new eZip motor

[DrkAngel]

Tonight I will remove all the spokes from the Hub motor and re lace the hub motor into a different rim. I have already started removing the spokes from the rim I intend to use and will be going down to the van to get the hub motor at some point tonight.

Such needless difficulty, labor and, I'm sure, frustration!

Using a 22ga insulated wire, wrap the outer spoke intersections in a continuous path, to stabilize.
Remove all nipples.
Wiggle hub-spoke assembly out of old rim
Wiggle hub-spoke assembly into new rim
Replace all nipples and tighten to moderate thread depth
Tighten every spoke identical turns
Repeat till nearly snug
Place on bike and give final centering and true

IMPORTANT! Ensure nipple holes are large enough for proper nipple "lean" = angle!

 

[latecurtis]

No. That won't work. DAN sent me new spokes. when the spoke broke about 5 years ago in the 1,000 watt 26" hub motor. Those for the hub motor are shorter that the spokes I am removing from the rim.

Such needless difficulty, labor and, I'm sure, frustration!

I learned how to make my e bike workshop fun. I just do a little at a time now instead of trying to do a big project in a big rush. No rush here. Wind is blowing about 90 mph today.

Also I have several bikes to ride and a van if I just need basic transportation. I don't have a job to get to and have to get a build done fast to get there. :lol:

My e bike workshop is stress free now that those braces keep my chain on the chain drive builds. That was the only thing that caused stress. I like my builds to work.

Also I know where the bike shop is that sells and works on e bikes. Pete's electric bikes. I can drive there in about 30 minutes if or when I need to to get the wheel trued or something done beyond my capability. He told me on the phone that he can true any hub motor.

I even bought brake cables at Wall-Mart last night and the guy down stairs will be putting them on the Haro V3. I have 3 e bikes in the van and will have 3 e bikes up here by spring and two other bikes I need to convert for 8 total e bikes. :lol:

1, The 20" Turbo with the 800W hub motor. - front brake working.

2. The Currie e zip Trailz with the 750 watt chain drive gear reduction motor. - front brake working.

3. The 1,800W brushless motor. Working and currently testing. - brakes need to be installed.

4. The Haro V3. - 26" mountain bike. 1,000W MY1020 motor will be installed on the back for 24 mph gearing @ 750W and 2,250 rpm. !,000W hub motor (the one that is getting the new rim) will go on the front.

5. The 26" Dual suspension. _ possibly getting a 1,500W rear hub motor. - Pending second stimulus package.

6. The Giant Roam - dual 500W geared hub motors. - Almost done. pending new tires and a rear disk brake and mounting of the second controller and throttle for the front motor. rear is installed and working.

That leaves two e bikes.

1. Easy Street. - The 700C Hybrid I am taking the front motor for the Giant Roam. - Pending my first belt or mid drive build.

2, A 27.5" silver Dimond back mountain bike. - Pending - HUBZILLA - the CROMOTOR V4 from Greyborg electric.

https://www.tpfebike.com/apps/webstore/products/show/6744667



Yea. Like to see the look on that kids face that has the 40 + mph mini bike when he meets HUBZILLA ! :lol: :lol: :lol:

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[999zip999]

Wow Curtis you've come a long way.

 

[latecurtis]

Thank you.

 

[markz]

Hubzilla threw me off, thought Hubmonster
"Most powerful ebike hub motor in the world"

Where is Eric Hicks, sounds familiar and great gift of the gab. Yes, the Cromotor.

Slow and steady latecurtis,

 

[latecurtis]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ug9PMorBhlc&feature=youtu.be

Houston has a problem.

The top 2 pics below this post show the crack on the rim the hub motor is on now and the pics. under those are the rim I just removed the spokes from.

Well I guess it won't work. It seems that the rim I was going to use has a worse crack in it than the rim the hub motor is on now. I do not have another 26" dual wall rim. I do however have three dual wall 700c rims which will work. In fact two are brand new or almost brand new. Easy Street (the 700c hybrid) It has a 700c e bikeling hub motor which is going on the Giant Roam. I have the original dual wall 700c rim that was on it. It is NOT dual suspension either so can run a chain drive in the rear. I just need to know where I can order spokes to lace the hub motor into a 700c rim.

