DrkAngel
1 GW
Opening your own sawmill?
Cheaper to just buy the 2x4s for mounting the motor?
new eZip motor
- Thread starter latecurtis
- Start date
- Status
Opening your own sawmill?
Cheaper to just buy the 2x4s for mounting the motor?
latecurtis
100 MW
basically anyone that ever claimed that JB weld was any good is a liar. Total garbage. It did not matter for the 9 tooth motor sprocket off the Currie ad it was a different pitch as the sprocket don't even fit the chain. I ended up using the 11 tooth that was 17mm instead of 10 with the 11 tooth #25 sprocket JB welded inside it. It came apart while attempting to line up the sprockets. 
I still am trying to make them work. I filed off most of the JB crap and put the #25 sprocket on inside of the other like when it was welded and placed a washer on the outside and cranked down hard on the nut. Not sure if it will work. I really need a machine shop that can make the motor sprockets I need. I don't have the skills to modify a 11mm 9 tooth like DA said.
If there was a doubt about me ordering a hub motor next month there is not now. I am ordering the kit as soon as my money shows up probably Friday
I still am trying to make them work. I filed off most of the JB crap and put the #25 sprocket on inside of the other like when it was welded and placed a washer on the outside and cranked down hard on the nut. Not sure if it will work. I really need a machine shop that can make the motor sprockets I need. I don't have the skills to modify a 11mm 9 tooth like DA said.
If there was a doubt about me ordering a hub motor next month there is not now. I am ordering the kit as soon as my money shows up probably Friday
latecurtis
100 MW
I will paint it black. :lol:
Sunder
10 MW
latecurtis said:
I see a red door, and I want to paint it black?
No colors anymore I want them to turn black?
Got all my spare parts working on the same connector system last night. I decided not to spend the money on a 29er yet. I found a 26er on the side of the road, and was originally going to fit the 26" electric motor I had lying around, until a friend pointed out that the fork and the frame could fit 29er wheels on it. Since the 26er electric wheel is front, and is a heavy direct drive, while the 29er wheel is a Q100H, I'm going to try the 29er wheel.
Only problem now? NO BRAKES! Waiting on a longer v-brake arm so it can reach the bigger wheels.
All of a sudden, I feel like LC - hacking things together that were never meant to work together... They say you should be careful who you spend time with, because you're the average of your 7 closest friends. It's happening...
latecurtis
100 MW
As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns. A little help maybe?
the picture shows how I mounted the motor this time around. There is a small bolt on the bottom securing the bottom of the two by four to the fork. The four bolts in the top will keep the motor stable. Two things need to happen though before I can run it.
1. I will need to replace the motor sprockets on both bikes with a 9 tooth that fits on the motor. I will need two custom made by a machine shop as with the 11 tooth the 500W motor is over geared at 27mph and the 1,000W motor 35mph. 9 tooth motor sprockets MUST happen!
2. The bolt on the bottom going thru the fork will need to be removed and the 4 bolts which hold the handlebars loosened and the handlebars pulled back until the chain is tighter then a longer bolt with some washers between the wood and fork to hold it in place.
It may look unorthodox but is very convenient. I don't have to run any wires along the frame and the metal cash box not only protects the Lipo packs from puncture but also theft. It will be front heavy but with a rear basket I can put the chain and padlock back there which weighs as much as the Lipo packs if not more. Also 50 pounds of cargo easily.
As far as the 24" bike, Doug said that a 20" wheel on the front would make the frame too low and the pedals would hit the ground. He was wrong. The 24" wheel which was on the front was really bent and needed replacing. Now there is NO BRAKES!. I can put a heavy steel bracket across the forks and drill a hole in the center and lower the brakes down and into position.
Basically an easy fix. The thing is though I am sick and tired of working on them. The only reason I did work on them today is because if I did not I would have probably thrown out BOTH bikes. At this point I just want a running 20" bike with a motor for daily commute. The diamond Back will fit that bill. I am ordering the hub kit as soon as my monthly money comes in.
As far as the two other builds go I will order brand new brakes and pay someone $100 to fix both bikes. I would like two 9 tooth motor sprockets for proper gearing also. One for each bike.Proper gears and brakes are a must. The highest I will go is $150. $75 for each bike. I will pay for the custom 9 tooth sprockets and the brakes. afterwards I will install the rack from the red bike to the 20" bike the 500W motor is on now.
I will be installing the kit on the diamond Back and rebuilding the Currie back to how it was before I stripped it. I have the money in the bank to accomplish all of this but need a little help please. The closest ES member I know of it DA. If I can get a ride out there and pay you $100 + help also and buy a large pizza or have a cookout(I supply the food.)
This could take place at a campsite. My best friend Eric has a vehicle and is down for a weekend of camping.(grilling and chillin.) He will bring the wife and kids and I will bring the ol lady if I can get her out of the house. He drinks but is mellow. He plays Pirates tides of fortune almost all the time on his laptop.
I drink at night time but not during the day. During the day is when I like working on e bikes and riding them.
maybe Dan can come and rent a campsite also. It would be great to get together about once a year in the late spring or early summertime. My schedule is open as me and the ol lady are on disability. I know you guys work but can take a vacation. You would just have to plan it. I may pay someone to get the 20" bike going sooner but doubt I will find anyone capable here.
I would invite Sunder also but he lives in Australia. Not sure if he would want to travel that far. Same thing with Skalabala. I am not sure if there are any ES members closer than DA. I hope you guys will at least think about it. Please let me know. Thanks.
