new eZip motor

[latecurtis]

You must get a 2 speed gearbox bud. This will solve all your problems.


More jerry-rigged pieces? As the Chinese say: "Less parts, less problems". A good engineering maxim if you ask me.

Why don't we introduce CVT, and a diff between front and rear so we can have AWD, with less slippage?

I would like a two speed gearbox yes but don't even know what it is.
Sunder I have no idea what a CVT is. I know you mean well but the entire sentence is like Chinese to me. If I could see pictures of these things and specific links for parts it could happen. Is a two speed gearbox something I can order and install. If so count me in. If it is something I have to construct with parts from China but no specific links then count me out.

I have much trouble with simple things like lining up sprockets and brakes. Without a lot of help hands on I don't see it happening however if I could order the gearbox assembled and a plan to hook it up I would order it now. Please let me know.

Skalabala. You must have got that big block brushless motor going by now. You said you were hooking up a gearbox to it. Please post some pictures and maybe a video. I want to see it. Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[Sunder]

Now I'm embarrassed, because I'm not sure if Skalalaba was being sarcastic or not.

I didn't know you can get two speed gearboxes professionally made for bikes, and the external chain doesn't move, so you don't need a deraileur. Every Internally Geared Hub I knew about was 7/8/even 14 speed. I thought he was joking when he said you needed a two speed.

Here is a two speed gearbox: http://www.jensonusa.com/!5y0HpOnqSXOQ8S5pAgHaEQ!/Sturmey-Archer-S2C-Kick-Shift-Hub-Kit?utm_source=FRGLAUS&utm_medium=organic&cu=AUD&pt_source=googleads&pt_medium=cpc&pt_campaign=shopping_au&pt_keyword=&gclid=CIKPwO2Z9ssCFYUrvQodk8QCag

For $50 more, you can get a 8 speed gearbox, and have an all terrain bike: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/like/172080223562?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=107&chn=ps

 

[latecurtis]

I had overnight company and we got about 4 inches of snow. I finally got room again as they left and now I am going to try to hook up the brakes from the red bike. Not sure about the rear rack but I do need groceries so a basket would help. I really hope I can solve the gear issue. I will research the gearbox. It would be great for going up hills. Please let me know and post. Thanks.

I still don't see how it works. Is it for the hub kit I ordered. That is 850W and don't believe I would need it. It should be good on hills. I was wondering about the chain driven builds. A gearbox for each of them. I thought it was a gear reduction box or something.

LC. out.

 

[Sunder]

I still don't see how it works. Is it for the hub kit I ordered. That is 850W and don't believe I would need it. It should be good on hills. I was wondering about the chain driven builds. A gearbox for each of them. I thought it was a gear reduction box or something.

No, it's an internally geared hub. It has a single gear on the outside of the hub. This would be chained to your motor.

Inside, there are a number of gears binding it to shell of the hub, which by spoke and rim, connect to your tyre.

When you pull a tensioner through the gear shifter on your handle bar, it selects a different gear ratio, effectively changing how many turns of the wheel, for every turn of the gear.

One challenge would be that they tend to accept normal sized bike gears as the external gear. So you'd need to step it down somehow. Maybe reverse the ratios of the gears? Smallest number of teeth at the front, with the largest teeth you can find/fit at the rear?

Alternatively, reduce voltage and up current as much as you dare - having a gearing system will make your bike WAY more efficient anyway, reducing the power required to get up hills

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns. Good idea"

Do they make one already installed in a 20" wheel. If not could someone put it together for me if I were to order it? Will it work for these bikes?

I would not need the large spoke sprocket.

If I have to modify it I would probably fail miserably. However if I don't have to modify it I could do it.

I still want to know if DA could get those 9 tooth sprockets done at a machine shop and how much. If I could get two 9 tooth motor sprockets then the 500W 24V motor would be geared for 20mph and the 1,000W motor for 29mph. If I could send $100 to get it done I would have both bikes properly geared. :lol:

However If for under $150 I could order a 20" wheel with the internal gearbox and a shifter I could use it for the 20" bike and leave the 24" bike alone for now until I can afford to add another 1,00W motor for the front as I can use the 60T spoke wheel from the 20" bike and new 11T 10mm dual D bore I ordered. With two motors and controllers the 24" bike would not be over geared.

Either way I will be rolling good as the 850W 20" hub kit will be here in one to 5 days.
I was serious when I stated that I am an e bike builder. I should have four e bikes up and running by this summer.

1.) the Schwinn. In perfect working order currently.

2.) the 20" bike with the 500W motor. running but needs better gearing and brakes.

3 ) the 24" Needs new motor sprocket (ordered) and front brakes hooked up.

4.) The Diamond Back. Front hub kit on the way. Needs cantilever brakes. or equivalent.

