new eZip motor

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Brakes?
I believe that you mentioned feeling the deceleration from the non-freewheeling front drive when you released the throttle?

If you were to mount a gear-reduction motor instead, to the rear wheel you would have rather effective deceleration and modest non-fade braking for downhills. Combined with reasonable front brakes ... I see no reason for any rear brakes.
Under heavy braking 90%+ of the stopping is done by the front brakes and the gear reduction rear braking would effectively be a form of anti-lock brakes = never locking up! = much safer!

Your front motor might be a hazard on slippery streets ... ice, snow etc. Even a partial skid can put you down almost immediately!
Maybe worse ... accelerating on slippery surfaces, with front wheel drive can be very hazardous.
When you accelerate you shift weight off the front wheel, combine this with the wheel applied torque, and the possibility of a front wheel spin is pretty common ... which is extremely liable to put you immediately on the road.
 
Sunder said:
You may have to run me through the maths that led you to those numbers for a reasonable answer to your question. 30Ah would be 6 bricks in parallel. 40Ah would obviously be 8. How did you come to 9 or 12?

Ah, sorry, you're talking about the 4S bricks, not the 6S bricks. I didn't read your post carefully enough, I just assumed you were comparing 20Ah vs 5Ah versions of the same battery.

My mistake.
 
broke and disgusted. The Diamond Back is broke again. The soldering job on the pot did not hold up and the controller smells burnt. I took it apart but did not see anything burnt. I can try to fix it but could really use the new controller. Probably wont be in until Dec1. I broke in three of the SLAs so how do I run four for 24V. Can I discharge it to about 12.7V with the LIPO charger and recharge it three times.

It really sucks I did not get the new controller plus am totally broke. Please let me know. I would not mind running it at 24V for awhile. The stupid single speed from the little 280W motor wont work for it. 24V @20Ah would be great as I wont have to order any more SLAs next month and can afford to buy some clothes and laundry. I need long johns and jeans and the ol lady needs cab money to get to the doctor.

I can still run the LIPOs if I want to go 30mph if I ever get the new controller. I can also run it at 65.6V if I get 8 of those 4s bricks someday in parallel series. 4.1 * 16 = 65.6V as long as has 70V caps.
Please let me know about breaking in that fourth SLA so I can run 24V. Thanks.

LC. out.
 
Sorry to hear that mate. Not sure I can help you with any of your queries, but best of luck with them. Not sure what is so different about this 4th SLA that it needs a different break in process.

Any news on your SSI claim? Should make the finances a bit easier, right?
 
Should'a picked up the <$12 24-36V+ controller!
 
As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns. 36V AmpFlow / 5 horses. :twisted:

My keyboard broke. On screen sucks. Some people are just dumb. There is good excuses for it but not when you run an electronics store. Glimmers. Where I went before looking for switches awhile back. Dude don’t know about pots either. Really stupid! Sold me piece of shit. Told him 4.5V to 0V throttle. Need it to be variable from 0 to max. $4 for that. About 1500 to 4200 rpm with the little motor I would say. see new pot.
No way I can run it. big motor would start at 1000rpm. Not good! Got to go all the way to Radio Shack to get one like I had. Dude better give me the money back or I will punch him in the face. He is an ignoramus.

Took controller out of case to check for something burnt but looked good and could not get back together. Waterproof now! See controller No new controller! Could have used that $38 this month. Bullshit shipping from China not free shipping! If a pot don’t work I ordered it for nothing. Be glad to trade it for something if pot don’t work.

I want to get a soldering kit and good connectors plus shrink wrap and a couple more $15 Chinese controllers. Solder on connectors for motor, power and throttle. Three connectors and carry an extra controller and pot and a little tool kit with a led light, scissors and zip ties. The pot will have the plug soldered on it also and a burnt controller or pot could be changed and the bike up an running in a jiffy.

The Cheap 36V Chinese controller I got now held up good. Was on the Currie and wired up at least 20 times since that old guy who first upgraded the Currie from 24 to 36V about two years ago now. Never use a fuse since either. see controller.

