new eZip motor

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Magic Pie 5 is around 250 and is rated for 3000w, so could probably handle double to triple that.

https://m.alibaba.com/product/60385450794/3000W-Golden-Motor-Magic-Pie-5.html?spm=a2706.7843667.1998817009.6.GihJYi
 
Sunder said:
Magic Pie 5 is around 250 and is rated for 3000w, so could probably handle double to triple that.

https://m.alibaba.com/product/60385450794/3000W-Golden-Motor-Magic-Pie-5.html?spm=a2706.7843667.1998817009.6.GihJYi
Sunder, I don't think he likes the idea of something so simple. Where would he put the 2x4 and chains? Not to mention the need for more batteries. 24v is all he wants to use. First we say to KISS but that doesn't seem to be HIS thing. I sure like the simplicity of a hub motor. Might not be the only choice out there but to me it is. I get on my ebike and ride, be it to the store or to the lake for pleasure, I don't have to worry about if it's gonna make it there or better yet, BACK. I sure know if I get a mid-drive I'm gonna carry a spare chain.

Dan
 
Just pointing out there IS a hub motor that is cheaper and will outperform his setup, so even price is not a good reason to stick with his setup.
 
https://m.alibaba.com/product/60385450794/3000W-Golden-Motor-Magic-Pie-5.html?spm=a2706.7843667.1998817009.6.GihJYi

OK That is a sweet deal and if it will work for my 29" bike I will order it for that bike. It would be a rear wheel and if I can get 50 mph out of it I will order it. It looks like 700cc is the largest. 700cc is larger than 28" right ? As long as it will fit on the back of the 29" frame and I can get disk brakes to work I will order it. I posted the specs in the picture on the bottom. Please let me know.

However for $100 a 3.5 HP chain drive motor is a steal and I already have a rack that matches the Haro perfect.

The smaller 1 HP motor runs at 3,000 rpm at 24V but with 22V LiPo it will run at about 2800 rpm I figure. I am looking at 8mm chain and mabye a 72 T wheel and 10T motor sprocket for that. It would be perfect for the 26" 90s style Black Dimond Back mountain bike at Dougs house. I bought the frame from him awhile ago and have to go and build it.

Please let me know more about alibaba and if anyone has ordered from there. I have never ordered from them and don't even know how.
I am definitely ordering that motor , however I may wait until spring. The $100 motor may not be around in the spring so I am ordering that first if possible. Thanks.

Please let me know if you guys ordered from there and if it is easy to do and the quality and customer service. I need to know before dealing with them. I usually only deal with e bay as you all know. Thanks.

I voted for Donald Trump today. Why is he getting elected is very simple to me. How many times has an English speaking american walked into a corner store to have a bunch of Arabs or Pakistan or Afghanistan clowns speaking in their language and laughing. You know they are talking shit about you but cant understand a word they are saying. I believe if you cant speak English you don't belong here. Also getting a free pass and a meal ticket here just because your country sucks is not good enough. Trump feels they need a very good reason to come over here and I support that.

I hope he ships them all back. I also hope their boat sinks about half way. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=le5OAGFqkZY&feature=youtu.be

The bottom pictures are of the 20" bike with the 500W motor being installed. I am using those 1 by 1s instead of a 2 by 4. It should be finished by tomorrow.

LC. out.
 

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c2txtYbHuZQ&feature=youtu.be


I got the idea for those big clamps instead of U bolts like I had before from this video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wp_LOIfx1fs&t=272s

No it is not finished yet. I will be replacing the zip ties which hold the 1 by 1s to the forks with smaller clamps like the ones used to hold the motor.
Also I will be getting one more large clamp for the motor just to make sure it don't move. see top picture below.
I made up my mind on the Haro also. It will be getting that $100 3.6 HP chain drive motor which will mount to the rear rack.

Also when I was walking back from the store I have decided that the 29" bike will be getting 28" wheels for the front and rear. :D see bottom picture below. I think Sunder said that that Magic Pie 5 could handle three times the rated 3 kilowatts. How about 6 kilowatts for each wheel which would be 12 kilowatts total. Maybe that is not enough. 7.5 kilowatts each for a 15 kilowatt All wheel drive bike. :twisted: Thanks.