The main reason for a rear chain drive also is the fact that gearing will change for a 26" hub motor when switching to a 700c rim. Instead of 28 mph top speed @ 1,000W and 48V it should be around 30 mph. That is great for the flat but the hub motor will work harder up hills. A rear chain drive however geared for around 30 mph @ 48V would make Easy Street (the 700c hybrid an awesome e bike with 21 pedal gears + dual motors. If I gear both motors for 30 mph @ 48V - 1,000 watts (2,000W total) then at 36V and 750 watts each (1,500W total) It will still go about 24 mph and be an animal up about any hill.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1000W-48V-DC-Electric-eATV-Quad-GoKart-Motor-DIY-Gear-Reduction-w-Mounting/372801152361?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D229879%26meid%3Db6fa2ed73b484b73a1f08156d86a5ac6%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dco%26sd%3D162575449407%26itm%3D372801152361%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWebWithDarwoV3BBEV2b&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

Please let me know where to order the spokes to mount the 1,000W hub motor to a 700c rim.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

I'd look for motorcycle and moped tires but non come in 26" bicycle wheel size. In that case you'd be better off with disc brakes.
edit - Yes mc rims can come in 1.40 rim widths. Treatlandtv website if your in USA, otherwise its to expensive to ship. Other bet is used motorcycle/moped shops, I found one by me on ebay and has shop, otherwise Kimpex catalogue from dealership, there are two other catalogues your dealership parts guy will know.

If you want to stick with bicycle rims, you need a good quality rim. Alex DM24 is a good one, not sure if it comes in 700C. Find someplace local that reams and cuts spoke to length, otherwise its the usual places. www.ebikes.ca in Vancouver Canada to deliver, Danscomp in the USA somewhere (probably Cali, or Texas), there is a guy on Vancouver Isle thats into ebikes and sells spokes. The shortest spoke I found are 182mm in length from places like Chain Reaction Cycle, JensonUSA and Modernbike.

 

[DrkAngel]

.
... OMG!

There is no "split" or "crack" in the rim!
The "joint" is the normal connection of the curved extruded aluminum "rail", the method that most all rims are made.

Carefully check your other wheels, you will find similar "splits" on all, except electronically welded steel and the rare cast aluminum.

IMPORTANT!
Check spoke hole size to ensure enough room for nipples to angle with spokes without bend stress!

 

[DAND214]

DA beat me to it. The seam or split is normally opposite the air stem hole.
Cheapest is Danscomp.com and they are Indiana. Cheap and quick. the problem is not all rims are the same EDR, so getting spokes is not that easy. I could be wrong on Danscomp, can't find the spoke section. I know I had to call to make my orders which were a few years ago now.

Slow down LC, on the Hubmonter or what ever. Your gonna need extra strong torque arms or even more than the bike frame and torque arms for that kinda power.

Dan

 

[latecurtis]

The seam or split is normally opposite the air stem hole.

Yea. I checked both rims. The one the hub motor is in and the rim I was going to use. Both have the split opposite of the stem hole.
It looks like the guy at the bike shop don't know what he is doing. The rim has a high spot though. I knew it as the bike shook riding it. I tried truing it and the guy at the shop said truing would not work. I figured that but was hoping it could still be fixed.

The 800 watt 20" hub motor probably needs to be trued. It shook the bike also but when I put it on the rear of the 20" Turbo it still shakes the bike but is not nearly as noticeable on the back. I guess I could try it with the 26" rim. I doubt I will ever buy a front hub motor again for that reason. What ever you hit or run over the front wheel takes the brunt of the blow. A rear hub motor is so much better than a front anyway as better traction and definitely safer on any slippery surface.

I kind of like the old expression " If it is not broken do not fix it" The guy at the bike shop must have been new. He had a great attitude and was eager to work on my e bikes. He took off a cassette and put a freewheel on a 26" rim for the Clear Creek Schwinn I put the #25 - 80 tooth sprocket on that I gave to John.

