new eZip motor

[DrkAngel]

1. Turn on
Tap F8 key before starting Windows
Choose safe mode w\network
go to malwarebytes.org
download - install - update - run
download AVG free from AVG.com
reboot
install avg and run

2. If network won't connect
Go to Kaspersky.com and download KAV10 (with working computer)
burn to CD
boot from CD >>> run

Additionally install and run AVG & Malwarebytes

 

[Sunder]

I don't give up easily. A lot of people would have given up on a 20" build way back when the first Unite motor got broken. I have took short breaks to keep my sanity but have succeeded several times in getting it running however failed to keep it running for any length of time. Now I think I finally have it really close to perfect.

There's a line between persistent and foolishly stubborn. You say it's almost perfect, but I wonder how long it will last.

There's a saying that I've seen a few times in Aliexpress/Alibaba. I don't know if it's a Chinese proverb, or something they just made up, but it was "Less parts, less problems". As a sealed unit, a hub motor is almost as simple as it gets - direct drive especially. I suspect your bike will either require a high level of preventative maintenance, or will break fairly often.

I really look forward to the day when you come on here talking about all your adventures on your eBike, and how you enjoy the freedom, wind through your hair, etc. and all talk is about some fantastic future bike you're building, not problems you're having now.

I've had periods like that in my eBike journey. Hope you can get yours.

 

[latecurtis]

The new controller dont work at all. There is no power. I tried the throttle that came with the variable controller and the potentiometer and nothing. Two controllers. One which is defective and another that dont work at all.

The plug for the throttle is the only 3 wire plug and it says to put. I tried to take a picture but the camera dont work right either. All the other plugs are two wires. charge, brake, power locks, indicater and brake lights.

The blue and yellow for the motor and black and red for the battery are the same as the controller that burned up. I just dont get it. I am now out $56 between both controllers. I really need some answers. I really dont understand why it wont work.

I really need the bike as we have no food and I need to go to the grocery store. I dont know how it will run at 250W but assume that if the motor is 1,000W at 48V then it will work for pedal assist at 12V and 250W by hooking it direct to a battery thru the kill switch like I did with the little 24V 280W motor. It would not move the bike with my weight at 12V and 140W but the larger motor will have to work for now at 12V. I really dont have much choice. I am wondering if they make a potentiometer that will work hooking directly to a battery.

I seriouslly dont know what to do. I know hooking direct to a battery is wrong but I need the bike to run. The old controller that finally burned was hooked up about 20 times to two different Unite motors and the little 24V motors and it worked right till the end even when it was on fire and now I got a controller that runs like shit and one that dont work at all. I really want to throw the bike off the thruway bridge in front of oncomming traffic but it is not the bikes fault or my fault for that matter. It is the manufacturer of the controllers. What should I do now? Please let me know.

There are no bike shops anywhere around here that work on e bikes. The only thing I can think of is this guy Hubert who charged me $260 to upgrade the Currie from 24 to 36V about two years ago. I have $1900 in the bank. This bike will run if I have to spend every penny of it. I would rather pay someone here on ES money to help me get it going though. I will find out how much it will cost to ship it. Here in NY state it should not be too much.

DA. could you get it going for $50 or $100. I unhooked the battery terminal and turned the battery switch off in the back. There was no power and then when I was unhooking the controller there was a huge spark. It must have been a capicater. I am not touching it again. Either controller, and will pay money to get it going at this point. Either that or hook it directly to a battery or batteries. Please let me know. Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[slowhands]

It goes on and on. Curtis, you are weak on technical, so please listen to the advice they give. Yeah, sure.

You can probably run your bike on just the batteries and a switch. You will burn out many switches in a hurry, they are not for high current. That would require a starter solenoid, like for your car. It will abuse the hell out of your batteries and maybe burn out your motor at low speed. You'll have to flutter the switch to get variable speeds, but it has been done. It would sure be nice if you got the gremlins out and used a controller.

We used to have big vacuum column tape drives for computer backup. Anyway, for the reel motors we used a "bang-bang" servo. It was full on, full off, for milliseconds. Somehow it all worked. Your finger gets to be the control for a bang-bang servo for now.

 

[latecurtis]

Three brushed controllers. The little 24V is a single speed. I dont have the throttle which it came with. Even if I could get it going it would be 500W@24V constant. No good! The variable controller from 24 to 60V almost burned out my motor and would cut out at low speed and make the bike shake and the motor a terrible grinding noise and the new 36V controller wont work at all.

