OVERCLOCKING an ANCHEER 20 inch folding ebike (Model AM001908 36V20" 250W)

[Matador]

Just got my Ancheer eBike out today. I had battery stored at 38.1V since february. Now charging it for a ride right around lunch time.
But it got me wondering... The original battery, does the "BMS" actually balances cells....

So I remembered I had taken pictures in the past of the battery internals:
It's written "SP-R13-068-A01-M10SY-8185/1709080380" on mine.

From what I read, the "BMS" from the original "in frame" battery is from "Shenzen SuperPower Technology, Co. LTD",
Model: SP-R13-068-A01-M10SY

So I found pictures on a russian websites that look like the same thing (though labeled SP-R13-068-A01-M10SY)
The website ( https://el-vel.com.ua/p843133566-bms-36v-10s.html ), onced google translated, gives the following specs:


I could not find the Original Specification Datasheet from the BMS manufacturer, but I find something really close, which is the 13S (48V) version of this "BMS" called model SP-R13-068-A03.1 : http://www.sz-supower.com.cn/en/products_1.html
Here is the full PDF datasheet of the 13S version of the SP-R13-068-A03.1 "BMS" (could not find the 10S version): View attachment SP-R13-068-A03.1.pdf
And here are some more pics of this 13S version, which is exactely the same dimensions, excep just 3mm more width:

Bottom line is, from what I can read from the "BMS datasheet", this "BMS" is more just a protective PCB circuit (protects against overcharge and undercharge), but it does NOT individually balance cells. So once in a while (every once a year or so) it would be advisable to balance each 4P cell row manually, otherwise when only one of the 4P string out of the 10S 4P strings get out of whak in voltage relative to the other remaining 9 4P groups, either the low voltage cutoff voltage or high voltage cuttof would kick in when discharging or charging respectively, resulting in a less then optimal overall battery capacity in both cases...
Just thought it would be worth noting... Not a real balancing BMS, just a over/undercharge protective circuit here.

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[Matador]

Ah that ride felt goood ! 22.0 km (36V 8.0Ah battery) --> From 41.7V to 37.3 V (resting voltage). LVC at 31.5V... Did peddle a bunch though (between PAS High, PAS med and a bit of PAS Low... Last 5 km on throttle only).

Matador

 

[docw009]

Looking at the 13S spec, you can see that the whole balance section on the specs is blank. Have come to the conclusion that it is unsual for a inexpensive battery to have a balance BMS.

I have noticed that on batteries where I replaced the BMS with balancing models, that the battery will take about 40ma after it stops charging. That's your typical balance drain.,

 

[Matador]

What a fantastic project and record of what you done.
I have only just bought an Ancheer bike and it looks as if they are still using the same controller etc.
Just wondering if as well has having more speed you also get more pulling power to get you up hills. I have a 26" wheel 250W hub, 36V 8AH battery Ancheer and looking to put a 48V battery on it.
Rgards
Keith

Hey Keith, glad I could help with documenting the internals of the Ancheer bike!
I feel like finding about all this and documenting it here can help future users of this bike to fix it if anything breaks and modify it if they want more performance.
Overvolting like I did (from 36V nominal to 52V nominal) does increase top speed a lot (from 27 kph to 37-38kph), but the acceleration remains exactly the same. For higher torque/acceleration, one would need a controller with higher amps rating, for example, a 25A controller (the stock controller is 15A peak/7.5A continuous). From my experience with my Ancheer, motor and controller stay cool with overvolting. However if you increase amps (either by swapping for higher amps controller, or doing a shunt mod to the stock controller), you probably run the risk of overheating/frying the copper windings of the motor, or mealting/"peanut buttering" the nylon planetary gears.

Matador

 

[Matador]

Went for a ride with my 440 Whr 14S custom battery. Took 65-70 mins to do 29 km (averaging 25km). From full charge (58.8V), battery voltage after trip was at 48.7V. So I used up 374 Wh for 29 km on gravel road, which amounts for 13 Wh/km. Not bad on gravel roads. Could have gone faster on average, but there was lots of sharp turns !

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[Matador]

With this custom 14S battery I made:

Not the stock 10S battery that comes in the downtube:

 

[park1]

Hi - Charger light turns green within 5 min but the new Ancheer battery actually does not charge. Seems the manufacturer stopped making the battery. Any charging, repair or replacement suggestion ? Thanks

 

[Matador]

I would first check the voltage of each cell groups. Make sure all are sitting at the same voltage. If not, balance charge every cell group to the same voltage. The Ancheer battery actually is not equipped with a balancing BMS (just a dumb protective PCB for low voltage cutoff, hig voltage cutoff and overcurrent protection), so over time, cell are very likely to get off balance. Manually rebalancing the cells could likely solve your problem, unless some cells are damaged (then you'd need to replace them). Worst of all, you could alway recell your battery casing with new quality brand cells (this is an in-tube/in-frame battery).

Curious, how many cycles does your battery have (gross estimate)??

 

[Balmorhea]

Anyway, the bike is cheap but works and the battery, hub and controller are rather inconspicuous, so "sort of stealthy".
[...]
Here's my question :]How much can I safely overclock the system and how would you do it ?]

Switch to a 48V or 52V battery. That will adversely impact your stealth, because it won't fit inside the frame anymore unless you go to heroic lengths to duplicate the form factor of the original poopoo battery. Either put it in a backpack, or in a rack trunk or pannier. Use inconspicuous black zip cord instead of red/black that makes you look like a mad bomber. Black Powerpole plugs, or heat shrink some black tubing over XT60 connectors.

The controller will probably be fine. If not, replace it-- it's very cheap to do so.

 

[Matador]

Anyway, the bike is cheap but works and the battery, hub and controller are rather inconspicuous, so "sort of stealthy".
[...]
Here's my question :]How much can I safely overclock the system and how would you do it ?]

Switch to a 48V or 52V battery. That will adversely impact your stealth, because it won't fit inside the frame anymore unless you go to heroic lengths to duplicate the form factor of the original poopoo battery. Either put it in a backpack, or in a rack trunk or pannier. Use inconspicuous black zip cord instead of red/black that makes you look like a mad bomber. Black Powerpole plugs, or heat shrink some black tubing over XT60 connectors.

The controller will probably be fine. If not, replace it-- it's very cheap to do so.

I have two batteries for this bike now:
1) The original in-frame 10S4P (top speed 27-28 km/h).
2) A backpack 14S4P pack I built (top speed 37 km/h).

Not planning to re-cell my original stock in-frame battery until the day it dies. (Could fit a 13S3P in there though if I ever feel the need for it). But I must say 37km/h on this bike is quite fast. I'm more comfortable riding 30-32 km/h on it, unless it's a straight line on a dedicated bike path (lots of empty spaces to ride where I'm currently located).