If it is a little bent I could still probably ride it on the back. No possible chance of a pedal gear though. That is not really necessary here though. I run the 20" Turbo all over the place with the 800 watt front 20" hub motor on the back. I guess I will pull the cover and try to shrink wrap the wire that the insulation is damaged and then throw it on the back of the 26" dual suspension. Then see how it runs. I might just as well drive it if it don't shake too bad. I really do not need two 1,000 watt hub motors around here. Not that many steep hills.

I have stuff at the post office today. I bought a camera at Wall-Mart to shoot a video of the 1,800 watt brushless motor in action. I still have not took the camera out of the box. I am hoping it will hook up th the computer like the little Cannon did so I can do the you tube videos like I used to do.

Thanks guys for letting me know about those rims. If I get a video going I will post it. The only thing I might need to do with the 1,800 watt motor build is adjust the rear wheel so there is just a little slack in the chain. But only if you all think it is necessary. If I do not need to I would rather not mess with the chain as I know it is not coming off. I am just concerned about the motor sprocket. I can always order a couple extra motor sprockets but don't want it failing 10 miles from my house.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

I actually ran into an issue where manufacturers website stated a EDR while Grintech listed different. From an email, Grin actually measures all of their rims and it ended up to be correct when I purchased from them. Manufacturer website may have been an older version of same model.

edit - Doing a little computer file cleanup.
Spokes - Bristol, BS2 9YW England - https://www.spokesfromryan.com/
Spokes - BC Isle guy Victoria, BC Canada - https://www.spokeservice.ca/shop/category/spokes
Spokes - Włoszczowa, Poland EU - https://www.e-spokes.eu/k2,e-bike.html

...

 

[latecurtis]

As the Hub Motor Turns and the LiPo Fire Burns. Brakes and pipe dreams. :lol:

Pipe dream.





I was not happy the camera did not come with a memory card. I guess I can't record any video without one. I know it has a mode to use as a web cam but I am looking to take video onboard and in a parking lot. My main concern is the motor sprocket on the 1,800 watt brushless motor.

I will get the memory card tomorrow or Wednesday as there is no big rush as I dropped off the bike with the 1,800W bushless motor and 1,500W controller. There are like two or 3 Ernies bike shops around here and was headed for the closest one in North Canton but my GPS brought me to a different one a little farther away in Massillon.

They were not really busy but said they wanted to take their time with it especially when I said I might hook up 60V LiPo batteries to go 40 mph. The bike shop was larger than the one I was at in North Canton and the guy I talked to was older and looked more experienced than the guy that told me the rim on the 1,000W hub motor was cracked.

I told him the whole story and asked him if it was possible to fix a high spot and he said " If it is just a hop in the wheel I may be able to fix it good enough. I said I was going to run it on the rear of the 26" dual suspension and he said the width is different but with a few extra washers it is possible. I told him about the 800W 20" front hub motor on the back of the 20" turbo. He did say though that disk may not work. I might do what I did on the currie and run a disk plus a V brake on the front.

I will be bringing the 1,000W hub motor in when I go to pick up the bike they are working on now. I will see if they can throw a pedal chain on it also. The V brake on the Currie needs repair also but did not have the front wheel hooked up so will have that done also.I also need a disk caliper hooked up on the back of the Giant Roam. It looks like this month is Brake month for LC. I also got a good quality tube for the new Continental Ride Tour 700c tire I picked up at the post office today. The 22Ah SLA was also there.

I will be very happy if I do not have to re lace the wheel on the 1,000W hub motor and can hook it up on the back of the 26" dual suspension. That leaves the Haro V3. I did not order the custom sprocket yet. I might still order the custom 80 tooth sprocket but am thinking about putting the 500 watt 24V Unite motor on the front of the Haro V3. It is similar to the 20" dual chain drive bike I built before before I uninstalled them and installed the 1,800W brushless motor.