Basically each bike will have its uses. The Schwinn is the ultimate reliable backup and is very reliable. The 20" bike with the motor on the front will be modified thru gear reduction for light cargo and good for small to moderate hills.

The 24" bike will become a race bike only once two motors are on it and decent front brakes it will be 35 to mph capable easily. It will be run on flat smooth roads will minimum traffic and pedestrians.

The Diamond Back with an 850W 48V 20" hub kit will be an all around daily commuter as reliable as the Schwinn but a smaller version better suited for the stairs. The Schwinn however will be more suited for very long trips 10+ miles as it is the Cadillac of e bikes. very smooth with good shocks and suspension.

Basically there is plenty going on here on As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns. Please post when you guys can and let me know about the geared hub with shiftier and the 9 tooth DA. I really like the internally geared hub idea better and the two motors on the 24" build. If it is possible for me to accomplish I will do it. Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[Sunder]

A shop would be more than happy to lace it for you since it's not electric.

But the issue is the speed of your motors. See the size of your gears? Normal gears are usually not more than about 2-3inch in diameter.

That's because the standard cycling cadence is 70-120rpm. Your motor "cadence" is 2000-3000rpm, so you need to reduce it at least 20 times.

 

[latecurtis]

HOW?

 

[Sunder]

HOW?

From that differential? Next to impossible.

Would be better off getting a lower RPM motor,

 

[latecurtis]

I am not sure how this geared hub works but if it is inside the hub then my spoke kit should work. If not then maybe there is a machine shop in Australia that can make the 9 tooth D bore work for a dual D bore. It still looks like that is my best option.

Skalabala , what do you think. You saw my pictures how will a 2 speed gearbox work for my set up. I am sure that big block brushless motor was more rpm than these brushed Unite motors. Did you get it going and do you have any pictures? Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[Sunder]

I am not sure how this geared hub works but if it is inside the hub then my spoke kit should work.

Think about that one for a moment... If you're pulling by the spokes (I assume that's what you mean by spoke kit), then nothing inside the hub is going to affect anything.

The gearbox works by multiplying or dividing the speed and torque from the hub to the spokes. If you're already pulling by the spokes, the hub can't work its magic.

 

[DrkAngel]

80T sprockets (and larger) available ... about the size of the 20" wheel ...
Custom Alloy Bicycle Sprockets - $80

 

[latecurtis]

yea I called them and talked to them a few pages ago. I posted it. I did not want to spend the money but guess it would be worth it. It definitely would solve my gear reduction problem for the 20" 500W motor.

Hub kit in any day now. Those builds will take back seat to Diamond Back.

DA. Thanks. I kind of forgot about them and lost track. You put me back on the correct path. The 500W motor will finally get correct gearing and 24" bike two motors with the 60 tooth on the front.


page 121 my post.

The conversation I had with the guy who makes 75+ spoke sprockets from $75 up to $90 told me that the sprockets are for standard #410 bike chain and people use the #415 chain because it allows for a margin of error which means if the sprockets don't line up 100% perfect it will still work. Only if you tell them to make a spoke sprocket for #415 chain will they do so. Please let me know if that makes any sense to you guys.

I always think cheaper and more simple. Also I like to get my own way and wanted the 9 tooth dual d bore so bad I dismissed the logical alternative. I figured the smaller motor sprocket would be cheaper . Thanks DA.

LC. out.

 

[ronnieb52]

OMG Ha Ha cant frocking believe this LOL

 

[Sunder]

OMG Ha Ha cant frocking believe this LOL

I can - Well, at least I can believe it's another person paying out this thread without contributing. Every time I see a name I don't recognise post to this thread, it's 9 times out of 10 a useless insult post.

It says a little about LC, a little about us (the regulars who try to help), but speaks volumes about the character of the poster. I'm guessing they're the same kind of person who enjoys telling disabled children that they're better off dead:

A furious father has taken to social media after his wife was left stunned after shopping at a Queensland Aldi where a staff member allegedly said her son “would be better off dead”.

https://au.news.yahoo.com/a/31272027/better-off-dead-aldi-worker-s-heartless-comment-to-child-with-cerebral-palsy/

Get over it. Nobody is asking you to contribute, nobody is asking you to read it, and it's not like your membership fees to Endless Sphere has gone up because this thread exists. You posted here solely for the purpose of gaining amusement at other people's expense, and that, sir, makes you the loser, and the man lacking character.

 

[DrkAngel]

80T sprocket is 13"+ ... but alloy, so will save several pound.

 

[latecurtis]

I have absolutely no clue what you guys are even talking about here! I am officially lost. I was trying to modify a 9 tooth d bore to a dual d bore. I knew about kings custom sprockets and talked about it at least once maybe twice. but already spent a considerable of money on the 60 tooth spoke sprocket and did not want to spend about $80 on a different spoke kit. I thought a smaller motor sprocket was my answer to the gear reduction problem.

