not come out and short circuit. I re hooked up the three throttle wires thinking it was a loose connection. I used 18 gauge wire the second time instead or the thin 24 guage the throttle wires are as it needed to be longer and the solderless connecters also. The ends were short and twisted and inserted firmly into the plug with no bare wires showing. I pushed the wires all the way in and used hot glue and tape to hold them firmly in place. I know it is NOT any loose connection on my part so it must be something needs to be hooked up. What else could it be ?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BPRDIYdd8AI

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eBeX0vpGMGs

Both motors do about the same BS. I am totally disgusted Does anyone know what's up ???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[Sunder]

You know belt drives need custom frames, because you can't break a belt like you can break a chain, right?

It won't be just the gears and the belts that cost you.

Custom frame.

I don't get it. Why ?

I was thinking conventional belt drive. The way you mount your motors, you should be fine.

 

[markz]

I dont know how much current those spade connectors can handle, they are made for automotive use. They'll be fine for everything except phase wires.

Your motors probably have phases touching, or the hall sensors are messed up not having the right combo.
Thats why I like sensorless controllers, just hook up the self learn wires and get the right direction, maybe leave it for a bit of time. And also twist the throttle to change the motors direction a few times.

 

[99t4]

...I can't seem to get a perfect 100% alignment and perfect tension. A belt drive will be more forgiving.

Could that be wishful thinking? Cogged belt can be a real PIA to set up successfully. Slight out-of-plane or different axis angle between the cogged pulleys will cause the belt to want to walk off the pulley constantly. Best to study up on it before committing to it.

 

[latecurtis]

I dont know how much current those spade connectors can handle, they are made for automotive use. They'll be fine for everything except phase wires.

No.

I did not use spade connecters. I had an adapter cable that goes from 9 pin from motor to 3 phase and 5 sensor wires to allow use of a NON 9 pin controller without a display module. The sensor wires were a plug and plugged into the plug from the controller.

I did not have a plug for the power (large and small red wire and ground large black wire) I used spade connecters which fit perfectly inside the plug so had to be correct. I just did not have a 3 prong plug and did not want to butcher the controller. I hate cutting off controller plugs. It is what I did with that expensive e bikeling controller. It is why I smashed it with a hammer as I could not return it with plugs cut off.

Also I did not have a throttle with a plug on it. The throttle wires are like thin 24 gauge and tried twisting them and inserting them into the throttle plug from the controller. I re did the three wires after the first attempt to run the motor thinking it was that so I used the solderless connecters DA recommended. I used 18 gauge wire to make the throttle wires longer and twisted the bare ends about 1/4" and firmly inserted them into the plug. Then used hot glue to make sure they did not come out.

I also used the solderless connecters to attach the spade connecters that fit perfect into the three prong power plug from the controller. I used hot glue to make sure they could not come out and short circuit.

At this point all I can do is wait on the greentime controller and the 350 watt sensorless controller I ordered that has a speed control knob or pot. I bought it with the intent of testing brushless motors as it is only 5 wires to hook up. 2 power and 3 phase. If neither of those work then I will either throw out both Bafang motors or ship them out to someone who may need them for spare parts.

DA. suggested hooking the Bafang motors to one of my e bikeling controllers on my Giant Roam build. I am not as already hooked one of the Bafang motors to the $50 e bikeling controller I smashed with a hammer along with the display module a few months ago. It was the same controller and module so why would I unhook a perfect running controller from the e bikeling motor to hook it up to Bafang garbage.

My advice to anyone here on ES is DO NOT buy anything from battery clearing house. They sell cheap Chinese junk. Especially Bafang motors. I will make it my life project to run their reputation into the ground. I got ripped off for $100 by Battery Clearinghouse. I have now tried three different controllers and reluctantly going to try two more.

If I am wrong about Battery clearinghouse. Then I wont drag their reputation thru the mud. We shall see. If nobody can figure out why the motors are not working and the next two controllers do not work either please feel free to spread the word NOT to order anything from Battery Clearinghouse. They sell cheap Chinese garbage. You may as well flush your money down the toilet.

Yea. I am really pissed. It is not just a money issue it is the time I spent for nothing. It is why I need to take a long break from e bikes. I have a couple that run well. I rode the 1,800W brushless motor about 11 miles today and way over 20 mph. I did not have my cell but will be doing a video soon. It was a successful chain drive build. It is an animal.

Thanks

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

As the belt drive turns and the LiPo Fire Burns.

I have been calling and talking with folks in the USA and Canada. I googled custom e bikes.

