new eZip motor
- Thread starter latecurtis
- Start date
- Status
latecurtis
100 MW
As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns.
7/3
I rode the Shwinn about 7 miles yesterday. The trip was to downtiwn and then uphill mostly to the bike shop and then back home. I did not have the balancer or a Lipo alarm and was a little nervous but all the cells read 3.64 to 3.67V when I got home. I appreciate the performance difference between Lipo and SLA.
The guy at the shop refused to work on it. I was going to put the 80 tooth from the 20" wheel to the 18" one. He said he dont work on e bikes. He said it would not work anyway. I did not lose my temper. When I got home I managed to get the 20" wheel with the sprocket on the front.
I am going to attempt to mount the second motor in front of the one in the pictures and run the chain around both motor sprockets. If it works then it should be just like a single 800W motor and go about 25mph. I will need to order a second 9 tooth motor sprocket if the motors get hot with the 11 tooth sprockets that are on the motors now or if it wont go up hills.
7/4
I figured I would post these pictures of the install before I mount two of my 5"cooling fans. The front end has some weight to it now. the three good 12Ah SLAs will have to go on the back in a basket with the controller on a custom built rack. I have been charging and desulfating an old 12V SLA I got from the scrapper. I am hoping it can be used to run the fans and put it in the front basket..
The motor brackets will help to support it and I will still have room to haul stuff in it. I got a 20" back rim. It is a freewheel set up but the freewheel needs to be replaced. Also the axel on the front wheel is bent and the sprocket seems loose. Both rims will need work. When I replace the axel I want one long enough to screw pegs into for my feet and comfort.
I would like some feedback from the video. I wish I had the right tools and knowledge to fix them myself. The guy at the bike shop said he is not allowed to work on anything electric and I need to go to a scooter store which would cost a lot of money. This could be a big set back if I dont solve it.
Also the electric city bike rescue club are acting like As _ _ _ _ s. They told me we dont work on anything like that here. A lot of people around here dont like e bikes at all including my friend Doug. I need to learn how to change sprockets, straighten wheels ,replace axles and hook up chains myself. Ricky next door will help me for a few bucks but I need to get the right tools.
If it works it is a prototype and subject to upgrades. I was thinking about a pair of 3 killowatt Hobby king or Ampflow motors for 50mph. I miss the Currie though and am 100% positive I am ordering that 1500W brushless motor for it. When is the question. I will need that spoke sprocket though as it is a 26" wheel. I will need the exact link or phone # to order it.
My online time is very limited so I dont have time for research and need exact links to order things like special tools and that spoke sprocket deal. Please post and let me know about the sprocket video and any links on videos to fix the wheels. I will be working on a back rack and basket set up next. Thanks.
LC out.
7/3
I rode the Shwinn about 7 miles yesterday. The trip was to downtiwn and then uphill mostly to the bike shop and then back home. I did not have the balancer or a Lipo alarm and was a little nervous but all the cells read 3.64 to 3.67V when I got home. I appreciate the performance difference between Lipo and SLA.
The guy at the shop refused to work on it. I was going to put the 80 tooth from the 20" wheel to the 18" one. He said he dont work on e bikes. He said it would not work anyway. I did not lose my temper. When I got home I managed to get the 20" wheel with the sprocket on the front.
I am going to attempt to mount the second motor in front of the one in the pictures and run the chain around both motor sprockets. If it works then it should be just like a single 800W motor and go about 25mph. I will need to order a second 9 tooth motor sprocket if the motors get hot with the 11 tooth sprockets that are on the motors now or if it wont go up hills.
7/4
I figured I would post these pictures of the install before I mount two of my 5"cooling fans. The front end has some weight to it now. the three good 12Ah SLAs will have to go on the back in a basket with the controller on a custom built rack. I have been charging and desulfating an old 12V SLA I got from the scrapper. I am hoping it can be used to run the fans and put it in the front basket..
The motor brackets will help to support it and I will still have room to haul stuff in it. I got a 20" back rim. It is a freewheel set up but the freewheel needs to be replaced. Also the axel on the front wheel is bent and the sprocket seems loose. Both rims will need work. When I replace the axel I want one long enough to screw pegs into for my feet and comfort.
I would like some feedback from the video. I wish I had the right tools and knowledge to fix them myself. The guy at the bike shop said he is not allowed to work on anything electric and I need to go to a scooter store which would cost a lot of money. This could be a big set back if I dont solve it.
Also the electric city bike rescue club are acting like As _ _ _ _ s. They told me we dont work on anything like that here. A lot of people around here dont like e bikes at all including my friend Doug. I need to learn how to change sprockets, straighten wheels ,replace axles and hook up chains myself. Ricky next door will help me for a few bucks but I need to get the right tools.
