mxlemming said:
Very nice build. Only comment would be that the blue film might not be enough to stop breaking through to the metal on the battery. I'd err towards some rigid plastic in select places.
This thing should be easy more powerful than the original.
Few questions...
The original controller. Can you flash different firmware e.g. One of the ebics firmwares to it? What MCU is it? Looks like there are lots of board variants.
What are the wheel motors? That FSESC controller might be capable of melting them.
Old post, I know.
Ha! You ain't kidding about some insulation with a DIY pack on this exact scooter. I just lost six cells from a short that pierced what I thought was adequate insulation (some nylon insulating fish paper-like material, several layers of Kapton sheet/tape then several layers of (ready for this... duct tape!). Vibration took its toll, I ran over a good size bump, immediately felt a loss of torque but the controller was still working. In the back of my mind I suspected some cells were shorting because the controller was functioning fine but low voltage was kicking in, I had to keep riding I was on a busy overpass, no tools to remove the battery cover, better to keep booking then walk and risk a meltdown/chain reaction so didn't stop to inspect, instead, I tried to make it back ASAP. Luckily I wasn't far from where I park my work truck, I diverted to there. Rode there with smoke venting from the scooter handlebars! Broke out the impact driver and security tork bit. Hurridly removed a dozen or so screws. Of course, one just had to cam out, no time to extract so I just wiggled back and forth until the cover was free. I ripped the battery packs out(two 7s6p packs with balance taps) One parallel set of 6 cells was cooked, they vented, electrolyte spewed everywhere. used a utility knife to open the insulation and separated the cooked cells. The rest of the cells were actually fine, all measured 3.65 V after settling to room temp. I had 6 new cells, thought about replacing just the shorted cells, My ICharger IR guesstimate showed no diff in parallel sets and IR was just as before the incident but to err on the side of caution I decided to replace the cells adjacent to the shorted cells because they had to get toasty. So I went from 14s6p to 13s6p. I found some thin G10 sheet that was used as insulation in some switchgear, cut it to size to insulate bare metal in battery comp. I should of known better, Im an electrician, have access to proper insulating materials but I never intended this to be permanent. A testbed to properly tune the FS 75/100 FOC using new Panasonic 10A 3200mah ICR18650bd cells. Great performance but I'm going to replace it with Molicell P42s.
I saw a while back in the 75/100 thread that You were the first to figure out that filters needed to be disabled. Now there's a "warm tip" about filters on FSs website, go figure.
I'm using the 75/100 FOC V2 with 5.3 FW that Jake(jaykup) sent me to try. At first I could barely make it up a hill with setting that the FOC wizard gave me. 800W should be more than enough but most of it was being spent heating up the windings. Now after lowering erpm, raising duty cycle, and raising current for the FOC parameters I'm getting 1600-1700W constant over 2kw peaks. Power is definitely being turned into work. 40A field weakening. I'm getting 30mph on flat stretches and maxed at 45mph on some short low-grade hills. The motor is warm but not hot after aggressive rides. The Controller temp is the same.