Get over it. Nobody is asking you to contribute, nobody is asking you to read it, and it's not like your membership fees to Endless Sphere has gone up because this thread exists. You posted here solely for the purpose of gaining amusement at other people's expense, and that, sir, makes you the loser, and the man lacking character.

I hope your referring to ronnieb52 and not talking about me.

peace out.

 

[latecurtis]

80T sprocket is 13"+ ... but alloy, so will save several pound.

Yes I am probably going to order from Kings custom sprockets and use the 60T for the front of the 24" bike like I stated earlier. That way I did not waste my money on the 60T and might reach 40mph with two motors and have a properly geared cargo bike too. Also I got the front hub kit showing up soon.

I need to put the brakes and rear basket from the red bike to the other 20" bike with the motor on the front. Problem is I cant get of Pirates Tides of fortune. Its very addicting. :lol: I got to go now to make sure my Haven is not getting raided. :lol: Thanks for posting DA.

LC. out.

 

[Sunder]

I hope your referring to ronnieb52 and not talking about me.

peace out.

yes, but I doubt he'll check back here again to ever see that post.

 

[latecurtis]

he pops in once in a blue moon as they say. I know he posted here before twice I think but about 1 year apart I think.

ronnieb52 » Mon Jan 05, 2015 8:31 pm
Something Positive to say ?
Nope...
Have you ever gotten anything to work ?
My God. People have sent you a front hub and batteries and charger and you seem to get that messed up.
Why don't you read what they are telling you.
Now you want to build a shiny chopper that goes 43 MPH.

Yea I remember the guy. I found that by typing his name in the search.
Only thing he is right about is the 43 mph chopper. The Hub motor and batteries I got both work. In fact I will be running those Lipos Dan sent as soon as the new 20" hub motor shows up. They may be old but are balanced better than the new ones. I am running the new Lipo seperatly with the 24V 500W motor.

Actually I may just put the 20" hub motor on the red bike for now. It already has working brakes and the rear rack and basket for four SLAs or the old Lipo packs or both actually. I could run the Lipo until they slow down a little then switch to SLA. They have slowed down before but at around 3.6V. Not sure about the LVC on the 48V brushless controller that is included in the new hub kit. DA will know.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Bike-Conversion-Kit-Front-Hub-Motor-with-20-24-26-28-700C-Rim-/151610151588?var=&hash=item234cab52a4:m:mdJv1BcnXEhFJd-_eTGPfmA

If I do run SLA I will need to keep it less than 15mph as it may trigger the LVC as it is looking for > 30 amp discharge rate. It must be a powerful motor.
Also the old Lipo packs I will have to take it easy. I may want to order better LIPOs for it. I definatlly wont order from the company that sent me the unbalanced packs. :x
They are only good for the 24V 500W motor I think.

Also that $80 sprocket is expensive and a pain in the butt to install. It would be easier to order a 36V 800W Unite motor and run it at 24V for 533W and about 1800 rpm. I am not sure which way I am going with that. I will see how the new hub motor runs with the SLAs. If it will run at all on them. . Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

20" hub is gonna be the heavy hauler!
"Up to 25mph"
28" wheel = 25mph
20" wheel = 17.85mph

48V = 17.85mph (850w)
44.4V = 16.51mph (786w)

You gonna be flying up them thar hills!

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns. I hope DA is right.

http://www.leafbike.com/products/diy-bike-conversion-kit/20-inch-electric-hub-motor-kit/updated-20-inch-48v-1500w-rear-hub-motor-bike-conversion-kit-986.html

I have been reading about hub motors and the internal gearing can be changed. Sometimes you can pick different ratios when ordering. If DA is right.
Good. Then the red bike is perfect for it. I can put a basket on the front and run SLA in the back or run Lipo in the front and haul shit in the back. Good. I was thinking about using it for the red bike anyway when walking in the cold. Too much hassle switching everything over AGAIN! 25 degrees in April. Really!! I will finally have a cargo bike like the Currie. I ran 48V SLA with the Schwinn and that is a 1,000W hub motor so it should run either SLA or Lipo.

I may just learn to live with the over gearing on the black 20" bike for now. It is very easy to walk up steep hills when you are running a pot. Same thing you said about stairs but not in my case as the sharp turn towards the top plus the neighbor downstairs complaining about the noise. I did use the pot walking up a steep hill and is easier than walking without a bike.

I think I will just get some GOOD mabye Cantilever brakes for the black bike for down hills and hook up the pedal crank so I can pedal and call it a day. Actually I could get a cassette, derailleur and gears for pedal assist. Good for a little exercise like discussed earlier. Walk up steep hills and pedal assist on non steep hills. Either way I get exercise.

