Programming the Bafang Middrive BBS01+BBS02

[DaDo.Bzz]

I did some experiments with params and this are my findings.

What is important is Designated Assist param for Pedal and Throtle assist. It will override Basic tab params including speed limit (doesnt matter what PASS you select on display) Then it takes current and speed limit param from the row you selected in Designated Assist field.

So best is to leave Basic and Pedal assist on default. If you need quicker response to pedalling lower Startup degree ( min 2, does not work on 1) and Time of stop ( I set it to 10=100ms).

To have full power for throttle on each PASS change Designated assist to 9, Mode:Current, Start up current: 3% (to have 3% power on begining of thrtotle) Speed limit: By display

Better to set lover Designated assist, not to go still on full power as you can overheat motor and FETs, So change it to 6 (73% of max power) and set on Basic tab for Assist 6 speed limit 100 to get full speed. When you select 5 mode PASS level on LCD row 6 is never chosen as then it takes rows 0,1,3,5,7,9 from basic tab for Pedal assist.

Speed limit is limit of max rpm of crank, not the param max speed set on display.

 

[jpo]

Hi All
I'm having a minor problem with my bbs02.
It occasionally cuts out for couple seconds. This often happens after the ebrakes cut power. Instead of the power coming back on quickly there is a 2-3 second delay. After a couple of pedal rotations the power comes back on. There is no error code and I have in checked and double checked the brake switch. This problem happens on 2 of my bikes. One of them I am using stock haul sensor ebrake switches and the other I am using an after market reed switch. I should add that the ebrake switch is not on the shifter, not on the brakes, so I do not stop pedaling. The problem is totally intermittent.
Any ideas?
thanks
Joe

 

[cycborg]

Well, I was with you until you said “intermittent”. The 2-3 second delay sounds typical after the brake is engaged, and no one has found a way to reduce this, either with the straightforward settings or in the programming. But if it this is something that doesn’t always happen when you brake, or if it happens at other times, then it must be something else.

The only intermittency problem I’ve had wasn’t actually with the BBS02 unit, but with a poorly soldered connector from the battery, so without other information the best I can suggest is that you double-check all your connections.

 

[jpo]

Yes it is intermittent.
The strange thing about this is that I experience the exact same problem on 2 different bikes and it seems like the controller is "confused" and does not know what to do for just a second. I can never get it to happen on a test ride. It only seems to happen after an hour or so of riding. The response is very similar to when then system cuts power (briefly) at low voltage, but the battery still has plenty of charge and there is no indication on the consul of low voltage. When the battery is low and the lvc does kick in at the battery indicator flashes.

 

[tomjasz]

Well I found my error and had a bad connection. The virtual windows xp recognizes the Prolific device but does not connect with the controller. What should the setting be in for the port? Should I be changing the default settings? Searching the thread for my problem, hoping for some trouble shooting advice.

 

[tomjasz]

Is XP a bomb for using this software?

 

[nioko]

Well I found my error and had a bad connection. The virtual windows xp recognizes the Prolific device but does not connect with the controller. What should the setting be in for the port? Should I be changing the default settings? Searching the thread for my problem, hoping for some trouble shooting advice.

You should be able to see the com port assigned to the profilic device within devicec manager.
You hit start, Run, enter devmgmt.msc - This will open the device manager.
Expand "Ports (COM & LPT)
You should be able to see the profilic Device + its assigned Port.

 

[tomjasz]

yes no problem and the program shows the correct port but dies not make the connection

 

[nioko]

These Settings are usually ignored, you could set it higher (Bits per second), but I'm pretty sure that it does not have any effect.

As for the Baud rate, I don't remember what rate I've been using in the Bafang software, maybe someone can confirm the 1200, but seems pretty low to me.
Are you sure you did the connections right? Battery installed?

 

[tomjasz]

Yes, someone indicated XP may not be compatible. It recognizes the device and indicates it is communicating. Wired exactly like pexio in this thread. grn to grn, wht to wht, blck to blck, Orange and brown to each other, red unused. Battery is good both units run.

 

[nioko]

I don't see any reason for XP to not work.

