new eZip motor

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DrkAngel said:
I know math can be fun ...
But this is simpler?



11T (front sprocket) x "10.417" = 115T (rear sprocket)

But ... don't forget!
Listed speed is no load speed with 0 motor output.
ICE (Gas) motors attain maximum output near top rpm.
Electric motors attain maximum output near mid rpm and output diminishes towards nothing at top rpm.

Resistance curve might require 55mph gearing to attain 40mph.
(Unless motor rated output is for the noted rpm)
Click to expand...
Please note:
Very often RC flight motors are severely current regulated to provide maximum output at max rpm.
Sadly, for eBike applications, this can severely cripple low speed performance.
Upping controller amps might improve low end performance ... briefly ... smoke and burn!
 
As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns

Thanks to all of you for posting. I did want to hear from all of you.

Resistance curve might require 55mph gearing to attain 40mph.
(Unless motor rated output is for the noted rpm) ----------------------What does this mean? Do I need a smaller sprocket? I thought you said a 115 tooth would work?

I calculated the sprocket with the program you posted and put 43mph as top speed and came up with a 107 tooth wheel sprocket.
The problem is 90 tooth is the biggest I found on e bay. I could not find a similar motor around 36V which would work for a 90 tooth.
I will need a custom sprocket. I will try to get a 105 or 107 tooth if possible. According to the graph top speed should be somewhere between 40 and 45mph.
I think there is a link to a company which makes custom sprockets on the 10 kilowatt+ motor post.

As far as brakes go I do plan of fully functioning brakes front and rear before going more than 10mph with the bike. I would like to run disk but am not sure that is possible on a 20" bike without serious and expensive customizing. Please let me know? I bent the back rim when I slammed the bike. That is ok because the 80 tooth that is on it will eventually go back on the Currie. I want a dual sprocket 20" rim. Doug calls it a flip flop hub. A sprocket on each side. The motor side needs to be a freewheel correct? I need to pedal whenever I see a cop. The 62 tooth sprocket I got is not freewheel. It was a waste of money.

I have had no luck in finding this flip flop 20" hub. If somebody could please post a link that would be greatly appreciated. That and custom brake options. Disk if possible. Custom either way though. The motor on the back and basket on the front means I will probably need custom brakes or brake mounts. Please post some links if you can. Also what about rebuilding the MY1020 motor. Are there any parts for it? I need to fix it and put it back on the Currie where it belongs.
I want to order the new motor next month and finish the build by sometime in August. Thanks.

LC out.
 
I checked the size and weight of the motor. Very small and light. I have no idea how I will mount it though. I did not see any brackets or mounting holes. U clamps I guess if I mount it on the back. I was also wondering how poor the performance will be on low end.

Very often RC flight motors are severely current regulated to provide maximum output at max rpm.
Sadly, for eBike applications, this can severely cripple low speed performance.
Upping controller amps might improve low end performance ... briefly ... smoke and burn!

Even with effective brakes ...
A high center of gravity, on a small tired - short wheelbase bike seems ... iffy ... at best!- (suicidal?)

The center of gravity will be low as I will be mounting two of the SLAs as low as possible on the frame towards the front. The third will have to go on a rear rack above the motor. Disk brakes also hopefully.

Also I want to know what to expect or more information about the poor low end performance thing. If I get three 22Ah SLAs I might be able to run two motors. One on the back and one on the front. The 800W motor for low end and the Hobby king motor for top end. The 800W 36V motor DA posted is cheap and has the correct brackets to mount behind the seat. The RC motor is small enough to do the fork mount if I can figure out how the motor mounts. Mounting holes or brackets?

I could get the 800W motor first and the Hobby king motor when I get more money. I will need a flip flop hub and brakes either way. Please post a link for the 20" hub front and rear and any disk brake options for 20" wheels if there are any. Thanks. LC out.
 
Flip flop hub is threaded in the wrong direction ... won't work for motor.