Total power will be 1,200W. 750 rear + 500 front and average gearing around 31 mph. I bet nobody ever thought of bolting a chain drive motor to that. :lol: (see both bottom pics. below)

It would make perfect sense to parallel all 4 of the old LiPos for 6S - 24 - 22V for the 24V - 500W motor on the front and use the old 10S - 10P Lithium ion pack for the rear motor. It is a better way to go than killing the old LiPo packs trying to go 40 mph with the 1,800W brushless motor. I will need a 60V 2,500W brushless controller and 16S - LiPos anyway so that can wait.

I have one question. Should I run a fuse and switch between the 22 Ah SLA battery and the 400W Mega LiPo charger when I charge those old LiPo packs in the van ?.

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[latecurtis]

Will the Hub Motor ever turn again and when will the LiPo Fire Burn.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QA2qQkexj2g

It was the absolute hardest thing I ever did since I started building e bikes. 4 out of 8 bolts stripped and vice grips were useless. I had to hack saw them and prying the cover off with a hammer handle , large file handles and then 1 by 2s. It was a 6 hour battle and my hand has a battle scar when I tried using an old pair of wire strippers to get a bolt out. I was so mad I wanted to wail on it with a sledge hammer and throw it out a third story window. So much for a stress free environment in my e bike work shop.

The worst possible thing any mechanic can experience is a stripped bolt. I had four to deal with and had to hack saw all the way thru 2 to get them out. I got the other two using a screw driver and hammer after I cut thru the case and wedged a screw driver in and wailed on the bolts with a hammer. It was a long about 8 hour battle. I took a few breaks , watched a little TV and put away a few beers.

I just wanted to repair the motor wires. There is damage from something I did years ago. I know there is such a thing as tap and die. There is special tools for stripped bolts as was a motor head in 80s and 90s. However I do not own those tools and work on things in the middle of the night when nothing is open. I also wanted to see what the inside of a hub motor looks like first hand. I had more than one brushed chain drives apart and probably close to a dozen times put back together and ran it. I never did a hub motor before tonight.

Obviously I need to get my new camera working tomorrow. The pics I took with my 13 buck flip phone of the wire damage are not very clear. I was just going to use silicone or hot glue to fix the wires but thought I might be sorry later if I did. I really want to repair with solder and shrink wrap. I want the wires perfect. Not damaged. I hope I can get this thing back together after I do.

Thanks.

LC. out.

.

 

[DAND214]

The wires don't appear to be cut only the covering. I wouldn't solder them as they become stiff and won't bend if needed. Shrink them and that is what I would do if the wires aren't cut. Shrink wrap can be your best friend.

Dan

 

[latecurtis]

The wires don't appear to be cut only the covering. I wouldn't solder them as they become stiff and won't bend if needed. Shrink them and that is what I would do if the wires aren't cut. Shrink wrap can be your best friend.

Yes I agree but do not know how to get shrink wrap around the wires without cutting the shrink wrap and I never had any luck doing that. I also want to take more details pics. I am not going to rush this. Obviously the cover is a little bent up. I will need to replace the bolts that broke with some other bolts.

I am amazed how there are so few moving parts inside. A very simple design. I just wish they made it simple and easy to pull apart. I feel like I was wrestling with a giant metal battle robot all night, I just rolled out of bed now. I defiantly am either taking a break or on light duty a few days. I might work on east street and the Giant roam. I have to mount the controller and put the new tire on then mount the front motor. It is still on Easy street. I have two brand new control arms for it. Yea . Easy stuff.

Please let me know how I can shrink wrap that as only had luck with shrink wrap if I did NOT have to cut the shrink tube to get it around the wire.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

Yeah those wires are pretty tame in the damage department. Depending on where the minimal damage was on the wire compared to the location on the axle there are different things you can do. If visible with motor intact, snip off phase and shove a good quality heat shrink as far into the axle as you can and use flame to shrink it. Do one layer to all three, then go back and try to shove in a 2nd layer as far as you can, allowing it to cool down on every phase wire. There are various qualities and thicknesses of heat shrink, the cheapest will do if double or triple layer, but again the damage on your phase wires are minimal.

