That's strange. "Closed" does mean Brake 4 shortened to GND 8, so check if there is a connection to GNDChristiaan said:.....
But based on your feedback I also tried with a closed circuit but that does not change or influence the failure mode.
That's strange. "Closed" does mean Brake 4 shortened to GND 8, so check if there is a connection to GNDChristiaan said:.....
But based on your feedback I also tried with a closed circuit but that does not change or influence the failure mode.
Elinx said:That's strange. "Closed" does mean Brake 4 shortened to GND 8, so check if there is a connection to GNDChristiaan said:.....
But based on your feedback I also tried with a closed circuit but that does not change or influence the failure mode.
[/quote]skestans said:sysrq said:Looks like finally devoped some thin crack in the plastic cover above the pinion gear due to friction caused by chainring. Probably one of the solutions is to move the chainring outwards by a millimeter and glue some piece of plastic above the crack.
Another option would be plastic welding.
J-B Weld PlasticBonder is said to be slightly more flexible.
Or maybe just use some oil resistant silicone adhesive from the other side, so that in case it falls of it won't damage anything compared to epoxy.
I would get a replacement cover. They don’t cost much (I think I paid 15$ delivered for mine on aliexpress) and then you don’t have to worry about whether the plastic is properly fixed or whether water/grime will seep into the main gear chamber.
nbdriver said:spiked said:Is think this is what you're looking for?
https://github.com/hurzhurz/tsdz2/blob/master/programming.md
That was exactly what i was looking for, thank you. Motor with new firmware up and running.
RST will not be used for flashing the controllerriscpower said:....
Do i need RST?
...
Christiaan said:Hi There,
A beginner question.
Just flashed the latest firmware in the motor and sw display.
I was trying it out and I get the following messages after powering on.
It first say Wait tsdz2 and then e: brakes
What does e: brakes mean?
Is this normal or am I doing something wrong?
D451387D-4FA9-4391-B08E-8092D39B82E5.jpeg
E0087311-DF96-4F8C-989B-5F9863316618.jpeg
771C474F-D9EC-44A1-85E6-8F3B267FCEA7.jpeg
raylo32 said:Did you get this sorted? If you recall I had the same issue with 2 separate controllers and finally figured it out. You need to program the option byte tab first and THEN flash the program memory tab and the update will take. The wiki sort of talks about this but really not in enough detail. I did it 2 ways... first I just read the option byte tab and then programmed it. I also went to Eco-bikes to the archive (https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1eGcBtTj8GrGQ4tDJAECr6ejMrpW2ZqvH) and got the default OEM option byte file and flashed that. In both cases I flashed the program memory immediately thereafter and the updates took. Man, I wasted so much time on this... See the couple of posts previous to this.
Christiaan said:Hi There,
A beginner question.
Just flashed the latest firmware in the motor and sw display.
I was trying it out and I get the following messages after powering on.
It first say Wait tsdz2 and then e: brakes
What does e: brakes mean?
Is this normal or am I doing something wrong?
D451387D-4FA9-4391-B08E-8092D39B82E5.jpeg
E0087311-DF96-4F8C-989B-5F9863316618.jpeg
771C474F-D9EC-44A1-85E6-8F3B267FCEA7.jpeg
Elinx said:RST will not be used for flashing the controllerriscpower said:....
Do i need RST?
...
You only need to connect SWM/GND/Vcc
Maybe for 4pin SFM DU250 you find some info
riscpower said:Hi,
i have the same motor with 4 pin connection (SFM DU250). I think left is GND / right is SWIM.
I tried two different progammers but it will not work to read out the data.
Is there any special trick to do?
Do i need RST?
I powered on the motor.
Thanks
Manbeer said:Beatdown run on wifes hybrid. Max assist the whole way, probably 200-250w of human input on upright hybrid that was too small for me.
Was testing with tiny aliexpress 2a13p battery that is a knockoff of the ones electrify/bicycle motor works sell.
She is not that athletic so i figure the extra 100-150w i put in over her should be more than offset by the added wind resistance of 22mph vs the 16 or 17 she may average
I was trying to assess thermal capability as well as battery life under worst case conditions
Started the ride fully charged, ended at 46.5 V so just under half.
Supposedly battery is 9.6 amp hours, According to my calculations I averaged right around 13w/mi so i would say the cells are genuine ncr21700t
Figuring in the real world, she should be able to get 25 to 30 miles out of it at moderate speeds
Motor was pretty warm but not hot to the touch. Battery just slightly warm
FE211630-4F7C-4574-B81A-E0F49E21313C.png
hetm4n said:riscpower said:Hi,
i have the same motor with 4 pin connection (SFM DU250). I think left is GND / right is SWIM.
I tried two different progammers but it will not work to read out the data.
Is there any special trick to do?
Do i need RST?
I powered on the motor.
Thanks
I had a separate programming cable with the 4-pin version, hidden under the cover on the rack side.