Fixed sprocket is preferable >>> will slow you down when throttle released.

latecurtis said:
DrkAngel said:
Resistance curve might require 55mph gearing to attain 40mph.
(Unless motor rated output is for the noted rpm) ...
Click to expand...
----------------------What does this mean? Do I need a smaller sprocket? I thought you said a 115 tooth would work?
Click to expand...

DrkAngel said:
But ... don't forget!
Listed speed is no load speed with 0 motor output.
ICE (Gas) motors attain maximum output near top rpm.
Electric motors attain maximum output near mid rpm and output diminishes towards nothing at top rpm.

Resistance curve might require 55mph gearing to attain 40mph.
Click to expand...
 
If flip flop wont work then what I will need to pedal and run a motor also?

As far as disk brakes go it may not even be possible on the back with a motor sprocket on one side and a wheel sprocket on the other.
The other option is a good set of U brakes for the back. They are better than V type brakes right? A flip flop hub on the front should allow disk brakes for the front but I may need custom mounts installed of welded on the front forks. That cant happen either if I go with two motors.

So which is it? Do I need a sprocket for 55mph to do 40mph or will a sprocket between 100 and 115 tooth work. I need to know for sure before I order anything. If a smaller sprocket will work I could just use the 62 tooth and save time and money. Also if the low end performance will be that bad I might as well order the 800W motor you posted anyway. I could use specific answers and more information. Has anyone ever built an e bike with a motor like that? That would tell the story.

I think that I should get the next best alternative to Disk. U brakes or whatever works the best with the least amount of adjusting. Please post a link for good breaks for this build. Thanks again. LC out.
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/36V-1000W-Brush-Motor-Permanent-Magnet-Motor-DIY-Electric-Motor-E-Bike-Scooter-B-/271859556024?hash=item3f4c179eb8&vxp=mtr

I still like this motor but don't want to pay all that shipping from China. The 800W motor wont even do 30mph. It takes 1,000W to do 30mph correct?
If I can get the 36V 1,000W motor with those same mounts for under $100 with shipping I will go that route instead.

I still want to know if anyone has used a Hobby King RC motor for an e bike? I want to know exactly what to expect as far as low end performance and gearing.

Like I said before and like Dan said. I really don't have money like that! I cant afford any expensive builds right now. I would be happy rebuilding the motor or motors I have. I got no feedback on the rebuild kits and motor parts. The core and copper windings are still good on the MY1020 motor. It needs the case and magnet assembly and could use a new brush assembly.

Also Ricky next door said he will help me get it back together if I get the parts. If I get all new magnets I will have to remove and grind down the pieces that wont come out. The magnet I removed still has pieces that seem to be fused to the inside of the case. It can be done but will not be easy. I never even got a straight answer on if the Currie motor needs to be rewound. I assumed that it does as the copper windings look and smell burnt.

I would in fact rather rebuild both motors for under $70 and buy some #25 chain and brackets and get both the Currie and the Diamond Back up and running for around $100 total. If that is an option then I could really use a link for those parts. Also any videos on rebuilding and rewinding e bike motors.

Thanks. LC out.
 
Find a burnt up MY1020 motor.
Swap your innards.
Search ebay etc.
 
latecurtis said:
So which is it? Do I need a sprocket for 55mph to do 40mph or will a sprocket between 100 and 115 tooth work.
Click to expand...
Depends on if the "rpm" is at rated motor output or unloaded speed >>> ask retailer or contact manufacturer.
 
As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns.

6/15

Its like meat and potatoes. Motors and gears are what makes an e bike work. I think someone must have tried a Hobby King motor before. Maby someone on this forum. Where else are you going to buy a 3+ horsepower motor for under $100! And at 37V.

I can’t figure out why nobody seems to know where to get parts to rebuild motors or why cheap DIY gear reduction is not a more popular subject here. Anyone can order a Hill topper or similar hub motor conversion kit. I would like to move on to advanced e bike building. I am not going to settle with one functioning e bike. Not many serious ES members would.

