new eZip motor

[Sunder]

Probably cost a fraction of what you're spending on alligator clips for your slow complex charging method.

That question applies for the whole project. Why doesn't he buy a 3kw hub motor and brushless controller?

Probably cost a fraction of what he's spending on odds and ends for his slow inefficient propulsion method.

This thread isn't about getting a good outcome. It's about LC doing things his way, and seeing how much good advice he can ignore getting there.

 

[DAND214]

Probably cost a fraction of what you're spending on alligator clips for your slow complex charging method.

That question applies for the whole project. Why doesn't he buy a 3kw hub motor and brushless controller?

Probably cost a fraction of what he's spending on odds and ends for his slow inefficient propulsion method.

This thread isn't about getting a good outcome. It's about LC doing things his way, and seeing how much good advice he can ignore getting there.

Aw, come on Sunders. I know you love this thread or you would of passed a long time ago.

You know, there are members out there that DO listen to YOU. tronics is one of them. I have listened 99% of what I have read hear and I have read a lot. Asked a lot less than I have given too. I have learned more by reading this than asking. I don't think I will ever stop asking if I can't find the answer.

So LC, how about that name change :lol: :lol: :lol:
Also LC you have mentioned a wireless speedo. Don't waste your money on one, just get a couple cheap wired ones. Even wireless you will need to move the transmitter and magnet every time you change bikes, so a little wire to move is the only difference in them.

Dan

 

[Sunder]

Not saying I don't love this thread, or that I'm tired of it. I just know that 90% of what I suggest to LC is going to get ignored.

I also know other people like Tronics will take my advice - and as he posted a couple hours ago, I know he's got a fantastic electric scooter that's totally road legal, and presumably better than manufacturer reliable, for $500.

All I was saying with LC, is that we're not the coach in this game giving advice and encouragement that will be respected and taken on board. We're the spectators in the grand stand, yelling out encouragement and the odd bit of advice, and maybe a tiny bit will stick

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. perfect timing Sunder.

Since my last post I installed the 44.4V cash box on the back of the Schwinn and at 3AM here I ran out of beer as my friend downstairs borrowed a couple earlier.

Sunder that motor you sent is an animal. I have not run either for several months as where I lived before you know the deal. got kicked out due to damage from bikes. here I lock them on the front porch downstairs.

I called the 24 hour store down on Broadway and was told I can buy beer. Since it is early sunday morning some stores obey some state laws and some don't.
It has pedal capability but very low like super easy to pedal so like first or second in 18 or 21 speeds. Obviously about a block and a half away I had to pedal vigorously and let off the throttle to make it look good as two police cars were sitting there one of them standing by someones house responding to a call.

After that I was cruising 20+ mph with about 1/2 throttle or less.

Crane st hill is like the top 5 worst steepest hills here in Schenectady and the brakes still work VERY GOOD on this bike as I used them to make it down safely with no problem. However what really impressed me was the power going up that hill. I took DAs advice and since traffic was at a minimum attacked the hill about 25 mph and it slowed down about a half a block and I pedaled as fast as I could in the shitty gear but the hub motor did at least 80% of the work making it up that hill if not more. that hub motor is a real beast Sunder.

Also there is still life in those old LiPos and I definitely enjoyed the ride with a real bike vs a 20" kids bike. Those chain drive bikes are simply projects. I like to experiment. Yes I will attempt to hook up two motors to the 24" bike but I told the ol lady tonight I am not selling the Schwinn with the hub motor to her son John for $500. That bike is perfect as a Clear Creek Schwinn is a classic bike not some cheap kids bike as DA would say and I got double locks on it down on the front porch and can hardly wait to ride it again. Thanks Sunder.

Also DA is there some kind of way to measure the steepness of a hill? If so When I get the 10.0 packs and hook them to the Diamondback I will post a video climbing that hill. I do listen and you were right when stating it is my best hill climber. I already posted a video of it. Guessing I would say 22% to 30% grade or angle. There are hills steeper like 40% maybe but it is a long hill about 6 or 7 blocks. Definitely a bad ass hill. Any e bike that can climb it easily will fly on the flat. The Schwinn is my fastest bike.

Also LC you have mentioned a wireless speedo. Don't waste your money on one, just get a couple cheap wired ones. Even wireless you will need to move the transmitter and magnet every time you change bikes, so a little wire to move is the only difference in them.

