tahustvedt
10 kW
ErikDK said:
My BBS01 250 W will not let me input higher cutoff volotages than 32 V.
Programming the Bafang Middrive BBS01+BBS02
- Thread starter crossbreak
- Start date
My BBS01 250 W will not let me input higher cutoff volotages than 32 V.
tomjasz
1 GW
I'm still learning and can't fathom why you'd want to?tahustvedt said:
Thanks!
Tom
Kepler
10 MW
tahustvedt said:
Unfortunately it's a firmware restriction. The 48v version will only let you go to 43v.
tahustvedt
10 kW
tomjasz said:
It would be useful to set a higher cutoff voltage when using higher voltage batteries. 32 V means 3.2 V per cell in a 10 cell pack, but in an 11 cell pack it means 2.9 V/cell, which is a bit low if you're using lipo batteries.
It's not a problem if you use the recommended voltage battery.
tomjasz
1 GW
Thanks, that makes sense now.
So much to learn...
So much to learn...
teslanv said:You will need to enter the COMM port ID in the software. Look for the Breakout Board hardware in the "Ports" Section of the Device Manager. Mine Was identified as "COM7"
Then, in the controllerst software, type in COM7 (or whatever port yours is) - The software should then be able to communicate with your PC.
Click "Connect" and you should be up and running.
I was desperate and tried to find other drivers etc, because no Com ports came up to chose from. Until I found this post and wrote COM7 in the blank field. All other programs I know that use serial interfaces list the available COM ports by themselves.
First I connected the green, white and black cable to the same colors of the Bafang extension cable, but I had to switch the white and green. So it's white to green and green to white, black to black and orange and brown connected on the Bafang extension cable.
mclark999
100 W
Does anyone in Denver have a programming cable that I could borrow? I just got my drive today and the connector I ordered hasn't arrived yet.
tomjasz
1 GW
I keep hoping someone will manufacture a proper cable. I have my parts, just not a very clean setup.
mclark999
100 W
tomjasz said:
I'm fine making a cable if anyone has a reliable source for the male plug. Anyone?
If not, I may just remove the controller plugs and replace them with something readily available. I'd rather not have to splice that in, but if I need to, I will.
tahustvedt
10 kW
It's quite easy to make a connector that fits on the large main connector on the motor. I used 1 mm copper wire (any solderable metal will do) for the pins, and a short piece of 10 mm id brass tubing that fit around the connector from the motor unit. Then I stuffed it full of hot glue and let it cool before I pulled it apart. It didn't stick to the connector, but formed a nice male connector. Care needs to be taken when soldering the pins so they don't melt the hot glue, or they can be soldered before glueing. 
maxwell92036
100 W
- Joined
- Dec 13, 2011
- Messages
- 132
It seems like there are a lot of failures with the clutch mechanism in the internal nylon gear. I noticed there is a
PAS screen that allows you to change PAS settings. Is there a way to program the controller to take sudden loads off the nylon gear clutch mechanism so it lasts longer?
Or do people feel the size of the clutch mechanism is not up to the task??
PAS screen that allows you to change PAS settings. Is there a way to program the controller to take sudden loads off the nylon gear clutch mechanism so it lasts longer?
Or do people feel the size of the clutch mechanism is not up to the task??
tomjasz
1 GW
I notice that if I don't start out with assist, in high gear, and just hit the throttle I get some grabbing noises. Perhaps the "dreaded clicking"? Using PAS not a sound. Lower 2-3 gears it's quiet too regardless of the start. I do have a spare gear in my kit. Seemed the sensible backup part to have.
amigafan2003
1 kW
maxwell92036 said:
Have there been lots of failures?
I've only read about a couple.
maxwell92036
100 W
- Joined
- Dec 13, 2011
- Messages
- 132
Well of the three motors I Purchased all developed the clicking noise so I am batting 1000!
Legrand fixed the one I got from him and I ordered the parts to fix the other two.
Great customer service from LeGrand from Lectric Cycles by the way!
Legrand fixed the one I got from him and I ordered the parts to fix the other two.
Great customer service from LeGrand from Lectric Cycles by the way!
teslanv
1 MW
maxwell92036 said:
What parts did LeGrand send for the repair? I fixed mine on my own without any parts - Just some thread-locker.
maxwell92036
100 W
- Joined
- Dec 13, 2011
- Messages
- 132
teslanv said:
I sent the motor to LeGrand and he replaced the white nylon clutch gear. I ordered two more of these gears from another source to replace the ones in my 500 watt motors.
Do you think the problem is the shaft to bearing interface or the clutch in the nylon gear??
teslanv
1 MW
My problem was the O-ring shredded at the shaft to journal bearing connection. I just removed the o-ring remnants and "glued in" the shaft to the bearing with removable thread-locker.
