new eZip motor
- Thread starter latecurtis
- Start date
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latecurtis
100 MW
latecurtis
100 MW
As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns.
7/29
The 24V controller works. Not sure if the video will post. The toy throttle for that kid’s scooter has only one speed. Full throttle! I really don’t understand that as it is a four wire 24V throttle. Why are there four wires if you can’t change the speed? It should only be two. What is the point of even having a controller if it is always full power going to the motors? Might as well just have an on and off switch.
I cut the four wires. Two red and two brown and hooked every combination possible to the 36V thumb throttle. Then I tried a three way switch and then a potentiometer I got at radio shack over two years ago I was going to use for a throttle. Nothing worked and I spliced the two red and two brown wires back together and the toy throttle still worked. I probably mixed them up but I guess if they are both red and the other two are brown it don’t matter. I really need a throttle that will work better or I can’t use that controller.
Doug and I are working on getting two good rear wheels and the sprocket pulling tools. We need the wheels first to make sure we get the right pulling tools. We should have something running next week. I need to hit Home depot again for a few more brackets. They will keep the motors more stabilized and rein enforce a front basket for hauling stuff.
The other video if it will post shows the amount of difficulty I have with a 26" mountain bike compared to the little Diamond Back. Please post a link for a 24V four wire throttle that will work and a #25 chain splitter if you can. I will need two day shipping! Thanks.
LC out.
latecurtis
100 MW
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Roller-Chain-Breaker-Detacher-25-60-/221804444269?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item33a4933a6d
http://www.ebay.com/itm/24V-Ground-Force-Razor-Thumb-Throttle-with-LED-indicator-4wires-E200-E300-/361301835334?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item541f447e46
Will this throttle work. the wires from the 24V controller are two red and two black. How would this hook up?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/24V-Ground-Force-Razor-Thumb-Throttle-with-LED-indicator-4wires-E200-E300-/361301835334?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item541f447e46
Will this throttle work. the wires from the 24V controller are two red and two black. How would this hook up?
latecurtis
100 MW
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SINGLE-SPEED-TWIST-GRIP-THROTTLE-4-WIRE-RAZOR-E100-E125-E150-E175-E200-E300-E325-/141328650880?hash=item20e7d81280
This is the single speed throttle I have now.
This is the single speed throttle I have now.
latecurtis
100 MW
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VARIABLE-SPEED-4-WIRE-TWIST-GRIP-THROTTLE-24V-FOR-RAZOR-ELECTRIC-SCOOTER-BIKES-/201127145866?hash=item2ed41cb18a&vxp=mtr
I could get this one but would rather have the thumb throttle if it will work. Please let me know.
I could get this one but would rather have the thumb throttle if it will work. Please let me know.
latecurtis
100 MW
That was wrong. two orange and two brown for the single speed throttle.
latecurtis
100 MW
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PARK-TOOL-BMX-FREEWHEEL-REMOVER-FR-6-TOOL-FOR-FOUR-NOTCH-SINGLE-SPEED-FREEWHEEL-/361335794794?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item54214aac6a
I will need to order that also. That the throttle and the chain splitter all two day shipping. Tomorrow after I order those things I will be looking to get a good 20" bike for parts. It must have both front and rear brakes that will work for the Dimond Back. Please let me know if the thumb throttle will work. Thanks.
LC out
I will need to order that also. That the throttle and the chain splitter all two day shipping. Tomorrow after I order those things I will be looking to get a good 20" bike for parts. It must have both front and rear brakes that will work for the Dimond Back. Please let me know if the thumb throttle will work. Thanks.
LC out
latecurtis
100 MW
http://www.ebay.com/itm/25-Roller-chain-Master-Connecting-link-GO-Karts-Mini-Bike-Pocket-Bike-Rocket-/160899988368?hash=item257662fb90
I cant forget about this. My came came apart also because I lost the little clips. I may as well order at least two so I have an extra one for when I get a new motor for the Currie.
I cant forget about this. My came came apart also because I lost the little clips. I may as well order at least two so I have an extra one for when I get a new motor for the Currie.
DrkAngel
1 GW
Depends on if it is a match for whatever controller.
E.G. Hall to hall
E.G. Hall to hall
DAND214
10 MW
You might want to open the controller and see what's in there, sounds more like just a relay for on and off.
Do you ever read what people post or don't care?
Dan
Do you ever read what people post or don't care?
