new eZip motor

[latecurtis]

You tube sucks. TOTAL GARBAGE!!

It would not open for me either as I tried to in a different browser. You see I posted the picture and it said public.

Mable if I change it to private it will come out public. Or maybe I should forget about You tube because it is ToTal TRASH.

What do you guys think. I think we should trash talk Youtube because it sucks. It was not a long or important video anyways but the other ones I did before were decent.

My question was SLA terminal connectors. I got cheap ones from Advanced auto but they tend to slip off. I need to get good ones online hopefully e bay. Also parallel charging cables. six SLAs parallel series for 36V is complicated and add shitty terminals and it is WORSE than alligator clips.

Yes both gas vehicles are mine and are doing what every gas vehicle in the world should be doing. NOT RUNNING. :lol: :lol:
Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[Sunder]

Jump in Sunder. Do you still have the link to the hub kit?

Sorry, its been too long now. I think after a year, the eBay link disappears and you only get a one line description. After a while even that vanishes.

 

[latecurtis]

 

[latecurtis]

Obviously SLA2 is safer than SLA1

I kind of wish I knew where to get good connectors though for these running and charging cables.I could solder bullet connectors to each terminal and custom make the run and charge cables but it would be expensive and time consuming.

I still have not found the soldering iron, flux or solder and dont have the money to replace them at this time. I do have several bullet extensions but will need 12 plus more for the parallel series and parallel charging cables.

see link below. Now that's a lot of bullet connectors. Way too many. Any suggestions on an easier way which is still safe. Please let me know. Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

Basically I split up the 48V SLA pack and tried running the Diamond Back off of 36V. It will run on 36V@10AH but don't know for how long.

I was going to try it out and make a you tube video to see if it would post now that I have my desktop going The 4 core gateway which I used at the other place when I had a high speed connection. It is up again with a high speed verison fios connection.

The positive wire coming from the controller was not long enough and I had to put the three SLAs on a 5 gallon pail with a lid to see if it would even work. It did but when I went to try to extend the wire for the positive I had no scissors. I have lost like three pair in the last week and forgot at least twice to get another pair at Wall-Mart.

That was the result trying to use a knife to do a scissors job. It totally pissed me off and a threw some things around but did no damage to the apartment thank god and walked to Wall-Mart and spent my last $10 on three pair. The 20" bike was downstairs charging and fully charged when I got back.

The picture shows the clips that go on the battery terminals. They are garbage and slide off whenever I hit a bump. Going back to alligator clips as they may not be the best but work much better than those connectors that slide off the terminals.

Without a better choice in connectors which I dont have I have no choice but to go back to alligator clips. I am not spending $20 or more to solder wires with bullets on the ends like in the illustrations in my two previous posts. I am simply going to run three SLAs at a time if the low voltage cutoff will allow. I also think that the throttle may be easier at 36V I hope.

DA. Since you posted detailed info on that motor kit on the Diamond Back could you please let me know what the low voltage cutoff is so I don't find myself stranded 3 miles from home pedaling with a bum knee. Thanks.



LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Depends on your discharge rate.
Optimal LVC varies with discharge rate

 

[latecurtis]

I am pretty sure I ordered the 48V motor kit though and it is simply capable of running 36V.

Sunder ordered a 36V motor kit for the Schwinn I think but capable of 48V. That is what was stated earlier however the LVC already happened at 36V with the Schwinn when the SLAs were brand new as the battery chemistry on a brand new battery is different than when it is run down to 60 or 50% and recharged. They will hold a voltage better then. Therefore I am wondering if the kit Sunder sent was a 48V kit.

I was actually surprised that the new 20" kit on the Diamondback would work with 36V. That is why I am wondering about the LVC. I know I ordered 48V as there was a choice. 36 or 48. I chose 48 because I was originally going to run those 8.0 LiPo packs in series but later decided to combine them for the 20" bike with the 533W motor at 24V. This gives me 16Ah at 22.2V and also extends the life of both the 8.0 6S packs as there is no LVC on the variable controller with the pot.