If 24V @ 20Ah is good for 20mph at 1C discharge than 36V @ 20Ah is good for 25mph at 1C discharge. It may be the last two SLAs I ever order next month. Only way I would order SLAs again would be if the pair of 8Ah SLAS for $15 free shipping was still available. see SLAs. SLAs are easier to charge and store. Dont need LIPO bags and metal boxes to protect them and the environment.

See terminals and parallel charging. I don’t want to go over 25mph anyway without a new motor sprocket and another motor install for a tighter chain. Runs great at 25mph now though as the videos I did a few pages back show. I am sick of working on it and don’t want to install the new controller now or run LIPO yet. I just want to hook up a pot and run it at 36V and next month upgrade to 20 Ah.

That thing would go 30mph easily at 49.2V but if the chain came off going that fast it may not end well. 39.6V is enough for now. I probably will keep it around 20mph tops and mostly about 10 or 15mph. 20mph at 36V has to be easier on the batteries than at 24V.

Parallel charging and terminals show the 4S bricks that will replace the ones Dan sent when the time comes. The left side of parallel charging is the standard way with bullet plugs for running and charging. It requires lots of plugging and unplugging, wear on the plugs. The terminals avoid worn or faulty plugs and even shock via the pre hook up cable. See cable. You could put the two resisters between bullet plugs but I would rather touch the terminals for a second than plug anything in. Much quicker and easier. Charging and running.

For three packs of 4 to 6 SLAs each pack, two foot cables with Bullet connectors on each end would work well hooked to two bullet plugs wired to the terminals. One on each side of the frame with the third pack under the terminals on the back rack. If the balance plugs won’t reach I can put the charger closer to the packs and make the charging cables longer.

I dont parallel charge the packs Dan sent because they were taped off in pairs and need separate charging. With 9 or 12 new SLAs I could charge all at once very easily by hooking three short wires with clips to the end of each charging cable and using the pre hook up cable before each connection first. No plugs involved!

See LIPOs vs SLAs. That is not just a diagram but questions. Please let me know. Those are 5S LIPOs. The problem is there usually is no good deals on them but as you see the voltage compared to three SLAs in series is impressive. It is also perfect for the 36V 3330W Amp Flow motor as 49.2V (two 6S in series)or 4.1 * 12 is way too high.

The big question however is how to combine the packs? I am talking about the balance cables of course. With two, four or eight bricks it is simple with Y balance cables and extenders. Five six & 7 can’t be done though. WHAT other cable will work? Is there a parallel board that will work without the power wires hooked up? If I plug in five or six bricks into this. see board. Bullet plugs gone anyway. The board will plug into the balancer thru an extention.see combined.

That is six 4S or 5S bricks in parallel. Another six will be combined for a second pack to achieve 30Ah @ 32.8V for a 24V motor with 4S bricks. as two SLAs are 26.2V. Perfect for the 24V 900W kit Monster scooter sells for $199. The 36V Amp Flow motor will run 41V and close to 4 kilowatts for an easy 50mph with 5S packs though. Please let me know about 5S bricks, the board and balance cables.. I will be posting this and selling the Magna for money to get a bus to Radio shack. I want my DB. Running. Thanks.

LC. out.

PS. Got a letter today stating I am approved. :shock: Money is coming my way. :D I should have the 3330W AmpFlow motor soon. I really need answers to those questions. Also will a spoke sprocket hold up to 5 horsepower ? I am building a bike to go 50mph. Thanks.

LC. out.

PS. again. I just PM LFP. "I will be getting a money settlement soon. Not looking for anything free just a good deal if you know where I can get an FX - 75-5 motor around the first on next year. I want to build a mini Death bike for summer. Please let me know if you get a chance. Thanks. LC. out." :twisted: :mrgreen:
 
No, you'll need a motorcycle hub, spokes, rim, tires, frame etc.
Your present components are designed for the weight and power output of a 90lb 12 year old?

5HP front drive will be puttin' you on the ground with every full throttle burst. Unless it just rips apart the front fork you chopped the chunk out of, then you get to hit the ground one good time. Front fork ripped off will leave you falling on a pile of powerful motor, tire, chain and sprocket.