Dan
Skalabala
1 kW
DAND214 said:You are correctSkalabala said:latecurtis said:http://www.amazon.com/AmpFlow-A28-400-Brushed-Electric-Motor/dp/B00AG21RUE/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1438201992&sr=8-8&keywords=AmpFlow
This is the motor I really want for the 20" bike
It would do 45mph with a 70 tooth sprocket on a 20" wheel with the 11 tooth motor sprocket
I wish I had money like that. Thanks
LC out.
Looks like a brushed motor?
Dan
The wonders of a bit of reading can do :lol: thought is was brushed when I saw the rear casing and efficiency
latecurtis
100 MW
[quoteDepends on if it is a match for whatever controller.
E.G. Hall to hall][/quote]
It should have been a straightforward and simple question.
Can I replace this throttle.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SINGLE-SPEED-TWIST-GRIP-THROTTLE-4-WIRE-RAZOR-E100-E125-E150-E175-E200-E300-E325-/141328650880?hash=item20e7d81280
with this throttle.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/24V-Ground-Force-Razor-Thumb-Throttle-with-LED-indicator-4wires-E200-E300-/361301835334?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item541f447e46
There should be no need to take anything apart. I just need to know what wires t0 hook up. I will order it anyway. If I have to get a different 24V controller then that is what I will have to do.
The problem is I don't have enough time online to research stuff I just have enough time to order things. That is why I do all my long posts at home and put them on a flash drive.
I ordered the park tools freewheel puller, the #25 chain splitter, a new master ling and am now ordering the thumb throttle. Please post when you can. Thanks
LC out.
E.G. Hall to hall][/quote]
It should have been a straightforward and simple question.
Can I replace this throttle.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SINGLE-SPEED-TWIST-GRIP-THROTTLE-4-WIRE-RAZOR-E100-E125-E150-E175-E200-E300-E325-/141328650880?hash=item20e7d81280
with this throttle.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/24V-Ground-Force-Razor-Thumb-Throttle-with-LED-indicator-4wires-E200-E300-/361301835334?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item541f447e46
There should be no need to take anything apart. I just need to know what wires t0 hook up. I will order it anyway. If I have to get a different 24V controller then that is what I will have to do.
The problem is I don't have enough time online to research stuff I just have enough time to order things. That is why I do all my long posts at home and put them on a flash drive.
I ordered the park tools freewheel puller, the #25 chain splitter, a new master ling and am now ordering the thumb throttle. Please post when you can. Thanks
LC out.
latecurtis
100 MW
I am not sure both motors will work like it is hooked up. It seems to spin the wheel fine but wont really know until I get a perfect straight wheel and good freewheel. If I have a problem with the dual motor set up after that I want to put one of the motors on the back. I still don't know what a bike rim with a freewheel on each side is called. It is not flip flop as the freewheel on the opposite side of the pedal freewheel needs to turn counter clockwise to work. I was told a flip flop hub does not. If anyone knows what it is called please post it as I want to put a motor on the back anyway for going up steep hills. Please let me know what the name of it is. I ordered an extra master link also just now when I ordered the thumb throttle. Thanks.
LC out.
LC out.
DrkAngel
1 GW
Save as complete web pages and read when you get home ... just takes a couple clicks and you get hours of research-reading.latecurtis said:
DrkAngel
1 GW
Well 1st ... again! ... look for a wheel or a hub, not a rim.latecurtis said:
You are looking for a Left\Right hub.
Not common enough to have been granted a proper name?
Right thread on one side Left thread on the other ... (like the hub on your eZip!) ...
at the proper width for your fork - (but usually mod-able via spacers and nuts etc.)
I believe I posted links to a couple eZip-iZip-Currie parts-n-such
But you will have to lace into your own rim.
DrkAngel
1 GW
Get the model # of the controllerDrkAngel said:
Do a search - find the spec page
Do the same with the throttle
Compare
Not enough information?
Contact manufacturers!
DAND214
10 MW
Look at this maybe what you want. http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=71525
And it's in NYC.
Dan
And it's in NYC.
Dan
latecurtis
100 MW
latecurtis
100 MW
As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns. 8/1 - 8/2
Special surprise post.
The Currie.
Since this post is officially about a new e zip motor for the Currie I would like a few paragraphs discussing it. I did not even get a chance to check my other post, Hobby King Motors. I saw a simple Jackshaft thing on line and posted a link to it there and was wondering how to hook it up. I sent thud a message about it.