![]()
Manbeer said:Motor was pretty warm but not hot to the touch. Battery just slightly warm
FE211630-4F7C-4574-B81A-E0F49E21313C.png
Retrorockit said:Manbeer said:Motor was pretty warm but not hot to the touch. Battery just slightly warm
FE211630-4F7C-4574-B81A-E0F49E21313C.png
The COVER was warm, the motor itself is much hotter. If you do the cooling mods the heat will move from the motor to the cover. Then it can be dissipated to the air stream. It's actually better if the cover gets hot (with the cooling mods in place).
raylo32 said:Do you have any of the hardware cooling modes and/or a temp sensor on it? The case seeming to be just "warm" is deceiving since there is an air gap. If I ride mine where it makes even just 200-300 motor watts it goes from 21C to 75C in about 5 minutes. Any harder than that and it exceeds 80C in no time. You are probably cooking your motor.
Manbeer said:Beatdown run on wifes hybrid. Max assist the whole way, probably 200-250w of human input on upright hybrid that was too small for me.
Was testing with tiny aliexpress 2a13p battery that is a knockoff of the ones electrify/bicycle motor works sell.
She is not that athletic so i figure the extra 100-150w i put in over her should be more than offset by the added wind resistance of 22mph vs the 16 or 17 she may average
I was trying to assess thermal capability as well as battery life under worst case conditions
Started the ride fully charged, ended at 46.5 V so just under half.
Supposedly battery is 9.6 amp hours, According to my calculations I averaged right around 13w/mi so i would say the cells are genuine ncr21700t
Figuring in the real world, she should be able to get 25 to 30 miles out of it at moderate speeds
Motor was pretty warm but not hot to the touch. Battery just slightly warm
FE211630-4F7C-4574-B81A-E0F49E21313C.png
beemac said:Manbeer said:The stock chainline makes me want to puke as a bike mechanic. for now I think I am going to take a 10 speed cassette and remove the two largest gears until I can figure out something better
On my main bike (converted rockhopper '05 hardtail) I use two 'solid e-bike' 10mm offset chainrings; 50t/42t - 42t inside the spider, 50t outside. This allows me to shift with a standard front mech and I even had to file a tiny bit off the chainstay to stop the larger chainring rubbing on it so the line can't be much better really for chainring size...
https://www.eco-ebike.com/products/42t-chain-ring-for-tsdz2-narrow-wide-10mm-offset-110-bcd-solid-e-bike
https://www.eco-ebike.com/products/50t-narrow-wide-solid-e-bike-chain-ring
Obviously not cheap - esp with duty/shipping from US to UK. There is a company in Italy that makes similar ones in red too.
sysrq said:beemac said:https://www.eco-ebike.com/products/42t-chain-ring-for-tsdz2-narrow-wide-10mm-offset-110-bcd-solid-e-bike
https://www.eco-ebike.com/products/50t-narrow-wide-solid-e-bike-chain-ring
Obviously not cheap - esp with duty/shipping from US to UK. There is a company in Italy that makes similar ones in red too.
How can 10mm offset chainring work if there is only a 1mm gap between chain and plastic cable entry cover when the original 5mm offset chainring is used?
The plastic cable entry cover is quite thick so it can be replaced by a thinner one I guess.
Not sure if 10mm offset chainring could be a solution to stop the friction and wear on the plastic pinion gear cover or not.
Haven't seen any close up pictures with 10mm offset chainring mounted.
beemac said:sysrq said:beemac said:https://www.eco-ebike.com/products/42t-chain-ring-for-tsdz2-narrow-wide-10mm-offset-110-bcd-solid-e-bike
https://www.eco-ebike.com/products/50t-narrow-wide-solid-e-bike-chain-ring
Obviously not cheap - esp with duty/shipping from US to UK. There is a company in Italy that makes similar ones in red too.
How can 10mm offset chainring work if there is only a 1mm gap between chain and plastic cable entry cover when the original 5mm offset chainring is used?
The plastic cable entry cover is quite thick so it can be replaced by a thinner one I guess.
Not sure if 10mm offset chainring could be a solution to stop the friction and wear on the plastic pinion gear cover or not.
Haven't seen any close up pictures with 10mm offset chainring mounted.
because the offset wraps around the motor body. Wouldn't work with smaller chainrings - look at the images on eco-bike site - you can see the offset.
sysrq said:beemac said:sysrq said:beemac said:https://www.eco-ebike.com/products/42t-chain-ring-for-tsdz2-narrow-wide-10mm-offset-110-bcd-solid-e-bike
https://www.eco-ebike.com/products/50t-narrow-wide-solid-e-bike-chain-ring
Obviously not cheap - esp with duty/shipping from US to UK. There is a company in Italy that makes similar ones in red too.
How can 10mm offset chainring work if there is only a 1mm gap between chain and plastic cable entry cover when the original 5mm offset chainring is used?
The plastic cable entry cover is quite thick so it can be replaced by a thinner one I guess.
Not sure if 10mm offset chainring could be a solution to stop the friction and wear on the plastic pinion gear cover or not.
Haven't seen any close up pictures with 10mm offset chainring mounted.
because the offset wraps around the motor body. Wouldn't work with smaller chainrings - look at the images on eco-bike site - you can see the offset.
How is that possible for 42t chainring?