I am not a Novice or beginner anymore. I want a 40+ mph bike this summer. There are at least two 1.500W 48V motors out there. That = two horsepower. 750W = 1hp correct. They are both well over $100. The Hobby King motor is over 3HP for $80 + shipping. I was told not to buy the MY1020 motor but I did and ran the Currie with it for two years.

6/16

I saw my friend Eric today. He is the scrapper. He has access to electric motors, bicycles and batteries from the scrapyard where he used to work back in 06. He is going to the Albiania site that sells unite motor parts. I can’t even afford minutes on my phone right now. It may be possible to call and order the magnets for the motor.

Also if I could learn more about DC motors the scrap yard has them for a price. I just need to know what ones are worth buying. Also if AC motors have any useful parts that could work for DC. I was hoping to learn how to rebuild and rewind motors.

I am sure there are electric scooters out there on Craig’s list or e bay that are broken and need parts. We are a throwaway society. Most people excpecillay rich or upper middle class just buy new. Also how many broken gas scooters could be converted to electric if the gas motor is totally shot and not worth replacing or rebuilding. My friend Mike does gas motors.

The point is I am not just a guy who likes to ride an e bike. I want to learn enough to repair and rebuild and do low budget builds to sell and make a modest profit. I am not looking to make $80 an hour like an auto mechanic. I would be happy with an extra $50 to $100 a week on average. That plus three fully functional e bikes.

DA mentioned something about the 20" build. The reason for it is I live upstairs. The turn is narrow. 26" bikes with heavy motors are cumbersome. Damage was done to the walls and stairs. Plus the bike fell a couple times waking up the people downstairs and they complained. The landlady don’t want me to have any bikes inside. She wants me to buy a shed and put it in the back yard. It’s too much money and would probably get broke into.

I am tired of the constant complaining every time she comes up here. She even tried to blame the bikes on the front stone steps that needed repairing and painting twice since I moved here. And the railing which was from fallen ice. She even threatened eviction if I did not move the Currie from the downstairs hallway. I was also told it is a fire hazard blocking the stairs. It is my only exit which is also illegal.

I can’t afford to move right now and really need to get the 20" bike running. As cheap as possible. I told the landlady and she said a smaller bike would be better. I only run the Schwinn when I have to. It is lighter than the Currie but still cumbersome.

I may just order the 36V 800W motor DA posted next month. However I am not giving up on the Hobby king or Astro motors. They are small light powerhouses. Neither am I going to give up on motor rebuilding and gear reduction. These things are important if I ever want to make this more than a hobby. And I would like too. I could use some extra money comming in. Eric has a big basement I may be able to use it to store and work on bikes If there is any profit in it. Please post if you can.

Thanks. LC out.
 
$1,400 Dan! Really!! I would have to rob a bank or two to come up with money like that. I am looking at lower than low budget. Parts from the scrap yard. They pay for electric motors and batteries by the pound. I may be able to buy them for what they sell them for. I am looking at the absolute minimum amount of money to get an e bike rolling utilizing anything I can get my hands on for free or close to nothing. Controllers are cheap. I paid about $15 for my 36V controller. That should be the only thing I would need to buy new.

DIY low budget builds under $100 is what I need to start with. Maybe a scooter with a fried controller or motor. get it for $50 and put about $50 into it and sell it on Craig's list for $200. That's what I am looking to do. That is why I have a lot to learn. I am just looking for videos on rebuilding and rewinding motors at this point. Also any data base on what motor parts fit or are interchangeable. Please post if you can.

Thanks. LC out.
 
latecurtis said:
Its like meat and potatoes. Motors and gears are what makes an e bike work. I think someone must have tried a Hobby King motor before. Maby someone on this forum. Where else are you going to buy a 3+ horsepower motor for under $100! And at 37V.