If anyone knows anything about it please check it out. I am seeking very simple basic gear reduction. I am not interested in expensive and complicated gear reduction like planetary. I do research and study but not as much as I would like to.
The Currie will need simple gear reduction so I can experiment with the high rpm 1,500W brushless and Hobby King motors. The Currie has a 26" wheel so it is either a custom 150 tooth sprocket or simple gear reduction. I am leaning toward the gear reduction.
Also the frame work where I mounted the MY1020 motor, my first successful build allows plenty of room for a custom simple inexpensive jackshaft unit to be mounted directly below a motor and above a rear wheel sprocket. I am looking at Astro motors and around 10 kilowatts or 90mph top speed as I will explain later.
As far as the 20" build is concerned I don’t want or need gear reduction on it anytime soon. That is one of the reasons for choosing a 20" bike. I finally figured how to get at least 40mph out of it without gear reduction. The 48V 3,000rpm MY1020 motor is a perfect match as it only requires a sprocket about 60 tooth for 30mph.
My plan however is to run two of those motors off a single 60V brushed controller. One on the front and one on the back wheel using the the same size wheel sprockets geared for about 42mph. 1,250W each for 2,500W total. 3,750rpm@60V. Yes I am a madman!
If I order three more SLAs I will have 6 total or I could order six 6s bricks instead and run those parallel series for 66.6V. I would only need one SLA then to run two cooling fans, one for each motor. I can only imagine the acceleration it would be capable of. The Currie was quicker than the Schwinn from 0 to 15mph @ 36V and 750W. The Schwinn was only about two or three mph faster on top end with the 44.4V Lipo packs. About 27mph Lipo and 24mph Currie@36V.
The 20" bike at 60V with dual MY1020 motors will take care of my light work around here against those pesky little weed whacker motors I see mounted into the triangle of mountain bikes. I heard they can get close to 40mph. I doubt it though. My guess would be around 30mph. However when I was out to my brothers two weeks ago my brother in law and my brothers cousins on their mothers side who I am not related to all have four wheelers. One of them is claimed to do 80mph. I am hoping to build the Currie and take care of that issue by next summer.
I should at least be able to keep up with them from 0 to 40mph with the 20"Dimond Back if I do that 60V set up but for top end I will need to come up with something really sick for the Currie. It has to go faster than 80mph. hopefully that 20 kilowatt Astro motor. I think it was 10,000rpm but when geared for 120mph only required an 80 tooth sprocket I believe. The motor cost over $2,000 though I think. I will need a special three speed controller to gradually work up to that much power. A 120mph Currie? Imagine that!!
My mentality hasn't changed in 30 years. I used to have a suped up 73 charger in my driveway back then and I would see a Chevy or a Ford ride by and I would like to blow them completely off the road at 5,000rpms and did just that a few times. The only thing changed is I went electric. I am also smart enough to figure this out. I took material science technology and went to college and need 14 credits for a degree in electrical technology.
If 750W = 1hp and I still had that charger I would need a 750 kilowatt motor to generate 1,000hp. 2,250 kilowatt’s for a 3,000hp motor. That is over 2 million watts. How fast would it go and how many Lipo batteries would it need? Answer 400 Lipo batteries each putting out 5.625 kilowatts. I don’t know how fast it would go though. Please let me know. It sounds like a doable project.
Each brick would be 88.8V or 24s and put out 63.4A and lined up in ten parallel rows of 40 than in series to the motor if it were 800V and 2.25 million watts. If anyone can figure approximately how fast it will go please post it. The bricks and controller would need to be inside of a huge freezer to keep them from exploding from the heat. The motor and controller would also need to be internally cooled with a high pressure liquid nitrogen coolant.
I have no clue what gauge or material the wire and connectors would need to be without melting. I would design the motor so the magnet assembly connected to the motor shaft rotates around a stationary core and the copper wires or windings would run thru the liquid cooling pipes in the core somehow.
The surprise.
I have only seen the inside of DC motors when the Currie motor burned out and the MY1020 motor came apart. I came up with a rough blueprint for the design of this motor. My dream for about 30 years was to come up with a motor design that would beat the legendary 426 Hemi in a quarter mile. This is the best idea I have come up with.