LC. out.
 

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As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. E bike #5

I currently have 3 running e bikes. The Schwinn , The 20" Blue Diamondback and the 24" chain driven cargo bike I ride most of the time.
The #4 bike build above is geared for 20.5 mph with the 80T wheel and 11T motor sprocket. It also has a pedal chain on it so small hills wont be a problem.

My question is about build # 5. I don't have money for a 3.6 HP motor right now but I do have my 800W Unite motor and a 26" black Diamondback mountain bike.
The problem with the bottom picture is the 74 tooth wheel sprocket. A 10 to 1 gear reduction calls for a 76T wheel sprocket but a 74 is available from electric scooter parts and that is close enough.

I don't know if there is any way of bolting it to a 26" - 36 spoke wheel. I am not familiar with such a sprocket. It is three hole instead of four so it don't look like it would bolt to a freewheel. My question is What does it bolt up to and is there a 26" bike wheel it would bolt up to ?

I have the 56T spoke kit minus the rubber parts I installed on that 29" bike rear wheel which I wont be using as I am getting Magic Pie 5s for that bike but a 56T is way over gearing for a 26" wheel. It was slightly over geared on a 20" wheel. I cant use it for the 800W motor.

Please let me know as I would like to build the Black 26" Dimond Back bike with the motor I already have and get the $100 used 3.6 HP motor for the Haro.
 

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I got two thoughts for bike #5.

Being where you are (so close to the Canadian borders), you're likely to get a camp like Calais, as all the anti-trump people try to flee into Canada. So you could build like a fast pursuit bike to chase them down. Or else, you could build it in case you need to flee in a few months and things get real there...

All jokes aside, you're in a pretty nice area of the world. Considered building a full suspension mountain bike with gearing, so you can do singletracks?

I know it's not that close to you, but my dream is to go around Boulder, Colorado on a low powered (500-800w?) fully geared mountain bike. It's on the retirement bucket list.
 
my spouse of almost 20 years used to live in Bolder Colorado and owned a condo back in the seventies. She just read your post as she was bringing me coffee. She misses it there. I made it to the west coast but never went there. Let me know when you go as hopefully I will have my 2005 dodge caravan on the road and can meet you there with a two seater trike so i can ride along with the ol lady and we can hit the trails. I am not kidding. She is 73 and wants to see it again before she leaves this world. I am only 51 but my health is not good. (bad ticker valve) We met in Kingston NY in a rooming house back in 1997. I was 33 and she was 55 but looked around 40 at the time.

Anyway what does that 74T wheel sprocket bolt to. I really want to know as that black 90s 26" Dimond Back frame is perfect for around 28 mph and is sitting on Dougs back porch waiting for me to build it. Thanks.

LC. out.
 
The picture of the wheels show the stock Currie wheel on the left. All I need is a sprocket which will bolt on to a freewheel for the 800W motor. I don't believe the 74 tooth 8mm sprocket will work however am not sure. I was hoping someone would know as the black 26" Diamondback is my next build as I already have the motor and two 36V controllers brand new in a drawer. see bottom picture.

The other pictures show my progress on build #4. I am ready to wire up the variable controller with the pot. It should be up and running by tomorrow for a test video.
 

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Finally available!

9T 410 sprocket for MY1020 motor w/12mm counterbore



9T 410 sprocket for MY1020 motor w/14mm counterbore

 

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real motor.jpg

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Electric-Motor-36-Volt-750W-Brushed-DC-Gear-Reduced-MY1020Z/232133062684?_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042&_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D38530%26meid%3D6832ba45cfe74e9d80a96985aa003ee8%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D262525427253


Ok That looks like a great thing however I don't plan on spending the money to buy another motor that is in the picture so if the sprocket will fit on the two unite motors I currently own it is a very good thing. If I were to buy a motor it would be that 750W motor above as a 350 watt motor is only 70 watts more then the common 280W motors used for millions of kids razor scooters. 350 watts is good for a 100 pound person , not a 250 pound person.

The current #4 build with the #25 chain and motor sprocket FAILED MISERABLY!
Everything looked great in the video and I was convinced that it would work however the other night when I tried it the wheel spun backwards. I then reversed the motor wires and the freewheel spun but the wheel did not.

