new eZip motor

[latecurtis]

The soldering iron and solder and flux all were at the bottom of that bin. All that stuff was on top of it.

I am setting up a charging and soldering area on the front porch which is properly ventilated perfect for it. I will have 36V@20Ah SLA soon. lots of alligator clips to solder.

That bike is the next build. I made the forks wider with a 2 by 4 for a back rim. Need to find a freewheel and can bolt on the 80T if I find the bolts I ordered and the 9T #25 motor sprocket will be good for 16 mph gearing to break in my 10.0 6S packs mounted in a coffee can on the front. I wont have to drag that extension cord downstairs as the 20" bike now the Lipos in the cash box are not easily detachable. With a coffee can I can simply bring them upstairs to charge in the window.

By moving the Schwinn out into the front hallway I was able to set up my charging/soldering station. Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

The sprocket on the front of the 20" bike is shot. It was not lined up correctly and it not only wore down but bent. I noticed the chain was kind of loose and when attempting to tighten it things went from bad to worse. However it is not the end of the world.

Monster scooter parts has the solution with 8mm chain and 10 tooth 10mm dual d 10mm motor sprockets to fit 8mm chain. Also the 63T sprocket that bolts to the freewheel for 8 mm chain.

The bike will not only run better at 24V but I will be able to run the Unite 800W 36V motor at 36V also with perfect gearing.

36V - 2,750 rpm
20" wheel
25 mph
ratio - 6.548

24V - 1817 rpm
20" wheel
16 mph
ratio - 6.760

I could refigure it but at 36V it will be closer to 26 mph with the 63T 8 mm sprocket and closer to 17 mph at 24V but that is still great gearing. With the variable controller with the pot I can run 6S LiPo or 36V SLA.

Also I could solve the gearing issue with the 24" Huffy and get rear brakes also if I went with 8 mm chain and sprockets.

3,000 rpm
24.5" wheel
30 mph
ratio - 7.292. Perfect for the 72T bolt on the freewheel sprocket and 10T motor sprocket that fits perfect on the motor.

That will leave me with two 20" wheels. One with a 56T spoke kit and one with a 60T spoke kit. Two more 20" builds maybe.?

gearing for a 1,000W 48V unite motor with a 60T spoke and 11T motor sprocket is 32.5 mph. slightly overgeared but doable.

At 36V 750W and 2,250 rpm gearing for the 56T spoke kit is almost exactly 26 mph. Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. gearing 101. Best choice for 30 mph gearing.


36V 800W 2750 rpm motor.
at 48V, 1200W and 3666 rpm.
wheel 20"
speed = 30 mph.
gear ratio = 7.27 * 11 = the 80T wheel sprocket.

That is based on #25 chain and sprockets I currently own not something I need to order.

It sounds good but I question #25 chain almost as much as my mechanics skills. Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

That was in my mail box today. Not sure what I am putting it on now.

What I am sure about is bringing the 20" bike upstairs into the hall way with the Diamond Back and bringing the Schwinn downstairs.

That is the cash box with the two 8.0 packs combined for 22.2V@16Ah.

Guess what I cant find? The key of course. I was thinking about separating them for 44.4V with the Schwinn. Without a key that will be difficult.

I could use 6 SLAs for 20Ah but then the rear basket would be full and too heavy for cargo. I need this bike for cargo as my food stamps are in.

Also to be honest I am kind of sick of riding 20" kid bikes when I own 26" mountain bikes. However if I can make the 24V 500W motor work on the 20" bike with the 80T #25 sprocket and 9T motor sprocket for 16 mph gearing It will be up and running again.

the first thing I will order next month will be 8 mm chain and sprockets for some real performance. Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. First time LiPo Dan.

This is the first time charging LiPo with the Mega charger Dan sent. I have parallel charged SLAs hundreds of times with it in the hallway at the old place but first time using it here and first time charging in my new e battery work area.

I charged these old packs about 6 weeks ago so I only need to top them off before I run them. We will see what condition they are in as I will be taking my camera for a video. I already know their condition. three miles total is about their max but I shall attempt to prove it.