The illustration is a two dimensional side view. The magnets will completely encircle the motor and the core is round obviously not flat or two dimensional. I will leave the rest up to DA and the rest of you guys to manufacture it. I just want my name mentioned on the patent please and a small 10% cut of the profits when it is mass produced as it was my idea. I will even help build it and work part time for the company.
I left out the supports for the motor which would bolt to the super duty reinforced frame. They will have to go where the arrow points to the axel on either side of the motor and would need to allow the axel to spin somehow. A very slippery material must be used. That will require further design. The freezer with the 400 Lipos or better battery technology will go under the hood where the gas motor was and the coolant reservoir for the liquid nitrogen, the pumps and controller will all fit inside the trunk of the 73 Dodge charger.
The battery diagram shows the importance of superior battery development 400 Lipos will take up a considerable amount of space and the freezer would need to be large. They would not need to be placed two dimensional though as in the illustration. The rows could be stacked on top of each other vertically saving a lot of space. They all must fit under the hood.
The liquid Freon will run thru small pipes which would run in between the rows of Lipos as in the illustration. It will also be air cooled with high speed fans like a standard freezer unit. I call this DDC or double duty cooling. Please include a separate patent for that and don’t forget me. A separate much smaller motor will be attached to one of the front wheels for reverse unless there is a simple way to reverse polarity of the motor.
For right now I would just like to get the 20" bike running at 24V with at least one motor and get working brakes on the front and rear if possible this month. I still need two 20" rear rims with freewheels. My budget is about spent however. The $60 I put in the bank is almost gone but at least I got the tools and parts ordered.
I did talk to the guy that broke the MY1020 motor by hitting it with a hammer. He said he would give me $50 next week. He is one of my best friends so I have no doubt that he will. I am hoping to pick up a good 20" bike with good brakes and an extra back 20" freewheel next Thursday at the bike club. That is why I did not choose two day shipping on the parts. They should all be in by August 10 according to e bay.
I really hope that 24V thumb throttle will work with that controller. If it does I should be good to go. If not I may run it at 36V. I probably will anyway before the 60V upgrade. I want to get used to riding the 20" bike before going fast. It should go up about any hill when I upgrade to 60V and 2,500W total.
I have been riding bikes for most of my life or over 40 years. E bikes only two of those years. I rarely had front brakes and a lot of times no brakes. I just stayed away from hills or walked the bike up and down them. I never got seriously hurt or hurt anyone riding in 40 years. Only minor cuts and bruises once in a great while.
I flipped over the handle bars going down a hill at least once about 30 years ago because of front brakes. I unhooked them for years after that and stayed away from hills. I got over it though and use front brakes now with the Schwinn and did with the Currie. However I am not looking to go down any big hills to reach 50mph like someone posted on here. I prefer to go fast on smooth flat roads without any intersections for at least a half a mile.
I am looking to have good working brakes because it is more convenient and shorter sometimes to go down some hills instead of going around the long way. I know brakes came up a lot on this post and especially this build. I plan on having front and rear brakes on the Diamond Back. Then I am going to get used to riding it. I never had a 20" bike. I am used to the Currie as I rode it for two years. I know I could do at least 35mph on a good stretch of road without getting scared on either the Currie or the Schwinn. Please post when you can Thanks.
LC out.
Special surprise post.
The Currie.
Since this post is officially about a new e zip motor for the Currie I would like a few paragraphs discussing it. I did not even get a chance to check my other post, Hobby King Motors. I saw a simple Jackshaft thing on line and posted a link to it there and was wondering how to hook it up. I sent thud a message about it.
If anyone knows anything about it please check it out. I am seeking very simple basic gear reduction. I am not interested in expensive and complicated gear reduction like planetary. I do research and study but not as much as I would like to.
The Currie will need simple gear reduction so I can experiment with the high rpm 1,500W brushless and Hobby King motors. The Currie has a 26" wheel so it is either a custom 150 tooth sprocket or simple gear reduction. I am leaning toward the gear reduction.
Also the frame work where I mounted the MY1020 motor, my first successful build allows plenty of room for a custom simple inexpensive jackshaft unit to be mounted directly below a motor and above a rear wheel sprocket. I am looking at Astro motors and around 10 kilowatts or 90mph top speed as I will explain later.
As far as the 20" build is concerned I don’t want or need gear reduction on it anytime soon. That is one of the reasons for choosing a 20" bike. I finally figured how to get at least 40mph out of it without gear reduction. The 48V 3,000rpm MY1020 motor is a perfect match as it only requires a sprocket about 60 tooth for 30mph.