I had to turn the motor around and also turn the wheel around and it was a big disaster after that. I lost a large washer and now the chain is too close to the fork and wood part and after lining it up the best that I could and hooking up the wiring and controller I tested it with a 12V SLA and the chain popped off after a few seconds.

Both of my motors , the 500W on the little 20" bike and the 800W which I plan on installing on a 26" black Diamond Back bike I am building soon are dual D bore 10mm. I am looking for any alternative which is an upgrade from cheap skinny #25 chain however it requires a dual D bore motor sprocket or something compatible. Even #35 chain is a reasonable upgrade from #25. I fail to understand why Unite puts those cheap and cheesy #25 sprockets on their motors anyway when #35 is better.

All the wiring is installed and not on a basket this time so I don't have to unhook everything when I turn it upside down to change the wheel and hook up a chain. It is not only all out of the way but since ALL my batteries have exceeded their prime including my 16 AH -6S packs which slowed down the last time I ran them and were still above 3.7V per cell upon arriving home I will need to keep some SLAs in the rear basket.

I plan on running the one new good 10.0 LiPo pack in the front with a balancer to check the voltage and will have the option of unhooking it when it gets down to 3.7V and hooking up to SLAs in the rear basket. Yes the connectors are soldered with electrical tape over them so with the bullet plugs shown in the picture it is all simply plug and play when on the go. Also with the on and off switch controlling all the power no pre hook up cable is required. I know it looks like an electrical nightmare but I tested it last night.At least I did that part right.

Is the 350W motor in that picture a Dual D bore ? All I would need to make it work for the 20" bike is to take the 56T spoke sprocket off of the 29" wheel and order a new spoke mount kit for about $10 including the rubber piece I lost and new hardware and if that 9T sprocket will fit on a dual D bore motor it would be geared perfect.

However the motor shaft in that picture does not look the same as the motors I have and I am surely not spending money on another motor when I already own two so please let me know as I really want to use that 56 tooth sprocket I already own for something. Thanks. LC. out.
 

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latecurtis said:
The current #4 build with the #25 chain and motor sprocket FAILED MISERABLY!
Everything looked great in the video and I was convinced that it would work however the other night when I tried it the wheel spun backwards. I then reversed the motor wires and the freewheel spun but the wheel did not.

I am at a loss at how you managed to do this. The freewheel would have to sit on the left hand side of the bike for this to occur, unless it's a very rare reverse freewheel. (Usually made for petrol motor setups, which need both a drive from the pedals and the motor).

Just a very random thought... From looking at your motor, it seems like the output shaft is at the top of the motor, not the centre, as with most motors. This means you could potentially immerse the motor in oil for improved cooling. You could quite substantially over drive your motors, without them overheating. Bolt it to a metal box, fill it with an oil compatible with the laminate on the windings/stator, but kept below the spindle level, and the oil basically becomes a huge, liquid heat sink, which can then shed through the metal box.

Should be easy to keep it from leaking unless you lay your bike flat.

There are also commercially manufactured oil cooled motors, but they tend to be quite large, as you might imagine - They only go to that complexity where very high output is required, in a compact package. Golf carts, boats, etc.
 
I am at a loss at how you managed to do this. The freewheel would have to sit on the left hand side of the bike for this to occur, unless it's a very rare reverse freewheel. (Usually made for petrol motor setups, which need both a drive from the pedals and the motor).

I did install it on the left side. Is why it failed miserably. Also and the wheel is bent and needs a truing. I also need a different longer axle with some washers to keep the chain away from the forks and the wood brace. There is still a chance to make the #25 chain work but should at least get #25H chain as it is a little wider and unforgiving and a little stronger. However the point was to use what I already have for that build #4 and to spend as little as possible on build #5 so I will have more money for the 29" winch project and the Magic Pie 5 rear wheel kit for the Haro V3 .

fill it with an oil compatible with the laminate on the windings/stator, but kept below the spindle level, and the oil basically becomes a huge, liquid heat sink, which can then shed through the metal box.


That is funny as on you tube the other day I saw my first mineral oil cooled desktop case. I did not even realize that mineral oil was not a conductor. I should have learned it in material science technology at the college but I don't recall it.