The old 36V controller worked for two years most of the time without a fuse. I would simply hook the blue wire to the positive motor and the yellow to negative. If they were reversed the motor sprocket would spin opposite. The power wires were simple red and black.

The throttle wires were red green and black. The red went to the red to a throttle or the center of the pot. the pot would work with the green and black wire hooked to the other two terminals. If it started at full speed in the full counter clockwise posistion I simply switched the green and black wire and leave the red in the center and it worked perfectly full clockwise being full throttle.

The new 36V controller has all the same wires except the green throttle wire is blue. No combination of wires work. It is ridecelous. Unless someone has some answers i have no choice but to hook up direct to 12V. 24V would be a disaster. May as well run the variable controller because either way I am ruining my motor. Please help I am really screwed. I gave Doug $30 all togeather for the brake job and just ordered two more SLAs today. What do I do? Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[Sunder]

What do I do? Thanks.

Are you going to listen to any advice given anyway?

Are you sure that the type of throttle it's expecting is the type of signal you're giving it? My understanding is that there's two types of signals that the controller can expect.

It's funny just a couple hours ago, you said:

I don't give up easily. A lot of people would have given up

And now you're saying:

I really want to throw the bike off the thruway bridge in front of oncomming traffic

.

Maybe some people are the type of people to experiment, push boundaries, do something bigger and better than everyone else. And there are some people that should follow the road more traveled. I thought you were the former, I'm starting to change my mind to the latter. You don't listen to advice, and you don't have the technical understanding to do it on your own, and you need your bike too much to live your life. It's not just a hobby for you, it's something you need.

 

[DrkAngel]

Picture doesn't look like the YIYUN YK31C controller you used to have!
But, don't forget to enable the "key" or "power lock"? wires. ... send the $50?

 

[DrkAngel]

Told you before ...
Your scooter throttle-controller is a contactor (on\off) not a "controller" (variable speed).

 

[DrkAngel]

Where is the site-item you purchased the controller from - (the one that doesn't work.)

 

[DAND214]

LC, the first thing is to get rid of that pot! A throttle is made to do that.
As DA said did you connect the power ignition switch or jumper to turn on the controller? It's listed on the web site DA listed which one it is.
Are the colors correct in the throttle plug?

What puzzles me is, how can you be such a pussy when it comes to a little spark. You talk tough but is that it? Come on, haven't you ever been shocked? Your only dealing with 36-50 volts, that's not gonna put you on you ass like 120 or better yet 240 will.

Now you have 4 trying to help but you don't seem to read what is posted or even response, in most cases. You only respond is if someone pulls you chain the wrong way. We are all here to help and sometimes it gets a real waste of time if you won't listen and/or respond.

Pay attention to what you are doing and listen to suggestions. Only way to learn is to do it till it works and we are willing to try to help.

As for sending that controller back, it's gonna cost almost as much as it cost to buy it!

Stay with it, you'll figure it out.

Dan

 

[latecurtis]

Went to the store and no internet when I got back. The phone battery died so I lost my hot spot.

battery in camera died too. I was close as I used a wire to short the brake sensor. I thought it was that. The power lock wires are now taped togeather.

I have no solder and my iron tip is totally shot. Cutting thin strips of electrical tape and am starting all over again.

pot worked perfect with the old controller. Good for slow speed, sidewalks and slippery roads. Also for pushing the bike up really steep hills to save my back. However in heavy traffic and high speeds the throttle is better. I prefeer both.

Controller is still on kitchen table. I should have it hooked up within the hour. I hope it will work. If it does I will post a short video.


Had to try everything. shorted the brake sensor. no go finally the second time switching the wires without shorting the brake sensors I got power. The throttle worked first. Then the pot. Going with a three way switch though as I dont want the controller to see a signal from the throttle and pot at the same time.

 

[DrkAngel]

10k pot would lower minimum speed.
But, not even sure pot will work with whatever brand controller you got ....
Typical Hall controller not designed to work with potentiomerter.

 

[DrkAngel]

As a rule of thumb ....
Your brakes should be capable of stopping your eBike quickly ... even while under full throttle-power.