I can make two runs about 3 miles to Wall Mart or 5 to 6 miles total traveling and my voltage will average about 3.84V per cell. That is when I balance charge them back to 4.2V. I did that yesterday and when finished voltage was from 4.2V to 3.17V fresh off the charger so I used the balance function for about two hours and all cells read 4.17V.

Even though it is a 20" bike and I mounted the motor with a 2 by 4 and am running 6S LiPo it is very easy to run and charge and may struggle a little on moderate hills this bike is proving to be extremely reliable as a medium range cargo transport. A good 50 miles total and the chain is still spinning.

Also on average more often than not when I take it out I am stopped by someone asking " Is that a motor?" " How did you do that" " Did you build it yourself" " Could you build me one"

My answer is always the same. I tell them that they make a hub motor kit where the motor is built into the wheel. It is much easier to do than this set up. I tell them that I had a lot of time on my hands so unless you have worked with chain drive motors and are mechanically inclined you are better off with a hub motor kit. I then mention e bay and endlesssphere.com.

This happens almost every day as I said. :lol: I am not giving anyone any bad advice. Also I would imagine that I and that 20" build will be responsible for many new members here on ES.

I will be trying out the Diamondback today and making a youtube video today. If it don't post public I may have a smashed up desktop and there could be some holes in the walls here in my beautiful palace. Thanks.

LC. out

 

[DrkAngel]

LVC is nearly universally:
~21V for 24V controller
~31V for 36V controller
~41V for 48V controller

 

[latecurtis]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MfQ2m6qxPGU&feature=youtu.be

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cnZOrw24Hcs&feature=youtu.be

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gqvu0RYrH4g&feature=youtu.be

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xqNA2XbdYXQ&feature=youtu.be

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OZ_xi2opJ7w&feature=youtu.be

 

[DAND214]

First one was open second was locked.
Maybe I was too soon. works now.

Dan

 

[latecurtis]

try it now. Had to hit publish button.

 

[latecurtis]

I brought along the pre hook up cable as when hooking up the controller there is always a good size spark. The controller is turned off of course but there is still a big spark. The pre hook up cable avoids that. Also I am not sure if there was a fuse included. I did not see one with the Schwinn and that brushless controller either.

I may not have hit the publish button on those other videos that would not play last week or so. I will go back and see if I can fix those and repost them. Thanks

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YGVb7mZp97Y&feature=youtu.be

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5a4Niz9JOog

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8FWpsqXJtkI

 

[latecurtis]

Let me know if they play now. It says 21 views so I must have hit the publish button even though I dont see it now.

This fios connection is quick. It takes very little time to publish a video.

 

[DAND214]

Works!
So which bike was it?
93 today, road to the lake and around then home. 23 miles and it only took 5.2ah out of 8.4v 66.6v. So I should have 3ah left in the pack. I will find out tomorrow, gonna run it till the controller hits 57.5v. Boy I like this higher voltage. I get 4miles to the gallon(AH) with a top speed of just over 30mph when I push it. average speed was only 15mph since the speed limit at the lake [s 8mph. Most time I go 11 since 8 is too slow if it's windy. I think I am one of the few that goes that slow, I did pass one guy but was passed by many.

Dan

 

[latecurtis]

So which bike was it?

The post with the three videos was the 20" bike with the 800W 36V Unite motor running at 22.2V and about 500W and 1833 rpm geared for 20mph. The one I used the 2 by 4 to mount the motor. I did those about 10 days ago I think. The second video shows it in Wall-Mart parking lot.

The five videos before it are of the DiamondBack with the 48V 850W motor also running at around 500W or so at 36V. The first video also shows me at a school parking lot towards the end of the video. I had kids wanting to ride it and I said no of course as I don't want them getting hurt.

There was a big fire on Chrysler av. I was talking to them about it at the beginning of the second video or video2. The end of video2 was when the camera almost fell into the street but I caught it.

Video 4 shows how well the DiamondBack climbs the hill out in front of my house. Even at 36V it outperforms the other 20" bike up that hill. The Diamondback is better on take off at 36V than 48V though. Less chance of spinning out or breaking the forks.