If it works it is a prototype and subject to upgrades. I was thinking about a pair of 3 killowatt Hobby king or Ampflow motors for 50mph. I miss the Currie though and am 100% positive I am ordering that 1500W brushless motor for it. When is the question. I will need that spoke sprocket though as it is a 26" wheel. I will need the exact link or phone # to order it.
My online time is very limited so I dont have time for research and need exact links to order things like special tools and that spoke sprocket deal. Please post and let me know about the sprocket video and any links on videos to fix the wheels. I will be working on a back rack and basket set up next. Thanks.
LC out.
latecurtis
100 MW
video wont post. I will try at library Tuesday or Wednesday. I need a back rack. LC out.
ronnieb52
100 W
Well replacing bent axle doesn't require any special tools. Just remove parts on one side and then replace with straight axle.
Good Luck ...
Good Luck ...
DAND214
10 MW
ronnieb52 said:
Make sure you catch all of the ball bearings as they fall.
Dan
latecurtis
100 MW
I tried another bike shop. Since e bikes are illegal no bike shop will touch it. They wont work on it. No bike shop in NY state will. If I get my SSI I will be looking to move to a state where e bikes are legal. I am sick of NY and my drunk, so called friends. Everybody here discriminates against e bikes. I don't want to ride the Schwinn any more because a cop may try to take it from me. I guess they passed a new law against e bikes. I hate NY!
If I get the 20" bike running, a front basket will hide the motors and I can pedal it when I see a cop. I will get a cheap rear mirror so they cant sneak up behind me. I got the chain but will need two back 20" wheels in good condition. The free wheel is very loose and the wheel is not worth fixing. I will need the special tools required to change sprockets. I will also need to put a new sprocket on the Currie when I get the brushless motor for it. Is there a tool kit that has what I need for all types of sprockets ? I am done with e bikes until I get the 20" bike running. Please somebody post the exact link for the tool kit that I will need to change any type of sprocket. Thanks. for posting Dan. I will see if your number is in my messages. If not can you send it again?
I hope someone will post a link. I don't even know what the name of the tools are so I probably wont be able to find it. Also not too many people are posting here any more. Sunder has not posted in a long time. DA and Skalabala haven't lately either. I thought the two motors was really cool. A lot of those motors are in old scooters people throw out. Probably everywhere. If it works it would be a great low budget build for anyone who has the proper tools and a little time on their hands. I love low budget builds. That spoke sprocket would allow those motors to turn any size wheel. I would love an exact link to order those also. Please post if you can. Anyone who reads this. I hope to get a good link for those sprocket pulling tools and any other tools I may need for future builds. I will check this post for links but am taking a break from e bikes for awhile. I am a little disenchanted. Thanks.
LC out.
If I get the 20" bike running, a front basket will hide the motors and I can pedal it when I see a cop. I will get a cheap rear mirror so they cant sneak up behind me. I got the chain but will need two back 20" wheels in good condition. The free wheel is very loose and the wheel is not worth fixing. I will need the special tools required to change sprockets. I will also need to put a new sprocket on the Currie when I get the brushless motor for it. Is there a tool kit that has what I need for all types of sprockets ? I am done with e bikes until I get the 20" bike running. Please somebody post the exact link for the tool kit that I will need to change any type of sprocket. Thanks. for posting Dan. I will see if your number is in my messages. If not can you send it again?
I hope someone will post a link. I don't even know what the name of the tools are so I probably wont be able to find it. Also not too many people are posting here any more. Sunder has not posted in a long time. DA and Skalabala haven't lately either. I thought the two motors was really cool. A lot of those motors are in old scooters people throw out. Probably everywhere. If it works it would be a great low budget build for anyone who has the proper tools and a little time on their hands. I love low budget builds. That spoke sprocket would allow those motors to turn any size wheel. I would love an exact link to order those also. Please post if you can. Anyone who reads this. I hope to get a good link for those sprocket pulling tools and any other tools I may need for future builds. I will check this post for links but am taking a break from e bikes for awhile. I am a little disenchanted. Thanks.
LC out.
latecurtis
100 MW
http://www.ebay.com/itm/05-10-Cobalt-HHR-G5-Electric-Power-Steering-Pump-/291495563340?fits=Model%3ACobalt
You posted this awhile ago. I did research into it and found out that the guy sent someone an empty box. I found the link to order it direct. It looks like the same motor. I was thinking about maybe ordering it for the Currie someday. However would like to do more research on it. I would like DAs opinion as well as yours. It looks like a good deal. I have to pick up my bike at the shop. The shop that refuses to work on it. I tried to PM you but it is not working. Please post when you can. I need a link for those tools. Thanks. LC out.