So many stores and shops who sell e bikes only do factory e bikes and is all they work on. A lot or the majority only deal with stuff they know and are NOT inventive.

There are dozens of kits for mid drives and hub motors are popular.

HOWEVER.

Very few belt drive kits. I know all about the KISS phrase.

Keep it simple stupid.

Most people like a simple installation. It is why hub motor kits are so popular. Also those spoke sprocket kits for gas conversions are very popular. They sell like hot cakes on e bay and Amazon ect.

I believe I have found my niche. Something worthwhile to do. However will need a lot of help. SUNDER said that 3D parts can be printed in plastic and sent out as a mold and professionally printed in metal.

Using the KISS method kits could be printed so conversions are as simple as bolt on. There are only 3 major parts not counting the hardware. The motor sprocket. The wheel sprocket and the belt. It does not get more simple than that. I am not looking to upgrade an existing belt drive that requires removable drop outs or custom frames. I am not looking to build mid belt drives or anything like that. That has been done.

I am looking at kits that anyone handy enough to install a spoke sprocket can simply bolt on the wheel sheath or pully and sell kits with several different sizes. A 3 step kit. The wheel and then remove the motor sprocket and install the pully and the third step will be replacing the chain with a belt.

It sounds impossible and currently would be close to impossible but if designed correctly on a 3D printer could be probable. The plastic parts would be a mold. Not something that could actually work. However once sent out to be professionally printed in steel by an industrial printer the end result should be an easy 1/2 hour installation. It should be as easy as installing a hub motor kit.

If anyone is interested please post. I will not be able to accomplish it on my own. I just have a great idea.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

So many stores and shops who sell e bikes only do factory e bikes and is all they work on. A lot or the majority only deal with stuff they know and are NOT inventive.

They only work on their own stuff, for obvious reasons.


edit

HOWEVER.

Very few belt drive kits.

Yes, and you got to wonder why. Why isnt anyone buying these belt driven kits. Yeah sure I've seen them in the mini gasser motor for bicycles, is it popular who knows. I go with the tried and 100 years of testing and true, bicycle chain. But hey not only that, its a multi-million dollar business just in chains alone, lots of money spent on research, design, quality control...... not so with the belt drive. Just my 2 cents.

My advice to anyone here on ES is DO NOT buy anything from battery clearing house. They sell cheap Chinese junk. Especially Bafang motors. I will make it my life project to run their reputation into the ground. I got ripped off for $100 by Battery Clearinghouse. I have now tried three different controllers and reluctantly going to try two more.

If I am wrong about Battery clearinghouse. Then I wont drag their reputation thru the mud. We shall see. If nobody can figure out why the motors are not working and the next two controllers do not work either please feel free to spread the word NOT to order anything from Battery Clearinghouse. They sell cheap Chinese garbage. You may as well flush your money down the toilet.

I've tried to follow what went wrong with your motor, I lost patience as I am an inpatient dude. But yeah sure its wouldnt be to wild a guess that clearinghouse battery is a dud, but I do believe chalo bought their motors and it worked fine. I would have bought their motor but they do not ship to canada. But I would never have bought their batteries. Go do a search on Chalo experience, type in the user, chalo and batteryclearinghouse and see what comes up.

If that were my motor, I would have started a new thread and taken lots of clear pics with both side covers taken off, and the wiring inside the motor. I would have taken a dmm and measured each wire from winding to outside the axle. I would have slipped each wire back and forth to see if the wires insulation was damaged. I would have checked to see if each strand of the phase wiring was soldered and that the soldering connection was secure to the wire, then using heat shrink to cover up the exposed phase wire strands which might be your case, good to check out. What next would I do, well I wouldnt have worried about the sensor hall wires as I use a sensorless controller. Then of course be careful putting the cover plates back on as I've pinched wires before, so I make it a point to secure all inside wiring to the stator arms. I've also pinched wires coming out of the axle by slipping the cover plate back on. As the phase wires can sometimes bunch up and you not even know it. Phase wires coming out of the axle, bunch up is what I am saying. Take one arm, lift the wires straight up, take your other arm and push the cover plate down, look under the cover plate and if its bunching up take your THIRD arm and force the bucnhed up wires (under the cover plate) force them up or down and do some magic But if your phase wires are all loosy goosy inside the axle, then that might not be a problem. I was trying to stuff 10 or 12awg into my mxus 4kw 45H with ptfe teflon wire which is slippery and lots of fun to play with frustrations can mount, sweat does pour off the eyebrow :lol:

What am I saying you say, well I say take it methodically and step by step from the windings to the controller to the throttle. Remember the less crap you have, the better and I hear you say what do you mean Mr. Bossman MarkZ, I mean who needs displays and PAS anyways, and brake lever cutoffs.