I could easily hook up the Schwinn to all six of the SLAs as they would all fit in the rear basket. I could wire them exactly like I did the picture of the Diamondback but three wired the same way on the opposite side and run two wires with clips off each wire going to the controller.

36V@20AH. It would be very heavy though that is the drawback. 5S LiPo would be a much better option for the DiamondBack and 44.4V for the Schwinn. Much better than hauling all those lead ass batteries around. For now I think I will just use three SLAs for short round trips less than 5 miles with the Schwinn and the Diamondback. For trips between five and 10 miles I have the other 20" bike with 16AH of 6S LiPo. Thanks.


LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. A genius? Maybe not as I needed spellcheck to spell it. Did LC learn anything in over two years here?

48V/4 = 12V

3.000rpm/4 = 750rpm

12v = 750rpm

4.17V * 18 = 75.06V

72 - 48 = 24

3,000rpm + 1500rpm = 4,500rpm.

1,000W / 4 = 250W

75V = 1500W+ = 36mph

An 80T sprocket from Kings custom sprockets on a 20" wheel makes 36.5mph with a 7.339 * 11 = 81.4. page 71 sprocket calculator.

At 48V speed is at or close to 24mph@1,000W with the 80T sprocket. It will run at 48V first then upgrade to 75V later.

The 24" bike can also run 36V@20AH if I mount those SLAs to that triangle rack I built but never finished to use. Shades of the Currie when I had three 22AH SLAs mounted forwards in the triangle for excellent weight distribution. 750W or 1HP 2,250rpm geared for 26mph.

The other thing is the 24" bike with the 20" wheel and Unite motor on the back would not be that safe going 30+ mph. I learned that here from you guys. I also ride these things so from the feel of it I can tell what is safe. The DiamondBack has a little play in the steering. Something needs to be tightened maybe. 10mph is good maybe 15 on good smooth roads. I am pretty sure if I hit a pothole like I did with that bike over a year ago something would give now. The other 20" bike seems more stable than the DiamondBack.

The 24" bike I have not rode in awhile but the only issue I remember is the front wheel. Why I stopped riding it. That plus the gear issue. I need new bearings. That is something I can afford like soon. 26mph will be good for awhile I think. Also an 80T sprocket on a 20" wheel is,,,, Well kind of ridiculous

I will take the advice given me and wait until I find a solid 26" mountain bike like a Haro or Cannondale. Then a 48V1500W rear motor for the 75V LiPo should = 40mph I could get a bike with the extra wide tires. I think they are dual suspension and rated at about 300lbs. Disk brakes also recommended for any bike 30mph and over. There may be hope for me yet. Thanks.



maybe not :x I just checked to see what size sprocket would work for the 500W 24V motor at 36V and 750W and 3,750rpm for 36mph to = the gearing on the rear motor at 48V. The answer was an 80T spoke kit.

The 1,000W motor is overgeared at 35mph but with both motors close to the same gearing there would be 1,750W for 36mph. That is like perfect gearing. two controllers one throttle hopefully. six SLAs and two 10.0 LiPo packs? Stay tuned for another episode of As the Hub ....... Thanks.

LC. out.

Kind of drunk.

Hey DA. Check this out. You like graphs. Someone created one to figure out what size antimatter bomb would blow up the solar system. :lol:

http://www.madsci.org/posts/archives/2001-11/1004909251.As.r.html

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. Tested proven.


Today is the longest and hardest I have rode the 20" bike with the 533W chain drive motor. I was amazed at the performance.

It made it from downtown city hall all the way up state street hill. State street hill is not the steepest hill in Schenectady but surely one of the longest if not the longest.

The grade is moderate but goes for a half a mile almost I think. The bike was between 5 and ten mph probably closer to ten. I returned home and then drove the bike for a second trip probably 7 miles total and still got a 3.74 reading across the screen on the 16.0 pack.(two 8.0 packs combined). Recharging now.

The 20" cargo bike is a 533W beast which hauls up to 50lbs of cargo and goes up moderate hills and good for about 10 miles and the motor is mounted with a 2 by 4. Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. Mid Summer e bike project.