You posted this awhile ago. I did research into it and found out that the guy sent someone an empty box. I found the link to order it direct. It looks like the same motor. I was thinking about maybe ordering it for the Currie someday. However would like to do more research on it. I would like DAs opinion as well as yours. It looks like a good deal. I have to pick up my bike at the shop. The shop that refuses to work on it. I tried to PM you but it is not working. Please post when you can. I need a link for those tools. Thanks. LC out.
ronnieb52
100 W
Hey, ask Dogman as to which removal tool you need. I bet he would know.
Gregory
100 kW
Most good bike shops will sell a Park Tool Freewheel removal tool. Get the right one for the number of splines on the freewheel.
More useful may be the ones from Grin/ebikes.ca as they have a larger hole allowing it to slip over a hub motor axle in case you need it for the future. Or you can machine out the Park Tool yourself.
More useful may be the ones from Grin/ebikes.ca as they have a larger hole allowing it to slip over a hub motor axle in case you need it for the future. Or you can machine out the Park Tool yourself.
latecurtis
100 MW
Attachments
latecurtis
100 MW
latecurtis
100 MW
As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns.
I have to order the part for pulling sprockets. The shop at least gave me the part number to order it. The bike was not ready anyway. I am building from the top to the bottom. The wheels I need will be last and am almost ready for now. I have to test the controller. I have not tried it since the MY1020 motor got broken. I tested both motors at 12V as soon as I got them.
I got the rack at Wall-Mart for $14. It cost about $50 total for hardware for everything so far. I failed miserably at installing the rack to the seat post. I used gorilla tape because the cheap plastic inserts did not work. It did not work well. It turned easily. The steel brackets did the trick. Very sturdy now. I am still running a couple of bolts thru the seat post for safety so the seat doesn’t move up, down or turn...
The pictures show the modifications I made in the dual motor install. I drilled three slots in the wider metal brackets I cut that the front motor mounts to. The picture shows the top two clearly. This is so I can tighten the chain easily without touching the wheel by pulling upwards on the motor and tightening the bolts. I got the three sprockets to line up perfect as the photo lineup shows clearly when you zoom in on it.
I used a small hand saw and a hack saw to custom fit the milk crate on the rear rack. I plan on using some thick black plastic to cover the controller and batteries which will unhook easily to remove before bringing up or down stairs. This setup will be close to waterproof as the motors will have a basket over them also with plastic in the bottom protecting them from rain.
I got the 9 tooth sprocket in the mail today. I want to run the motors with the 11 tooth sprockets that are on there and if the motors run hot I will order two more 9 tooth sprockets. That way I will have an extra one for the next Currie motor. If the razor motors run good I can put the 9 tooth on one of the 5600rpm brushless motors which will be the Currie motor upgrade. That is what this post is called.
I was wondering about the wheel sprocket formula DA posted and the sprocket calculator. The stock Currie 450W motor and wheel sprocket only went about 15mph@24V , but when I upgraded to 36V I got at least 25mph without changing any sprockets. Since rpm increases when voltage increases at what rpm do you calculate the sprocket for? The rpm before adding voltage or the rpm at maximum voltage?
At 24V the rpm on the razor motors is a lot lower and better suited to the 11 tooth motor sprocket and 80 tooth wheel sprocket I am using . Running it at 36V may simply increase the speed by 66% which is what effectively what happened with the Currie motor when upgrading to 36V from 24V.
I calculated on the sprocket calculator at the library yesterday that the next Currie motor at 5600rpm with the 9 tooth motor sprocket I got today and the 26" wheel and a 90 tooth wheel sprocket which is the largest one bay and got close to or over 40mph I think. A 114 tooth was required for 35mph with a 1,500W motor.
I plan on running it at 72V though when I order three more SLAs. This is an important question as unless someone posts an exact link for that clear plastic sprocket thud posted I will have to go with the largest sprocket one bay and that would be a 90 tooth #25.
The rpm will be considerably greater at 72V requiring a larger sprocket. At the same time 72V = 2,250W which = 40mph. The 9 tooth and 90 tooth = 40mph or greater I think but at 5600rpm and 48V. I hope DA will post and clear this up. I am confused on this.
If I don’t get answers that make sense I will go by how hot the motors get and the performance factor. I am a serious e bike builder. I want to get this 20" build finished so I can move on to the 40mph Currie upgrade... please let my know about the sprocket calculations . Thanks everybody and please post if you can.
LC out.
I have to order the part for pulling sprockets. The shop at least gave me the part number to order it. The bike was not ready anyway. I am building from the top to the bottom. The wheels I need will be last and am almost ready for now. I have to test the controller. I have not tried it since the MY1020 motor got broken. I tested both motors at 12V as soon as I got them.
I got the rack at Wall-Mart for $14. It cost about $50 total for hardware for everything so far. I failed miserably at installing the rack to the seat post. I used gorilla tape because the cheap plastic inserts did not work. It did not work well. It turned easily. The steel brackets did the trick. Very sturdy now. I am still running a couple of bolts thru the seat post for safety so the seat doesn’t move up, down or turn...