LC. out.
the picture shows how I mounted the motor this time around. There is a small bolt on the bottom securing the bottom of the two by four to the fork. The four bolts in the top will keep the motor stable. Two things need to happen though before I can run it.
1. I will need to replace the motor sprockets on both bikes with a 9 tooth that fits on the motor. I will need two custom made by a machine shop as with the 11 tooth the 500W motor is over geared at 27mph and the 1,000W motor 35mph. 9 tooth motor sprockets MUST happen!
2. The bolt on the bottom going thru the fork will need to be removed and the 4 bolts which hold the handlebars loosened and the handlebars pulled back until the chain is tighter then a longer bolt with some washers between the wood and fork to hold it in place.
It may look unorthodox but is very convenient. I don't have to run any wires along the frame and the metal cash box not only protects the Lipo packs from puncture but also theft. It will be front heavy but with a rear basket I can put the chain and padlock back there which weighs as much as the Lipo packs if not more. Also 50 pounds of cargo easily.
As far as the 24" bike, Doug said that a 20" wheel on the front would make the frame too low and the pedals would hit the ground. He was wrong. The 24" wheel which was on the front was really bent and needed replacing. Now there is NO BRAKES!. I can put a heavy steel bracket across the forks and drill a hole in the center and lower the brakes down and into position.
Basically an easy fix. The thing is though I am sick and tired of working on them. The only reason I did work on them today is because if I did not I would have probably thrown out BOTH bikes. At this point I just want a running 20" bike with a motor for daily commute. The diamond Back will fit that bill. I am ordering the hub kit as soon as my monthly money comes in.
As far as the two other builds go I will order brand new brakes and pay someone $100 to fix both bikes. I would like two 9 tooth motor sprockets for proper gearing also. One for each bike.Proper gears and brakes are a must. The highest I will go is $150. $75 for each bike. I will pay for the custom 9 tooth sprockets and the brakes. afterwards I will install the rack from the red bike to the 20" bike the 500W motor is on now.
I will be installing the kit on the diamond Back and rebuilding the Currie back to how it was before I stripped it. I have the money in the bank to accomplish all of this but need a little help please. The closest ES member I know of it DA. If I can get a ride out there and pay you $100 + help also and buy a large pizza or have a cookout(I supply the food.)
This could take place at a campsite. My best friend Eric has a vehicle and is down for a weekend of camping.(grilling and chillin.) He will bring the wife and kids and I will bring the ol lady if I can get her out of the house. He drinks but is mellow. He plays Pirates tides of fortune almost all the time on his laptop.
I drink at night time but not during the day. During the day is when I like working on e bikes and riding them. maybe Dan can come and rent a campsite also. It would be great to get together about once a year in the late spring or early summertime. My schedule is open as me and the ol lady are on disability. I know you guys work but can take a vacation. You would just have to plan it. I may pay someone to get the 20" bike going sooner but doubt I will find anyone capable here.
I would invite Sunder also but he lives in Australia. Not sure if he would want to travel that far. Same thing with Skalabala. I am not sure if there are any ES members closer than DA. I hope you guys will at least think about it. Please let me know. Thanks.
LC. out.
Attachments
latecurtis
100 MW
According to sprocket calculator the 1,000W motor is only over geared by 5mph. I don't see the sense in replacing it but sure it could run better if I did. The 500W motor is over geared by 7mph and sure to run like shit. 500W is only good for 20mph right?
I am still not ready to accept that nobody can make the 9 tooth sprockets I need. There are machine shops everywhere. There has to be someplace that would do the job for a reasonable amount of money. It is not like grinding a custom 80 or 90 tooth spoke sprocket. It is a small 9 tooth motor sprocket. It should be simple to find a place capable.
Why should my bikes run like shit for the sake of a slightly smaller sprocket. I will need two day shipping. Please post a link. I know DA said I could modify a 11mm 9 tooth D bore but I don't think I am capable. I just want to order them so I can get these bikes running. It will be about $250 for the hub kit and I really need to pay my utility bill instead. If I can at least get the 20" bike running with a 9 tooth I can wait on the hub kit. It should not cost over $50 to grind a couple of small motor sprockets. Please post a link. Thanks and post it when you can.
LC. out.
......
I am still not ready to accept that nobody can make the 9 tooth sprockets I need. There are machine shops everywhere. There has to be someplace that would do the job for a reasonable amount of money. It is not like grinding a custom 80 or 90 tooth spoke sprocket. It is a small 9 tooth motor sprocket. It should be simple to find a place capable.
Why should my bikes run like shit for the sake of a slightly smaller sprocket. I will need two day shipping. Please post a link. I know DA said I could modify a 11mm 9 tooth D bore but I don't think I am capable. I just want to order them so I can get these bikes running. It will be about $250 for the hub kit and I really need to pay my utility bill instead. If I can at least get the 20" bike running with a 9 tooth I can wait on the hub kit. It should not cost over $50 to grind a couple of small motor sprockets. Please post a link. Thanks and post it when you can.
LC. out.
......
DrkAngel
1 GW
Smarter to find a bike with brakes to begin with?
You're spending more on brakes than a new bike with brakes ...