I had to return downtown today to drop off paperwork for food stamps finishing up what I started yesterday. Again the 20" bike performed flawlessly climbing State street hill and getting me home. Voltage was at 3.84V per cell and is currently on the charger downstairs charging back to 4.2V.

I was not sure when DSS closed so took a chance and rode it almost all the way down Crane st. hill. The steepest hill in town I think. there was quite a lot of squeaking but the brakes passed the test and slowed the bike down and stopped it close to the bottom.

I have the funds to rebuild the 24" Huffy. I am not ordering the 80T spoke kit but leaving the 56T spoke kit on the 20" back wheel and will be mounting the six SLAs on the triangle rack for 36V@20Ah 750W 2250 rpm and 26 mph respectively. It will be geared about two mph faster than the Currie was with the same motor but the 11T #25 motor and 80T wheel sprocket. The Currie had no problem climbing up State street hill either.

The 24" Huffy currently has the 48V controller. That controller is one that DA recommended I think.I could use the variable controller I got with the built in pot however even though a pot is good for slow sidewalk speeds I actually prefer a thumb throttle over a pot. Better yet I like both and did in fact have both hooked up before with a three wire throttle splitting it off running two wires from a kill switch one to the throttle and one to a pot. The other two wires splitting off into two wires going to the thumb throttle and the pot. I could set the pot to slow speed and engage the throttle to speed up when I wanted to.

I may hook it up that way again but first must order a 36V controller the same make as the 48V one on there now. The next step is finding the soldering iron and solder and soldering the alligator clips to the wires instead of electrical tape. That last run with the Diamondback was a temporary set up as I have had the wire separate from the clips before more than once. They are only good for a few times before they fail. The last step for this build is getting new bearings in the 24" wheel. I may also install rear brakes by installing metal brackets. I think U brakes should work well. This bike will be heavy with six SLAs so it will be better with both front and rear brakes.

Since it is a 24" frame with a 24" tire on the front and 20" on the back with a big fat seat from wall-Mart it will sit higher up than my 20" bikes and be more comfortable to ride. It will be my daily commuter as I can bring the 20" bike upstairs and lock it up down on the front porch.

The 36V 20Ah SLA pack can also run the Schwinn however I will be taking the Schwinn out with Dan's LiPo packs soon to find out what state they are in also. Thanks.

LC. out.

I just ordered two 36V brushed 800W controllers. One is from China and may not get here until the end of August $14 free shipping. The second is being shipped from the US and should be here by the end of the month. I figured as cheap as they are two is better than one anyway so if one burns out like the one I had before I will have a back up.

I thought about it awhile walking to the store and figured I may as well take a chance and order a second 10.0 pack to go with the one I already have but never charged or ran. Unlike the other 8.0 LiPos I am running this one came in like that and has sat for at least two months and voltage has not dropped at all.

I will now be able to run the Schwinn as a cargo bike as A LiPo pouch nice and lightweight can go on the back of the rear basket enabling me to fill the basket with cargo if I wish. The Schwinn is my 44.4V ride officially now. The 24" bike will be my 36V ride and I am building a third 20" 22.2 or 24V bike with the 500W 24V motor, the 80T #25 sprocket that bolts on the freewheel and that 9T #25 sprocket from electric scooter parts. I have all the parts and gearing will be for 16 mph. Yes I will be mounting the motor with a 2 by 4 or other pieces of wood. :lol: Thanks. LC. out.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Taotuo-10000mah-22-2V-30C-6S-Li-po-Battery-For-RC-Model-Helicopter-Airplane-Car-/371307837145?hash=item5673abf6d9:g:6hMAAOSwBLlVEi96

 

[DrkAngel]

Yeah, 5A alligator clips will get very hot running a 40A controller-motor!
Certainly hot enough to turn electrical tape into a gooie slippery mess ...
and possibly hot enough to detension the springs in the alligator clips.

 

[DrkAngel]

Bearings from any spare front wheel are likely to fit the 24".
Dissemble, clean, then inspect the bearing races before regreasing and reassembly.