The thing is I am eight blocks closer to Wall-Mart and Hannaford supermarkets so I should get a few good runs out of them anyways.

My trip will be .9 miles from here to Mcdonalds and 1.3 to Stewart's on Chrysler which is .3 miles from here. So total trip will be 2.5 miles with the old LiPo packs today. We shall see how they do.

The 9T #25 motor sprock wont fit on the motor. It has been so long ago I am not even attempting to send it back. The nut however fits on any Unite motor and is not something I can buy at Lowes I don't believe.

The good news is I just put a 11T on the 36V motor and checked gearing with the 80 tooth #25 sprocket and gearing is 15 mph at 1833 rpm 533W and 24V.
It will fly us hills and will pit it against one of those gear reduction motors if I can get it to work. The problem now is mechanical skills in motor mounting.

No video today sorry. Tire on the front of the Schwinn is very low on air and my tire pump is no where to be found and I got a few minutes to make it to the bank. sorry.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

No allen keys. no vice grips no tire pump and a whole pack of alligator clips are missing and so are your posts!

I feel like I lost a whole room full of friends!

I just realized nobody is posting. I am removing the tape from the clips to solder the connections and use that shrink wrap stuff.

I got an important place to be downtown tomorrow afternoon. I want to take the Schwinn but need the tire pumped up. Thanks for posting.

Peace out.

 

[latecurtis]

 

[latecurtis]

I want to thank you guys for sticking with me and insisting that I learn how to solder. No doubt with that soldering job shrink wrap and a little electrical tape the connections are much stronger than they were before.

I will never know why some pics post and others post a link. It is baffling to say the least.

Although not the perfect conductor which I will never understand as they are made for electrical connections, the picture showing the two different ways to connect the clips shows that there is much greater contact with the clip and almost zero chance of a short when making the series connection.

That was one clip. I have 7 more to make for any chance of 36V@20AH which is what I will need to get any long term use out of these SLAs. They are still fairly new.

that gearing for 15 mph at 22.2V will also propel the bike about 26 mph at 36V so it is definitely what I plan on doing. I know however it will not be an easy task.

the good news is I don't have to worry about bothering the neighbors downstairs and even have a whole back yard to work on bikes. I will be taking my time and getting new nuts and bolts. If I succeed in this the 20" bike will be superior to those cheap geared 350W motor kits. At 24V I will pass them up hills with 533W and 15 mph gearing. At 36V and 800W that 350w geared motor don't stand a chance. If I cant get the job done with #25 chain I will be ordering 8 mm chain and sprockets next month. Either way the race is on vs that 350W geared motor kit. Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

I am improving my soldering skills. Notice the heavy even bead now.

 

[latecurtis]

5A alligator clips don't work well with 40A controller

The point is at least now I am smart enough to get the full 5 amps because of the best possible connection. Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

I will never know why some pics post and others post a link. It is baffling to say the least.

800 pixel limitation for attachment auto posting!.

 

[DrkAngel]

5A alligator clips don't work well with 40A controller

The point is at least now I am smart enough to get the full 5 amps because of the best possible connection. Thanks.

LC. out.

"Small steps Sparks ... small steps."

5 Amp throughput Alligator clips means high resistance-poor performance - from 40A controller-motor.

5A chrome plated steel clips will have high resistance - high temperature = poor throughput.
Check used alligator clips for high temperature discoloration ... and possible metal loss due to arcing.

≤ 16ga(?) wire is next most severe restriction.
≥ 12ga copper wire recommended for even brief 40A capability!

 

[DAND214]

See LC we are still here.

Yes, that is much better than your first and way, way better than tape.


Dan

 

[DrkAngel]

We can race without meeting if you like. When I am done with my 800W Unite motor install I will get a speedo wireless and you do the same. we can also use a stopwatch and camera to record the race. It wont be until I reinstall my motor.

thanks. LC.