The pictures show the modifications I made in the dual motor install. I drilled three slots in the wider metal brackets I cut that the front motor mounts to. The picture shows the top two clearly. This is so I can tighten the chain easily without touching the wheel by pulling upwards on the motor and tightening the bolts. I got the three sprockets to line up perfect as the photo lineup shows clearly when you zoom in on it.
I used a small hand saw and a hack saw to custom fit the milk crate on the rear rack. I plan on using some thick black plastic to cover the controller and batteries which will unhook easily to remove before bringing up or down stairs. This setup will be close to waterproof as the motors will have a basket over them also with plastic in the bottom protecting them from rain.
I got the 9 tooth sprocket in the mail today. I want to run the motors with the 11 tooth sprockets that are on there and if the motors run hot I will order two more 9 tooth sprockets. That way I will have an extra one for the next Currie motor. If the razor motors run good I can put the 9 tooth on one of the 5600rpm brushless motors which will be the Currie motor upgrade. That is what this post is called.
I was wondering about the wheel sprocket formula DA posted and the sprocket calculator. The stock Currie 450W motor and wheel sprocket only went about 15mph@24V , but when I upgraded to 36V I got at least 25mph without changing any sprockets. Since rpm increases when voltage increases at what rpm do you calculate the sprocket for? The rpm before adding voltage or the rpm at maximum voltage?
At 24V the rpm on the razor motors is a lot lower and better suited to the 11 tooth motor sprocket and 80 tooth wheel sprocket I am using . Running it at 36V may simply increase the speed by 66% which is what effectively what happened with the Currie motor when upgrading to 36V from 24V.
I calculated on the sprocket calculator at the library yesterday that the next Currie motor at 5600rpm with the 9 tooth motor sprocket I got today and the 26" wheel and a 90 tooth wheel sprocket which is the largest one bay and got close to or over 40mph I think. A 114 tooth was required for 35mph with a 1,500W motor.
I plan on running it at 72V though when I order three more SLAs. This is an important question as unless someone posts an exact link for that clear plastic sprocket thud posted I will have to go with the largest sprocket one bay and that would be a 90 tooth #25.
The rpm will be considerably greater at 72V requiring a larger sprocket. At the same time 72V = 2,250W which = 40mph. The 9 tooth and 90 tooth = 40mph or greater I think but at 5600rpm and 48V. I hope DA will post and clear this up. I am confused on this.
If I don’t get answers that make sense I will go by how hot the motors get and the performance factor. I am a serious e bike builder. I want to get this 20" build finished so I can move on to the 40mph Currie upgrade... please let my know about the sprocket calculations . Thanks everybody and please post if you can.
LC out.
latecurtis
100 MW
I cant PM anybody. I get (The requested users to be added do not exist.) What kind of BS is that. I was hoping DA would look at my recent posts and let me know about the sprockets. I have specific questions that I need answers for. I also posted the video on the free wheels today. I got rid of the one that spun in both directions. I am out of money for the month. I will have to wait until the first of August to order the sprocket puller and find two good 20" back rims with good free wheels. I am very disenchanted. Everything else is ready and now I am on time out again. Please post whenever you can. I will be back here tomorrow. Thanks.
LC out.
LC out.
latecurtis
100 MW
That is the picture of the sprockets lining up. Now all I need is a good freewheel to put the 80 tooth sprocket on. I put a considerable amount of time, work and money on this build. Da is mad about multiple posts but the last two pages on this post cover all my work and progress on this build. It is still a low budget build. Under $200. I will post a video whenever I get the wheels done. It probably wont be until about a month from now. Post if you can. Thanks.
LC out.
latecurtis
100 MW
As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns.
I have been running the Schwinn with the front kit a lot this month. Three trips to the Home Depot and a few trips down town and the doctor. I recharged them three times with the Lilo balance feature. The last two times I ran them down to about 3.65 to 3.67V per cell. I enjoy the comfort of the bike and the performance of the Lipo packs.
I am going back to walking to the gym now for awhile. E bikes are great but nothing beats walking to lose a few pounds. I lost 9 pounds so far this year since going to the gym. I am at 242 now and hope to get down to 225. With a 50" chest and 18" arms. They are close to that now but I need to get down to a size 38 waist to start looking good. Those are my new profile pictures. I am 50 years old.
My power lifting days are long gone. I will never bench 375lbs again like back in 95 or push 225 for 21 reps. but I can still try to get back in decent shape. That is the reason the disk in my back is totally shot. Squatting 425 for reps. A rotator cuff injury doomed any chance for bench press competition and the knee was screwed up in a car accident in the 80s and I should have never tried powerlifting in the first place.