 

[latecurtis]

Yea but I never changed bearings. I may change the front forks If I get wide enough front forks that are heavy duty I may have a plan. I really hate #25 chain as it is too thin and #410 regular bike chain works ok but the spoke sprockets are very large and heavy.

https://electricscooterparts.com/sprockets8mmchain.html

Note the cheap price on the 8mm dual D bore 10T motor sprocket and on the bottom the 72T 8mm sprocket which could bolt to the freewheel on a 24" rear wheel mounted on the front of the 24" huffy.

According to sprocket calculator it would be geared for 37 mph at 750W and 3,750 rpm with a 24" wheel. The back Unite motor is geared for 35+ mph with the 48V motor at 3,000 rpm and 1,000W. 1,750W total definitely = about 36 mph easily. If I can run a single thumb throttle to a 36V and 48V controller then it should work. I have 20AH of 36V SLAs and when I get the second 6S 10.0 Ah pack I will be good for 44.4V for the rear motor. Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DAND214]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. Mid Summer e bike project.

I had to return downtown today to drop off paperwork for food stamps finishing up what I started yesterday. Again the 20" bike performed flawlessly climbing State street hill and getting me home. Voltage was at 3.84V per cell and is currently on the charger downstairs charging back to 4.2V.

I was not sure when DSS closed so took a chance and rode it almost all the way down Crane st. hill. The steepest hill in town I think. there was quite a lot of squeaking but the brakes passed the test and slowed the bike down and stopped it close to the bottom.

I have the funds to rebuild the 24" Huffy. I am not ordering the 80T spoke kit but leaving the 56T spoke kit on the 20" back wheel and will be mounting the six SLAs on the triangle rack for 36V@20Ah 750W 2250 rpm and 26 mph respectively. It will be geared about two mph faster than the Currie was with the same motor but the 11T #25 motor and 80T wheel sprocket. The Currie had no problem climbing up State street hill either.

The 24" Huffy currently has the 48V controller. That controller is one that DA recommended I think.I could use the variable controller I got with the built in pot however even though a pot is good for slow sidewalk speeds I actually prefer a thumb throttle over a pot. Better yet I like both and did in fact have both hooked up before with a three wire throttle splitting it off running two wires from a kill switch one to the throttle and one to a pot. The other two wires splitting off into two wires going to the thumb throttle and the pot. I could set the pot to slow speed and engage the throttle to speed up when I wanted to.

I may hook it up that way again but first must order a 36V controller the same make as the 48V one on there now. The next step is finding the soldering iron and solder and soldering the alligator clips to the wires instead of electrical tape. That last run with the Diamondback was a temporary set up as I have had the wire separate from the clips before more than once. They are only good for a few times before they fail. The last step for this build is getting new bearings in the 24" wheel. I may also install rear brakes by installing metal brackets. I think U brakes should work well. This bike will be heavy with six SLAs so it will be better with both front and rear brakes.

Since it is a 24" frame with a 24" tire on the front and 20" on the back with a big fat seat from wall-Mart it will sit higher up than my 20" bikes and be more comfortable to ride. It will be my daily commuter as I can bring the 20" bike upstairs and lock it up down on the front porch.

The 36V 20Ah SLA pack can also run the Schwinn however I will be taking the Schwinn out with Dan's LiPo packs soon to find out what state they are in also. Thanks.

LC. out.

I just ordered two 36V brushed 800W controllers. One is from China and may not get here until the end of August $14 free shipping. The second is being shipped from the US and should be here by the end of the month. I figured as cheap as they are two is better than one anyway so if one burns out like the one I had before I will have a back up.

I thought about it awhile walking to the store and figured I may as well take a chance and order a second 10.0 pack to go with the one I already have but never charged or ran. Unlike the other 8.0 LiPos I am running this one came in like that and has sat for at least two months and voltage has not dropped at all.