I don't see the point ... since you already attained disability! ... life insurance for the ol' lady?
 
latecurtis said:
PS. Got a letter today stating I am approved. :shock: Money is coming my way. :D I should have the 3330W AmpFlow motor soon. I really need answers to those questions. Also will a spoke sprocket hold up to 5 horsepower ? I am building a bike to go 50mph. Thanks.

Okay, in times like this, I really like to trust in the words of the wise sage, Vanilla Ice:

Crowdsource_403x403_270514.png


1. Stop - Don't buy anything yet.

2. Collaborate - work with people who have done this before.

3. Listen - They've done this and lived. If you want the same outcome, you're best off listening to people who know what mistakes to avoid.

Seriously. Quite a while ago, I know of a guy who decided to severely increase the power of his engine on a drag car. So much so that he was spinning his wheels. That annoyed him, so he got racing slicks. Lights go red, tacho goes redline. Light goes green, the motor dumps power through the drive train. The rubber hits the road, and the slicks are good... Too good. The momentum of the car wants to stay still, but the slicks want to push it forward, so the road puts a backwards force down the drive train. The weakest point snaps. The weakest point just happens to be the flywheel. A piece breaks off - remember a 10th of a second ago, it was spinning at redline. A few hundred grams of sharpened metal smashes through the bell housing, it's not done yet: It smashes through the firewall. It's not done yet. It smashes through the guys leg.

Yeah. Think about that. Think about it especially when you want to strap several kilograms of metal, giving out several hundred newton metres of force on a flimsy fork. Think about that when you need to stop several hundred pounds of skin that will break, muscle that will tear, and bone that will break from 50mph.

Or, you can stop, collaborate and listen. Your call.
 
You should pay attention!
You SLA figures are way off!

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SLA math

LC (1C) >>> 30 x 10Ah x 13.2V @ 1 Hour = 3960wh

Except for the voltage, that would be the usable capacity at a "full" to "empty" .05C discharge rate

At .05C output
Fully discharged >>> 30 x 10Ah x 12.0V @ 20 Hour = 3600wh

At 1C output
Recommended discharge depth >>> 30 x 10Ah x 11.5V @ .33 Hour = 1150wh

At 3C output
Recommended discharge depth >>> 30 x 10Ah x 11.0V @ .0583 Hour = 576wh


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latecurtis said:
Dude don’t know about pots either. Really stupid! Sold me piece of shit. Told him 4.5V to 0V throttle. Need it to be variable from 0 to max. $4 for that. About 1500 to 4200 rpm with the little motor I would say. see new pot.
No way I can run it. big motor would start at 1000rpm. Not good! Got to go all the way to Radio Shack to get one like I had. Dude better give me the money back or I will punch him in the face. He is an ignoramus.
Maybe best if you get banned from another store?
Ignorant - ignorance is the state of being unaware = you! = not the electronics store salesperson!
Pots (potentiometers) are not rated by voltage!
Pots are rated by (ohms of) resistance. (told you all this previously!!!)
Hall throttles are based on voltage ( 0 - ~4.5V)
By design, Hall (voltage) and Magura type (resistance) throttles are not compatible.
A multi throttle type controller is a possibility or by some lucky happenstance you found a pot of compatible resistance and watt to regulate your Hall controllers voltage.
Take your old pot to store and ask to have a match. (Magura throttles are in the 0-5k resistance range)
You will also want the same watt rating as what worked previously EG 5w vs 3w vs 2w vs 1w vs ½w vs ¼w.
Also recommend a knob that doesn't stick out ... being a target for bend and breaking!

Ignoramus would be someone who tends to ignore-disregard knowledge-advice and seems to strive mightily to remain belligerently ignorant ...
 
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Rated capacity is for new cells-batteries
Li-ion picture is of old 33.3V 31.92Ah build (recycled cells) - cost ~$40?
Replacement Li-ion build of NOS 2600mAh cells - ~$90 (no pictures yet)
Dedicated build for 2008 eZip Mountain Trailz (Snow Beast) geared for < 20mph @ 33.3V w/studded tires. But wore out with near 30mph assist duty on my pedal eBike 2008 eZip Trailz (Commuter) and 25mph cruising on 2013 eZip Trailz LS (Comfort Cruiser). Commuter and Comfort Cruiser both geared for ~20mph @ 24V and run with 25.9V LiPo builds - upgraded to 24 - 36V+ capable controllers @ $12.