You're spending more on brakes than a new bike with brakes ...
latecurtis
100 MW
I am not worried about brakes. I will get brakes when I get it running. Proper gearing is my big issue now. I already have money in both bikes. I need the name of a machine shop that will make the 9 tooth motor sprockets for the two current spoke sprocket set ups I currently have built. The JB weld FAILED MISERABLY! There was no plan B or backup plans. Also I don't have the skills to modify the 9T 11mm DA posted how too.
Sprocket calculator states with a 11T motor sprocket and 20" wheel and 60T spoke sprocket = 27mph A 9T = 22mph.
Sprocket calculator also states that a 56T spoke kit and 11T motor sprocket = 35mph. A 9T = 29mph.
If I cant find a 9 Tooth then I have to order an 11T for the 20" bike. The current sprocket on there probably wont work as it is the 11T 17mm. The wrong one I ordered that I am trying to make work. I need a break here! I need a link or number for a machine shop which will make the sprockets I need.
I know all you guys will say is get a gear reduction motor or a hub motor. I got that. It is the easy way to do things and conventional. The point is though I like building e bikes and like hooking stuff up. Experimenting ,modifying.Also customizing.
I went to college and plan on going back. Electrical technology. I want to specialize in electric vehicles. In 95 it was Audio. I went for a few semesters. I returned in 2005 and did about a year and was going for computers. I will be going back as I am disabled and my student loans will vanish over time by filling out the proper paperwork. When I return I will have a purpose.
I have learned quite a bit but fail to understand why the manufactures of these motors make them with the high rpms naturally requiring gear reduction. Why are 1500W brushless motors for example 5,000 to 7,000 rpm. They should know a 26" wheel requires much less rpm to accommodate a reasonable size sprocket. The same holds true for brushed AmpFlow motors. I seek answers. I am not an idiot. There has to be a logical reason for it. There also has to be cheaper less complicated gear reduction options out there when there is no choice. I look but still need good precise proper links.
Doug said he will get the brakes going for like $20. I am not worried about brakes until I get the bike running. Please let me know before Friday as I will have to order the 11 tooth then. I am not taking the 11 tooth off of a functional e bike (the 24") as it took DAYS to get it running as good as it does. Only when I get a 9T to replace it will I take off the 11T. Unfortunately it is too heavy for the stairs and needs BRAKES too. I don't know if I am ordering the hub kit or not. I need a small 20" bike for the stairs and to get around town with.
I may get a couple more locks and a tarp and when I get the front brakes going for the 24" bike I can lock it to the metal stair rails outside in the front and cover it with a small tarp. If the landlady says anything I will tell her it is either the hallway downstairs or out front. Nothing to lock it to in the back yard. Too easy to steal without being noticed there. I don't have a lot of money in the 24" build. As long as there is a tarp covering it so it don't get wet when it rains I am good. I can put a basket on the front for the Lipos in the cash box and the chain and padlock to even out the weight. Running the 24" exclusively for now is another idea.
Please let me know about the motor sprockets. I wont ever give up on a 9T Dual D bore 10mm. Unite motors are affordable and the 9 tooth motor sprocket is simple gear reduction and the perfect mate for 56T and 60T spoke sprocket kits. Please let me know. Thanks.
LC. out.
Sprocket calculator states with a 11T motor sprocket and 20" wheel and 60T spoke sprocket = 27mph A 9T = 22mph.
Sprocket calculator also states that a 56T spoke kit and 11T motor sprocket = 35mph. A 9T = 29mph.
If I cant find a 9 Tooth then I have to order an 11T for the 20" bike. The current sprocket on there probably wont work as it is the 11T 17mm. The wrong one I ordered that I am trying to make work. I need a break here! I need a link or number for a machine shop which will make the sprockets I need.
I know all you guys will say is get a gear reduction motor or a hub motor. I got that. It is the easy way to do things and conventional. The point is though I like building e bikes and like hooking stuff up. Experimenting ,modifying.Also customizing.
I went to college and plan on going back. Electrical technology. I want to specialize in electric vehicles. In 95 it was Audio. I went for a few semesters. I returned in 2005 and did about a year and was going for computers. I will be going back as I am disabled and my student loans will vanish over time by filling out the proper paperwork. When I return I will have a purpose.
I have learned quite a bit but fail to understand why the manufactures of these motors make them with the high rpms naturally requiring gear reduction. Why are 1500W brushless motors for example 5,000 to 7,000 rpm. They should know a 26" wheel requires much less rpm to accommodate a reasonable size sprocket. The same holds true for brushed AmpFlow motors. I seek answers. I am not an idiot. There has to be a logical reason for it. There also has to be cheaper less complicated gear reduction options out there when there is no choice. I look but still need good precise proper links.
Doug said he will get the brakes going for like $20. I am not worried about brakes until I get the bike running. Please let me know before Friday as I will have to order the 11 tooth then. I am not taking the 11 tooth off of a functional e bike (the 24") as it took DAYS to get it running as good as it does. Only when I get a 9T to replace it will I take off the 11T. Unfortunately it is too heavy for the stairs and needs BRAKES too. I don't know if I am ordering the hub kit or not. I need a small 20" bike for the stairs and to get around town with.
I may get a couple more locks and a tarp and when I get the front brakes going for the 24" bike I can lock it to the metal stair rails outside in the front and cover it with a small tarp. If the landlady says anything I will tell her it is either the hallway downstairs or out front. Nothing to lock it to in the back yard. Too easy to steal without being noticed there. I don't have a lot of money in the 24" build. As long as there is a tarp covering it so it don't get wet when it rains I am good. I can put a basket on the front for the Lipos in the cash box and the chain and padlock to even out the weight. Running the 24" exclusively for now is another idea.