I like to route the wires coming off the axle to a loop, fastening to seat stay or chain stay. I then like to have the wires coming out the axle and facing to the rear of the bike. The brake disc bolts can sometimes be in the way, or reduce the amount of space so if your using V-brakes you can remove the bolts.

 

[DAND214]

I think they make shrink tape but have never seen or tried looking for it.

It appears that I won't be riding till next year. Gonna see surgeon next Tuesday. Hope says I'm doing better sooner than later. I can't even go in my pool till next year? I sure miss my 50 mile bike rides. Haven't been on my bike in months now, it sucks.

Dan

 

[latecurtis]

It appears that I won't be riding till next year. Gonna see surgeon next Tuesday. Hope says I'm doing better sooner than later. I can't even go in my pool till next year? I sure miss my 50 mile bike rides. Haven't been on my bike in months now, it sucks.

Yes. That really sucks. Hopefully you can at least drive a car to get around. I have the van when I need it. Especially good for rain and freezing temperatures You probably will rarely see me drive a gas vehicle in the days when the sun is out and it is above freezing unless I have to haul something big.

Depending on where the minimal damage was on the wire compared to the location on the axle there are different things you can do.

Very close to the axle. To properly repair them I need to pull the wires back into the motor. I will have to strip the plastic casing so the wires fit and the wires coming out of the axle will be shorter but that don't matter. I am thinking about having a bike shop do it. I just called the shop that fixed my brakes and the 20" bike with the 1,800W motor and controller is done and got both brakes working for 32 bucks with tax. I really can't beat that.

It feels great that I finally have a little help mechanically. You guys help me a lot with proven methods , experience and positive motivation and helping me see reality sometimes because I can get way out there but sometimes I need mechanical skills which I lack. That is where a bike shop comes in.

The guy I talked to said he has been in business 16 years but mainly sells bikes already built but said to bring the hub motor in and he would look at it. I can always go to electric bike Pete's if they can't do the job. If the repair is minimal cost I will pay to have it done. At least the money is going to feed a family and stimulate the economy. These guys at bike shops don't have as much work in the winter as the spring and summer. I may even help to keep someone from having to go on unemployment.

I am still ordering a soldering iron and extra tips but if it can wait until next month it would be better as am probably over my 200 buck a month e bike budget

If the cost of labor is too high like close to 100 bucks I will wait. Get a soldering iron and do it my self. My big question is I am not sure how the case goes back on and is there a place where I can order a new cover. It is bent up. I am sure I could get it back together but how does the mechanics work. Is the cover part of what turns the motor ? Will it even work again ? If a new cover and bolts are less than 30 bucks it could be worth ordering.

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

Not sure about shrink tape, never seen it and how would it curl or somewhat seal.

Epoxy may work if you dab a bit on the damaged area and it holds, though it wouldn't flex much but thats not really a concern as the wire doesnt move but you'd want to have the rigid epoxy set up so the wire is in the right direction.

All I've seen is liquid electrical tape.

I have seen thick wall heat shrink that costs about 3 to 4x then normal heat shrink.

I purchased PTFE Teflon wire before, it was real tough, but even that could have insulation damage.

You may want to take a grinder or file to the sharp edges of the axle exit hole.

 

[latecurtis]

I am no longer worried about the wires. I can solder them if I can get my hands on a iron above 30 watts that will melt solder. On my way to Auto Zone. I know they have shrink tubes. Not sure about an iron. I might need to go to Harbor Freight tomorrow. I need the heavy duty #420 chain breaker they have there anyway. I guess I may as well walk to Wall-Mart and pick up the SD memory card for my new camera so I can shoot video again.

I am just not sure if I need a new cover for the motor or if I can use that and get it back on. It was most difficult to remove. Any feedback on that will be appreciated.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[markz]

Covers can be cumbersome to take off and put back on because when taking off the cover plate it can sometimes scrape the wires when using a puller and not paying attention. Putting a cover on, is just snaking the wires through the hole and making sure the wires dont bunch together underneath the cover. Hold the wires up, and shove the cover down. Also be sure that the wires inside the motor are zip tied out of the way otherwise insulation can be scraped off the while rotating without you even knowing about it. Its just an exercise in patience and being meticulous.

edit - I also like to clock the cover plate so its reinstalled the same way it was taken off. I little scrape is all.

