DrkAngel
1 GW
Unclear from picture ... requires direct observation?
Should have requested 30 min installation manual! ... ?
Should have requested 30 min installation manual! ... ?
new eZip motor
- Thread starter latecurtis
- Start date
- Status
latecurtis
100 MW
ok what about this.
Like I said torque arms are covered with two muffles clamps from advanced auto for around $4 so I don't have to spend $30+ dollars and wait for the mail.
I turned the thing the other way. Hope it works. Tightened a little. I hope it is right. Please let me know.
LC. out.
Like I said torque arms are covered with two muffles clamps from advanced auto for around $4 so I don't have to spend $30+ dollars and wait for the mail.
I turned the thing the other way. Hope it works. Tightened a little. I hope it is right. Please let me know.
LC. out.
Attachments
DrkAngel
1 GW
Looks like you need a U washer.
Gives clearance-protection for wires.
Do not tighten against wires!!!
Gives clearance-protection for wires.
Do not tighten against wires!!!
DAND214
10 MW
The wires should face the ground and the plastic sleeve should be over the wires and into the axle. It looks like it was slid toward the plug and not into the axle. DA is talking about a C-washer that normally goes on the outside the fork that has lawyer-lips. you shouldn't need it if the wires are facing down and the fork opening is in line with them. My concern is the wrench on the fork. Is it a box wrench, if so, what size? if the opening is too big and If you tighten it tight enough, you might bend the fork, even if it doen't do it now it will later. Are the washers the ones that came with the kit? If so you should be ok. If they have a larger opening than a tight fit on the axle, it might bend the fork as I said. I take it that the wrench just spins on the axle and has no connection like a TORQUE arm has. As always, it's all up to you. The wrench could hold the axle from falling out of the dropouts but won't stop it from spinning the axle/flats around.
What does the name on the cover say?
Dan
What does the name on the cover say?
Dan
DrkAngel
1 GW
Need picture of all washers, spacers, nuts etc.
Did you have to stretch forks apart?
But wires should not be pinched by anything.
Pictured wires down between fork tongs.
Probable positioning but need picture of all supplied fittings for reasonable guess.
Likely washer with tang (Dual D?) positions outside fork, tang between tongs as additional anti spin - need picture of all washers, nuts etc !
Check wires for pinch damage!
Split or broken insulation could short and instantly destroy controller and\or motor!
Did you have to stretch forks apart?
But wires should not be pinched by anything.
Pictured wires down between fork tongs.
Probable positioning but need picture of all supplied fittings for reasonable guess.
Likely washer with tang (Dual D?) positions outside fork, tang between tongs as additional anti spin - need picture of all washers, nuts etc !
Check wires for pinch damage!
Split or broken insulation could short and instantly destroy controller and\or motor!
DrkAngel
1 GW
Appears to be an Aotema Sensor Motor (Extra sensor wires!)
Pictured was a sensorless motor = better ... ?
If newer model, might operate without sensor wires, if old model, sensor wires required.
Pictured was a sensorless motor = better ... ?
If newer model, might operate without sensor wires, if old model, sensor wires required.
DrkAngel
1 GW
Part II – Install New Wheel
1. Loosen the nuts on the motor kit wheel and place it into the fork. There are two possible ways it will go in. You want the motor wires exiting down towards the road. As you look at the bike upside down, the wires will be facing up. Also make sure the wires are on the left side of the bike when you are normally sitting on the bike. Note: On previous versions of the motor kit, the wires exited on the right side. Before riding the first time, lift the wheel and tap the throttle to verify correct rotation of the wheel.
2. The most common arrangement of the washers is to have the flat washer inside the fork next to the motor. The tabbed washer goes on the outside of the fork, then the nut. This is the recommended setup for dropouts with a flat surface for the nut and tabbed washer. If the axle fits in the dropout and the washers lay flat, continue on to Part III. Note: the dropout is the end of the fork where the axle fits into the U-shaped opening.
Box end of wrench as torque arm is probable to fail! Not worse than nothing, but pretty close ...
Drop out is alloy or steel?
Aotema Motor Kit Installation Instructions Rev 2.3
1. Loosen the nuts on the motor kit wheel and place it into the fork. There are two possible ways it will go in. You want the motor wires exiting down towards the road. As you look at the bike upside down, the wires will be facing up. Also make sure the wires are on the left side of the bike when you are normally sitting on the bike. Note: On previous versions of the motor kit, the wires exited on the right side. Before riding the first time, lift the wheel and tap the throttle to verify correct rotation of the wheel.