My plan however is to run two of those motors off a single 60V brushed controller. One on the front and one on the back wheel using the the same size wheel sprockets geared for about 42mph. 1,250W each for 2,500W total. 3,750rpm@60V. Yes I am a madman!
If I order three more SLAs I will have 6 total or I could order six 6s bricks instead and run those parallel series for 66.6V. I would only need one SLA then to run two cooling fans, one for each motor. I can only imagine the acceleration it would be capable of. The Currie was quicker than the Schwinn from 0 to 15mph @ 36V and 750W. The Schwinn was only about two or three mph faster on top end with the 44.4V Lipo packs. About 27mph Lipo and 24mph Currie@36V.
The 20" bike at 60V with dual MY1020 motors will take care of my light work around here against those pesky little weed whacker motors I see mounted into the triangle of mountain bikes. I heard they can get close to 40mph. I doubt it though. My guess would be around 30mph. However when I was out to my brothers two weeks ago my brother in law and my brothers cousins on their mothers side who I am not related to all have four wheelers. One of them is claimed to do 80mph. I am hoping to build the Currie and take care of that issue by next summer.
I should at least be able to keep up with them from 0 to 40mph with the 20"Dimond Back if I do that 60V set up but for top end I will need to come up with something really sick for the Currie. It has to go faster than 80mph. hopefully that 20 kilowatt Astro motor. I think it was 10,000rpm but when geared for 120mph only required an 80 tooth sprocket I believe. The motor cost over $2,000 though I think. I will need a special three speed controller to gradually work up to that much power. A 120mph Currie? Imagine that!!
My mentality hasn't changed in 30 years. I used to have a suped up 73 charger in my driveway back then and I would see a Chevy or a Ford ride by and I would like to blow them completely off the road at 5,000rpms and did just that a few times. The only thing changed is I went electric. I am also smart enough to figure this out. I took material science technology and went to college and need 14 credits for a degree in electrical technology.
If 750W = 1hp and I still had that charger I would need a 750 kilowatt motor to generate 1,000hp. 2,250 kilowatt’s for a 3,000hp motor. That is over 2 million watts. How fast would it go and how many Lipo batteries would it need? Answer 400 Lipo batteries each putting out 5.625 kilowatts. I don’t know how fast it would go though. Please let me know. It sounds like a doable project.
Each brick would be 88.8V or 24s and put out 63.4A and lined up in ten parallel rows of 40 than in series to the motor if it were 800V and 2.25 million watts. If anyone can figure approximately how fast it will go please post it. The bricks and controller would need to be inside of a huge freezer to keep them from exploding from the heat. The motor and controller would also need to be internally cooled with a high pressure liquid nitrogen coolant.
I have no clue what gauge or material the wire and connectors would need to be without melting. I would design the motor so the magnet assembly connected to the motor shaft rotates around a stationary core and the copper wires or windings would run thru the liquid cooling pipes in the core somehow.
The surprise.
I have only seen the inside of DC motors when the Currie motor burned out and the MY1020 motor came apart. I came up with a rough blueprint for the design of this motor. My dream for about 30 years was to come up with a motor design that would beat the legendary 426 Hemi in a quarter mile. This is the best idea I have come up with.
The illustration is a two dimensional side view. The magnets will completely encircle the motor and the core is round obviously not flat or two dimensional. I will leave the rest up to DA and the rest of you guys to manufacture it. I just want my name mentioned on the patent please and a small 10% cut of the profits when it is mass produced as it was my idea. I will even help build it and work part time for the company.
I left out the supports for the motor which would bolt to the super duty reinforced frame. They will have to go where the arrow points to the axel on either side of the motor and would need to allow the axel to spin somehow. A very slippery material must be used. That will require further design. The freezer with the 400 Lipos or better battery technology will go under the hood where the gas motor was and the coolant reservoir for the liquid nitrogen, the pumps and controller will all fit inside the trunk of the 73 Dodge charger.
The battery diagram shows the importance of superior battery development 400 Lipos will take up a considerable amount of space and the freezer would need to be large. They would not need to be placed two dimensional though as in the illustration. The rows could be stacked on top of each other vertically saving a lot of space. They all must fit under the hood.