Please let me know about the motor sprockets. I wont ever give up on a 9T Dual D bore 10mm. Unite motors are affordable and the 9 tooth motor sprocket is simple gear reduction and the perfect mate for 56T and 60T spoke sprocket kits. Please let me know. Thanks.
LC. out.
DrkAngel
1 GW
9T 10mm Dual D sprocket
11T Dual D and 9T D 10mm sprockets are stamped from sheet metal.
Machining a 9T sprocket would be an expensive-complex process at any machine shop.
I offered 2 recommendations for creating a Dual D 9T sprocket that could, reasonably simply, be accomplished by any machine shop.
High RPM Motors ... Why?
The powerful small motors are high rpm because it is possible to get more power out of a small motor by upping the voltage and , as a result, the rpm.
These motors are pushed to their limits to provide maximum output for the weight ... at the sacrifice of durability and lifespan. Thin windings, less durable components, etc - disposable ...
Sadly, for you, this makes them extremely susceptible to self-destruction when run consistently at low rpm under load.
Reasonable Solution?
Run 36V motor at 24V ... 3000rpm over-geared motor becomes 2000rpm reasonable geared motor?
Too Reasonable Solution?
$50 24V 350w gear reduction motor (300rpm) similar to oem eZip motor - pushes nicely to 36V 525w (450rpm)
6s and 12s LiPo "safetied" by 24V and 48V controllers!
Given your propensity for destroying Lead acid (SLAmassacres) this will be explained if and when battery care explanations finally sink in.
Suffice it to say that, given your present battery use-abuse, your 12-60V pot controller is a good way to destroy your LiPo!
LiPo Evaluation
You completed step 1 in your new LiPo test, botched step 2 and dismissed steps 3 and 4!
Well ... I guess you're the one who has too live with them.
Personally, I would prefer to know what I am living with, self-discharging cells, low capacity cells, danger point of discharge, danger during normal charge etc etc etc.
Use low voltage alarms to limit some types of danger and extend life!!!
11T Dual D and 9T D 10mm sprockets are stamped from sheet metal.
Machining a 9T sprocket would be an expensive-complex process at any machine shop.
I offered 2 recommendations for creating a Dual D 9T sprocket that could, reasonably simply, be accomplished by any machine shop.
High RPM Motors ... Why?
The powerful small motors are high rpm because it is possible to get more power out of a small motor by upping the voltage and , as a result, the rpm.
These motors are pushed to their limits to provide maximum output for the weight ... at the sacrifice of durability and lifespan. Thin windings, less durable components, etc - disposable ...
Sadly, for you, this makes them extremely susceptible to self-destruction when run consistently at low rpm under load.
Reasonable Solution?
Run 36V motor at 24V ... 3000rpm over-geared motor becomes 2000rpm reasonable geared motor?
Too Reasonable Solution?
$50 24V 350w gear reduction motor (300rpm) similar to oem eZip motor - pushes nicely to 36V 525w (450rpm)
6s and 12s LiPo "safetied" by 24V and 48V controllers!
Given your propensity for destroying Lead acid (SLAmassacres) this will be explained if and when battery care explanations finally sink in.
Suffice it to say that, given your present battery use-abuse, your 12-60V pot controller is a good way to destroy your LiPo!
LiPo Evaluation
You completed step 1 in your new LiPo test, botched step 2 and dismissed steps 3 and 4!
Well ... I guess you're the one who has too live with them.
Personally, I would prefer to know what I am living with, self-discharging cells, low capacity cells, danger point of discharge, danger during normal charge etc etc etc.
Use low voltage alarms to limit some types of danger and extend life!!!
latecurtis
100 MW
OK I just got close up pictures of the 9 tooth D bore and 11 tooth dual d bore, both 10mm from electric scooter parts. I want to make absolutely sure that they will work before spending over $30 for two with the shipping.
I don't understand the part about "or fill other side with JB weld? It makes no sense to me. It looks like I need to file the flat side to where the white line I drew. Like I said I am not looking to spend $30+ for sprockets unless I am 100% positive they will work. Also a local machine shop will most likely charge 2 hours labor or over $50 to do the deed. This needs to be something I can do with a dremel tool kit. I don't have one but probably could get one cheap at Wall-Mart. Please let me know. Thanks.
LC. out.
I don't understand the part about "or fill other side with JB weld? It makes no sense to me. It looks like I need to file the flat side to where the white line I drew. Like I said I am not looking to spend $30+ for sprockets unless I am 100% positive they will work. Also a local machine shop will most likely charge 2 hours labor or over $50 to do the deed. This needs to be something I can do with a dremel tool kit. I don't have one but probably could get one cheap at Wall-Mart. Please let me know. Thanks.
LC. out.
Attachments
DrkAngel
1 GW
Nope ...
Compare more carefully!
Compare more carefully!
latecurtis
100 MW
ok. It has to be filled in. I guarantee JB weld wont work. Total garbage!! It will have to be welded by a welder I guess. I still don't see why nobody makes dual d bore 9 tooth motor sprockets. The Unite motor company should. I guess they expect everybody to use cheap #25 chain for every application. This is ridiculous. The simplest solution I see is like you said DA.
