Qulbix 165/140 Raptor /NYX Carbon - Sabvoton/Adaptto - 20s/22s Build #5

Offroader said:
Thanks Merlin. I was thinking about how these single speed chain tensioners would work because you would need the perfect distance from where the tensioner attaches to the bike to where the freewheel is.

I thought maybe you could move the freewheel a little bit with shims to get it to fit.

The shimano zee derailleur looks really nice. I like the fact that it is short. The problem I am having is I keep hitting my derailleur on rocks and stuff.

I guess a derailleur is the way to go as you can adjust it to fit the chain perfectly. It is also a clutch type which are supposedly the best.

I'm currently in the process of completely renewing my whole chain, chainring, and chain tensioner.
Click to expand...


Thats a valid concern, no doubt you will have to be creative with spacers to get it to line up with the free wheel. I can personally attest that a free wheel extender on a mac with all the tensioner's spacers removed can make the tensioner work. Its what I am running on the home built. Bu you are correct, a regular type derailer with a barrel adjuster does line up perfectly.
 
Hi Merlin,

Could you tell me how you adjusted your chain length and tension when using the Zee derailleur.

Thanks
 
Merlin if you can, could you take a picture of your derailleur attached to your bike. I am curious in what position you have your lower pulley.

My chain is tensioned fine, but I want to have the lower pulley more forward so that it doesn't hit anything and if it does hit anything it will be pushed upwards.

Thank you
 
i will make one...but atm i have another motor on the rear because i have unlaced my cro.
still waiting about 9g spokes and a rim....

2014-08-30%2015.13.32.jpg


its for a week only. no chain no derailleur ...
 
Merlin, you can also consider 10g spokes if you don't want to drill your cromotor. I personally used 9/10g spokes which work perfectly and I have punished my wheel a lot.

Although drilling has enlarged the cromotor holes by a very small amount, maybe .4mm. So it only enlarges it by .1mm at the thin part on the flange which is probably meaningless.

It will require extra work to get these thicker spokes through the hole. You will have to tap them in with a hammer and actually thread them in each hole (for some reason the threaded part doesn't slide through easily) if you drill the hole just big enough to get them through. I would do the job yourself because if you have someone do it they will probably just enlarge the hole very big to make the spokes easy to fit through and it will weaken the flange.
 
i drilled the holes allready to 4,0mm. i dont have any problem on the flange because it is steel. so 4mm was Okay for me. he told me that the spokes where 3,6mm and the thread would be 3,96mm
Problem of all. Iam in Germany and it is near impossible to get what you want (looks so)
10g would fit 4 me, but the guy who make my spokes told me he has and can make me only the 9g ones.
i was happy so i made the deal.
i hope they arrive soon....a 3540 sucks alot in a raptor.........

that is my first wheel build....i hope i get it true and safe ;)
 
Merlin said:
i drilled the holes allready to 4,0mm. i dont have any problem on the flange because it is steel. so 4mm was Okay for me. he told me that the spokes where 3,6mm and the thread would be 3,96mm
Problem of all. Iam in Germany and it is near impossible to get what you want (looks so)
10g would fit 4 me, but the guy who make my spokes told me he has and can make me only the 9g ones.
i was happy so i made the deal.
i hope they arrive soon....a 3540 sucks alot in a raptor.........

that is my first wheel build....i hope i get it true and safe ;)
Click to expand...

Well, I drilled mine to 3.7mm to fit the 3.6mm 9 gauge through. I guess the 10 gauge threads are even larger than the 9 gauge elbows. I never figured threads would be larger than the straight part.

I liked knowing that the elbows were very tight in the holes and didn't move at all.

There is a big company in the UK that makes spokes how you want, I would have used the 9/10 gauge at the most to be honest. 9 gauge straight is way overkill. Actually, I think optimally you would want 10/11 gauge, which you may have been able to order here.

http://www.central-wheel.co.uk/spokes/spokes.html

Who is going to build and tension the wheel? What size rim are you going to use and did you order a Holmes MMP rim?
 
Offroader said:
There is a big company in the UK that makes spokes how you want, I would have used the 9/10 gauge at the most to be honest. 9 gauge straight is way overkill. Actually, I think optimally you would want 10/11 gauge, which you may have been able to order here.

http://www.central-wheel.co.uk/spokes/spokes.html

Who is going to build and tension the wheel? What size rim are you going to use and did you order a Holmes MMP rim?
Click to expand...

thx for that tip...but now its to late.
overkill? yes...for sure. but after i read the weight of your spokes(the difference to normal 12/13g) i dont care if it is 100g less or more.
and yes, 10/11g would be my favorite....to late. i was tired of calling every day some shops i found and explain what i need.

who is going to build and tension?...thats me. thats why i wrote it is my first wheelbuild and hope to get it stable and true.
i go with 19x1,4. the front maybe i change later to the same size. but for now i let the 26 bicycle rim roll.
i ordered a excel rim here in Germany. Holmes and prowheels had no black 19x1.4 rim availabe now.
inlc shipping and tax a prowheel would be more expensive.
the excel is expensive like hell but i tried also rix tip to ask yamaha for an oem rim.
170$ and not a black one....

it is a real expensive journey...but i dont have any other hobbies ;P
i hope the goal is to be happy like you with your wheel.
i want to open the throttle 100% from a dead stop without thinking about to dismount the motor from the wheel.
the new controller peaks out 18KW. i think its alot of stress for rim and spokes. we will see.....maybe its not that kind of overkill(9G) we think :p
 
Some Update:

up to 5,5KW Regen eBrake killed a bunch of spokes.
so i did it also....change to motorcycle spokes and shinko SR241.