I am not interested in racing, as I have noted ... many a time.
I strive for "performance"!
"Performance" as in efficiency and matching build to purpose.

For example:
350w mid-drive through 34-11T rear sprockets, geared for 20mph, should outperform 1000w motor, geared for 37mph (bogs out at ~26mph?), in every way I would use it.
Hill climbing, 0 to 20 speed with much better efficiency = much smaller cheaper batteries or much further range and motor-battery life.

Just ran my homemade battery (hundreds of charges and thousands of miles!) 30 miles @ ~18mph.
2+ years ~7500 miles on bike-motor (450w gear-reduction motor run at 485w and briefly at 625w) with no drivetrain problems except worn chains and sprockets. Normal wear and tear - "consumable" components.

 

[latecurtis]

Next step is better connectors, What type can Curtis solder on now to get a better connection to the terminal? Do they make nickel-plated Copper alligator clips?

I really like that question. I was wondering the same thing. I looked online but did not see them. I will look again.

Until then I will need to do two more of those series clips for three more SLAs for 36V@20AH.

Also I will be building charging cables to charge six SLAs in parallel. Charging does not require high amps so I wont have to do that part over at least.

If I can get good copper or gold plated 20 amp clips I will redo all the series connection clips and the ones from the controller.

Oh and most important. Thanks for posting. I got a ride downtown as I was not sure the Diamondback would make it back with three of the SLAs as I have not been able to charge them.

I will get a bus home and hopefully find the tire pump and take the Schwinn out with Dans old LiPo packs to get more clips. I really need to change the patched up tube in the front of the Schwinn but that involves reinstalling the hub motor and I wanted to wait until I got new torque arms. Thanks again.

LC. out.

ps. The electric city bike club will be open in less than an hour. I may have to check that out for a good 24" front tire.

 

[Sunder]

Next step is better connectors, What type can Curtis solder on now to get a better connection to the terminal? Do they make nickel-plated Copper alligator clips?

Why not solder 12AWG directly to the terminal, with Anderson PP45s on the other end, or XT60/XT90?

If I was stuck with SLA, that's what I'd be doing, with heat shrink over the terminal end to protect it.

 

[latecurtis]

Thanks Sunder and you are right in soldering 10 or 12 gauge wire to the terminals which I was going to do but with 4mm bullet plugs however I did not go thru with it as I have no intention of ever ordering ant more SLAs and just wanted to run the six I got until they are shot and then order 5S LiPo packs to handle any of my 36V needs.

36V seems to be a good compromise on speed and power up hills and also gearing. At 48V the Unite motors are overgeared with regular 56 or 60T spoke kits.

Also 36V is much closer to the 700 or 750W federal limit. Not sure which that is. Good for up hills and 22 to 26 mph depending on what size wheel sprocket is used.

I was also thinking that the Schwinn with the weight of the hub motor on the front would be the best candidate for six SLAs in the rear basket. It would make it useless for cargo but good for about 8 or 10 miles of range.

I was going to use the six SLAs for the 24" bike but with the heavy Unite motor and spoke kit on the back it would make the front unstable with all the weight in the back.

putting them in a basket bolted to the handlebars would make the front difficult to steer also making the front end unsafe so the Schwinn is the only bike that makes sense for six SLAs.

Since I don't have a cargo bike now it actually makes a lot of sense to run the 24" bike at 22.2V and 500W at 1,500 rpm. The gearing would then be 17.5 mph at 500W which should be about the same or slightly better up hills than the 20" bike was at 20 mph and 533W.

I was thinking about the Unite motor being overgeared at 1,000W also with the 56T sprocket and 48V.
13.3V * 4 = 53.2V when running SLAs when fully charged. when run down to about half way they = 12.3V * 4 = 49.2V
4.17V * 12 = 50.4V full. At about half way discharged 3.8V * 12 = 45.6V.