 

[latecurtis]

 

[latecurtis]

The three way switch would not work as it was the old battery switch on the Currie. setting 2 parallels the batteries to run both packs at once I think. I hooked both the throttle and the pot with a kill switch for the pot. The video shows the pot on a low setting and when I hit the throttle it speeds up and when I release the throttle it goes back to the speed the pot is set at.

 

[latecurtis]

Thanks DA. I hope it lasts until I can get a new thumb throttle and a soldering kit. Everything is taped togeather. No good solid connections. Problematic. If it makes it to the store tommorow I will get the soldering kit and will also order a 36V thumb throttle. I need a beer. It has been a long night. Also I am going to follow the instructions to fix my computer. Thanks DA.

LC. out.

ps. OMG. Poor Skalabala posted a little while ago

Someone must know what the problem could be

" He still has not got that brushless motor running. It has been several months. He must be really pissed. See his brushless motor misfire post in motor technology. Damm that has to suck!

 

[latecurtis]

View attachment 2


last two zip ties. One on each side at the top. Will need a couple more. Got to protect the controller and the pot with a full basket

New pic third down from the top.(thank god for edit) shows a little white square on the upper left corner of the basket. Screw for the controller sticks out and sharp so I used the throttle plug I cut off and backed up the screw and ran it into that. I am going to paint it tommorow. The wood and the big wheel sprocket will be flat black. I might go over it with semi gloss and clear. I am not sure about the red yet. Also not sure about the heigth of the basket.

figured a way to hide the motor. Got to do the other side too and add some strips of gorilla tape. Still not sure if I am painting it all black or not. Probably would be more stealthey however red would be safer at night to see. Before I forget not only do I need a speedometer but a decent reflector for the back and a bright led headlight must happen. I need those things for saftey.

downloaded antimalware program. Hope it is the one DA said. Will know more tommorow. If this PC breaks I still got the library the next two days as their open FRI and SAT. Thanks again everyone.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LIPO Fire Burns.

Have to blow those peskey four wheelers off the road next summer. May need more than that. Heard one of them does 80mph.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2015-HPC-Crystalyte-The-Crown-GEARLESS-e-bike-Electric-Bike-Hub-Motor-60-MPH-/181161301492?hash=item2a2e0e15f4:g:8McAAOxyzfNRwfP0

Mabye one on the back and one on the front if cheaper than an FX 75-5 motor

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns. Whats next?

Bike is still at Dougs. $20 for parts and $20 for labor. I hope it is ready by tomorrow afternoon. The new SLAs should be in soon. It said 4 day delivery when I ordered them. The others did not take long.

Four runs for break in are the plan. The first two 5 to 7mph and 1 mile to 1- 1/2 mile. The second two about 2 to 2- 1/2 mile about 10mph maybe 15mph on the forth run for a few seconds.

After that I will be running all six SLAs together for 36V@20Ah and will do a video going at least 25mph. I will do a short video first going 5 to 7mph with the pot. mainly on the sidewalks showing the advantage of the pot.

I am not sure what the next build will be but now that I have more money coming every month I will be doing more builds. I am going to take the old broken motors to that guy Hubert to see if he can rebuild any of them. If he can rebuild them for $30 less than what they are worth or say $50 I will have the first unite motor done. The old Currie motor needs to be rewound I think. I may pay to have him do it but only if he shows me how it is done. I want to learn that.

He probably wont do anything as he is after big money but it is worth a try. I may build a dual motor set up on the Road-master or I might get a very light geared hub motor for the back of the Diamond Back. A lot depends on what deals I can find online. I have two questions if anyone is still reading this post.

Question #1. How light is a geared hub motor vs a non geared hub motor? I am looking for lightweight for the Diamond Back.

Question $2. Do they make spoke sprockets out of aluminum or other lightweight materials and smaller chain sizes than #415. For motors under 1hp smaller chain will also cut down on weight.

The 56T sprocket and #415 chain on the red bike plus the Unite motor make the front end very heavy. Without six SLAs in the back to balance the weight it would be too front heavy. However the bike is still easier to carry up stairs than the Currie or the Schwinn as it is more compact and the batteries are carried up separately.

Please let me know and if anyone has any links for the light weight hub motor and aluminum or #25 spoke sprockets please post them. I will be looking also. Thanks.

LC. out.

PS. I am still getting that 5 kilowatt hub motor but maybe not until spring.

 

[latecurtis]

Your brakes should be capable of stopping your eBike quickly ... even while under full throttle-power

Sounds like motor suicide. I would not try it!