New, higher capacity-output capable, cells could greatly increase capability!
13lb of HC\HO Panasonic or Samsung cells could easily outperform your 240lb of SLA ... with 500%++ the usable lifespan!

7s (25.9V) packs, of similar build, ran reliably for years and several thousand miles each. (<.5C cruising rate greatly prolonged usable life!)

I simply bulk charge, but monitor bank voltages and carefully test every few months. (careful cell selection and calculated assembly resulted in maintenance free use)
 

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As the Hub Motor Turns and the LIPO Fire Burns. 24" / no turkey!

Once again I tried selling the Magna and failed. This time Doug was interested as he needed a 21 speed rear wheel with 7 gears in the back for a 26" bike. That’s when we both realized it is a 24" bike. p4. I have wanted one for years and didn't realize I have been riding around on one. I took it to Radio Shack last night to pick up the new pot. pic3. If anyone wishes to wire one up make Shure it says A5k on it. It is $3.49. Other ones may work but I am not sure. I know all pots are not the same as the one from Glimmers is garbage.

When hooking it up it helps to have a test motor as I posted yesterday in the video. There is no way of telling if it will start at full throttle or not when you hit the switch. The red wire goes in the center. Before taping the other two throttle wires and the motor wires make sure both are clockwise. The motor sprocket when it spins and the control knob on the pot should be in the off position fully counter clockwise. It needs to turn clockwise slowly until it engages the motor.

As I stated before the level of control over motor speed is unmatched by any throttle. You can set it at 1/2 a mph if you want. I will get a couple more on the first. I am also getting another 36V Chinese controller exactly like the one I got as it has proven to be very reliable.

When I get my settlement money $1000 will be going for a pickup truck as I will be moving myself to a first floor place. I want a small truck I can convert to electric someday. An electric forklift motor and standard tranny and adapter plate from Canada. Please post any information on it.

Before I get an Ampflow or a FX 75-5 motor I will be building the Magna. I am going to take DAs advice on a small lightweight geared hub motor for a 24" wheel. 24V 500W and 20mph. The lightest possible motor. I would order a single 20.0 6S pack but it probley is on back order.

4.1 * 8 = 32.8V. Four 5.0 4S bricks in parallel series should get a 500W motor up to 25mph if the motor is capable. That is the plan. I will post links and any links will be welcome. I will be ordering as soon as the money shows up. The Roadmaster is my new project bike.

T1 and T2 show the original 80 tooth sprocket off the Currie. I learned that from a Youtube video on how to true a wheel without a stand. Also for smaller low rpm builds under 500 watts About any sprocket can be mounted to the spokes by drilling holes or using existing holes. I will be adding larger washers and may drill 4 new holes to add four more bolts.

The dual motor set up will be a fun project that won’t put a strain on my wallet. I have to go to the grocery store with the Diamond Back to get chicken for dinner. No turkey this year as the oven needs cleaning. Fried chicken ,stove top stuffing, gravy and cranberry will do. I like chicken better anyway. My favorite is roast duck though. Maybe next year. I am on my way. Will post this tomorrow. Happy Thanksgiving.

Houston!! We have a problem!! The supermarket was closed so instead of fried chicken we had Kentucky fried controller. It started going up a little hill just before the plaza where the supermarket is. Was fine going about 10 to 12mph until then I shut it down and at the bottom of the hill turned it back on. About 5 min. later more fire. Pushed and pedaled it to Eric’s house and got me and the ol lady a plate of food. Eric’s in jail but his wife, father and rest of family was there.

Pushed it home and got my camera and did the first video probably ever shot of running an e bike with the controller on fire. Did not expect full throttle and kill switch also failed when I hit it. Only thing that saved me was bike being low to the ground and got my feet on the ground to slow it down long enough to hit the battery switch in the back. see insanity. p5 & p6.

I learned two lessons. 1. Don’t take a controller board out of the metal case and zip tie it to the inside of a plastic coffee can upside down. 2. Do not attempt to operate an e bike awhile the controller is burning! I need to go get some beer. I hope the new controller shows up soon. As the Unite Motor Turns and the 36V Controller Burns. Thanks.
LC. out.
 