2. The most common arrangement of the washers is to have the flat washer inside the fork next to the motor. The tabbed washer goes on the outside of the fork, then the nut. This is the recommended setup for dropouts with a flat surface for the nut and tabbed washer. If the axle fits in the dropout and the washers lay flat, continue on to Part III. Note: the dropout is the end of the fork where the axle fits into the U-shaped opening.
Box end of wrench as torque arm is probable to fail! Not worse than nothing, but pretty close ...
Drop out is alloy or steel?
Aotema Motor Kit Installation Instructions Rev 2.3
latecurtis
100 MW
thanks for posting. was working all night with Doug setting up the new Quad for multimedia and win 10 on the eight core monster. hard drive failed on dual core HP that i was editing the pictures to post here. Once it is set up like before i will get new pictures and post them. finishing install now for 32 bit HP for programs. If I can find paint on the quad OS I will have pics up with that. Should be up soon. No money for torque arms though. Spent all the money building Big red and taxi cabs for Doug to help me and accessories. Broke until the first basically. I will have the pictures up soon. Thanks for helping.
There is paint on this laptop.
Should have pics up after a cup of coffee.
The way I see it is it is missing a washer. I don't want the wires pinched. There should be a washer with an opening for the wires for extra clearance so they don't get pinched.
I worry more about pinching the wires than the wrenches. I will try to make a washer that will fit. Also will need the muffler clamps to finish installation.
LC. out.
There is paint on this laptop.
Should have pics up after a cup of coffee.
The way I see it is it is missing a washer. I don't want the wires pinched. There should be a washer with an opening for the wires for extra clearance so they don't get pinched.
I worry more about pinching the wires than the wrenches. I will try to make a washer that will fit. Also will need the muffler clamps to finish installation.
LC. out.
Attachments
latecurtis
100 MW
As The Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns. The missing link.
That should have came with the kit. It only makes sense. There is no longer any question about pinching the wires.
Now the only question is Should I run it with the wrenches or wait until next month until I can afford the torque arms. Also will any torque arms work for those forks or are they special order. Please let me know. I will take your advice on it and wait if I have to.
It is time I start listening better. I can always install the 36V motor on the other black 20" bike with the really good brakes Doug installed. I will let it be your call but I need at least one 20" bike up and running THIS WEEK. Thanks. Please post when you can.
LC. Out.
That should have came with the kit. It only makes sense. There is no longer any question about pinching the wires.
Now the only question is Should I run it with the wrenches or wait until next month until I can afford the torque arms. Also will any torque arms work for those forks or are they special order. Please let me know. I will take your advice on it and wait if I have to.
It is time I start listening better. I can always install the 36V motor on the other black 20" bike with the really good brakes Doug installed. I will let it be your call but I need at least one 20" bike up and running THIS WEEK. Thanks. Please post when you can.
LC. Out.
Attachments
DAND214
10 MW
NO, NO, NO The washer you cut is bending and will spit out if you try it. Wires out the LEFT side sitting on the bike. It appears to be on the right. It looks Left side upside down. Turn the bike up and look at the arrow, if it's facing forward, forget what I said.
Read what DA posted about install. The tabbed washer in with tooth out will work with no C-washer. The real C-washers you buy are hardened not soft crap.
It appears you got away without Torque Arms with the Schwinn, so you might here. Concern is power, It should have less leverage to spinning the axle and speed up faster than the Schwinn, being a 20" wheel. Still you should consider the TAs.
I would use the stock washers and nuts that came with the bike with no wrenches. Make sure you tighten them good but not like bench pressing tight. Knowing you are a big guys don't over do it. Read the instructions again how to tighten the nuts, not too bad of a way to explain it to beginners if you don't work with tools all the time.
I.m sure DA will chime in if he hasn't already. He sees much more than I do in the pics.
Dan
Read what DA posted about install. The tabbed washer in with tooth out will work with no C-washer. The real C-washers you buy are hardened not soft crap.
It appears you got away without Torque Arms with the Schwinn, so you might here. Concern is power, It should have less leverage to spinning the axle and speed up faster than the Schwinn, being a 20" wheel. Still you should consider the TAs.