Do you have the exact same components as Pexio? Colors on the USB /Serial adapters are not standardized, so this could be the problem.
Black is most likely GND, if you have a multimeter, you could check if Black goes to the Metal part of the USB connector (Continuity tester).
If so, I would try switching the data lines, Green/White.

 

[tomjasz]

Thanks, I just found a reference to someone else remarking they had a to do just that. I'll bet that's the solution. My IT tells me there's no other reason for XP to not work as well.

Thanks for the time!

 

[astmacca]

[I don't see any reason for XP to not work.]

Xp works. I use that on an old laptop to program mine.

 

[tomjasz]

Yeah it works fine. I made the mistake of wiring green to green and white to white. Green to white, and white to green and all is well!! XP s fine. Rocking' it on my Mac, finally! Today someone offered me a new Windoze 7 notebook. Now I can quite farting around and have a OS dedicated to the backwards world of eBike software and utilities. <wink>

 

[nioko]

Thanks, I just found a reference to someone else remarking they had a to do just that. I'll bet that's the solution. My IT tells me there's no other reason for XP to not work as well.

Thanks for the time!

You're welcome, glad to hear that you got it working .

 

[Xdoom]

Good Morning,
I have a Bafang BBS02 [SZZ9] 500w 36V.
These parameters read from the engine:


I have read that i can program it with no problems using the software used for the SZZ6.
It 'correct? Can I reprogramming without problems?

Thank you

Greetings

Xdoom

 

[Jakeme]

Hello!

Could somebody with more experience enlighten me about reprogramming my Bafang BBS01 mid drive 250W 36V kit. I get that motor next week and I have planning to do reprogramming with these settings.

Basic

Limited Current(A) = 15

PAS0 0/0
PAS1 10/100
PAS2 20/100
PAS3 30/100
PAS4 40/100
PAS5 50/100
PAS6 60/100
PAS7 70/100
PAS8 85/100
PAS9 100/100

Pedal Assist

Speed limited = By Display's Commad
Keep current = about 70-80

Other settings I'm intend to leave as it is for now.

So what will happen with these settings?

A) Can my motor handle these settings? If I drive long periods PAS9 and speed limit is set for example 30-35 km/h, could this fry my motor/controller? I'm intend to pedal always at the same time

B) Keep current. Does this mean that when RPM is reaching the top, assist will drop from 100% to 70% ?
Bb) What is max RPM? is it 83+-5 (from the manual). Is this changing when I make these adjustments?

 

[tahustvedt]

So what will happen with these settings?

A) Can my motor handle these settings? If I drive long periods PAS9 and speed limit is set for example 30-35 km/h, could this fry my motor/controller? I'm intend to pedal always at the same time

B) Keep current. Does this mean that when RPM is reaching the top, assist will drop from 100% to 70% ?
Bb) What is max RPM? is it 83+-5 (from the manual). Is this changing when I make these adjustments?

Those settings should work fine. You'll not be speed limited by lower assist levels and will be able to adjust the torque by changing the assist level. 15A is what my BBS01 250W was set to stock. Try it out in stock form first though.

I believe keep current sets how fast the motor spins before it starts reducing assist. That's how mine seems to behave. The stock on mine was set to 20%. 100% gives full available assist all the way to the top speed without rolling off. I think I have mine at 50 or 60% now because a too high setting responds too strongly to pedal input for my liking and riding style.

Max RPM should be battery voltage dependent. It should not change because of those settings.

 

[astmacca]

B) Keep current. Does this mean that when RPM is reaching the top, assist will drop from 100% to 70% ?

From previous discussions this thread, seems that this at 100% works well. Its a bit unclear how it works, but its though it determines the rpm at which the motor starts to back off the power before it cuts out due to rpm.

Bb) What is max RPM? is it 83+-5 (from the manual). Is this changing when I make these adjustments?

It actually cadence. how fast the front sprocket turns under power. I have a 500W / 18Amp BBS02 and it maxes out at 120. That wont change.

What will change is at what rpm the motor cuts out. You have all your PAS "speeds" set to 100% so the motor will run until cadence exceeds 100% (85 rpm for you).

I have played around a lot with the programming and have now settled on what you have for PAS level settings, Tried running PAS with less than 100% speed settings for a few weeks but there is actually not a lot of benefit. I now find myself using lower PAS levels more often (PAS 2-4) and almost never going over that unless i am in a hurry to get home.