I will be the speedo. We shall see when I actually get one how close I am guessing. We shall start with the Schwinn at 27 mph.

Of all my builds.

Schwinn = 27 mph.
Currie stock motor at 36V and 675W = 26 mph.
Currie = 24 mph at 2250 rpm and 750W
20" bike at 36V and 750W = 25 mph
20" bike at 24V and 533W = 20 mph
24" bike overgeared at 48V 1,000W = 25 mph ? maybe 26 mph.
DiamondBack with hub @ 48V = 22 mph but quicker than all bikes above.

Dual 280W 24V razor motors in series at 36V = 12 mph and if you push 15 the chain poped off because the rim was bent. :lol: Thanks.


LC. out.

 

[Sunder]

Sunder that motor you sent is an animal.

Glad you appreciate it.

Also DA is there some kind of way to measure the steepness of a hill?

You can plot a line on Google earth. It's pretty easy once you know how, but without looking up the instructions it's a bastard to find the feature. It's been a couple years since I've done it. Give it a go first. If you can't figure it out and can't find any articles on how to do it in Google, I'll try to figure it out again.

 

[Sunder]

Oh, please note I said Google EARTH, not google MAPS.

It's the one you need to download to get it to work. There's no web version.

 

[DrkAngel]

Slopes (Degrees) vs. gradients vs. % grades - Chart

 

[latecurtis]

https://www.google.com/maps/place/Crane+St,+Schenectady,+NY/@42.804119,-73.9491769,3a,75y,221.01h,78.89t/data=!3m7!1e1!3m5!1sNWo7RhkznzY11cv_h85UJA!2e0!6s%2F%2Fgeo2.ggpht.com%2Fcbk%3Fpanoid%3DNWo7RhkznzY11cv_h85UJA%26output%3Dthumbnail%26cb_client%3Dmaps_sv.tactile.gps%26thumb%3D2%26w%3D203%26h%3D100%26yaw%3D103.81271%26pitch%3D0!7i3328!8i1664!4m5!3m4!1s0x89de71f040a6d62f:0x658cd886fc531dbf!8m2!3d42.7954208!4d-73.9457957

Here is a link and if you turn it around facing down that is where I started on the bottom attacking the hill. Now I will see if I can get a top view.



https://www.google.com/maps/@42.8011538,-73.9486382,3a,75y,148.53h,74.59t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1st5lbbsisPEbczkXwH_0_Nw!2e0!7i3328!8i1664

That is on old image as rite aide has been gone for many years as that is the parking lot where i did a lot of videos including jumping over the bus. At the rite aide sigh it levels off. going to get the bottom of the hill at a different angle now.

https://www.google.com/maps/@42.8048928,-73.9485299,3a,75y,118.56h,80.91t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1sFa7Iev48gL_P1E6J0jgA1Q!2e0!7i13312!8i6656!6m1!1e1

This shows the 24 hour store I bought beer at but there was no traffic so I had time to build speed to attack the hill. Since I know DA likes gear reduction motors and I as well was found of the stock Currie motor I will show the other hill where I burned out the Currie motor at 675W. next.

https://www.google.com/maps/@42.8021413,-73.9559593,3a,75y,255.69h,73.28t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1siTB_fCSf0kcV8_N3FjUMzA!2e0!7i3328!8i1664!6m1!1e1

that is the bottom of it and that white building is a bike shop where i will be getting the correct freewheel to mount the 80T sprocket or the 8mm sprocket next month for the 20" bike.

https://www.google.com/maps/@42.800982,-73.9546653,3a,75y,228.01h,75.23t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1s1hiI-j-j6fSEYnTwEZLhtA!2e0!7i3328!8i1664!6m1!1e1


here is third av and it was almost two blocks on third when it started slowing down and making a funny noise when the motor burned out. I understand why DA likes gear reduction motors as they are strong and it was amazing the amount of abuse they can handle before failing. I had a shopping cart bungeed to the back of the Currie and was hauling around about 80 pounds of metal on the flat for about a month before that. About three and a half years ago now.

https://www.google.com/maps/@42.8000047,-73.9538114,3a,75y,83.91h,70.18t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1sqNS7x4dy3pi98_QNDvPpKQ!2e0!7i3328!8i1664!6m1!1e1