6 Hours of Lacing my first Wheel. 3 of them to true the wheel. I drilled the Cromotor Spoke Holes to 4mm.
Spokes i only found in 9g (4mm) Was tired of Searching also.

Rim is an Excel 19x1.4...it was a special order. No way to find another Rim in Black. ProWheels was out of Stock + Shipping to Germany
is near same Expensive. I hope that i never get any Problems with that Wheel/Rim/Spokes.....(now...)

The Wheel is true enough for me....wobbles 1mm in each direction. The Tyre wobbles alot more.
tried it 3 Times to fix that.....No Success. On Driving i dont feel that. But i hate it when i know theres something not that perfect i like....

Bare Motor with Rim has now 13,4Kg
Incl Tire 17Kg (!)....Heavy...Backwheel alone weights same as a complete ebike *lol

[youtube]Ehx5M-PAXQ4[/youtube]

Some Pics:

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2014-09-18%2013.48.55.jpg


IL0A8515.JPG


IL0A8530.JPG


IL0A8539.JPG


IL0A8615.JPG
 
Looks awesome Merlin. Really does. Your rim looks true in the video you posted, if there is some wobble with the tire, its probably because a part of the tire didn't rise up on the bead under inflation. Could this be the case? A little window cleaner or rubbing alcohol, or dish soap mixed with water on the bead will get it to rise. Also, don't be afraid to inflate the tire to 55 PSI to get the bead to rise, once it does, then deflate down to 28 PSI or so. But looking at your video, the noticeable wobble isn't coming from your lace job, its almost perfect.
 
hey rix,
thats exactly what i did. alot of dishwater, pumped up to 5 bar...leave it a few minutes to go in "Place".
go back to 1,5 bar.....tried it 3 times.
proofed if it sits well on the rim........but the tire wobbels sideways a bit.

....but i dont care...had alot of full speed runs. (8kph less with the 19" tyre)
feels good.
also no load speed of 145kph the bike dont "shake"/ feels unbalanced. Its Okay for me. Nice Grip and with 1,5bar it feels also a bit more comfortable on ruff terain.
like it. Lowered a bit the fender. Doesnt look as bad that i thought.
thinking about changing the front also to sr241 ;P
 
Very Nice Build!

Tommy L sends.... \m/ . . \m/
 
I wonder why you have a wobble, probably the truing but who knows. The problem with truing is that the rim isn't exactly flat, also using those tie wraps doesn't allow much precision.

Have you had any spokes loosen yet?

Could you tell me what you mean by this exactly.

"also no load speed of 145kph the bike dont "shake"/ feels unbalanced."
 
hm,
why is a tiewrap not precise? did you see the video? tiewrap is only to see the "difference" of truing.
atm i have no losen spokes after 300km.


with no load speed, i mean the backwheel lifted and full throttle.
"on the way" to full throttle you can check resonance / vibrations. When you dont have any of that, you will never have one under load on track.
i know its not a helicopter that will destroy himself on a certain resonance when something is unbalanced. But i always check no load speed to watch if everythign is allright.

one time this kind of resonance make my rear fender swinging sideways and hit the wheel.....Bad Sound and i was scared for a moment because it was very loud.
i bend it right in a better place and had no more touching the wheel.
(Iam a bit crazy about sounds while riding. I dont like it to hear scratching my brake disc, i dont like to hear a scratch sound from my fender when jumping of a curb and so on.)
 
Merlin said:
hey rix,
thats exactly what i did. alot of dishwater, pumped up to 5 bar...leave it a few minutes to go in "Place".
go back to 1,5 bar.....tried it 3 times.
proofed if it sits well on the rim........but the tire wobbels sideways a bit.

....but i dont care...had alot of full speed runs. (8kph less with the 19" tyre)
feels good.
also no load speed of 145kph the bike dont "shake"/ feels unbalanced. Its Okay for me. Nice Grip and with 1,5bar it feels also a bit more comfortable on ruff terain.
like it. Lowered a bit the fender. Doesnt look as bad that i thought.
thinking about changing the front also to sr241 ;P
Click to expand...

I am so on the fence with a 2.75-19 SR241 on the front. When I ran that on my Bomber, it was awesome off road and traction. Blasting through rocks was more confidence than I had ever experience on something that could be pedaled, but the weight gain on the front was huge, and it handled less lively or more slow. Anyway based on my opinion, I concluded that the offroad performance increase gained by the 19x1.4 rims running the SR241 didn't justify the weight increase on the front.
 
Merlin, what do you think about the raptor 140 vs our 165's?

Do you think you would be happier with a 140? Would you ever consider upgrading the frame?
 
Nope.
I see not the difference for upgrade.
For me it would be a down grade because the controllers are more then 145 mm width.
I had not more space for batteries (heavy enough already)
In real iam searching for a 165er frameset to build another one over the winter to catch a licence plate. :p
Iam pedaling all the time on street (because I buyed this frock in expensive schlumpf)
And I don't have any problems doing that with this 165mm frame.
Ah I remember one improvement. Atm I don't have a problem with my side plate. But the 140 mm frame has nuts on the inside to give the side plate screws more flesh.
I think that's better for the threads.
But who knows what happened. On a crash with lipos when the nuts are close to the battery.

I am happy with 165 mm :)
 
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