jbalat
10 kW
Wineglass firstly well done but how do you constantly push 600w ? The most I can do on the flat is about 450w at around 40km/hr and that’s only for a short time since I normally ride at around 30km/hr
If you're referring to the heat dissipation, I think _if_ I've managed to get better dissipation than others have seen it's because there's a heat path with very few interfaces (stator -> thin copper plate -> thick aluminium plate -> cover) and particularly because the way I angle-ground the aluminium ring to be a quite close fit to the cover means there's quite good thermal coupling and not too much thickness of goop impeding the heat flow. Also as I said above, there's quite a bit of heatsinking on the case because before that I was seeing the case get quite hot so the heat was making its way to the case but wasn't shedding that to ambient with the limited area of the case.jbalat said:Wineglass firstly well done but how do you constantly push 600w ? The most I can do on the flat is about 450w at around 40km/hr and that’s only for a short time since I normally ride at around 30km/hr
Thanks, I refered to the description of your temperature modification in the temperature control topicWineglass said:....I think _if_ I've managed to get better dissipation than others have seen it's because there's a heat path with very few interfaces (stator -> thin copper plate -> thick aluminium plate -> cover) .....
Many thanks for this answer, it helped me to see that I made a mistake and I am going to clarify.Elinx said:I have tried to understand what you want, but for what I see is that you want to use a throttle cable for a brake cable.
Imho with the 2pin connection, gnd in that case is missing.
Throttle is +5V and throttle input and the brake is a gnd and brake input.
I haven't experience with these connections, but this is what I think could be the problem.
imho the brakesensors working outside XH18, so this is not from importance.jmp said:....
Is it an easy mean to know if the wiring is correct, checking any of the menus on the XH18 ?
Thanks again for your answer. I will do a few tests. But if anyone has the wiring description of the 3 pins of the 1T2 cable it will help, because, as I described, I measured the voltage and I have 4.3V volts between pins 2 and 1, and 3.2V between pins 2 and 3, and nearly no voltage between 1 and 3 (0.1V). So I tried to connect 1 and 3, but I hesitate for the 2 other combinations as it seems it will bring to the GND a non-zero voltage...Elinx said:....
The brakesensor is normally an open connection and when pull the brake the input wil shorted to GND.
Only way to check is if the motor rotates or not. If the connection is swapped the motor will not run.
jmp said:Thanks again for your answer. I will do a few tests. But if anyone has the wiring description of the 3 pins of the 1T2 cable it will help, because, as I described, I measured the voltage and I have 4.3V volts between pins 2 and 1, and 3.2V between pins 2 and 3, and nearly no voltage between 1 and 3 (0.1V). So I tried to connect 1 and 3, but I hesitate for the 2 other combinations as it seems it will bring to the GND a non-zero voltage...
Moreover if the brake sensor is normally open when you don't use the brakes, how does the firmware makes the difference between a brake sensor not closed and no brake sensor connected ? Because my aim is actually to enable the cruise assist mode...
Dudarus1 said:good evening
hopefully someone can help before i buy a new display.
i recently decided to give open source firmware a go on my tsdz2 however i have had problems flashing my 850c display. i have all the cables from eco cycles the problem is it flashes says its successful but will not power on. i cant seem to find a copy of the stock firmware for the 850c to flash back to stock i did however find maxicolour850c firmware so i flashed that and the display turns on, i have tried osf display refuses to work.
is there any thing i can try before i purchases a new display
thanks in advance Jake
Indeed your help is really precious, Thanks a lot to both of you !ilu said:...
You may find the proper wire from the 6 wire cable going to the display, but you need to solder that and a ground wire to a connector or directly to the brake sensor.
See herejmp said:.....
So my last step is to activate the cruise assist mode. With my XH18 display, how do I activate this mode, ....
Huguenot said:Greetings all.
My wife's cargo trike is still at OSF 6.3. It's buggy, but we have learned to live with it. Usually works fine, sometimes we have to restart 5-6 times to avoid a whine/growl. Once we get it running quietly it will behave all day.
Recently it has added the annoying habit of the odometer resetting to 188.1 miles. It had been over 500 before. The trip meter works, and the odo increases in step with it, but when we power off and on again the trip resets like it should but the odo always returns to 188.1.
Anyone have any ideas?
Yes, I know -it's past time to upgrade to 1.0/1.1. I have the cables but no PC (we are Mac based) and am way more of a machinist/fabricator than a software guy anyway.
Is there someone the Palo Alto-San Jose California area willing to upgrade this thing for me? Beer, cash, machine work, whatever.
Thanks -Paul
BunnyMan69 said:20.1c using a VLCD6 ...I thought by default the 2 figures are soc% and volts ...
......
If I turn lights on I get readings. It displayed this first 99.9-88.9.....
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What do these number mean
Here you find some more infoHeisenberg60 said:.....
Where is the PAS-sensor in this kit and how does it work ?
Every controller is exactly the same. As you said number of pin's could be differentHeisenberg60 said:.....order a new controller, are there any differences between them beside the voltage and the number of pin's ?
I've seen some offers which were just labeld with the voltage but without the power output.
Manbeer said:just wrapping up another conversion on a marin hybrid
having really good luck with the marins, the internal routing makes for a super clean setup and they have pretty good stock on a lot of them at citygrounds a a few other retailers
jmp said:Many thanks for this answer, it helped me to see that I made a mistake and I am going to clarify.Elinx said:I have tried to understand what you want, but for what I see is that you want to use a throttle cable for a brake cable.
Imho with the 2pin connection, gnd in that case is missing.
Throttle is +5V and throttle input and the brake is a gnd and brake input.
I haven't experience with these connections, but this is what I think could be the problem.
The 1T2 cable is not a splitter from 8 PINS to 6 PINS + 2 PINS but to 6 PINS (LCD) + 3 PINS.
The Bafang Y Splitter cable is a 3 PIN cable but I probably didn't connect the 3 PINS correctly as there was a notch and I had to break it because the 1T2 cable didn't have the slot to fit in. So I assume that I should try to identify the right pins and that my previous wiring was wrong.
I measured the voltage at the 3 pins coming from the controller and, if I name them 1, 2 and 3, connecting the "+" cable of my voltmeter on pin number 2, I measured 4.3V volts with pin 1 and 3.2V with pin 3, and nearly no voltage between 1 and 3 (0.1V).
Regarding the 3 pins of the magnetic sensors, only 2 of them seems to be used. I will name them 5 and 6. they are connected when the magnet is close to the cable and disconnected when it is far.
I connected pins 5 and 6 of the sensor cable to pins 1 and 3 of the controller cable.
But I don't see any visible change.
Is it an easy mean to know if the wiring is correct, checking any of the menus on the XH18 ?