 

[latecurtis]

I soldered it and put electric tape on the sensor wires but when I tried putting it back together The black and green hall sensor wire got cut. The soldering went well otherwise as the iron got hot and the motor wires were soldered good. I used flux and the iron was so hot it melted the solder by putting the tip under the wire and the solder on the top. I got the iron at Auto Zone. It is only 30 watt and told the guy if it would melt solder I would buy it and he plugged one in just like it he used in the store and in less than 5 minutes he melted solder.


There is not enough room to fix the black wire as there are three going to one and it came disconnected. I could fix the green sensor wire but not the black as there are three going to one like the red and no way without removing the back cover. I tried one bolt and it stripped. I spent about 6 hours getting the bolts out of the front last night and am not going thru that again. It is not worth it. I was hack sawing that thing at least 6 hours.

I have two choices.

1.) Throw it in the dumpster and order a rear hub motor.

2.) Find a way to remove the 8 bolts that hold the back cover on and solder the wires. If I were to do that I might as well order new covers and install a new axle to make it a rear drive hub motor.

I could use the experience. If I were to accomplish that I could even rebuild old hub motors. After all there are very few moving parts. I would learn where the wires solder to the copper windings and could solder all brand new wires. I could even use those skills to maybe get a job and get off of disability.

I think it is worth a shot. What else do I have to do but learn a skill. I only needed 14 credits in the community college to get an associates degree back in 06. Only reason I did not finish was My wife got hit by a car and needed to rehab. I was working a full time job. I did not get disability back then so we moved from Schenectady NY to Kingston NY and I went to work construction down there so she could be close to her sons wife awhile me and her son went to work.

A studio was 750 a month and the nearest college was too far to walk. It took me about 6 months to get a car. I was also working 10 and 12 hour days construction. I moved back to Schenectady a year later after she recovered as the construction company went out of business and I took my old dish wash job back. I defaulted on the student loans and could not go back and finish.

Where can I order a new cover and axle to make it a rear hub motor ? What tool is required to pull the axle and where do I order it. I would like to learn every thing there is to know about hub motors.

I guess if there was a way to get those bolts out of the rear cover I could fix it. There is no way I will use a hack saw to cut thru the cover to get to the bolts. I need a better option.

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.


5:26 AM.





I see how to do it but involves removing the cover on the other side. No way I am dealing with those bolts. I did manage to solder the three black wires to one wire but it broke again trying to get it together.

Those pictures show how to do it. It has to be done from the other side with the cover part way on. It would be simple to push the wires thru from the back. I am not dealing with the back cover though. Once was enough removing those bolts. Unless someone knows an easier way to remove the bolts I am throwing it in the dumpster tomorrow.

In fact if there were a place to order a brand new wiring harness I could just feed it thru from the top and solder all the wires on the other side where the old wires are soldered. But that still involves removing the cover on the other side.

Let me know if it is possible to order a new wiring harness and how to remove the bolts without hack sawing each one. Also if there is a way to replace the axle and order a new cover for the other side so I can convert it to a rear hub motor. It might cost 100 bucks but the experience I would gain by doing it could be worth many times that much. After all I have four running e bikes.
I am not doing this because I need a fifth e bike. I am only one person. I am doing this to learn.

Please let me know.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DAND214]

Forget the conversion to a rear motor. You need to know who built the motor since they are not all the same.
Are the bolts/screws Philips head or hex? A hammer impact screw driver does wonder on most cover screws. I'm rather H.F. has them.

To change the axle you might need a press or maybe not. Grin sells wire harness by the meter if you really wanna rewire it. You can just push the hub out of the magnet ring by just pushing on the wheel with your weight. Problem is when you put it back you really have to be careful as the magnets snap it back in. Fingers are really important to kkeep them out of the way or you with cut or break them.