 

[ksbk]

Hi,
Regardng your two presently non-functioning hub motors. I beleive if you were to use these sensored/sensorless controllers or smilar https://www.ebay.com/itm/Motor-Elec...154612?hash=item596193a234:g:cCgAAOSwJnxf8~nu then they would work fine.

To do a very simple test of the hub motors when they are disconnected, make sure no phase wires are touching and the wheel should spin freely. Then touch each phase wire to another in turn and spin the wheel. There should be noticable drag when each phase wire is connected to another. You do not need to do anything with the hall wires as they will not be used. This will give a basic test and confirm it is worth connecting the controllers to the hub.

The controllers couldnt be simpler as there is a 'self learn' pair of white wires that you briefly connect together to determine correct rotation. There is no need to connect the throttle and hall leads yet. So, after connectng the 3 phase leads, the main bat pos/neg, and the switch wire(thin red to bat pos thick red in 3 wire term block), you connect the two white self learning wires together and the wheel will spin very slowly. If the wheel spins the right way disconnect the thin red switch wire and then unplug the white wires and leave them. If the wheel spins the wrong way then while it is still running unplug and then re-plug the white wires together. The wheel will spin in the other (correct rotaton) direction and you can then switch off and unplug the white wires. This will then show both the hubs and controllers are doing what they should up tp this point.

With the controller switched on, you can now check you have approx 4-5v showing on your multi meter when you test the small red and black leads in the 3 pin throttle plug on the controller. If all is well then correctly connect the throttle plug leads with the leads on the controller and away you go!!

 

[markz]

That test is for direct drive motors and not geared motors.
But measuring phase-to-phase resistance can show hidden problems in the phase wires.

https://ebikes.ca/learn/troubleshooting.html

Just do an online search how to measure phase to phase resistance.

 

[latecurtis]

As the hub motor turns and the LiPo Fire Burns.

Yea.

I talked to a guy in Canada that builds custom e bikes. He is reaally good. He built an e bike for Snoop Dog. The famous rapper.

If I survive long enough and they open up the boarder and I get the vaccine I will be going to Canada to have the guy help me build a Death Bike with the FX-75-5 motor.

I might also be buying a 3 killowatt hub motor. he said it is $300 but not sure about shipping. He builds hub motors I think. I think he said 50 or 55 mph so could be 3 killowatts nominal and 5 killowatts peak. Not sure.

I got battery pack #2 done ready for a charge. 1S - 6P.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t0HFTTafuF4



Hopefully by the time I get a 10S - 6P - pack built for my 16 amp BMS I will have a 3D printer. I have not gave up on that. I know I should be able to build 18650 battery building kits out of plastic. It will be much better than the VRUZEND kits.

https://vruzend.com/

Those are cheap plastic garbage. I had one and the plastic melted. Complete garbage. I know my kits will be better and easier to assemble. That is the first thing my 3D printer will do. After that I would like to print parts for a simple belt drive conversion. A pully that bolts to a freewheel like a freewheel sprocket but a belt. It will be designed so a belt can not slip off the pully.



I could do the same thing for the motor pulley but maybe 3/4". That way the belt can not slide off. It should not be rocket science. Just not sure if plastic would be strong enough. I might be able to use plastic for the 1 inch sides and most of the wheel pulley but the center part that bolts to the freewheel really needs to be steel.

The same goes for the motor pulley. The part that attaches to the motor shaft needs to be steel but the actual pulley wheel could be plastic as long as it is hard high impact quality plastic like what the plastic the gears in a geared hub motor are made of.

Realistically though all the parts will probably be steel and I will just be creating molds in plastic on my 3D printer and then send them out to be printed in steel. Not sure. I know that I really want to do it but know I probably wont be able to accomplish such feats on my own. I am going to need help.

It should be something that many people who build e bikes would want. I have researched belt drive systems and the smooth transition of power compared to chain is desirable. Also a good carbon belt can last 5 times longer or more than a chain and safer as a chain can come off and hurt someone like Dan mentioned many times or in my front drive actually flip the bike if it gets caught in the spokes. The other thing is belt drive e bikes are quieter and more stealthy. No oil is required and way easier to install than having to deal with chain breakers and master links.

I hope I can get some help with designing belt drive conversion kits.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

This seems like an appropriate thread to read up on; Calling all Belt Drive Experts
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=97490&p=1434977&hilit=belt#p1434977