Where I live I don't need really good brakes to go to Wall-Mart or grocery shopping. No hills that amount to anything. Slow and cautious around here is necessary as no one obeys traffic laws. people drive like manics around here and there is a considerable amount of traffic. Also three major grocery stores are less than three miles. Slow and easy with the hub motor and SLAs or old Lipo should work.

I will run the new Lipo exclusively with the 24V motor. Hopefully I can set the Lipo alarm for 3.6V. When it goes off I switch the packs. Downtown is only
1.3 to 1.5 miles depending which part. 3.7 miles to Wall-Mart super center in Glenville. The Rotterdam square mall and Mohawk commons are 3.9 miles Since I own six new SLAs and will only use four for the new hub motor I have two left over just in case both alarms go off when running the new Lipo.
Since I don't buy groceries at those places it is good for me.

Looks like I will have a good cargo bike and a commuter bike. A 77T sprocket from Kings will gear it down to 21mph from 27mph. I will have the 20" wheel and 60T spoke sprocket for the front of the 24" bike. It would definitely be much easier to live with. I will look at my bank accounts tomorrow. May as well order the second 1000W motor for the front of the 24" bike awhile I am at it. I will need two motor sprockets though and already ordered a 11T replacement for the rear motor as I took the one off that 1,000W 48V motor for the 500W 24V motor.

http://www.leafbike.com/products/diy-bike-conversion-kit/20-inch-electric-hub-motor-kit/updated-20-inch-48v-1500w-rear-hub-motor-bike-conversion-kit-986.html

Perfect for the Dimond Back. Question 1. Would it go faster than the 24" bike with two 1,000W motors?

My second question for tonight is what should I gear the 24" bike for when ordering the front motor sprocket. It is currently geared for 35mph with the 56T spoke and 11T motor sprocket. I was thinking about a 13T motor sprocket for the front with the 60T spoke sprocket for 39mph gearing. How would it run with two separate but identical 48V 1,000W motors and controllers. Also will one thumb throttle work for both controllers or do I need one for each controller? Also can two controllers run off of two 6s Lipo packs? Will 16.0 work or should I order 20.0 from hobby kings famous back order list. Please let me know as I want to order the parts tomorrow. Thanks.



1 cargo bike. approx. 16mph - red center
1 commuter bike. approx. 20mph - right
1 race bike. approx 37mph. - left


LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

If DA is right. Good. Then the red bike is perfect for it. I can put a basket on the front and run SLA in the back or run Lipo in the front and haul shit in the back. Good. I was thinking about using it for the red bike anyway when walking in the cold. Too much hassle switching everything over AGAIN! 25 degrees in April. Really!! I will finally have a cargo bike like the Currie. I ran 48V SLA with the Schwinn and that is a 1,000W hub motor so it should run either SLA or Lipo.

Just remember ... your new "Heavy Hauler" is designed for 120-150lb(?) max capacity!

 

[DrkAngel]

After running the new LiPo down, towards 3.60V, how did the cell voltages compare?

 

[latecurtis]

I have not run them down that low yet. I only ran the one pack around the block a few times. maybe 1+ miles. Voltage is 3.89 to 3.91 currently. We got at least 4 inches of snow here and ice has not melted yet because it has been down in the 20s. We shall see and I will answer that question soon. The other pack or virgin pack is 4.14 to 4.17V. They were both charged to 4.2V about two weeks ago.

The red cargo bike should hold up well. As long as I don't run into a curb or another pothole from hell the weight should not matter. Remember DA. I hit a serious pothole with the diamond back about a year ago at about 20mph as the defective controller would not run the bike less than full throttle with the 1,000W motor and it was also the butchered fork that was on the D back 20" bike and the only thing that got hurt was my pride when three fine ladies saw five 24 oz full cans of beer and a 7 pound padlock and chain fly up out of the rear basket and land in the road. One of the cans was spinning around spewing foam all over the road.

The defective controller was also posted in your e bike tool box.
It would be nice to find out why it wont run a motor at low speed. It makes a huge grinding noise as it grossly over volts the motor for some reason and I don't see an adjustment on it. I would like to send it to your store so you can maybe diagnose the problem. I will never hook it up again the way it is and nobody around here can fix it. Also I paid over $40 for it if I recall. It is supposed to be variable from 24 to 60V which is better than the one with the built in pot (50V cutoff) if it was not defective for some reason still UNKNOWN. It could run 24, 36 or 48V. Good for a 1,000W 48V motor. I cant do that with the one with the pot. Please let me know as I can send it to you to look at. PM me with the address if you are willing to look at it. Thanks for posting.

LC. out.

 

[Skalabala]

For my build I am going to use a 50cc bike gearbox 3 or 4 speed.
But this was done by one of our great members
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=13731