I think that with the 60T instead of the 56T spoke kit and running 44.4V LiPo the gearing should be much better than it was. It will also pull even harder up hills with cargo at 500W and 1,500 rpm as gearing would be for 16 mph. thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

Advanced auto had one package of six clips left but two packs of two tester with factory wires two in a pack two red and two black per pack. this cable is the black plus 2 soldered wires. I will repeat for six SLA parallel charge.

I will need two clips and wires from each wire coming from the controller now for 36V@20Ah.

Charging today. 6/24

Schwinn should be up and running by tomorrow. Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

View attachment 3

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. Proper SLA battery care.

The pictures show the parallel cables are finished and I charged three at a time with the mega charger at 3A. 1 amp for each 10Ah SLA.

That is because three of them were at a higher voltage that the other three. From now on they will all be charged together.

After that I hooked all six together in parallel and hooked up the proper 3 stage 12V SLA charger.

After a few hours I can also hook up the desulfator the same way then tomorrow put it back on the three stage before running them.

I am pretty sure when I ran the 24" bike with the 48V 1,000W motor it was with four of the SLAs. 53V to 49V full to about half discharged.

12S LiPo would be 50V to 45V full to half discharged.

It don't seem like much of a difference but there was and still is a 56T spoke kit on it.

The 20" bike I just took the 36V motor off has the 60T spoke kit. If I put that on the back of the 24" bike plus run 12S LiPo there should be a noticeable difference in the gearing.

The second 6S 10.0 LiPo pack I ordered is on the way here. Once I get it the 24" bike should be ready for 30 mph. Thanks.



LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. 40 mph.

I have decided on attempting to install the 24V 500W unite motor back on the 20" black cargo bike with the 80T #25 chain and sprocket #25 11T motor sprocket and it will be geared for 20 mph or basically back to the way it was.

As for the 36V 800W motor I just took off. BIG PLANS.

The 48V 1,000W motor on the rear of the 24" Huffy will go on the front with the 56T spoke kit currently on the back 20" wheel.

rpm = 3,000
wheel = 24.5
speed = 42.5 mph
ratio = 5.147 * 11 = 56

The 36V 800W motor on the back at 48V will pump out 1,200W with the 60T spoke kit on the 20" wheel.

rpm = 3,666
wheel = 20'
speed = 40 mph
ratio = 5.45 * 11 = 59.95

I will be ordering a second 48V controller and using both controllers hooked to a single thumb throttle and running off of the two 10.0 6S packs.
Total watts = 2,200. estimated top speed = 41 mph. thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DAND214]

I sure hope you don't throw a chain at 40 or even 30mph.
If not a chain a blow out, either a bad situation to be in.

So are we saying 24" on one end and 20: on the other/ Brakes on one end and none on the other.
Why don't you change you name here to, Evil Canbevil.
I don't think Evel Knievel was as stubborn as you are

Dan

 

[latecurtis]

Actually the 40 mph bike is a long summer project but the rack on the back of the bike will enable me to install heavy duty flat steel brackets with a center hole drilled where I can install a custom U brake system. Also the front brakes will be replaced with brand new brakes of the highest quality possible.

As of right now I am setting up the Schwinn for 36V@20AH

Also the DiamondBack will get your old LiPo packs in the cash box bolted to the back rack after I remove the wood box.

Both of my hub kits I will be running regularly now awhile I work on installing the 24V 500W motor on the front of the 20" bike I took the 36V motor off of.

I found the bolts I ordered from electric scooter parts and have a 20" rear wheel perfectly straight to put a freewheel on which I also have.

I also found wood to build another contraption for mounting the 500W motor to the handlebars. the bike is on the back porch where my skill saw and drills are.

I pumped up the front tire on the Schwinn and am about to take it down and lock it up on the porch and bring the DiamondBack up in the front hall so I can install the old SLAs in the cash box. I will be running my hub motors now awhile I work on my chain driven e bikes. I will even shoot a video of the Schwinn and the DiamondBack soon also. Thanks for posting.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Damn!
Why don't you buy the 36V 1.8A SLA charger for less than $12 - delivered?

Probably cost a fraction of what you're spending on alligator clips for your slow complex charging method.