DA posted the SLA suicide and I just read that again and thought about it. It would not be good!

I hope Doug hooks up my brakes right. I will be happy if they are simply operational.

In that video where my controller was on fire I was using the brakes. Motor is powerful!!!. It slowed it down enough to reach the battery kill switch in the back. I need to install a second batt. switch on the front left handelbar for emergencey. Everyone should have one in case throttle sticks. Might save someones hide. If I did not have that experience I would not know. We are the pioneers in the EV revolution.

Also a 20" bike is basically a kids bike. I got my feet planted. A 26" bike or larger, the meat wagon would have been on the schene and carted my sorry hide away for sure.

 

[DrkAngel]

You should want to get out of trouble (brakes) faster than you get into trouble (throttle).

 

[DrkAngel]

Your brakes should be capable of stopping your eBike quickly ... even while under full throttle-power

Sounds like motor suicide. I would not try it!

Exactly as damaging as a full throttle start ... just in reverse.

 

[DAND214]

SAVE YOUR MONEY!
You don't know what you will be getting or not, for a while.

Dan

 

[latecurtis]

got $1,900 put away in saftey deposit. Dont want to spend any of that until I find a place I want to move to or a vehicle that is reliable. I want to try and add about $200 a month if possible. I dont trust savings accounts as I have debit collectors including federal student loans and also dont trust identidy thieves plus anything over $2000 shows up in an account and they wont send my my monthly check. $733.

I would like to get a very light hub motor for a 20" wheel and four of those $20 4s packs next month if possible. I just need a really good deal. I could build the Dimond Back and with a rear 500W 24V Hub motor and studded tires as wide as will fit it should be half way decent on slippery roads.

4.1 * 8 = 32.8V LIPO power. 4.1 * 6 = 24.6V LIPO power.

That would be ideal if the motor could run on both 6s and two 4s packs in series. Running at 24.6V = 15 - 17mph and 32.8V = 20 - 22mph.

Those are the requirments I am looking at. Also The hub motor should not weigh over 10lbs. The red 20" bike is a heavy beast even with the wood brackets. I want to build the Dimond Back much lighter. I did not even know there was such a thing as a geared hub motor until DA. mentioned it. I like the idea because I need a very light bike right now instead of a really fast bike that is why I am not ordering an AmpFlow motor or a 5 killowatt hub motor YET! Maby next summer I may build a 24" Haro or Cannandale with Two 3300W AmpFlow motors on the back and the 5 killowatt crown hub motor on the front

For now though I just want to build a light-weight reliable bike. Please post when you can and I was glad to here from you guys today. I just rolled out of bed and am drinking coffee now. I am a very lazy alchoholic who stays up until 4 or 5 am drinking and sleeps all day. :lol: I got to go over to Dougs and get my bike soon. I really hope he got my brakes done and they work good. The brakes on the Dimond Back worked but there was lots of room for improvment. They were far from the Cantilever brakes on the Magna. The good thing about the front wheel drive set up is the bike naturally slows down with zero throttle. I barley need the brake going down small hills. The down side is, it is not easy to pedal without motor power.

I have been looking a lot and have not seen too many good deals on lightweight geared hub motors. If you guys know of a really light motor for a good price please post it. I have to go get bacon for breakfast at 4 pm :lol: I usually eat dinner around 10pm and dont usually open my first beer until midnight. :lol: I live a very useless life. If I did not work on e bikes there would not be much to live for at all Please post when you can. Thanks.

LC. out.

PS. Please dont mind my spelling. The spellcheck does not seem to be working and spelling never was my strong point. I was not spelling bee material in school.

i think Skalabala posted something on his brushless misfire post. I told him about the Crown Hub motor I found. I am going to read it now. It is in Motor technology. I will post later when I find out about my brakes.

WoW. Skalabala claims 7 killowatts out of his brushless motor and is building a 4 speed gearbox. I have no idea what that is but I just posted there and we are going to race someday when I build a death bike even though he lives in South Africa. tune into his post on Motor technology to find out how. :lol:

 

[DrkAngel]

Well 1st ... do you want a "legal" eBike build, or are you still determined towards illegal operation of an unregistered, uninsured motorized vehicle? ... w\DWI?

NYS eBike Bill has passed in the Senate and on track for Assembly passage then on to the Governor for signing into law. >> (2016)