This next hill is the steepest or at least in the top 5 steepest hills in Schenectady. I have never attempted it with an e bike. The Diamondback at 44.4V when I get the second 6S pack will be my first attempt at it. It is not a long hill like the others but is at least 30% I would imagine.

https://www.google.com/maps/@42.8081999,-73.9416816,3a,75y,251.71h,66.46t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1s0fgbPNGtJLghGqVaMAMW6A!2e0!7i13312!8i6656

Basically as they say proof is in the pudding so if I were to ever build a chain driven bike geared to make it up that hill I would expect some respect for the build because that hill is a real bear. Now for the hills that I go up about every time I ride an e bike and you shall see the difference.


https://www.google.com/maps/@42.7921687,-73.9444269,3a,75y,62.52h,65.05t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1s89yTveA4SaWdHh9WCXZ4Vw!2e0!7i3328!8i1664

That is the hill I go up every time I go to Wall Mart unless I come back Chrysler AV. then I only have to go up a little hill. Hannaford plaza and Wall - Mart is in the same place and I shot a couple videos there and back when I had the Currie at 24V and a full load about 50 lbs of groceries I had to go the Chrysler av. route to avoid that hill but the 20" bike at 533W made it up that hill with no problem but going about 18 mph going into it. The Diamondback can do that hill from a dead stop at the bottom.

https://www.google.com/maps/@42.8123002,-73.9371038,3a,75y,32.34h,74.37t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1s8Gj4wObGwZq6JoRf8pw3Tg!2e0!7i13312!8i6656!6m1!1e1

If you turn to the left that is city hall at the bottom and to the right would be Stewarts by the red light and is the top of the hill. I needed pedal assist back when the Currie was 24V but had no problem at 36V and 675W and at 750W with the Unite motor about 7 mph. the Schwinn at 44.4V at least 8 mph and about 6 mph with the 20" bike at 24V and 533W when it was running. Why I needed the 80 amp fuses as 40 amp fuses would blow on that hill.

I cant find the key for the Cash box the two 8.0 packs are in but am thinking about separating them for 44V@ 8.0 so I can run the DiamondBack for short runs to Wall-Mart
but am not sure. the throttle is very sensitive and am afraid of breaking the forks with that much power even with the torque arms.

The only reason why I miss the 20" bike with the motor mounted with the 2 by 4 was easy to control with the pot. and would chug up those last two hills without a problem. I really don't need to go up those really steep hills unless it is 3AM in the morning and I need a beer. :lol: I have walked it up Crane st with a tiny turn of the pot it kind of pulls me up the hill when walking it. Cant do that with a thumb throttle. Thanks for posting and I will see if I can get the DiamondBack going soon. It is just way too heavy with six SLAs. It makes a 20" kids bike even more unsafe with all that weight.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Your posts don't give a very good impression of steepness.
Here is one of my steepest local streets ...

 

[latecurtis]

bike shop wanted almost $30 for the freeweel Will have to get it at the bike club.

Rode the Schwinn again and keeping the batteries charged.

Had to solder again also. Those are the new cables I did to charge the 16AH 6S combo pack.(8.0 * 2 in parallel.) I had to solder a cable with a bullet on one end and the clip on the other to plug into the cables to charge this ice cube contraption I have. It is easier to leave it how it is than soldering 4 mm parallel series bullet cables.

Oh and when the Schwinn made it up crane st. hill it was with gator clips. How could that be possible at only 5 amps?

4.16 * 12 (Dans packs average voltage after charging) = 49.92V. * 5 amps = 249.6 watts into the motor - 15% (heat loss) = 212.16 watts.

Basically that would be physically impossible so the gator clips will handle about 300% of their capacity > 600 < 900 watts I would guess but could cause excessive heat and sparking at times. However I did not experience any of that with the Schwinn climbing that hill. Peak wattage could be up to 1200 to 1800 Watts theoretically or more but average wattage climbing the hill would exceed 20 amps. 20 * 49V = 980W as I have blew 40 amp fuses at 24V and 500 watts.



Basically gater clips may be underrated.
Could a different connection improve overall efficiency delivering power from the power source to the motor. absolutely. % wise I would guess about > 10 <15%.