The Unite 36V 800W 2800rpm motor is the perfect solution as it will run at about 533W and 1,867rpm at 24V. I just checked it and it is perfect for 20mph with a 11T motor and 60T spoke sprocket. What to do with the 500W motor? Not enough power for the Currie. I am not sure but think that the only way I can run it is with the #25 motor sprocket. Also a rear mount like the 24". The only way I could use it for the Currie would be to gear it lower for hills. That would be impossible with any sprocket currently made. The only way to run that motor on a larger than 20" wheel is friction drive or belt driven.
I guess I will have to go back to #25 chain and sprockets. I did not waste my money on the 60T spoke kit though as it will be going on the front of the 24" bike. It will have a 48V controller like the one on the back and a thumb throttle on the left handlebar plus a second 48V 1,000W motor. The 60T spoke sprocket on a 20" wheel with a 3,000rpm motor and 13T motor sprocket gears the bike for 39mph. The same 1,000W motor on the back of the bike is geared for 35mph. Working together the two motors should be able to achieve about 37mph I would think. Please let me know. Thanks. LC. out.
Inserting this at edit time. If the 9T D bore would slide on motor shaft how about solder the gear to the motor? JB weld is not strong. I took material science in college. But thru actually using materials I think fiberglass resin is stronger than JB weld. That 17mm sprocket nightmare on the 500W motor proves it. I posted the pictures of the weld job. I will show the 11T 17mm sprocket and the #25 11mm sprockets that WERE JB welded together tomorrow. unbelievable
What is the minimum price for a small welder. Welding the 9T D bore to the motor shaft is the best idea yet. MGI photo suite is an awesome approx. 15 year old software program but still effective. 32 bit only though is drawback. see bottom pic. Wish they machined them. :lol:
The Unite 36V 800W 2800rpm motor is the perfect solution as it will run at about 533W and 1,867rpm at 24V. I just checked it and it is perfect for 20mph with a 11T motor and 60T spoke sprocket. What to do with the 500W motor? Not enough power for the Currie. I am not sure but think that the only way I can run it is with the #25 motor sprocket. Also a rear mount like the 24". The only way I could use it for the Currie would be to gear it lower for hills. That would be impossible with any sprocket currently made. The only way to run that motor on a larger than 20" wheel is friction drive or belt driven.
I guess I will have to go back to #25 chain and sprockets. I did not waste my money on the 60T spoke kit though as it will be going on the front of the 24" bike. It will have a 48V controller like the one on the back and a thumb throttle on the left handlebar plus a second 48V 1,000W motor. The 60T spoke sprocket on a 20" wheel with a 3,000rpm motor and 13T motor sprocket gears the bike for 39mph. The same 1,000W motor on the back of the bike is geared for 35mph. Working together the two motors should be able to achieve about 37mph I would think. Please let me know. Thanks. LC. out.
Inserting this at edit time. If the 9T D bore would slide on motor shaft how about solder the gear to the motor? JB weld is not strong. I took material science in college. But thru actually using materials I think fiberglass resin is stronger than JB weld. That 17mm sprocket nightmare on the 500W motor proves it. I posted the pictures of the weld job. I will show the 11T 17mm sprocket and the #25 11mm sprockets that WERE JB welded together tomorrow. unbelievable
What is the minimum price for a small welder. Welding the 9T D bore to the motor shaft is the best idea yet. MGI photo suite is an awesome approx. 15 year old software program but still effective. 32 bit only though is drawback. see bottom pic. Wish they machined them. :lol:Attachments
latecurtis
100 MW
As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns. Fantasy/reality.
As far as I can see modifying a D bore 9 tooth sprocket is not practical or feasible. Any attempts to do so will fail miserably. I suppose a professional welder could weld the 9 tooth D bore to the motor shaft permanently. TOO MUCH TROUBLE if you ask me. However due to the fact they don't manufacture what I require I am not taking the blame that the 24" bike is over geared. A 1,000W motor is capable of pushing a bike to 30mph according to DAs graph so I am wondering if the fact that the bike slowed down up hills was partly due to inefficient SLAs or the Lipo packs Dan sent are getting weak. I never ran the bike with the new Lipo packs.
I really did not want to spend the money this month but right now I don't have a e bike to ride except for the Schwinn which I usually only take out when I really need to. The 20" bike will need the #25 sprockets again if there is any hope of success. The 24" bike will need the front brakes hooked up for the 20" wheel. As for the diamond Back that is the reality part of this post.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Bike-Conversion-Kit-Front-Hub-Motor-with-20-24-26-28-700C-Rim-/151610151588?var=&hash=item234cab52a4:m:mdJv1BcnXEhFJd-_eTGPfmA
ORDERED!
I have a few days to get the brakes installed for the diamond Back. I get a lot of constructive criticism here on this post but I do listen somewhat. I agree 100% that hub motors are much easier to set up and usually run very well. Less maintenance and very efficient. The only thing I disagree with is that a 20" bike is too small as I have been riding around on them for awhile now. I know if I go jumping curbs or slamming into potholes it will fail eventually but for daily commute at reasonable speeds there is nothing wrong with running a 20" bike. Thanks.
I just installed the 80 tooth #25 sprocket on the freewheel as that is the proper way to mount it. I checked the wheel and thought it was straight but obviously I was 100% WRONG! I thought that when I installed it to the spokes that maybe it was slightly off center. Now I am not so sure. Also this is a different rim that I thought was straight. It looks like every 20" rim I have is JUNK. It may not be my poor mechanical skills causing me to fail each time.