Anyway it would not solve the gearing problem I have with finding sprockets. It would only add to the gearing issue as great. , I can over volt a 36V motor to 72V.
Now my rpm doubles as well as my power so now I require an even larger custom sprocket. Mabye a 130 tooth or something. My 800W 36V motor would be turning 5,500 rpm instead of 2,750.

This is why I started a new thread. A 6HP 2,100 rpm winch motor will require a small sprocket to go 50 mph. When I checked it I think it was 44 tooth. 6HP = 50 mph easilly on DAs power to speed graph he posted many pages ago. 1600W at 5,500 rpm is a little over 1 HP. It would be working much too hard to achieve even 37 mph. 35 mph would be tops. where if PROPERLY geared as DA would say. say 45 to 47 mph should be easily achievable WITHOUT overheating or burning out a 6 HP winch motor. Gearing for 55 or 60 mph however would probably burn the winch motor out within 30 seconds.

45 or 47 mph for 10 to 15 seconds would also not push the thermal limits of the Kelly controller rated for 120 amps continuous and 200 amps peak. Normal cruising speed on open road would be approx. 35 mph.

Anyway I started a new post on the winch motor as I have not gave up on the idea yet. I am looking for different controller options. 12 - 24V and 400 amps is what I will need for maximum motor power. 6 HP also should not be required for 45 mph. four horsepower should do the trick so if geared for 45 mph the motor should not run too hot and a 300 amp controller should even work. Thanks.

LC. out.
 
As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. maybe :twisted: even 60 mph. :twisted:

I guess I will be building the Haro over on the other forum but for the 29" mountain bike It will be here. I have a back 29" wheel that has disk brake mount for a sprocket for a 6 HP winch motor.

There will be two throttles and controllers as well as separate batteries. It wont be a cheap build. It will get disk brakes in the front and U brakes in the rear.

Not sure what is going on the front, Either a 6 kilowatt cro motor / Hubzilla or the Magic pie 5. I will experiment with different sprockets for the rear. The sole purpose of the 29" beast is to roll it up to at least 50 mph as quickly as possible so I can race 2 stroke crotch rockets.. :lol: :lol: :lol:

However for now I have a question though for my little 20 mph 20" build. The one in the picture with the 500W 24V motor.

http://www.staton-inc.com/store/index.php?p=product&id=2199


The motor looks like my 500W motor but my motor is a dual d bore. I am confused.

Could someone please let me know if that would work. My motor takes a dual D bore 10mm sprocket.

thanks.

LC, out.
 
14mm not 10mm. So I take it as the shaft is 10mm with two flats on it. It's still 10mm, if I'm right. have you ever measured the shaft of the motor?

So what I read is that you are going to install a 426 Hemi into a front wheel shit box and then install a small box Chevy to the rear with a chain. Holy shit what great idea! I said it before and I'll say it again, STUBBORN.
Rip the front end off and blow the rear end off. Maybe if both happen at the same time you can slide in the bottom bracket :mrgreen:

Why don't you contact LFP and borrow the death bike. The name doesn't mean it, but, what your proposing sure does to me.
Any body else?

dan
 
Pretty sure LC's just trolling now.
 
DrkAngel said:
Finally available!

9T 410 sprocket for MY1020 motor w/12mm counterbore



9T 410 sprocket for MY1020 motor w/14mm counterbore

Designed for standard MY1020 shaft ...
12mm and 14mm are counterbore dimensions, allowing socket clearance for retention nut ...
most probably.

Confirm via email to seller?
 
As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns.

Untitled.jpg

I am not sure why one would think that. I went to Doug's again across town approx 4 miles round trip with the cargo bike with the Unite motor on the rear. The LiPos are past their half way point in their life and at 6S or 22V I am only doing about 10 mph top speed now to make them last.

Also since I changed the flat tire at Doug's about 6 weeks ago now there has been a noise where the chain is hitting against something. I think it is the metal bracket. It is no big deal as it still gets me around and probably have close to 100 miles on that build now if not more.