I would use the stock washers and nuts that came with the bike with no wrenches. Make sure you tighten them good but not like bench pressing tight. Knowing you are a big guys don't over do it. Read the instructions again how to tighten the nuts, not too bad of a way to explain it to beginners if you don't work with tools all the time.
I.m sure DA will chime in if he hasn't already. He sees much more than I do in the pics.
Dan
marty
10 MW
Best video on all of YouTube!
[youtube]qaBZEmN0Mvw[/youtube]
[youtube]qaBZEmN0Mvw[/youtube]
latecurtis
100 MW
Thanks marty.
Dan I have no choice but to use the washer I cut. There just is not enough room for the wires which are slightly but not too damaged to use. The cut washer allows for more clearance so when I really torque down on the nut the wires wont be damaged to the point of shorting out. I can get torque arms sooner maybe if not too much money.
The Schwinn has a torque arm on one side and a wrench on the other side. I checked really closely and without the washer I cut the wires will be pinched. Unless there is a special washer to order or get at a hardware store I have no choice but to use the one I modified.
Dan I have no choice but to use the washer I cut. There just is not enough room for the wires which are slightly but not too damaged to use. The cut washer allows for more clearance so when I really torque down on the nut the wires wont be damaged to the point of shorting out. I can get torque arms sooner maybe if not too much money.
The Schwinn has a torque arm on one side and a wrench on the other side. I checked really closely and without the washer I cut the wires will be pinched. Unless there is a special washer to order or get at a hardware store I have no choice but to use the one I modified.
DrkAngel
1 GW
Is wheel solidly attached to axle?
It appears to have too little clearance on one side and too much on the other ... shifted in shipping?
Test:
Set wheel on side, wires up.
Push down on motor disc, see if it will move at all. (NO HAMMERS!!!)
Try ... wire side with no washers between wires and fork, let wires set in slot of fork?
Lock washer outside fork, tab inward.
It appears to have too little clearance on one side and too much on the other ... shifted in shipping?
Test:
Set wheel on side, wires up.
Push down on motor disc, see if it will move at all. (NO HAMMERS!!!)
Try ... wire side with no washers between wires and fork, let wires set in slot of fork?
Lock washer outside fork, tab inward.
latecurtis
100 MW
The 36V motor is installed and ready for a test run. I already know before even trying it that at 24V and 1834 rpm at 533W it will run 100% better than the other motor at 2800rpm at 500W with that 60T wheel and 11T motor sprocket.
Pic fourth down from the top clearly shows the wires will be compromised without the washer I modified. If there is a different way to do it without damaging the wires I don't know how. The axle don't move when pressing down on the motor.
going for a short test run with the other bike I installed the 36V motor on. Thanks for posting and please let me know about the hub motor. I can order torque arms but cant install it without that washer or a replacement washer which accomplishes the same clearance for the wires. The wires are slightly damaged from trying to install it without the washer and I did not tighten it down that much. Please let me know what to do. Thanks.
LC.
ps. be back shortly to let you know how the new gearing works out.
Pic fourth down from the top clearly shows the wires will be compromised without the washer I modified. If there is a different way to do it without damaging the wires I don't know how. The axle don't move when pressing down on the motor.
going for a short test run with the other bike I installed the 36V motor on. Thanks for posting and please let me know about the hub motor. I can order torque arms but cant install it without that washer or a replacement washer which accomplishes the same clearance for the wires. The wires are slightly damaged from trying to install it without the washer and I did not tighten it down that much. Please let me know what to do. Thanks.
LC.
ps. be back shortly to let you know how the new gearing works out.
Attachments
latecurtis
100 MW
test run.
New Lipos are shit. At least that pack is anyway. Was 3.8V or higher and only went around the block a few times before the test run. Definatlly less than three miles. I Put the pack in the other cash box in case of fire. Piss poor pack. The bike did ok though and the brakes work well. Hate to throw out pack as it was about $75. It seem to recharge ok. Up to 3.7V after 30min of charging with no sighn of smoke.
I will have to figure those Lipo alarms out I guess. I will finish balance charging it and put it away in the dryer until tommorow. Maby hook it to the balancer overnight when it reaches full charge. I need to hook the Lipo alarm up when running the other pack tommorow so it dont happen again. When it started slowing down I thought it was the controller.