As usual DA your 100% correct. The new kit will be here in a matter of days. April 5 to April 9. I seriously doubt Doug will have my brakes hooked up in time. He will be too busy playing Doom4 or playing with computers. The only option I have is a brand new 20" bike from Wall-Mart.
I just ordered the 11 tooth dual d bore from electric scooter parts. I am not screwing around anymore with #25 junk chain and sprockets. A 500W motor geared for 27mph. If it wont go up a hill then I will have to get off the bike and walk up the damm hill I guess. thanks.
LC. out.
As far as I can see modifying a D bore 9 tooth sprocket is not practical or feasible. Any attempts to do so will fail miserably. I suppose a professional welder could weld the 9 tooth D bore to the motor shaft permanently. TOO MUCH TROUBLE if you ask me. However due to the fact they don't manufacture what I require I am not taking the blame that the 24" bike is over geared. A 1,000W motor is capable of pushing a bike to 30mph according to DAs graph so I am wondering if the fact that the bike slowed down up hills was partly due to inefficient SLAs or the Lipo packs Dan sent are getting weak. I never ran the bike with the new Lipo packs.
I really did not want to spend the money this month but right now I don't have a e bike to ride except for the Schwinn which I usually only take out when I really need to. The 20" bike will need the #25 sprockets again if there is any hope of success. The 24" bike will need the front brakes hooked up for the 20" wheel. As for the diamond Back that is the reality part of this post.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Bike-Conversion-Kit-Front-Hub-Motor-with-20-24-26-28-700C-Rim-/151610151588?var=&hash=item234cab52a4:m:mdJv1BcnXEhFJd-_eTGPfmA
ORDERED!
I have a few days to get the brakes installed for the diamond Back. I get a lot of constructive criticism here on this post but I do listen somewhat. I agree 100% that hub motors are much easier to set up and usually run very well. Less maintenance and very efficient. The only thing I disagree with is that a 20" bike is too small as I have been riding around on them for awhile now. I know if I go jumping curbs or slamming into potholes it will fail eventually but for daily commute at reasonable speeds there is nothing wrong with running a 20" bike. Thanks.
I just installed the 80 tooth #25 sprocket on the freewheel as that is the proper way to mount it. I checked the wheel and thought it was straight but obviously I was 100% WRONG! I thought that when I installed it to the spokes that maybe it was slightly off center. Now I am not so sure. Also this is a different rim that I thought was straight. It looks like every 20" rim I have is JUNK. It may not be my poor mechanical skills causing me to fail each time.
As usual DA your 100% correct. The new kit will be here in a matter of days. April 5 to April 9. I seriously doubt Doug will have my brakes hooked up in time. He will be too busy playing Doom4 or playing with computers. The only option I have is a brand new 20" bike from Wall-Mart.
I just ordered the 11 tooth dual d bore from electric scooter parts. I am not screwing around anymore with #25 junk chain and sprockets. A 500W motor geared for 27mph. If it wont go up a hill then I will have to get off the bike and walk up the damm hill I guess. thanks.
LC. out.
latecurtis
100 MW
As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns. inferior products. :x
I talked to Doug earlier. He told me that Wall-Mart bikes are garbage with cheap aluminum brake parts. He said he wont charge me and get good cantilever brakes for the diamond Back. He claims around $20 but I'm not buying that. It has to be at least $30 and change.
Doug said the bike I just put the motor on was garbage too. He said the red bike is better. That was fixable he said. I am really sick and tired of installing motors. This motor job mounting to the handlebars has to be the most difficult challenge for me. It takes hours to get it right. The sprockets still are far from 100%. The larger chain though may run a little crooked. Either it was too loose or crooked. It is very difficult to line those sprockets. I wish I had a good mechanic friend.
The guy downtown says he is an experienced auto mechanic but I highly doubt it. He says I need a welder. I told him FOR WHAT! Could use it for a 9 t motor sprocket and chopper forks but not for mounting the motor : and who is buying it. Have I not spent enough money just to walk! I just need SKILLS. something I struggle with every time I try to install a motor. It is very disenchanting that none of my friends except for you guys work on e bikes. I wish I lived closer. I need a little help lining up the sprockets. I hope it will work.
The other thing is the rear chain don't fit and I think the pedal crank is shot. Doug also said the back end was bent.
Basically the bike is a total hunk of shit with absolutely no brakes. :lol:
Also I really hated taking the 11T sprocket off the 24" bike. That was not a picnic installing that motor either. It was a sacrifice I was reluctant to make. At least I ordered another one. It was totally functional but too much weight in the back like the Currie. A nightmare on the stairs. I wish I could have simply moved when I could not park an e bike downstairs.
Why do I like it?
There are many reasons. I will list them.
1.) It will blend in to the urban environment here perfectly. 20" bmx style bikes painted black are a dime a dozen in the city. It will go unnoticed by local law enforcement.
2.) I need something to ride around on until I build the diamond Back. I wanted to go downtown to see my friend earlier on but did not want to walk over 5 miles total down and then back after drinking. I did not want to spend about $20 on a cab either.A sidewalk special painted black at night is inconspicuous and cheap transportation. Basically I need to get around easily when I want to.
3.) I hooked up the plug for the new Lipo packs. Before with the red bike I had to carry it downstairs and lock it to the rail. A second trip up the stairs for the SLAs, maybe two if running four of then. A third or fourth trip for the plugs or clips then usually a fifth or sixth trip to get my keys for the lock and whatever I may take with me in a backpack. By that time I really don't want to go anywhere. I feel like a YO YO. :x Up and down stairs five or SIX times. REALLY It is a nightmare when I am hung over and don't want to go anywhere anyway.