Doug has a 2014 Blue Diamond Back frame he is giving me for $10 for a spare. It has quality brakes on it which he is moving to the Black Diamond Back outlook. You will see that the brakes are adequate for a 27 to 29 mph top speed bike which is all I expect from the 800 watt 36V motor which is going on that bike.

He moved the axle over on that 20" rim so I can attempt to make the 20" bike on my front porch work as the 24V 500W motor and variable controller is already installed. That 9T standard bike chain sprocket DA posted is simply plan B if I can't get the 80T #25 chain and sprocket to work on the front of the 20" bike.

I am NOT Trolling or anything of the sort. I simply don't wish to order any more parts which are wrong and don't work. I don't feel like throwing money away. DA is correct about contacting the company however and the shaft on the motor DA posted does not look like the shaft on the 500W motor I have.

The trolling statement may have been about the cro motor on the front and winch motor on the rear of the 29" bike next summer. It will be a miracle if I can come up with the money for one motor let alone two. However that is at least 6 months away. For the winter time I am just building 20 and 27 mph bikes to make use of the parts and 6S LiPo batteries I currently own instead of just letting them sit around.

My hold up now is money for the few parts I will need. The ol ladies SSA check was held up this month for a week and I paid all the rent and she is reluctant to give me money for electric bike parts when I already have three e bikes running. That and I am looking for a 4K TV and a 22 to 27" monitor for Christmas and will probably be building a gaming machine which will push 4K resolution at 60 frames per second at Doug's house.
Doug plans on upgrading again to Skylake and his stuff is only three months old. He is selling his i5 Devils Canyon with the board and 8 gig ram for $200 and I will be getting a 1050 graphics card and already have a case with full side panel 8)

Also I want to put about $30 on my pirate game. All with a Wall Mart money card that only has $2 and change on it currently. All I really need to get two more e bikes rolling is that 9 tooth sprocket and a new spoke sprocket install kit for that 56T sprocket I am removing from that 29" wheel as I will be getting a stronger sprocket which bolts to where the disk brake goes for the 29" rear wheel sitting on Dougs back porch No type of spoke sprocket would hold up to a 6 HP winch motor as Chalo stated on my other new post refeering it as a rag tag sprocket or something :lol: :lol: That 56T sprocket can then be used for a 500W 20 mph build which it will support as that is what I am riding around on now.

I hope I cleared things up and thanks DA for posting. It has been awhile since I heard from you. LC. out.
 
1. A Cromotor requires a 150mm dropout. Good luck finding front forks that wide.

2. 500w on alloy forks or 1000w with steel + torque arms is the maximum most people would call safe.

The idea of a 60mph build by putting a cromotor in a front fork is so ridiculous and so unsafe, when people are warning you against a 50mph rear drive is provocative and not logical, hence, trolling.
 
The idea of a 60mph build by putting a cromotor in a front fork is so ridiculous and so unsafe, when people are warning you against a 50mph rear drive is provocative and not logical, hence, trolling.

Yes.

But it also could be called pipe dreams ! :lol:
 
latecurtis said:
The idea of a 60mph build by putting a cromotor in a front fork is so ridiculous and so unsafe, when people are warning you against a 50mph rear drive is provocative and not logical, hence, trolling.

Yes.

But it also could be called pipe dreams ! :lol:
Called, more realistically, a tinfoil nightmare!

latecurtis said:
Also since I changed the flat tire at Doug's about 6 weeks ago now there has been a noise where the chain is hitting against something. I think it is the metal bracket. It is no big deal as it still gets me around and probably have close to 100 miles on that build now if not more.
Wow ... ?
Just passed 10,000 miles on my eZip! ... ~6000 miles on each of my 2 - 25.9V battery builds ...
 
10,000 miles... wow. I barely put that on my car in a year.

With a bike reliable to that distance, If I were LC, I would build a trike for my old lady, get army surplus camping equipment, wait until spring, and cycle around the US.

With all the exercise, not being able to carry so much booze, and the fresh air, he might even improve his health.

But thats just me.
 
When 1st built, with both batteries, @ 15mph, range was about 80miles without pedal assist.
That's more than 5 hours in the saddle.
More typical was 1 battery @ 20mph for about 25mile range but I do pedal to avoid undue attention and to help keep my butt from falling asleep.
 
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