Please help identify my controller

[law_of_ohms]

Hi,

I've tried to go thru everything already I could see in *** Controller Information Links *** and google.

I think this is a KU type controller, my guess is a KU123, or a clone of one. its different than the ku123 at the bottom of :- http://www.avdweb.nl/solar-bike/electronics/ku63-motor-controller.html


If anyone can tell me what this is, and most of all how to change the voltage from 36v to higher, if tried a few combinations of the big resistors, the tracks look like the resistors are in parallel.

 

[TheBeastie]

Is this controller brand new? it looks like from that photo where 3 resistors are suppose to be on the KU123 have been removed and bizarrely? they have taken 2 of the resistors and put them in series I am guessing by doing that its increasing the total resistance to the LVC sensor so that the LVC is maybe setup for a 24volt battery.

If you got a battery with BMS I wouldn't worry about it the battery will cut off when it needs to.

I looked into changing my LVC on my KU123 but I couldn't be bothered so I can't say I know exactly what to do.
If you post a larger detailed photo of those two chunky resistors that appear to be soldered dodgily in series it would help a bit.

 

[d8veh]

Why do you you think it's a 36v one. It has a jumper marked 60v, which implies it's a 48v one with the jumper to set the correct LVC for 60v.

You don't need to mess about with those big resistors. Put them back how they were. What voltage do you want to run it at? What's the voltage rating of the main input capacitors?

 

[d8veh]

I just worked out the voltage dividing circuit for the LVC sensing. Without the jumper connected, the two resistors are 24K and 2K4, which gives a dividing ratio of 0.101. The jumper brings a 7K5 in parallel with the 2K7 to take that side down to an equivalent 2K, so the new dividing ratio is 0.083. Those two values are in the ratio of 48 to 60, so I'm pretty sure it's a 48v controller with the option to run it at 60v.

 

[law_of_ohms]

its 36v, and thats me fiddling with the big resistors.

If I run more then 11S it will not work, it turns on but no action from the trottle.
h
60v is doable, do i just bridge the two contacts?

It must have a high voltage cutout

 

[d8veh]

It looks a lot like a standard Kunteng controller. I've never heard of one that has over-voltage cut-off. Most likely, it's got automatic battery voltage detection, and it's getting confused at 12S. Did you try 13S?

Those three resistors are used to sense the actual battery voltage. They normally cut the battery voltage down to about 2.5v to 3.0v at LVC. That's then fed through a protection resistor to the CPU. If you bridge those two pads, it changes what the CPU sees, so it will see 60v as 48v.

You didn't answer the question about the capacitors!

 

[law_of_ohms]

63v on the caps,

 

[law_of_ohms]

it does look like:-

http://www.szktdz.com/en/news_show.php?article_id=352


I'll power it up with my PSU that should adjust up to atleast 54v

 

[d8veh]

63v caps means 48v max. I've used 16S on one before with no problems.

 

[law_of_ohms]

this high voltage cut out is pissing me off.

I tried ~60v, no luck, the full to empty indicators on the throttle work fine, its just the motor wont spin.

I tried bridging the contacts on the marked "60v" nothing changed, still wont operate, and works fine @ 36v .

Maybe i should just buy a new controller... http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=16605 ???

Atleast it has given me time to play with my rim, I think i have it trued to 0.5mm, but this is the first time i have ever trued a bike rim.

[youtube]C-yEgpLKFfI[/youtube]

 

[Ferreira]

I modified my 9-FET 48V 22A controller, which looks different but not too much different from yours, to make it work with 72V by doing the following:

I exchanged the 9 FETs by 100V types.
I exchanged four 63V capacitors by 100V ones.

Three of the 63V capacitors were 470uF between battery + and battery -.
The fourth 63V capacitor was 47uF between battery + and I don't remember what.

The original 48V battery + input went to three of the 9 FETs and to the four mentioned capacitors. It also went to 2 more orange small probably 100nF capacitors. Then it also went to two wires and to some other (to me unknown) part of the whole circuit. I separated the said wires and the latter part of the circuit and connected them to a separate 48V input. I now use not 4x12V SLA batteries but 6x12V SLA batteries. But the 72V only reach three of the FETs and the four plus two capacitors. All the rest of the controller which originally had battery + now does not have the new increased 72V but still the original 48V.

In my case this works.

 

[law_of_ohms]

Well,

I've about given up of this one, I tried bridging the "-S, 0, +S" bridge the 0 and +S in the hope for more speed.

Smoke came out... lol, still works kinda,

Totally lost all torque, in a stab in the dark fix, I un-soldered the bridged "60V" pads, seems to of come back to life. But I guess something is fried somewhere so dont trust it.

I am so confused as to what controller to get.

I'm thinking a Lyen.
18 FET Low RDS MOSFET Overclocker Ready LYEN Controller $199

(if there are any left)

Here is what I want / like about it

72V (tick)
Speed selector (tick)
65A (tick)

I would like to go ~40-50kmh.

If this what I should go for?