The liquid Freon will run thru small pipes which would run in between the rows of Lipos as in the illustration. It will also be air cooled with high speed fans like a standard freezer unit. I call this DDC or double duty cooling. Please include a separate patent for that and don’t forget me. A separate much smaller motor will be attached to one of the front wheels for reverse unless there is a simple way to reverse polarity of the motor.
For right now I would just like to get the 20" bike running at 24V with at least one motor and get working brakes on the front and rear if possible this month. I still need two 20" rear rims with freewheels. My budget is about spent however. The $60 I put in the bank is almost gone but at least I got the tools and parts ordered.
I did talk to the guy that broke the MY1020 motor by hitting it with a hammer. He said he would give me $50 next week. He is one of my best friends so I have no doubt that he will. I am hoping to pick up a good 20" bike with good brakes and an extra back 20" freewheel next Thursday at the bike club. That is why I did not choose two day shipping on the parts. They should all be in by August 10 according to e bay.
I really hope that 24V thumb throttle will work with that controller. If it does I should be good to go. If not I may run it at 36V. I probably will anyway before the 60V upgrade. I want to get used to riding the 20" bike before going fast. It should go up about any hill when I upgrade to 60V and 2,500W total.
I have been riding bikes for most of my life or over 40 years. E bikes only two of those years. I rarely had front brakes and a lot of times no brakes. I just stayed away from hills or walked the bike up and down them. I never got seriously hurt or hurt anyone riding in 40 years. Only minor cuts and bruises once in a great while.
I flipped over the handle bars going down a hill at least once about 30 years ago because of front brakes. I unhooked them for years after that and stayed away from hills. I got over it though and use front brakes now with the Schwinn and did with the Currie. However I am not looking to go down any big hills to reach 50mph like someone posted on here. I prefer to go fast on smooth flat roads without any intersections for at least a half a mile.
I am looking to have good working brakes because it is more convenient and shorter sometimes to go down some hills instead of going around the long way. I know brakes came up a lot on this post and especially this build. I plan on having front and rear brakes on the Diamond Back. Then I am going to get used to riding it. I never had a 20" bike. I am used to the Currie as I rode it for two years. I know I could do at least 35mph on a good stretch of road without getting scared on either the Currie or the Schwinn. Please post when you can Thanks.
LC out.
DrkAngel
1 GW
Wow ... !
Pictures -
Liquid coolant inside an electric motor seems extraordinarily difficult to do safely or effectively!
Filtered air circulation seems to be the best method.
Cooling a massive Li-ion pack with a dedicated freon system is an extravagant idea!
Redirecting a small bit of air from a vehicle AC system would be more than sufficient.
1. Lithium cells have increasingly poorer performance below 70ºF.
2. Lithium cells at moderate discharge rates don't produce any notable heat!
(Heating (warming) battery, during cold weather, is much more important in your region)
Yes ... I eBike all year round ...
See - Winterized
Batteries vs Cold
Pictures -
Liquid coolant inside an electric motor seems extraordinarily difficult to do safely or effectively!
Filtered air circulation seems to be the best method.
Cooling a massive Li-ion pack with a dedicated freon system is an extravagant idea!
Redirecting a small bit of air from a vehicle AC system would be more than sufficient.
1. Lithium cells have increasingly poorer performance below 70ºF.
2. Lithium cells at moderate discharge rates don't produce any notable heat!
(Heating (warming) battery, during cold weather, is much more important in your region)
Yes ... I eBike all year round ...
See - Winterized
Batteries vs Cold
latecurtis
100 MW
Did you look at the pictures? It says they were not down loaded yet. The motor is for a car. A vintage Dodge charger. It is 800V and 1.25 million watts. It is a design prototype. It has not been developed. The motor is 3,000HP. It also does not require a transmission or driveshaft or differential. The motor shaft is the axel.
I am an idea guy. I think things up. I do not have the knowledge to actually invent it. I am leaving that up to you. The current is 2812.5A at 800V. This would melt most any wire. That is why a fully insulated wire could run thru a liquid cooling pipe inside the motor. Also what I was really getting at is Lipo is not the answer. 400 batteries is simply ridiculous. A different battery technology must be developed if a 3,000HP electric motor were to be operated.
What is the most powerful DC motor in a vehicle to date? Is it 3,000HP. The funny cars are at least that. I hope someday to be able to design something similar to that. I am fascinated by DC motors. I wish I was younger and still in college. Green energy and turning away from fossil fuels is the only salvation for mankind. We must do it or our future generations will surely be doomed. Rich oil companies and upper government must not prevail. It is up to us to change things.