DA. please let me know. I am not looking at any graph to make those numbers I remember what I have learned here and would like to know how close I am to actual tested numbers. I am hoping that I retained some knowledge here on endless sphere. thanks.

LC. out.

LC. out.

 

[Sunder]

No sense of scale to those clips in your photos, but I would guess it was something like this:

http://muellerelectric.com/wp-content/uploads/DS-BU-30X.pdf

If that's the case, they're rated for 5A, or 180W @ 36v, or 220w @ 44v.

Like everything else, that doesn't mean it will melt above that, but you're probably getting sagging voltages badly, and if you went long enough, you might find yourself with a nice warm, "it burnses!" to the touch alligator clip. You'd never know though, because being so thin, and having so much surface area per weight, it'd cool pretty quickly and you'd think nothing was wrong.

 

[latecurtis]

Once these packs are done we shall have our first LiPo SHOOT! You guys did not think I forgot about that did you. I think they should make it thru the summer as they ran good today and I did not charge them since before making that beer trip and going up crane st. hill.

The difference was when I charged them before it was LILO to 4.1V and they would settle to 4.07 after. Now they average 4.16 to 4.17 after charging LiPo.

They were at about 3.7V the only time they ever slowed down about a year or so ago. Did not run them for quite awhile. including the beer trip the other night --- I did about four miles total and voltage was at 3.83V average so the packs are good for between 4 and 5 miles maybe 6 or 7 if no hills.
I went to Wall - Mart today and did congress st. hill today, the one where I burned out the Currie. but I walked up it. Better to get a little exercise than to beat on my motor.That is where I went to try to get the right freewheel. Not paying $30 though. Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Oh ... you can pump 30A through 5A alligator clips!

5A rating is to indicate reasonable efficiency and durability.
At full throttle=high amps energy is wasted as heat and voltage sags ... restricting power output.

Check alligator clips for discoloration, burn-arc spots and reduced spring strength .... all signs of wasteful, power robbing, damaging heat.

Oh and Oh ... running your power through a series of steel bolts is inefficient also!
Heat waste will not show up as quickly, due to mass, but voltage restriction should be noticeable.

 

[DrkAngel]

Oh ... you can pump 30A through 5A alligator clips!

5A rating is to indicate reasonable efficiency and durability.
At full throttle=high amps energy is wasted as heat and voltage sags ... restricting power output.

Check alligator clips for discoloration, burn-arc spots and reduced spring strength .... all signs of wasteful, power robbing, damaging heat.

Oh and Oh ... running your power through a series of steel bolts is inefficient also!
Heat waste will not show up as quickly, due to mass, but voltage restriction should be noticeable.

Let me analogize voltage restriction as similar to a garden type water hose.
Large diameter hose will flow plenty (Amps) of good pressure (Volts) water = large gauge copper wire.
Small diameter hose will flow less (Amps) of fair pressure (Volts) water = small gauge copper wire.
Ideally you would want full unrestricted flow for best volume (Amps) and pressure (Volts).
Any restriction will reduce both!
Each 5A alligator clip is similar to a kink or a person stepping on the hose ... reducing pressure and volume of water.
You still get water ... but with enough restriction points, becomes a drizzle compared to a possible gush.

• Point is not that it won't work ... just that it could work much better.
• More power
• Less damaging heat
• Less battery wear and tear
• Better range
• Good voltage allows more motor output with less damaging heat
• Better efficiency

 

[latecurtis]

I understand DA.

That is why I don't plan on ever ordering SLAs again.

Also why I own those two 6S- 8.0 packs combined for 16.0 Ah

Also as soon as I read your post DA I went and checked my mail. In about 1 minute or so I will either be smiling or frowning depending on what the balancer has on the screen.

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. SLA for 36V only ?

Now DA you can see that I am phasing out the need to use gater clips as I will be soldering 4 mm bullets on these today if I have the right size shrink wrap.

These LiPos have Diamondback written all over them. lol

Also when I do run the gater clips it will be 5 amp * 2 or 10 amp as I will be splitting the wires coming from the controller for two negatives and two positives for 20Ah at 36V. so 36V * 10 amps = 360W. That means double the flow or 1/2 of the power loss when going up hills at full throttle.