I am limited to upper body at the gym as I need back and knee sugary. Disk replacement and total knee replacement. Fortunately I can walk and do the treadmill for cardio now on my good days. I just cant do uphill pedaling, squats or anything like that. If I re-injure anything it will be over for me. I wont have no choice but surgery to walk. My body is pretty much shot.
Bending my knee even close to a 45% angle is very painful and most days it takes about two hours before the arthritis pain in my back goes away and I can function normally. I cant just hop out of bed and do things. That's why I applied for SSI. I talked to my mother and she has the same problem plus had back surgery. It did not help much. I am scared of surgery. . Real scared! I don't want any part of it !!
When I do have to go to a doctor or other appointment and dont have time for my back pain to go away it is extremely difficult for me to lug a 26" bike down and back up my stairs. I almost fell and hurt myself bad several times. If I twist my bad knee or fall and hurt my back I will be hauled off in the meat wagon to surgery! That's why I stopped riding the Currie.
I only make it to the gym two or three times a week and only after being up and moving around for awhile. I have missed several important appointments as I was unable to get the Schwinn down stairs. Some days I can barley make it to the library to post in time it hurts so much.
That is why I need the 20" build. It will make my life much easier. A 26" bike is not only heavy it is cumbersome. The turn towards the top is most difficult. I have to fix the walls now or lose my security when I move. The front wheel always hits the step and the back hits the wall throwing me off balance. Not so with the 20" bike!
That is also why I got so pissed off at my landlady for making me take the Currie out of the hall way downstairs. Now I have to push a shopping cart for laundry and to cash in cans. When I grocery shop I am limited to what I can carry in a back pack. I miss my Currie pick up truck. I just want to make it clear the main reason for the 20" build and why I took the motor off the Currie.
The landlady is rich and rides around in her big fat SUV poisoning the air we breath with exhaust fumes. gas engines are what should be illegal not electric bikes. That's why I hate rich people who get paid off by oil companies to make laws that are really stupid. They need to be blasted in the face hard.
I still want to put the landlady's husband in a headlock in front of her and turn his scrawny neck around backwards. I have to go to mental health because of people like that. It is not my fault I am nuts! Its people that cant leave me alone!
It is truly a miracle I haven't returned to state prison! It has been 22 years now. There are no e bikes there !!! A good reason not to go back! Possession of illegal Firearms was my conviction. I never shot anyone though. I just beat people up back then.
I am too old for that stuff now. These days I just want to use my intelligence to build electric bikes and race them some day like LiveForPhysics does. That is my dream. I am also very Pro Green Energy. I am all for saving our environment and cleaning up our planet.
I will get the Diamond back running. The Currie will get the brushless motor and a variable 36 to 72V controller. I will need three new SLAs or six total for 40mph when I want to race the Currie. Normally the Currie and Diamond Back will each get three SLAs.
I will need to get a storage unit close by for the Currie and the Schwinn first though. There is one right next to the gym. I can use a front basket on the Diamond back to haul the SLAs and Lipos home to charge so I can ride all three bikes but only carry the 20" bike up stairs. That is if I ever get any money to do it. Please post when you can. I miss you all. I consider you guys my friends. Thanks.
LC out.
latecurtis
100 MW
Please post when you can. I have been talking with thud on the Hobby king motor post today. I am still waiting on funds to finish the 20" build. Thanks.
LC out.
LC out.
latecurtis
100 MW
latecurtis
100 MW
As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns.
7/13
The video clearly shows the controller works fine and runs both motors. It spins the chain and I would be riding it if the wheel was not totally shot and the sprocket was not all loose. I tried and the chain came off as I expected.
I hooked the chain up myself with no special tools. I broke it with a hammer, screw driver and pliers. Lost the master link clip but still somehow managed to get it together and on the sprockets. The bike shops won’t touch it and all the so called master mechanics around here could do was destroy the MY1020 motor with a hammer and put the sprocket on with a hammer and chisel and screw up the freewheel.
I don’t care how many cars Ricky worked on or how many garages Dave (the guy that busted my motor) worked at, I am smarter than either of them. People around here are blithering ideates. That is why I post here because I am on a higher intellectual level than anyone I know or hang around with. This thing would be rolling if any one who posted here helped me.
After the chain popped off I carried the bike up the stairs with the SLAs in the back and it was still easier to handle than the Schwinn or the Currie was. Just like I stated in my last post. The bike is the perfect size for the stairs I have to deal with. I managed to install both motors and hook them to the controller. I even made the chain work without the correct tools. I have done everything I can but have not succeeded. The rim is too bent and the sprocket is too loose.
I was talking to Thud about one of those plastic sprockets for the Currie and that 1,500W brushless motor today on the Hobby King motor post... There is no sense in that though unless I have a better option for the Currie than hauling it up stairs.