Please let me know what I should do.
New Lipos are shit. At least that pack is anyway. Was 3.8V or higher and only went around the block a few times before the test run. Definatlly less than three miles. I Put the pack in the other cash box in case of fire. Piss poor pack. The bike did ok though and the brakes work well. Hate to throw out pack as it was about $75. It seem to recharge ok. Up to 3.7V after 30min of charging with no sighn of smoke.
I will have to figure those Lipo alarms out I guess. I will finish balance charging it and put it away in the dryer until tommorow. Maby hook it to the balancer overnight when it reaches full charge. I need to hook the Lipo alarm up when running the other pack tommorow so it dont happen again. When it started slowing down I thought it was the controller.
Please let me know what I should do.
Attachments
latecurtis
100 MW
latecurtis
100 MW
As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns. Battery abuser guility as charged. :lol:
No smoke so far. I will check the pack for puffed cells tommorow. Leaving it in the cash box inside the dryer tonight.
I should have listened and used a Lipo alarm. I will from now on.
Also should invest in better Lipos.
Please let me know if the hub motor could work with the washer and how it is mounted. I cranked down pretty tight on it and would like to run it but am still willing to wait for torque arms. I will have to put a rack on the 20" bike I rode tonight as if the other Lipo pack is as shitty as the one on the charger right now I will probably have to run SLAs until I can afford new Lipo.
I think the old packs Dan sent me are better than these new ones I paid about $165 for.
I am sick of using this laptop and am going to fire up the quad core machine with the APU built in graphics. My media machine. :lol:
Thanks guys and please post when you can.
LC. out.
No smoke so far. I will check the pack for puffed cells tommorow. Leaving it in the cash box inside the dryer tonight.
I should have listened and used a Lipo alarm. I will from now on.
Also should invest in better Lipos.
Please let me know if the hub motor could work with the washer and how it is mounted. I cranked down pretty tight on it and would like to run it but am still willing to wait for torque arms. I will have to put a rack on the 20" bike I rode tonight as if the other Lipo pack is as shitty as the one on the charger right now I will probably have to run SLAs until I can afford new Lipo.
I think the old packs Dan sent me are better than these new ones I paid about $165 for.
I am sick of using this laptop and am going to fire up the quad core machine with the APU built in graphics. My media machine. :lol:
Thanks guys and please post when you can.
LC. out.
Attachments
latecurtis
100 MW
Had to reboot. Forgot the keyboard.
Nifty little machine. Good for multimedia but when I want to get serious I fire up BIG RED. That's the name for my gaming machine. :lol:
That thing under all the boxes is a 60" high definition 1080 by 780 maybe ? projection screen. Needs a DLP chip I think. It has hundreds of white dots.model #WD-60735
Kind of pricey but the thing is really light. < 50lbs I think. 2008 model. I bought everything except for a 4K TV so I may as well fix that. DA can you give me a price on the chip. e bay had one for $135 used but not chancing that. New was around $180. I hope to find one cheaper.
Going to go check the pack. Up to 3.81V after 117min. Timer will go off in 3 minutes. I could not figure out how to reset it so it don't go off after 120min.
Balanced charged for 2 hours at 1.5A
Two hours more at 2A
Ending voltage 4.12V approx. before unhooking charger. What should I do tomorrow? Bury it two feet in the ground and have a funeral. :lol:
Hope you guys will have some answers for me by tomorrow. Thanks.
LC. out.
Nifty little machine. Good for multimedia but when I want to get serious I fire up BIG RED. That's the name for my gaming machine. :lol:
That thing under all the boxes is a 60" high definition 1080 by 780 maybe ? projection screen. Needs a DLP chip I think. It has hundreds of white dots.model #WD-60735
Kind of pricey but the thing is really light. < 50lbs I think. 2008 model. I bought everything except for a 4K TV so I may as well fix that. DA can you give me a price on the chip. e bay had one for $135 used but not chancing that. New was around $180. I hope to find one cheaper.
Going to go check the pack. Up to 3.81V after 117min. Timer will go off in 3 minutes. I could not figure out how to reset it so it don't go off after 120min.
Balanced charged for 2 hours at 1.5A
Two hours more at 2A
Ending voltage 4.12V approx. before unhooking charger. What should I do tomorrow? Bury it two feet in the ground and have a funeral. :lol:
Hope you guys will have some answers for me by tomorrow. Thanks.