I cant claim the same for Dan's old packs but they are not going to last forever anyway.

Another thing I was thinking was selling or trading the six SLAs. they have not really been abused except for maybe a couple of those hills I posted yesterday (but not the steep ones) and I talked to a guy with an electric scooter or two maybe he said and an electric wheel chair all of which takes SLAs. (which is what he needs as the ones he has are dead or only good for about a block per charge. lol)

I can run the 24" bike now after I put the 60T on the back for 32.5 mph instead of 35 mph gearing. Also at 44.4V LiPo the voltage should be slightly lower than 4 fully charged SLAs which equal slightly lower rpm for better gearing.

When I ran that bike at 48V SLA and the 56T spoke kit on the back it made it up state st. hill which I posted yesterday or the day before. The only thing is I had to pedal assist. Usually I don't with the other bike set ups including the 20" 533W 20 mph set up.

I want to try that bike with the new LiPo and the 60T spoke kit simply because if it does make it up the hill without pedaling it will save me money ordering 8 mm chains and sprockets or expensive Custom 65T sprocket from Kings. I have no money to order anything for quite awhile. I went thru my settlement money and am on a strict budget to pay my bills. Why I ordered new LiPo.

The idea of getting rid of the SlAs makes sense but then I am stuck with two 36V controllers for future builds (one which I already got) and another on the way from China. . If I can get enough money from six SLAs, the original 24V SLA Currie charger. The three stage 12V SLA charger and a third 12V SLA trickle charger all for around $100 including the custom cables I could probably afford two decent 5S LiPo packs.

Please let me know as for $100 I will include all I listed above or even trade for two used 5S LiPo packs but they must be 6.0 or higher preferably 8.0 - 5S packs. Please let me know. Or a used 36V LIFEPO4 pack if it comes with the charger. It has been raining and expecting to hail soon. The 24" Huffy is in my back yard upside down locked to a shopping cart. I need to drag it upstairs and dry it out so I can start working on it. I really want to run that 1,000W 48V motor again.

The picture under the top one shows the four points of contact of the rear rack and should be strong enough to run flat steel bar with bolts and nuts with a center hole drilled 0ut for custom U brakes. Dan I think mentioned the need for rear brakes which I agree. the front brakes work but need to be fine tuned.

The little wood box on the back of the DimondBack needs modifying plus a lid with hinges to hold the new LiPo packs also.
No cargo though as the Diamondback is a kids bike and any more weight just makes safety issues with it much worse.

If I could mount the LiPos and the chain and padlock towards the front somehow on the 24" bike , I would like a cargo basket for the back. Also I have that triangle rack I was building but never painted and finished. Maybe I could mount the LiPos to it somehow towards the front of it and put a small wire basket on the front handlebars for the chain and padlock.

I will have to agree just by looking at the bike that one motor and approx. 30 mph top speed should be the absolute limit on that bike. 40 mph without a heavy duty Chromalloy dual suspension frame with disk brakes back and front is defiantly not recommended I am not doing it even though I really want to.


I need even weight distribution if I put a cargo basket on the back with that heavy motor and spoke kit. Any further advice or ideas on this will be greatly appreciated. Please post them as this is my current build. I am taking the wheel off the 20" bike with the 60T spoke kit to replace the 56T that is on the 24" bike today. Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

When you get braver you can remove cells from 2 x 6s LiPo to build 10s LiPo for 36V.
Your 2 8Ah packs, each with their 1 cell out of whack would be good candidates.

I considered getting 3 x 6s 22.2V 10Ah to build:

6s + 1s = 7s 25.9V 10Ah for my 24V bikes; (24V controllers are anemic with 22.2V battery - premature LVC engagement)
and
6s + 4s =10s 37V 10Ah for my 37V bikes;
and
1 spare cell for future repair;

Yes, I do separate and rebuild-repair RC LiPo.
Good success in eliminating self-discharging cells and matching capacity for power tool rebuilding.

 

[latecurtis]

Thanks DA that is good to now.

I am going to try to get around to putting bullets on those new 10.0 packs today.

I balanced charged the packs Dan sent last night and am hooking up balancers now to see what the drop in voltage is.

Same thing that happened yesterday. I had a cell too high and hooked up the balancer and left it on too long and then they were too low at about 4.06 so recharged all of them last night until early morning.