The little bike is what I need running now. Not big bikes. That is why the entire Diamond Back build is on this post. I put it here so DA, Dan , Sunder, Mark, Skabalanka. (hope I got that right) and everyone else who posts here could see it. The other posts I did were about things no one wanted to discuss on this post like 10 kilowatt motors , Hobby king motors and other stuff. That is why I don’t know why nobody is posting here anymore.
I used the razor scooter motors because I did not pay anything for them. I figured two would be better than one for the amount of weight and work being done. I got a 9 tooth but need two and also was told it might be too small to use. I am not sure.
All I really know is I need two good rear wheels. One for the motor sprocket and one for pedal. I also need a Park tools FR-6 sprocket pulling tool. That is if the new rims I get are the same as the one I have that is bent in the video. I may need two different pulling tools. I am using the 80 tooth that was on the Currie. The biggest one from e bay is a 90 unless someone knows of one larger.
My guess is to run the bike if I ever get a wheel and sprocket the chain will stay on. If the motors get really hot on a little hill or don’t perform well then I may want to switch to a 90 tooth and maybe the 9 tooth motor sprockets if they will work.
I don’t know if I am right or not. I am just guessing by what I have learned studying DAs graphs. Mph vs Watts. It was never designed for two motors one wheel sprocket though. Have I broken new ground here or has someone done something similar? That’s another question I would like answered.
I know I have to press the throttle down a bit before anything happens. I also know I am moving the controller up front somewhere. The SLAs will stay in the back but I had to run a lot of extra wire for the throttle and with the controller up front I can eliminate that.
Once it is rolling with back brakes I may replace the motors a few months down the road with a pair of 36V Hobby King or Ampflow motors for 50mph. Or I may just leave it alone and build a second 20" bike to crash and die on.
I said a lot on my last post. I know some of it was stupid. Just blowing off steam. I have been really angry lately. It’s about my landlady and people around here I am disgusted with. Plus I still did not get my SSI and there playing games. Funds are terrible right now. I like everyone on this forum. I have got a lot of help here.
You guys are my friends and I wish you would post. I did not even get a comment on the two motors! I have posted photos and videos on this build. Dan if you read this please gives me a call. If I miss it leave a voice mail. I lost your number. Thanks.
LC out.
7/13
The video clearly shows the controller works fine and runs both motors. It spins the chain and I would be riding it if the wheel was not totally shot and the sprocket was not all loose. I tried and the chain came off as I expected.
I hooked the chain up myself with no special tools. I broke it with a hammer, screw driver and pliers. Lost the master link clip but still somehow managed to get it together and on the sprockets. The bike shops won’t touch it and all the so called master mechanics around here could do was destroy the MY1020 motor with a hammer and put the sprocket on with a hammer and chisel and screw up the freewheel.
I don’t care how many cars Ricky worked on or how many garages Dave (the guy that busted my motor) worked at, I am smarter than either of them. People around here are blithering ideates. That is why I post here because I am on a higher intellectual level than anyone I know or hang around with. This thing would be rolling if any one who posted here helped me.
After the chain popped off I carried the bike up the stairs with the SLAs in the back and it was still easier to handle than the Schwinn or the Currie was. Just like I stated in my last post. The bike is the perfect size for the stairs I have to deal with. I managed to install both motors and hook them to the controller. I even made the chain work without the correct tools. I have done everything I can but have not succeeded. The rim is too bent and the sprocket is too loose.
I was talking to Thud about one of those plastic sprockets for the Currie and that 1,500W brushless motor today on the Hobby King motor post... There is no sense in that though unless I have a better option for the Currie than hauling it up stairs.
The little bike is what I need running now. Not big bikes. That is why the entire Diamond Back build is on this post. I put it here so DA, Dan , Sunder, Mark, Skabalanka. (hope I got that right) and everyone else who posts here could see it. The other posts I did were about things no one wanted to discuss on this post like 10 kilowatt motors , Hobby king motors and other stuff. That is why I don’t know why nobody is posting here anymore.
I used the razor scooter motors because I did not pay anything for them. I figured two would be better than one for the amount of weight and work being done. I got a 9 tooth but need two and also was told it might be too small to use. I am not sure.
All I really know is I need two good rear wheels. One for the motor sprocket and one for pedal. I also need a Park tools FR-6 sprocket pulling tool. That is if the new rims I get are the same as the one I have that is bent in the video. I may need two different pulling tools. I am using the 80 tooth that was on the Currie. The biggest one from e bay is a 90 unless someone knows of one larger.
My guess is to run the bike if I ever get a wheel and sprocket the chain will stay on. If the motors get really hot on a little hill or don’t perform well then I may want to switch to a 90 tooth and maybe the 9 tooth motor sprockets if they will work.