With this bike I plan on a SMALL metal container large enough for a single 6s LIPO pack above the motor hooked to the bolts. There will be a really small container somewhere on the back for the second pack and when I am ready for the trip home I simply switch to the fresh pack. I can have everything hooked up and ready and throw my back pack on and ONE trip down the stairs will do. That is why I don't ride big e bikes much anymore I guess. A pain in the ass living on the second floor.
The paint however is complete SHIT! :x I will have to do several coats if it even sticks. I should have got black spray primer. I just wanted to do it inside without all the overspray and smell. I will put some time into the bike. I plan on getting fine 220 grit sandpaper and sanding the primer smooth. I want to do a flat black look for the entire bike. probably 70% of the black 20" bikes here are stolen and painted black. Cops see them every day many times riding around. Like shopping carts they know they are probably stolen but really don't want to be bothered with paperwork. :lol: Much better than fire truck red.
I just hope Doug can fix the pedal sprocket and hook up the brakes from the red bike. They worked ok and all I need is a shorter cable on the front. These are very simple things. When I need to get somewhere I don't have 1/2 hour setting up an e bike. I can walk half way there in the time it takes me to get ready. Please post when you can. Thanks.
LC out.
I talked to Doug earlier. He told me that Wall-Mart bikes are garbage with cheap aluminum brake parts. He said he wont charge me and get good cantilever brakes for the diamond Back. He claims around $20 but I'm not buying that. It has to be at least $30 and change.
Doug said the bike I just put the motor on was garbage too. He said the red bike is better. That was fixable he said. I am really sick and tired of installing motors. This motor job mounting to the handlebars has to be the most difficult challenge for me. It takes hours to get it right. The sprockets still are far from 100%. The larger chain though may run a little crooked. Either it was too loose or crooked. It is very difficult to line those sprockets. I wish I had a good mechanic friend.
The guy downtown says he is an experienced auto mechanic but I highly doubt it. He says I need a welder. I told him FOR WHAT! Could use it for a 9 t motor sprocket and chopper forks but not for mounting the motor : and who is buying it. Have I not spent enough money just to walk! I just need SKILLS. something I struggle with every time I try to install a motor. It is very disenchanting that none of my friends except for you guys work on e bikes. I wish I lived closer. I need a little help lining up the sprockets. I hope it will work.
The other thing is the rear chain don't fit and I think the pedal crank is shot. Doug also said the back end was bent.
Basically the bike is a total hunk of shit with absolutely no brakes. :lol:
Also I really hated taking the 11T sprocket off the 24" bike. That was not a picnic installing that motor either. It was a sacrifice I was reluctant to make. At least I ordered another one. It was totally functional but too much weight in the back like the Currie. A nightmare on the stairs. I wish I could have simply moved when I could not park an e bike downstairs.
Why do I like it?
There are many reasons. I will list them.
1.) It will blend in to the urban environment here perfectly. 20" bmx style bikes painted black are a dime a dozen in the city. It will go unnoticed by local law enforcement.
2.) I need something to ride around on until I build the diamond Back. I wanted to go downtown to see my friend earlier on but did not want to walk over 5 miles total down and then back after drinking. I did not want to spend about $20 on a cab either.A sidewalk special painted black at night is inconspicuous and cheap transportation. Basically I need to get around easily when I want to.
3.) I hooked up the plug for the new Lipo packs. Before with the red bike I had to carry it downstairs and lock it to the rail. A second trip up the stairs for the SLAs, maybe two if running four of then. A third or fourth trip for the plugs or clips then usually a fifth or sixth trip to get my keys for the lock and whatever I may take with me in a backpack. By that time I really don't want to go anywhere. I feel like a YO YO. :x Up and down stairs five or SIX times. REALLY
It is a nightmare when I am hung over and don't want to go anywhere anyway.With this bike I plan on a SMALL metal container large enough for a single 6s LIPO pack above the motor hooked to the bolts. There will be a really small container somewhere on the back for the second pack and when I am ready for the trip home I simply switch to the fresh pack. I can have everything hooked up and ready and throw my back pack on and ONE trip down the stairs will do. That is why I don't ride big e bikes much anymore I guess. A pain in the ass living on the second floor.
The paint however is complete SHIT! :x I will have to do several coats if it even sticks. I should have got black spray primer. I just wanted to do it inside without all the overspray and smell. I will put some time into the bike. I plan on getting fine 220 grit sandpaper and sanding the primer smooth. I want to do a flat black look for the entire bike. probably 70% of the black 20" bikes here are stolen and painted black. Cops see them every day many times riding around. Like shopping carts they know they are probably stolen but really don't want to be bothered with paperwork. :lol: Much better than fire truck red.
I just hope Doug can fix the pedal sprocket and hook up the brakes from the red bike. They worked ok and all I need is a shorter cable on the front. These are very simple things. When I need to get somewhere I don't have 1/2 hour setting up an e bike. I can walk half way there in the time it takes me to get ready. Please post when you can. Thanks.
LC out.
Attachments
DrkAngel
1 GW
A couple obvious problems!
Using your 4 bolts and washers will put additional tension on certain spokes causing the wheel to warp!