Of course warranty is generally void on the controllers if you play with programming, but i think thats fair enough.

The general thrust of a lot of the discussions on the programming / reliability / cooking controllers issues was that you should make sure that you DO use the appropriate gear (particularly starting off), and make sure you dont bog it down. Ive now got 3130km on mine @ about 140km a week. I dont baby it, but i am careful to use the gears and its still going well, AND i get good battery life with about 80km out of an 11aH battery given the way i pedal.

 

[jpo]

Can anyone advise on where to tap a power supply for a head and tail light?
The latest bafang bbso2 has a photo cell on the display that automatically turns on the back light and in theory turns on the head and tail lights when it's dark. Does anyone know where to find the power supply?
Thanks
Joe

 

[dumbass]

B) Keep current. Does this mean that when RPM is reaching the top, assist will drop from 100% to 70% ?

It actually cadence. how fast the front sprocket turns under power. I have a 500W / 18Amp BBS02 and it maxes out at 120. That wont change.

The general thrust of a lot of the discussions on the programming / reliability / cooking controllers issues was that you should make sure that you DO use the appropriate gear (particularly starting off), and make sure you dont bog it down. Ive now got 3130km on mine @ about 140km a week. I dont baby it, but i am careful to use the gears and its still going well, AND i get good battery life with about 80km out of an 11aH battery given the way i pedal.

I'm not sure the 48v 500w has as big a controller problem as the 48v 750w. My "so called" 750w (48v) had a 20a controller and it lasted 1 block. Granted I screwed up and started from a dead stop in top gear (7th). But friends that have tested rode my bike normally don't even try checking the gears. So it's been unintentionally done the same way on the 48v 500w with no problem. So why the big problem on the 750w when the 2 motors were mounted on the same bikes? I can see 3 differences in the 500w versing the 750w. 1, of course the 750w has a higher amp controller (anywhere from 20a to 25a), 2, the motor wires are heavier gauge on the 750w and 3, the crank sprocket is 2 teeth smaller on the 500w so the gearing is slightly reduced. Of course many people have reported they had their 25a controllers detuned to 20a or even lower and still blown them. I no very little about the inner workings of the controllers. But I have to think there is more difference between the 500w and 750w controllers then meets the eye. Ether in the way they are designed or in the way they are programed. Lets face it even the newly designed controllers are still having problems.

No question we should all start and use our gearing correctly. But what about a direct drive hub motor. There's no way everyone peddles before engaging their motors. And that's got to be a lot harder on the motor and controller then starting this system in the wrong gear.

Bob

 

[eMax]

Can anyone advise on where to tap a power supply for a head and tail light?
The latest bafang bbso2 has a photo cell on the display that automatically turns on the back light and in theory turns on the head and tail lights when it's dark. Does anyone know where to find the power supply?
Thanks
Joe

Tap into power at battery / motor connection. GRIN Technologies Anderson tap is one such product.

 

[tahustvedt]

I bet some extra capacitors in parallel with the input wires would reduce the chance of a failure. The controller is so compact that I doubt there is much voltage spike protection in there. The capacitors need to be mounted as close to the controller as possible.

 

[Gab]

I have seen people reporting the BBs02 peddles are so far out that they have knee problems ?

Hence how wide is the BBs02 bottom bracket ? and are the cranks straight or offset out ?

Hence are the peddles sitting further out then other mid drive kits ? like the GNG or AFT ?

 

[tahustvedt]

I have seen people reporting the BBs02 peddles are so far out that they have knee problems ?

Hence how wide is the BBs02 bottom bracket ? and are the cranks straight or offset out ?

Hence are the peddles sitting further out then other mid drive kits ? like the GNG or AFT ?

The Q-factor (lateral distance between the crank arms) is very large with the BBS0* cranks. In addition, the centerline between the crank arms is offset to the right by ~10 mm (if I remember correctly. It's a long time since I measured). I use a thread extender on the left arm to center them.

The included crank arms are about as straight as they can be without the ankle hitting the crankshaft. I tried replacing them with other arms that I thought had less offset, but it didn't make a difference.

I don't know whether they cause knee problems or not.