I will now be able to run the Schwinn as a cargo bike as A LiPo pouch nice and lightweight can go on the back of the rear basket enabling me to fill the basket with cargo if I wish. The Schwinn is my 44.4V ride officially now. The 24" bike will be my 36V ride and I am building a third 20" 22.2 or 24V bike with the 500W 24V motor, the 80T #25 sprocket that bolts on the freewheel and that 9T #25 sprocket from electric scooter parts. I have all the parts and gearing will be for 16 mph. Yes I will be mounting the motor with a 2 by 4 or other pieces of wood. :lol: Thanks. LC. out.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Taotuo-10000mah-22-2V-30C-6S-Li-po-Battery-For-RC-Model-Helicopter-Airplane-Car-/371307837145?hash=item5673abf6d9:g:6hMAAOSwBLlVEi96

So this might be old hat by now. Why do you insist on doing the same thing. Brushed motor, OVER GEARED and not pedaling.
Save your money and do it right instead of doing over and over again. Yes, you do have a couple running chain drive bikes. Can you pedal them if the battery dies or to help them up a hill? I know DA has brushed setups but he has them geared correctly and the correct controller/battery for the correct motor.

Long time ago you were told the best to do was get a small geared HUB MOTOR. You would be amazed what they will do. I just finished a test run with a big geared motor on a heavy bike. 32.5 miles on ONLY 8.5Ah. Cut off was 57.5 volts. Top speed 30 average was 14mph. When I get a chance will show what my worn out OLD LiPos look. Look just like the ones I sent you. Only charged to 4.15v per cell, would of had another 5 miles with a full charge.

Save your money and get a 26" and a small geared hub motor!

As for the 24" with a small 20" rear, why? No rear drakes, just front? Not a good idea.

Dan

 

[latecurtis]

The Currie would be a good candidate for one of those geared motors as it came with a gear reduction motor. I don't have a motor for it yet either and the wheels are perfectly straight.

However according to sprocket calculator the 900W Monster Scooter kit would work for 28 mph with the Currie with the 8mm 10T motor and 72T sprocket which bolts to the freewheel the Currie is already set up for. That is how it was running for two years but with a #25 11T motor and 80T freewheel bolt sprocket. The Monster Scooter kit would be the final upgrade for it.

or not!!

How about later on when I get the money for a 1,500W rear hub kit for a 26" bike and one more 6S 10.0 LiPo pack and a 72V brushless controller I put it on the back of the Schwinn and take the hub motor off the front of the Schwinn and put it on the front of the Currie with the Monster scooter motor on the back. At 44.4V that hub motor is good for about 27 mph so both motors would be geared almost equal but I would need two throttles as one motor is brushed and the other brushless. It should be an animal up hills though.

As a matter of fact those are my exact plans. I may play around with the 24" bike when I get the 36V controllers and also build a second 20" bike to break in my 10.0 packs individually but I still have my 48V controller for the 24" Huffy and I wont need to uninstall it. I can unhook the wires going to it and hook them to the 36V controller. Then when I get the 8mm chain and sprockets just hook up the 500W motor I already have for 750W@36V. and the 48V controller back up how it is now but to two 10.0 6S LiPo packs.

The Currie may need different front forks for the hub motor on the Schwinn when the time comes but it could be awhile before I get the 900W monster scooter kit and a 40+ mph rear hub kit for the Schwinn but those are my plans.Thanks.

So this might be old hat by now. Why do you insist on doing the same thing. Brushed motor, OVER GEARED and not pedaling.

As for the 24" with a small 20" rear, why? No rear drakes, just front? Not a good idea.

There will be U brakes on the back. I got a plan for that.

No Not quite. I already stated I can climb long moderate hills at 533W geared for 20 mph. With 16 mph gearing at 500W I will be able to climb even better. I am going to use the 500W 24V motor for another 20" build like I said and instead of putting the 500W motor on the front of the 24" bike I will order a 36V 800W motor for the front. I will be able to use a #415 60T spoke kit on the 24" wheel and 11T #410 motor sprocket for 36.5 mph gearing at 1,800W total.

I am still looking for that soldering iron. That is the #25 9T motor sprocket for 16 mph gearing on the next 20" build.Thanks.

LC. out.

I think I found the soldering iron! 3:44 am 6/19/16

 

[latecurtis]

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