Then greased the hell out of the whole thing. Has worked fine since. My Nylon gear was in perfect condition.
Then greased the hell out of the whole thing. Has worked fine since. My Nylon gear was in perfect condition.
tahustvedt
10 kW
Is it possible to program the BBS01 so that the throttle only works when I'm pedaling? The way it is now I can apply the throttle from a standstill and ride around like a moped, but I want it to operate like a legal bike and use the throttle function as an extra boost in hills.
teslanv
1 MW
Why not just eliminate the throttle all together and bump up the PAS setting when needed?
tahustvedt
10 kW
100% PAS doesn't give as much power as the throttle does. If I apply the throttle in a steep hill it will give me a noticeable boost. I have Assist 9 set to 100% current and 100% speed limit in the Basic settings in the BAfang programming software.
tahustvedt
10 kW
I managed to tune up the PAS now to the same level as the throttle. The "Keep Current(%)" setting was set to 20 in the stock configuration. I hadn't played with it before, but I set it to 100, and now I get full power while pedaling. I did lots of adjustments now and went out to test in a small hill each time I changed something, and this finally worked. Guess I can disconnect the throttle now.
I wish the settings had names that actually described what they do. Some of they are pretty cryptic. Has anyone identified which setting sets how slow one can pedal, or how fast it starts assisting from a start? I tried Changing "Startup Dgree(Signal No)" to 20, which was the highest it would go which seems to delay the startup, but not by much, and then to 1, which was the lowest it would go. Still a bit slow to start as I have to start in a hill outside my house every time and the cadence is too low to trigger the assist.
I wish the settings had names that actually described what they do. Some of they are pretty cryptic. Has anyone identified which setting sets how slow one can pedal, or how fast it starts assisting from a start? I tried Changing "Startup Dgree(Signal No)" to 20, which was the highest it would go which seems to delay the startup, but not by much, and then to 1, which was the lowest it would go. Still a bit slow to start as I have to start in a hill outside my house every time and the cadence is too low to trigger the assist.
pjgold
100 W
tahustvedt said:I managed to tune up the PAS now to the same level as the throttle. The "Keep Current(%)" setting was set to 20 in the stock configuration. I hadn't played with it before, but I set it to 100, and now I get full power while pedaling. I did lots of adjustments now and went out to test in a small hill each time I changed something, and this finally worked. Guess I can disconnect the throttle now.
+1 for the Keep Current 100% this is the key setting is you ride mainly PAS, having the current back off at higher cadence makes no sense at all for a mid drive and you end up with this saw tooth pattern of power as it ramps up and down between each gear. I can see how It works well for a hub drive with fixed gearing though. To be honest I was a bit disappointed with the PAS of the BBS02 until kepler pointed me to this setting. I don't use my throttle at all now and have now set level zero as 1% current and 1% speed and have the throttle set to level 0, this means the throttle just kills the power which makes it perfect for gear changing.
The rest of the 1-9 levels are set to 100w steps.
tahustvedt
10 kW
pjgold said:tahustvedt said:I managed to tune up the PAS now to the same level as the throttle. The "Keep Current(%)" setting was set to 20 in the stock configuration. I hadn't played with it before, but I set it to 100, and now I get full power while pedaling. I did lots of adjustments now and went out to test in a small hill each time I changed something, and this finally worked. Guess I can disconnect the throttle now.
+1 for the Keep Current 100% this is the key setting is you ride mainly PAS, having the current back off at higher cadence makes no sense at all for a mid drive and you end up with this saw tooth pattern of power as it ramps up and down between each gear. I can see how It works well for a hub drive with fixed gearing though. To be honest I was a bit disappointed with the PAS of the BBS02 until kepler pointed me to this setting. I don't use my throttle at all now and have now set level zero as 1% current and 1% speed and have the throttle set to level 0, this means the throttle just kills the power which makes it perfect for gear changing.
The rest of the 1-9 levels are set to 100w steps.
That's a good idea. I'll keep that in mind if I need to make a shift sensor.
I'm searcing ebay for the suitable things with no luck at all. Could someone be kind and give me ebay-links to the things I need to make the connection? I bet there are more people than me who does not want to order things that dont work.
So I guess i'll need the following items:
1 usb to serial converter
Jumper wire of some sort
anything more?
I've got the bbs01 350w...
So I guess i'll need the following items:
1 usb to serial converter
Jumper wire of some sort
anything more?
I've got the bbs01 350w...
mclark999
100 W
Can't tell from reading all the posts. Does pedal cadence have any effect on pas output? If so, which setting adjusts it?
Similar threads