LC. out.
Attachments
DrkAngel
1 GW
Remove U washer.
Replace with wrench. - probably a metric size?
Use the slot end of a proper size wrench as your torque arm. (Not the box end!)
Should give plenty of clearance.
Solve 2 problems at once!
Replace with wrench. - probably a metric size?
Use the slot end of a proper size wrench as your torque arm. (Not the box end!)
Should give plenty of clearance.
Solve 2 problems at once!
DrkAngel
1 GW
LiPo looks better than expected.
Below ~3.50V there is nearly 0 energy, that cells were that close in voltage, indicates that all cells are of reasonably equal capacity!
Balance charge showed cells of equal voltage at minimal charge!
Too bad you never made the minimal effort to change the timer on your charger. Pretty sure I told you how, multiple times, and someone linked to the instruction manual that tells you how ... would tell the true-actual Ah capacity of the LiPo. Could be 7Ah to 4.12V (2hr @ 1.5A + 2hr @ 2A = 7Ah, might be near 8Ah charged to 4.20V\cell) "LiPo looks better than expected!"
I did warn you that with your pot controller and your typical battery abuse methodology you would destroy your LiPo!!!
I was adamant that you needed the voltage monitor alarms!!!
You have the alarms!
Too lazy to read the instructions on how to use them?
Too stubborn to use them?
Why is it that you tout me as some eBike expert ...
ask for my advice,
totally ignore my advice,
do the damage I advised against,
then finally concede "you might be right ... "?
Should I just ignore your questions ... as you ignore my answers-advice?
Stop wasting my time and effort?
Below ~3.50V there is nearly 0 energy, that cells were that close in voltage, indicates that all cells are of reasonably equal capacity!
Balance charge showed cells of equal voltage at minimal charge!
Too bad you never made the minimal effort to change the timer on your charger. Pretty sure I told you how, multiple times, and someone linked to the instruction manual that tells you how ... would tell the true-actual Ah capacity of the LiPo. Could be 7Ah to 4.12V (2hr @ 1.5A + 2hr @ 2A = 7Ah, might be near 8Ah charged to 4.20V\cell) "LiPo looks better than expected!"
I did warn you that with your pot controller and your typical battery abuse methodology you would destroy your LiPo!!!
I was adamant that you needed the voltage monitor alarms!!!
You have the alarms!
Too lazy to read the instructions on how to use them?
Too stubborn to use them?
Why is it that you tout me as some eBike expert ...
ask for my advice,
totally ignore my advice,
do the damage I advised against,
then finally concede "you might be right ... "?
Should I just ignore your questions ... as you ignore my answers-advice?
Stop wasting my time and effort?
latecurtis
100 MW
I don't see how the open end will work. boxed end + muffler clamp can stop the axle from coming out of dropout. How does the open end accomplish that?
I was told that Lipo exceeds SLA not only in lighter weight but the amp hours were more than SLA. The amount of power I used with the Lipo I don't see the result. I ran Dans 10 amp hour Lipo once combined at 44V for about two years without alarms and never dropped below 3.5V. This 22V pack is not even close to Dans Lipos. Dans Lipos were 100% superior than these. Surprised it did not start smoking.
I feel like an idiot for not getting LIFEPO4 when I got my settlement last year. SLA are lead ass heavy junk and Lipo total garbage in my book. Battery technology will either catch up or the EV revolution shall fail miserably.
I like riding e bikes but as far as building them that job is better suited to ES members more experienced and mechanically inclined. Thanks for posting and all I can do is try to do a better job tomorrow. That will include not discharging my Lipo pack below 3.4V hopefully.
Thanks. LC. out.
DrkAngel
1 GW
Purpose of torque arm, or wrench, is too keep motor-axle from twisting ... splitting drop out! ... not falling out!latecurtis said:
As I previously explained, multiple times, 48V controller with ~41V LVC protection keeps 44.4V LiPo nice and safe from your typical abuse. (12s x 3.50V = 42.00V) - nicely protected by 41V LVC! (Automatic protection!)latecurtis said:
"For good battery life and prolonged good performance ... you must discontinue discharge before eBike slows down!"
Damages all battery types!!!
41V LVC with 44.4V LiPo works nicely.