Putting the 9 spoke mount sprocket on a 48 spoke wheel will never center-align properly ... designed for multiples of 9 on each side of wheel, 18 spoke or 36 spoke only, 54 spoke possibly? - told you this multiple times! ... ???
DrkAngel
1 GW
You write large meandering posts!
Try reading 5 minutes for every hour you spend writing?
Try reading 5 minutes for every hour you spend writing?
DAND214
10 MW
Thanks again DA, short and to the point.DrkAngel said:
I told LC that I'm here but not posting
Dan
LC,,,, STOP DRINKING AND SEE HOW MUCH BETTER YOU CAN LEARN HOW TO DO IT RIGHT!
DrkAngel
1 GW
Not designed for bicycles ... obviously!latecurtis said:
Scooters, go-carts etc ... 10-12" tires!
DrkAngel
1 GW
latecurtis said:
Gear for 37mph:
At 37mph motor can output 1000w ...
At 20mph motor can output~550w(?) ...
At 3.7mph motor can output ~100w ... ? (not enough power to climb any hill - similar to manual transmission car coughing and sputtering up hill in 3rd gear)
Simple, and reasonable, math.
Gear for 20mph:
At 20mph motor can output 1000w ... (Might climb same hill @ ~20mph!)
At 3.7mph motor can output ~185w ... ? (enough power to climb some hills - similar to manual transmission car powering up hill in 1st gear)
Assumes current restricted motor - high w output
latecurtis
100 MW
View attachment 2[attachment=2[attachment=1As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns. It is running!https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LTZLOHQiiD0&feature=youtu.be
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZW0iQhqHVkA&feature=youtu.be
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7In01KHe6a8&feature=youtu.be
Basically it is not even close to perfect. NO BRAKES!!! Shitty gearing and no pedal. It is what it is. A project bike. I am calling Doug to see about a truing stand. I am sick and tired of bent rims and need to learn how to true a wheel. Second I am going to attempt to install the brakes from the red bike on it
Talked to Doug. The plan is Monday he will come over and take the brakes and pedal crank off the red bike and install them on this bike. He said maybe Home depot or Lowes for the smaller mailbox. I am on my way walking to do laundry and Wall-Mart. I am getting black spray primer and paint for painting the bike in the back yard. I wrapped black gorilla tape around the coffee can for now.
I want it the exact size for one single pack. Not for those packs either but for a 20.0 6s pack from Hobby King if they ever get off of backorder! I am thinking about a small pouch also behind the seat for a spare pack. NO back rack just something large enough to hold a spare pack. I am keeping this bike as lightweight and simple as possible.
The picture of the balancer shows the voltage after running the pack. I will run it down to 3.6V then balance charge it to 4.2V again. Also the spoke sprocket needs more fine tuning. I am hoping to install the brakes from the red bike so I can go down hills. I can walk up hills also as the bike will be useless going up them. DA. If you really think a 9 tooth can be modified to work for that motor please give me a price. I will send you a money order to your computer shop and if you know a local machine shop that can make it happen it will be greatly appreciated. I have called around and nobody does that here. If the price is right I might have three or four of them done for future builds.
It will be good for short runs to Wall-Mart and the grocery store with a backpack. There really is not much of any hills to deal with going there. Downtown however I will wait for the Diamond Back and the 48V front hub motor. It will be more suitable for hills up and down as I am getting good new brakes for it. DA. please let me know about the 9 tooth sprockets. I will work on truing wheels and brakes. I know what is wrong with my builds. I seek solutions. At least when I get the 20" hub kit I will have a good running reliable bike for daily commute. Thanks for posting guys.
LC. out.
Attachments
DrkAngel
1 GW
For 1000w to push a bike at 30mph , the 1000w output must occur at 30mph!DrkAngel said:
Gearing for 1000w at 37mph might mean <750w motor output at 30mph.
48V = 1000w output
compares to
44.4V = 925w output
Using low Ah battery, combined with low voltage LiPo, means battery voltage sags to controller LVC under heavy throttle.
Fortunately, considering your propensity towards battery abuse, this is your safety net!
Your universal 12V-60V pot controller is the exception, defeating these "built-in" safeties. With it you can quickly destroy your LiPo! - Motor too ...
Sagged voltage with high amps at low speed ...
DrkAngel
1 GW
Still haven't figured how the cell level Voltage-Alarms work?
Did you even try?
Did you look at them?
Instructions on back!
Given your rigs, and battery use methodology, could save you from destroying your LiPo in a few minutes of foolishness-laziness?
Did you even try?
Did you look at them?
Instructions on back!
Given your rigs, and battery use methodology, could save you from destroying your LiPo in a few minutes of foolishness-laziness?
latecurtis
100 MW
The Lipos are rated for a very high discharge rate. 30C I think. I realize that that is an absolute maximum rate that could not be drawn by a 24V 500W motor. I don't have an AmpFlow or 900W Monster scooter motor here yet. The only way I see I could damage my brand new Lipo is by running them low or below 3.5V. I am not doing that. I am going to Wall Mart with one of them though and will bring my balancer along for the ride plus my trusty camera. NO BRAKES!! . :lol: Thanks for posting.
LC. out.
LC. out.
Skalabala
1 kW
You must get a 2 speed gearbox bud. This will solve all your problems.
Sunder
10 MW
Skalabala said:
More jerry-rigged pieces? As the Chinese say: "Less parts, less problems". A good engineering maxim if you ask me.
Why don't we introduce CVT, and a diff between front and rear so we can have AWD, with less slippage?
- Status