I can’t figure out why nobody seems to know where to get parts to rebuild motors or why cheap DIY gear reduction is not a more popular subject here. Anyone can order a Hill topper or similar hub motor conversion kit. I would like to move on to advanced e bike building. I am not going to settle with one functioning e bike. Not many serious ES members would.
Click to expand...
People here use hobbyking motors. You only have to go outside your own thread and search for "Turnigy motor" or read the "E-Bike Non-hub Motor Drives" subforum. Example thread: http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=21638. You can't expect that those people will be reading your thread to answer your questions and serious ES members will do their own research rather than expect others to feed them the answers.
 
https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=289

I don't understand most of this. Very complicated and above my level. Maybe DA can make some sense of this. I am still looking at anyone who has used any similar motor to the one Hobby King has.
I don't have any minutes on my phone right now. If anyone does or has unlimited minutes it would be greatly appreciated if they could make a call to Hobby King or the manufacture and find out the exact details on that 3+ horsepower motor. I just want to know what gears I would need and what to expect from low end performance before ruling that motor out.
 
Good point Mark. I don't have internet at home so my research time is very limited. Thanks for that I will go there now.
 


That is truly amazing. If you take to the next level and on a 20" wheel it may be possible to attach it to the rim instead of the spokes. Paint the rim black and it would be barley detectable.
 
3220 Astro Brushless Motor


$695.00

so much for that idea!
 
I started a new post in E-Bike Non-hub Motor Drives. I want to know for sure before I order anything. Hopefully they will know as someone must have tried that motor or a similar motor before. My time on line is very limited. I don't have lots of time for research. I also don't want to waste money on something that wont work or don't perform. Please post anything on rebuilding or rewinding DC motors. Thanks.
LC out.
 
"Cheap gear reduction" units are typically extremely specific in the application, mounting, shaft, ratio etc.
More common, and universal, is the "Jack shaft" applied for gear reduction ... typically cheaper and customizable ratio. - do a forum search.

Replacing magnets might be more trouble and cost than finding a burnt motor and swapping your innards - if casing is dented or warped ... might break magnets during install or scrape during turning. Dependent on mounting method, special adhesive might be necessary?
 
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__14426__Turnigy_CA80_80_Brushless_Outrunner_50_80cc_Eq_.html

Looks like I need a bigger motor. Forget 45mph. I am going to put a unite 800 or 1,000W motor on the back first. Then when I get my brother in law (the welder) to extend the forks That hobby kink motor should start kicking in at about 25 to 30mph and get me up to 50mph :twisted: :D

LC out.
 
I used the sprocket calculator and set the maximum speed for 70mph to calculate a sprocket to do 50mph for that 81mm motor. I came up with a 67 tooth sprocket so the 62 tooth I have will work.

I use 80% of no-load rpms to do gearing calculations, seems to work for me.
Click to expand...

I will need another 62 tooth for a 36V 1,000 unite motor for the back.

I see 50mph in my future. I will run the SLAs for the 1,000W motor and the Lipos for the 81mm motor. It will be incredible.
 
I really want the 1,000W 36V unite motor. Who knows I may be able to get up to 55mph.
At least if I get pulled over on the highway I can tell the cop I was only doing the speed limit. The sighn said 55mph :lol:

I will go now and look. I need one from the US. I am not paying all that shipping from China.

Thanks. LC out.
 
http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/DC/4895-05317651.html?utm_content=DN&utm_term=1991-2002+Saturn+SL2+A%2FC+Condenser+Fan+Motor+Four+Seasons+91-02+Saturn+A%2FC+Condenser+Fan+Motor+1994+1999&utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&gclid=CJLO1omumsYCFVUWHwod3BQAgA

I have been searching all different types of motors. e bikes have been built with washing machine motors electric fan motors for cars. car starters and even window wiper motors. There are even a few AC motors that will work. I was thinking of a large AC fan motor with a cheap DC to AC converter or inverter.

It would be really cool to be able to go to an auto parts store or a scrap yard and get a motor for under $30 that would make the Diamond back go 10 to 20mph. I am thinking low budget here. Please give me some feedback. What is the dirt cheapest to get the Diamond back rolling at least 10mph? Please post if you can.

Thanks. LC out.
 
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