I don’t know if I am right or not. I am just guessing by what I have learned studying DAs graphs. Mph vs Watts. It was never designed for two motors one wheel sprocket though. Have I broken new ground here or has someone done something similar? That’s another question I would like answered.
I know I have to press the throttle down a bit before anything happens. I also know I am moving the controller up front somewhere. The SLAs will stay in the back but I had to run a lot of extra wire for the throttle and with the controller up front I can eliminate that.
Once it is rolling with back brakes I may replace the motors a few months down the road with a pair of 36V Hobby King or Ampflow motors for 50mph. Or I may just leave it alone and build a second 20" bike to crash and die on.
I said a lot on my last post. I know some of it was stupid. Just blowing off steam. I have been really angry lately. It’s about my landlady and people around here I am disgusted with. Plus I still did not get my SSI and there playing games. Funds are terrible right now. I like everyone on this forum. I have got a lot of help here.
You guys are my friends and I wish you would post. I did not even get a comment on the two motors! I have posted photos and videos on this build. Dan if you read this please gives me a call. If I miss it leave a voice mail. I lost your number. Thanks.
LC out.
DrkAngel
1 GW
latecurtis said:
At full unregulated DC voltage ... unloaded permanent magnet motor RPM is nearly directly relateable to voltage.DrkAngel said:
24V = 4000rpm - 36V = 6000rpm - 48V = 8000rpm
DrkAngel
1 GW
High rpm motors, (light weight with thin gauge windings) typically, must be severely current limited to prevent burnup.
Sadly, this results in pitiful to mediocre low rpm performance.
Sadly, this results in pitiful to mediocre low rpm performance.
DrkAngel
1 GW
You seem paranoid about coppers taking you eBike!
Yet you seem to insist on creating builds that exceed any reasonable semblance of legality.
You proposed builds are pushing you into the realm of illegal, unlicensed, unregistered, uninsured operation of a motor vehicle.
And with you apparent lack of preparation, or concern, for stopping ... you're extremely liable to plow into some unwary pedestrian who steps off the curb ... and face criminal charges
Yet you seem to insist on creating builds that exceed any reasonable semblance of legality.
You proposed builds are pushing you into the realm of illegal, unlicensed, unregistered, uninsured operation of a motor vehicle.
And with you apparent lack of preparation, or concern, for stopping ... you're extremely liable to plow into some unwary pedestrian who steps off the curb ... and face criminal charges
DAND214
10 MW
He's just a rebel DA, that's all.
In a state where they are not allowed he wants too make a scene.
I sure hope it doesn't hurt the rest of us.
He just needs to either get caught or learn to ride like a normal person.
I wish he would get a spedo, maybe he will learn what 20 is like on a small bike. The 50 mph is all in his head from the years or fast cars. I know 50 in a car is nothing. but on a bicycle not built to do more than 10 is just insane! Just because others on ES are doing car speed the norm is around 20.
I've done 40mph a few years ago on a 26" mtb. That was fast, now I can do 35 and that is too fast. My normal speed is around 20, yeah I can do more but not in the places where I would be caught. Cost too much today to get out of jail.
Dan
In a state where they are not allowed he wants too make a scene.
I sure hope it doesn't hurt the rest of us.
He just needs to either get caught or learn to ride like a normal person.
I wish he would get a spedo, maybe he will learn what 20 is like on a small bike. The 50 mph is all in his head from the years or fast cars. I know 50 in a car is nothing. but on a bicycle not built to do more than 10 is just insane! Just because others on ES are doing car speed the norm is around 20.
I've done 40mph a few years ago on a 26" mtb. That was fast, now I can do 35 and that is too fast. My normal speed is around 20, yeah I can do more but not in the places where I would be caught. Cost too much today to get out of jail.
Dan
latecurtis
100 MW
Thanks for posting. I am not too concerned about speed right now with this 20" build. 20mph top speed on good roads. and good working rear brakes is what I am looking for right now. The city here is actually catching up on filling the pot holes. I am not trying to attract attention and when I do get the 20" bike going I will ride it on the sidewalks a lot and in their condition 5 to 10mph will be about the max speed.
When I take the Schwinn out like today, 15 mph is usually my top speed. The only times I push it is on very clear, smooth and familiar roads when the traffic is at a minimum and there are no intersections where a car can pull out. I would guess the Schwinn goes about 20mph with the three SLAs and about 25mph with the 44.4V Lipo packs. My advantage is I almost always take the same route and usually only two possible directions so I am very familiar with traffic, intersections and where police hide looking for speeders. I know when to pedal and that is why in the two years I have been riding e bikes I have not got seriously hurt or been Jacked up by the police.