I will try again with the balancer but not leaving it for long. I am sure you know of a way to solve it better DA but I am not that good yet. I will have to turn on the balancer and hope for the best. thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

Use balance function of charger!

Save a whole lot of time and effort ... and do a lot better job!

 

[latecurtis]

I always balance charge DA.

I have never ever not used balance charge since charging LiPo.

neither is working . 4.21 on the top cell and 4.16 on the other five just now.

the other side is good but have to balance also to get = voltage so back on the balancer. :x

I will have to run them at a lower voltage which was around 4.09 to 4.10 yesterday before I recharged last night until early this morning.

They are older packs though I guess. You have to expect things like this to come up I guess. Perhaps if I run them a little lower next time instead of recharging at about 3.84V or I could just charge them at a lower amps so they have more time to balance.

the packs are 10 ah but two 5 AH combined on each side. I usually balance charge at 3 amps each side. Maybe I should only go 1 amp to give them more time to balance. Please let me know. thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DrkAngel]

You do plug in the balance plug and "balance" charge until charger flashes "Full"?

 

[Sunder]

Yes, I do separate and rebuild-repair RC LiPo.
Good success in eliminating self-discharging cells and matching capacity for power tool rebuilding.

I've done a little as well, but am a little inexperienced in it. I found Turnigy 25C basic ones were good for rebuilding - the solder was a standard 60/40 mix, and the tape holding the cells together could be easily separated with a small amount of patience.

Zippy Flight masters on the other hand required a very hot soldering iron, was difficult to resolder, and I lost a couple cells because the tape holding the cells together was REALLY tough.

Based on my experience with those two, I did have a specific question: Have you had a chance to take apart Multistars? There are some really nice big, low C rating cells of theirs I'd like to take apart for stationary power use. Was thinking of getting 7 x 6S, which is really cheap, and make it into 6 x 7S, perfect for a 24v inverter.

I had considered buying just one to see how easy it was to take apart and de-solder, but at ~$120 + Shipping a piece, I was hoping someone else had already reconfigured them before I invest even that much.

Alternatively, do you use a chemical like acetone to dissolve the glue? Would the polymer film on each cell resist the acetone?

 

[latecurtis]

You do plug in the balance plug and "balance" charge until charger flashes "Full"?

A few days ago I got a beep and improper connection or similar message. The skycharger 6200 is a smart charger and when balance charging it will let you know if the balance cable has a wire unhooked. The wire pops back on the pin but I got a pack of extenders so I don't use that one now.

No I don't always charge until FULL as it does not usually go until full but amps are at 0 sometimes for an hour or more. It has even gone for almost two hours at 0 amps and still not read full. This is about as good as I can get the packs and am planning on running them downtown to city hall tomorrow. when I get back I may run them down to about 3.7V.

About a year or so ago is when they slowed down for the first time since I had them and it was around 3.74V. That is due to their age no doubt and should not hurt if they slow down at that voltage. If they slow down at 3.4V or lower that is a different story.

After I run them to about 3.75V I will balance charge at 1 amp and see if I can get a FULL reading or 0 amps for about an hour and then wait about an hour and see if that cell is still .05V higher than the others. Unless you have a better solution I will try that. Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[Sunder]

No I don't always charge until FULL as it does not usually go until full but amps are at 0 sometimes for an hour or more. It has even gone for almost two hours at 0 amps and still not read full. This is about as good as I can get the packs and am planning on running them downtown to city hall tomorrow. when I get back I may run them down to about 3.7V.

If it's not full at 0 amps, it means its balancing. If you take it off before it says "Full" or its equivalent, you're not getting a full balance.

Years ago, for a test, I ran an ammeter off 3 cells out of a 12S pack. I knew it was dangerous, but it was just for one test to get some diagnostic data. As expected, by the end of the ride, those 3 cells were a fair bit lower than the rest (about 0.1 to 0.12v). That one took 16 hours to rebalance.

Balancing is a very slow process, especially for larger packs, because they typically can only draw a few milliamps for balancing. It's worse to have one cell low than one cell high, because if it's one cell low in a 12S pack, you need to drain 11 cells, then charge all 12 back up. If it's one cell high, you only need to drain one cell.

 

[latecurtis]

ok. thanks.