I am going to go and collect my $50 for the motor my friend broke. I hope to get the 20" bike running as soon as the sprocket pulling tool and the new master link come in. Thanks.
LC out.
I am an idea guy. I think things up. I do not have the knowledge to actually invent it. I am leaving that up to you. The current is 2812.5A at 800V. This would melt most any wire. That is why a fully insulated wire could run thru a liquid cooling pipe inside the motor. Also what I was really getting at is Lipo is not the answer. 400 batteries is simply ridiculous. A different battery technology must be developed if a 3,000HP electric motor were to be operated.
What is the most powerful DC motor in a vehicle to date? Is it 3,000HP. The funny cars are at least that. I hope someday to be able to design something similar to that. I am fascinated by DC motors. I wish I was younger and still in college. Green energy and turning away from fossil fuels is the only salvation for mankind. We must do it or our future generations will surely be doomed. Rich oil companies and upper government must not prevail. It is up to us to change things.
I am going to go and collect my $50 for the motor my friend broke. I hope to get the 20" bike running as soon as the sprocket pulling tool and the new master link come in. Thanks.
LC out.
DrkAngel
1 GW
Well ... you seem to be progressing.
Starting with simple dreams of power and speed ... without proper consideration of safety or survivability ...
Now you present ludicrous musings of unattainable and unusable(!) power ... by ridiculous methods.
Try some reality!
Take your 20incher, add a speedometer and throw 100lb of lead into the baskets.
Go to the top of the steepest hill you can find and let gravity give you a taste of your desired 50 mph.
Please have someone ahead of you filming! HD camera that captures your facial expression when you realize what an awful mistake you are making, desired.
Slo-mo for the probable outcome ... please.
Please provide cameraman with your ES account info, so the movie can be posted up, in case you become ... permanently unavailable.
Not fast or unsafe enough ... ?
Roller blades and a rocket strapped to your butt is the next logical step?
Starting with simple dreams of power and speed ... without proper consideration of safety or survivability ...
Now you present ludicrous musings of unattainable and unusable(!) power ... by ridiculous methods.
Try some reality!
Take your 20incher, add a speedometer and throw 100lb of lead into the baskets.
Go to the top of the steepest hill you can find and let gravity give you a taste of your desired 50 mph.
Please have someone ahead of you filming! HD camera that captures your facial expression when you realize what an awful mistake you are making, desired.
Slo-mo for the probable outcome ... please.
Please provide cameraman with your ES account info, so the movie can be posted up, in case you become ... permanently unavailable.
Not fast or unsafe enough ... ?
Roller blades and a rocket strapped to your butt is the next logical step?
latecurtis
100 MW
http://www.extremetech.com/extreme/153697-mercedes-benz-sls-amg-electric-drive-a-740-hp-super-sports-car-with-one-electric-motor-per-wheel
This is better than my design. Each wheel having a motor makes sense. I read most of the article. I got up early today to do research. Eventually I will need a car. I am exploring motor options and battery options for that matter. I am studying efficiency electric vs. gas.
I am still looking for a good rear wheel for the 20" bike. I will post a video if I ever get it running. I am glad DA got a kick out of my little invention. I may not be building an electric car any time soon but hope to someday. The Diamond Back will be upgraded to 40mph and the Currie at least 50mph though when I get the money. They will also be equipped with onboard cameras. Thanks.
LC out.
This is better than my design. Each wheel having a motor makes sense. I read most of the article. I got up early today to do research. Eventually I will need a car. I am exploring motor options and battery options for that matter. I am studying efficiency electric vs. gas.
I am still looking for a good rear wheel for the 20" bike. I will post a video if I ever get it running. I am glad DA got a kick out of my little invention. I may not be building an electric car any time soon but hope to someday. The Diamond Back will be upgraded to 40mph and the Currie at least 50mph though when I get the money. They will also be equipped with onboard cameras. Thanks.
LC out.
latecurtis
100 MW
http://global-sei.com/sn/2007/361/4.html
Don't laugh too hard DA Here is a 365 kilowatt motor cooled by liquid nitrogen. I looked it up.
Don't laugh too hard DA Here is a 365 kilowatt motor cooled by liquid nitrogen. I looked it up.
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