New controller came in today. Haven't opened it yet. Going home to eat something, take my BP. pills and install it. Thanks. The insanity video has volume. You can hear the bike accelerating. It was a hairy ride. Really scary when I hit the kill switch and the bike kept going!! :lol: :twisted: :lol:
 
latecurtis said:
Pushed it home and got my camera and did the first video probably ever shot of running an e bike with the controller on fire. Did not expect full throttle and kill switch also failed when I hit it. Only thing that saved me was bike being low to the ground and got my feet on the ground to slow it down long enough to hit the battery switch in the back. see insanity. p5 & p6.
Thanks. LC. out.
Damn! ... Brakes would have been handy! ... ?
 
The FETs (Field Effect Transistors) produce a fair degree of heat at a small point.
Each FET has a small heatsink with hole for mounting to a larger heatsink - the aluminum housing.
Removing controller will result in a burn up, either internal = failure (possible small explosion) or external = melt down or fire etc.
 
.................... Don't use universal controller with LiPo! ....................

Considering your posted treatment of batteries ...
You need to rely on a dedicated controller with proper LVC protection.
Mistreatment-damage is still possible, but it provides a basic protection against catastrophic destruction.
Otherwise you are liable to destroy your LiPo for a few minutes of excitement or ... laziness?
 
controller.JPGwireing.png

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LIPO Fire Burns.

I got totally robbed on the controller. The old controller ran better than this thing when it was on fire! I had to unhook it before it destroys my motor. I wonder if it is really a brushed controller.
Even the small motor made a noise at low throttle when I tested it. It dont matter if I use the pot or the throttle. The whole bike shakes and the motor makes a horrible vibrating sound. Low speed is very bad. Also it cuts off often. It only runs good at about 15 to 20mph.

It kept cutting out on the way back from downtown so had to go about 20mph to keep it running and I hit two pot holes on either side of a manhole cover and all my beer hit the road and one of them broke suds running all over the road. Lucky I didn't break my fork. The motor was also very hot.

I tried running it at 24V with the old SLAs after I got home. It ran a little better but still shook and made a lot of noise up until 10 or 12mph but then the motor cut out. Whatever you do don’t order one. I wish I could send it back as it is total garbage. See controller.

I will need a link to a good 36V controller. One that is made in the USA and will ship in a few days. No more Chinese controllers. Also I want to be able to use my pot. I use both the pot and the throttle. I hooked the throttle to the wires before the switch. When the switch is on the throttle wont work. see wiring.

As to what was posted earlier about the 5 horsepower AmpFlow motor and how a spoke sprocket won’t hold up I disagree. I saw a video of a guy with a very fast motor and when he hit the throttle it flipped him over on his back. It is the controller and the throttle, not the fast motors that are the problem. There should be an adjustment setting on controllers to set the level of acceleration so it can be manageable. The 36V controller worked perfect with the pot. There was no vibration and you could set it for walking speed. Not this new piece of shit!

I was thinking about putting the Ampflow on the back of the roadmaster anyway but it could work on the front. The controller however would need to do a good job at low speed and with the right pot. there should be a way to take off gradually. Slower acceleration should be a safety feature in controllers. Also a sensor cutting power instantly to the motor if one of the wheels is more than 5 inches from the ground or the bike at a certain angle.

Controlled acceleration to a top speed would not cause structural failure on that magnitude. Drag racing and LFPs Death bike however are a different story. How that bike is built is what I will need to do for an FX motor. A five horsepower motor could go on there right now and be just as safe as a 450W motor if controlled properly.

Hitting that pothole tonight scared me more than the flaming controller did last night. I am scared of the bike now! There is no doubt in my mind that thing could do close to 30mph. I felt the acceleration tonight up to about 20mph. It had lots left but let off as not to damage the new SLAs. It would be very scary at 48V. The chain on the front is loose now too. Not only do I need a controller, I need to reinstall the motor.