As I warned you, multiple times, your multi-voltage pot controller has no LVC protection!!! (Requires manual protection!!!)
As soon as speed-performance dips, you have dropped off the voltage-capacity cliff into the region of poor performance with maximal damage.
DrkAngel
1 GW
As I have explained multiple times previously ...
Search down my previous posts on the subject, if interested.
I'm just too tired of having to be constantly repeating myself ...
- Using small Ah battery:
(2 x 8Ah used singly vs 2 x 8Ah together as 1 x 16Ah) - is bad for performance
- is bad for battery lifespan
- reduces range
- reduces speed
- reduces performance
Search down my previous posts on the subject, if interested.
I'm just too tired of having to be constantly repeating myself ...
latecurtis
100 MW
As the Hub Motor Turns and the Lipo Fire Burns.
latecurtis
100 MW
Started out to be an average day. The ol lady made french toast and bacon and I went around the corner to cash in about $7.50 cents in empty beer cans mostly 24 oz. :lol: Then went to the bank to see if I had $20 left to take out to replace the hard drive in the old HP dual core and WOW. 
I had less than 1/2 hour to travel approx. 1.3 miles to the branch where my lock box is. Fortunately I had the other virgin Lipo pack on the charger as the voltage had dropped down some on the cells since charging to 4.2V a couple weeks ago now. pic 1. shows the current state of the pack I ran low last night.
pic 2 shows the voltage today on the pack I ran below 3V yesterday. Pic 3 shows the voltage of the virgin pack I ran today for approx.2.6 miles at 10 to 15mph.
The mistake I made with the other pack was running it from approx. 3.8V around the block several times before doing the video last night.
I was a little concerned running the other pack today without an alarm or the balancer. I was pressed for time and did not even bring my chain or lock. The lady in the bank watched it thru the window. She said "don't worry if anyone touches it I will take them down" I said I would love to see that. She was kind of hot. :lol:
I left close to $300 in the bank so I guess I have the money to order the proper torque arms for the Diamond Back with the hub motor. I would love to order the 4.5HP AmpFlow motor also but am going to pass on that. I am not getting stupid with my money this time. It is a second chance and I must do it right. If there is a different special washer to replace the one I cut for extra clearance for the wires please let me know as I will order it.
Also if the hub motor is geared for hills and is a heavy hauler I should get a chrome rear rack for cargo as the bike I rode today will climb small hills no problem but then I did not have much weight on the back. No way it would go up the larger hill downtown. For all around performance and reasonable speed 25 to 27mph there is no substitute for 36V. The best performance up hills and flat out acceleration and speed is the Unite 48V 1,000W motor run at 36V, 2,250rpm and 750W.
I am going to go shoot a video now of the performance of the bike.
I had less than 1/2 hour to travel approx. 1.3 miles to the branch where my lock box is. Fortunately I had the other virgin Lipo pack on the charger as the voltage had dropped down some on the cells since charging to 4.2V a couple weeks ago now. pic 1. shows the current state of the pack I ran low last night.
pic 2 shows the voltage today on the pack I ran below 3V yesterday. Pic 3 shows the voltage of the virgin pack I ran today for approx.2.6 miles at 10 to 15mph.
The mistake I made with the other pack was running it from approx. 3.8V around the block several times before doing the video last night.
I was a little concerned running the other pack today without an alarm or the balancer. I was pressed for time and did not even bring my chain or lock. The lady in the bank watched it thru the window. She said "don't worry if anyone touches it I will take them down" I said I would love to see that. She was kind of hot. :lol:
I left close to $300 in the bank so I guess I have the money to order the proper torque arms for the Diamond Back with the hub motor. I would love to order the 4.5HP AmpFlow motor also but am going to pass on that. I am not getting stupid with my money this time. It is a second chance and I must do it right. If there is a different special washer to replace the one I cut for extra clearance for the wires please let me know as I will order it.
Also if the hub motor is geared for hills and is a heavy hauler I should get a chrome rear rack for cargo as the bike I rode today will climb small hills no problem but then I did not have much weight on the back. No way it would go up the larger hill downtown. For all around performance and reasonable speed 25 to 27mph there is no substitute for 36V. The best performance up hills and flat out acceleration and speed is the Unite 48V 1,000W motor run at 36V, 2,250rpm and 750W.
I am going to go shoot a video now of the performance of the bike.
Attachments
- Status