I appreciate your concern for my safety though but if I do build a really fast bike I will find a safe place to try it out. For right now though I will need rims that are not bent and have good freewheels for my sprockets. I have one 9 tooth motor sprocket for the razor motors on the Diamond back. If I order a second and a 90 tooth wheel sprocket the sprocket calculator gives me 23mph for a 92 tooth sprocket. The way it is now set up with the 80 tooth it is geared for 32mph which will burn up my little motors.
It may be a set back having to order another motor sprocket and the 90 tooth but it is better than destroying my motors. I also calculated 35mph for the 5600rpm motor for a future upgrade to replace the two little motors and came up with an 85.5 tooth wheel sprocket. If I leave the 90 tooth on the wheel I would get about 33mph instead of 35 and a little extra help up hills. Does that make sense to you guys?
Also I am better off with a lower rpm motor for the Currie with a 26" wheel that way I wont need any special sprockets. I can simply put the 80 tooth back on it and run a 3,000rpm or 2800rpm Unite MY1020 motor like what was on it before. It performed well then. Thanks for clearing that up as I am no longer confused and even though It may be awhile at least I know what I need to do to get both the Currie and the 20" bike up and running again. Please post when you can.
LC out.
When I take the Schwinn out like today, 15 mph is usually my top speed. The only times I push it is on very clear, smooth and familiar roads when the traffic is at a minimum and there are no intersections where a car can pull out. I would guess the Schwinn goes about 20mph with the three SLAs and about 25mph with the 44.4V Lipo packs. My advantage is I almost always take the same route and usually only two possible directions so I am very familiar with traffic, intersections and where police hide looking for speeders. I know when to pedal and that is why in the two years I have been riding e bikes I have not got seriously hurt or been Jacked up by the police.
I appreciate your concern for my safety though but if I do build a really fast bike I will find a safe place to try it out. For right now though I will need rims that are not bent and have good freewheels for my sprockets. I have one 9 tooth motor sprocket for the razor motors on the Diamond back. If I order a second and a 90 tooth wheel sprocket the sprocket calculator gives me 23mph for a 92 tooth sprocket. The way it is now set up with the 80 tooth it is geared for 32mph which will burn up my little motors.
It may be a set back having to order another motor sprocket and the 90 tooth but it is better than destroying my motors. I also calculated 35mph for the 5600rpm motor for a future upgrade to replace the two little motors and came up with an 85.5 tooth wheel sprocket. If I leave the 90 tooth on the wheel I would get about 33mph instead of 35 and a little extra help up hills. Does that make sense to you guys?
Also I am better off with a lower rpm motor for the Currie with a 26" wheel that way I wont need any special sprockets. I can simply put the 80 tooth back on it and run a 3,000rpm or 2800rpm Unite MY1020 motor like what was on it before. It performed well then. Thanks for clearing that up as I am no longer confused and even though It may be awhile at least I know what I need to do to get both the Currie and the 20" bike up and running again. Please post when you can.
LC out.
latecurtis
100 MW
I am still getting a variable 36 to 72V brushless controller when I do upgrade to the 1,500W brushless motor for the 20" bike. However the maximum I plan on running it is 60V and the sixth SLA will run a 5" cooling fan. This will only be for racing Doug or one of these gas bikes that are riding around now with weed eater motors on them. I am surprised the cops have not taken them away. I have seen them several times in the last two weeks. 60V with the 90 tooth should get me up to 36 or 37mph.
I heard those gas motors are pushing 40mph. If I lose than I will have no choice than the 3+ kilowatt Ampflow for the 20" bike.
I heard those gas motors are pushing 40mph. If I lose than I will have no choice than the 3+ kilowatt Ampflow for the 20" bike.
latecurtis
100 MW
http://www.amazon.com/AmpFlow-A28-400-Brushed-Electric-Motor/dp/B00AG21RUE/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1436994648&sr=8-13&keywords=Ampflow+motors
This will happen only if the 1,500W brushless motor goes down in a race with the gas bikes at 72V. I will be ordering three more 12Ah SLAS for six total. I still have three and don't use them much as I am saving them for when I can afford three more. Today is the first time in over a month I ran them. I have been mostly running the Lipo packs for the Schwinn. I will also need a 7 or 8 Ah SLA for the DC cooling fan.
I am getting way ahead of myself. All that may be a year down the road. For now I just want to get the 20" Diamond Back to go 20mph and have working rear brakes.
Thanks. LC out.
This will happen only if the 1,500W brushless motor goes down in a race with the gas bikes at 72V. I will be ordering three more 12Ah SLAS for six total. I still have three and don't use them much as I am saving them for when I can afford three more. Today is the first time in over a month I ran them. I have been mostly running the Lipo packs for the Schwinn. I will also need a 7 or 8 Ah SLA for the DC cooling fan.
I am getting way ahead of myself. All that may be a year down the road. For now I just want to get the 20" Diamond Back to go 20mph and have working rear brakes.
Thanks. LC out.
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