It vibrated a little with the old controller but not at really slow speed or over 10mph. I thought maybe the motor sprocket was loose but at high speed over 15mph and close to 20mph it runs very smooth and sounds awesome. It can’t be the sprocket. I am thinking about reinstalling the motor using wood again to reduce vibration and noise. I need good pressure treated. Not that soft pine I used before.
There is this guy down the road and a couple of kids who ride around with the front wheel up in the air. They pedal for blocks with just the back wheel on the ground. I should put the Unite motor on the back of the Roadmaster hooked to a pot. They can just set it to the speed they want and do their trick. They could go a lot farther if they didn't have to pedal.

I may just order some #25 chain and put the dual 24V 280W motors back on the front of the Diamond Back and get a new 36V controller and run them in series. Also I talked to a guy about a truck. A Chevy Taho 350 . Gonna talk the guy down to $1000. After that I am putting $2000 in savings and ordering a geared hub motor for the Magna.

I really want something smaller but if it runs good I could use it to move and then sell it and buy something smaller I can convert. I really need to learn more about controllers to get the quality I am seeking. If anyone knows where I can get a good controller proven and used by a fellow ES member please let me know.

I am trying to figure out why that new controller did that. Was the voltage too high at low speed? I thought the voltage was constant and current was variable. There has to be a reason why the new controller cannot work properly at slow speeds and the old controller worked perfect until it started burning and still worked better than the new one up until the video insanity. That’s how the new controller wants to act all the time. Is it a brushless controller maybe? If so then I did not waste my money as I can run the hub motor at 60V.

If not then I need my money back if possible. If not then I might just as well throw it in the trash unless someone knows what’s up with it. This is totally ridiculous. Now I got to wait for controllers. As a very last resort I could order another 36V exactly like the old one that caught on fire but am not waiting for free shipping. I could use two and a 48V one like that also for running the LIPO packs. I would be better of with that switch I ordered for LIPO but never used. Switch between controllers as I will never order another variable controller.

As a safety feature a battery kill switch should be on the handlebars also just in case of unexpected controller fire and full speed. Practicing switching them off together first the throttle or pot. kill switch on the right and then the batt. Switch on the left by the brake lever also. A thumb deal. click click. Right left. That would be the second batt. switch as the back switch is hidden for theft prevention.

Please post any decent controller links if possible. please let me know if anyone knows what’s up with this new controller. If it is brushed I got robbed big time. I am going controller hunting on e bay. . Please post if you can. I am looking for answers. Thanks.

LC. out.
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motorized-Bicycle-Brush-Speed-Controller-Box-36V-800W-For-Electric-Scooter-A4-/141742478322?hash=item21008293f2:g:RUwAAOSwDNdVyciO&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-50V-40A-DC-Motor-Speed-Control-PWM-HHO-RC-Controller-12V-24V-48V-2000W-MAX-/370962506627?hash=item565f16a383:g:LusAAOxyFjNSORPa

Will that work?




http://www.ebay.com/itm/1000-W-48-V-DC-Speed-Controller-for-scooter-mini-bike-quad-electric-1020-motor/161881444043?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3Da9ada086f46741b6af24d490684eacd9%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D161881435758

cant tell if it is a three wire throttle or not.

Only looking at US only. Not waiting forever for shipping. I will have the money next week. If anyone has a better link please post it. Also what to do with that piece of crap controller. Looked it up and says its brushed. Like to hit whoever sent it to me in the head with it. Almost destroyed my motor.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/800W-48V-DC-Speed-Controller-for-scooter-mini-bike-electric-motor-/161601339404?hash=item25a030c00c:g:LN8AAOSwpDdU36Ks

looks just like the old 36V one that burned up. Probably same three wires for the throttle. Will it work with 1,000W motor?

Also need a link for a lightweight (under 10lbs) geared hub motor kit for the Magna. 24V 500W.Also any 5s LIPO links to run it also. Please let me know which controllers above are the best.I Need to order one A.S.A.P. Thanks.

LC. out.
 
See - EBike Toolbox - Bargains! $
 
750w front hub motor
Likely requires 1500w+ at full throttle?

10Ah LiPo tested at 9Ah when delivered
30A controller draining 9Ah batteries @ 3.33C discharge rate
40A controller draining 9Ah batteries @ 4.44C discharge rate

10Ah LiPo at probable ~5Ah present deterioration
30A controller draining 5Ah batteries @ 6C discharge rate
40A controller draining 5Ah batteries @ 8C discharge rate
 
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