Shrink tape https://www.amazon.com/inch-feet-Bl...e+wrap&qid=1605707390&sr=8-18&tag=googhydr-20 just one of many I see.

Save your money on the conversion and BUY a rear hub at the correct size. not as important IF you have disc brakes.

As for driving because I had major surgery and can't ride my bike. I haven't driven since 1983 when I lost most of my vision and can't pass the eye test. Yes I could drive but not legally! I still believe I could drive better than half of the Floridian down here but I sure won't try it as they are nuts. 70 in a 45mph limit and more. My wife is doing 10 over to keep up with most traffic and we see cars/trucks passing us at least 20mph faster. They are really nuts down here and in most cases there are no cops out to do anything about it. Until there is an accident!

Dan

SAVE YOU MONEY!

 

[latecurtis]

I might invest in a quality tap and die set at Harbor freight. I need to go there. They have a #40 chain breaker also. The thing I do not like about the factory wiring in this motor is the lack of protection for the wires. They should be inside something to protect them from damage. Not sure how many wires in a telephone cable. Not much protection but at least can keep all the sensor wires together.

Problem was wires separating and getting cut putting the cover back on. Not enough room.I know the wires are about the same size. I need 5. What would be perfect if there was room would be a steel sheath that is flexible with all the ridges. I can picture it in my mind but can not put words to it, Electrical conduit maybe. Used to run AC in walls. I used to work as construction helper. All 8 wires , motor and sensor should be in that with the end glued to protect the wires from the sharp edges at the end of the conduit.

I really wish there was a way to do something like that. Perhaps if the axle were slightly larger. It just makes sense to protect the wires as the sensor wires are very thin and insulation is only a plastic coating basically. I probably could have got away with running it the way it was but probably would have had a short if I rode it in the rain.

I know I am right about feeding the wires down into the motor from the top and soldering them on the other side or the bottom of the motor , the wire axle on top. As far as separating the inner and outer magnets I do not see any point in any of that. I just need to remove the bottom cover. I have two broken bolts on the wire side cover now. Not sure if a tap and die could take them out as they are small bolts.

Frankly the bolts that hold the covers down are the biggest problem with this hub motor. It is a huge issue for me. The soldering is actually one of the easiest parts. I soldered a lot of wires last night and the solder seemed to flow great and was a good strong even flow and connections.

I also learned a lot about hub motors taking it apart. I do think hub motors are the future of EV as they are even making them for cars these days. In less than 10 years if humanity still even exists by then ordering a couple hub motors for a car or motor vehicle for a quick conversion might just be as simple as changing a flat tire and computer module to convert. Rich folk may even convert all four wheels for computer controlled all wheel drive. Wheels will come in different sizes and power levels. probably 50 horsepower up to 200 a wheel or who knows. It all depends on battery technology.

Unfortunately I will have to put this hub project on a back burner for now. I have many e bikes to work on and build. I am really not in a big hurry to go out and spend a bunch of money on a hub motor or chain drive for that matter. The way things are going I may want to invest in an illegal firearm for protection. Alex Jones and other right wingers are talking about a second civil war. Also about 100 thousand people a day are getting sick. It may be a good time to apply for a passport to Canada.

I think I can still collect disability from the USA in Canada. Probably not the United Kingdom or Australia though. it is doubtful there will be a US much longer. It will be a DS. Divided States not United. Trump is a problem and the other guy is just a senile old man. There is not much hope at all that I see. A mandatory vaccination will probably result in a war with at least 100,000 people a day dying from gunshot wounds or high explosives on top of the 10,000 or so that will die from COVID. I predict about 24 months of Martial law and a 50% reduction in American population before the civil war is over.

Thanks.

LC. out.

 

[DAND214]

before you get a gun, be sure you can get the ammo. Guns are plentiful but ammo is mostly cone. I think I only have about 1500 rounds right now. Used a lot at the gun range practicing :lol:

I hope you are wrong but am ready to protect my Wife and me as needed!

Dan