Racer X

RWP said:
recumpence said:
Those pulleys would be coming from me. :mrgreen: I have them made to my spec. :wink: Matt
Thanks for specking all this stuff out for us! How much are 72+/- by ½" to 1" bore and a 20 +/- x 10-12 or 3/8" bore pulleys? And where do you suggest I get belts?
Thanks!

Hey Roy! Good to hear from you. :D

I have 80 tooth pulleys in stock, but they are for the torque limiter only. You can get 72 tooth from Stock Drive Producs (SDP/SI). You can also get belts there. I stock 20 tooth 25mm wide pulleys with 3/8 bore. They are $30 each. Oh, I have 25mm wide 100 tooth belts in stock too. They are $36 each.

Matt
 
etard said:
Roy, Good to see you back in the game. I'm interested to see your latest build, is there a thread somewhere?
Hey Dan, sorry I missed you and Thud and all the rest at Grange. However, I am planning, it's months away - who can plan that far out?, to get something together for Grange in April. This time I will get more battery together so I get some track time myself, and hopefully a motor that won't fry. :lol:

I don't have anything new on line yet. I am still fussing with the Cortina - like putting the derailleur system back on the right side and working to get a motor drive on the left. Having trouble with tire to chain clearance on the left but I have not really applied myself to sorting that out. May have to dish the wheel a bit towards the right and give up on a few cassette sprockets on the right...don't know yet.

I am definitely going with the Turnigy 805-85 or 80-100 with a rewind and halls - maybe two of them (3+3=5.5 doesn't it??? ;) <6" dia is OK - right?). :mrgreen: Got to get with Thud to find out the cost...though I am kinda looking forward to doing the rewind myself. I tried one, bollixed it pretty good, and now have to go at it again now that I learned a thing or two. But I need advice on mounting the halls, and about which Leyn controller to get.

I am really excited about making my own FS frame. I think I can do it. I will try to model it first in Alibre...still learning...then fabricate the parts and TIG or braze 'em up. My main dilemma right now is a frame jig. One of my buds suggested I make it out of 2x and plywood as I will probably only be making a few of them... Every time I see pics of a build I also look at what's in the background for any juicy jig bits.

I am also thinking about making a composite frame... Was thinking of fixing the steerer tube, bottom bracket shell, shell for the swing arm pivot in a jig. Making an armature out of CroMo. Foaming all around it, shaping it and glassing it. What do you think? I probably should start a thread for the frames...

etard said:
You may have missed this thread, it has some alternative sources for the same motor. I would suggest ordering one and having it sent to Thud for hall sensor mounting and rewinding. Edit: ( forgot to post link) http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=31019&hilit=80+100+alternative
This motor deal is kind of confusing. I think next time I buy motors I will get the CA120 or RotoMax units for a race build. EDIT - Really not sure what I will get in the future. Have to see what's out there and what seems to be working for people. - /EDIT Really would like a Joby but will have to wait for a suitable controller.
Any way, yes, I am still "in the game." Too many words. Cheers to all, Roy
 
Just did some quick calcs re that belt, the idler wont make any difference if you use a 30 tooth primary pulley. I hope this gets to you before you start putting time into fabing it. There is enough teeth already in mesh.

For the sake of the info - a 30 tooth will give you about 3 times power transfer over a 12 tooth.

The idler, giving max wrap on a 12 tooth will give approx 25% more power transfer than without the idler. Not as much as i thought and only effective on smaller diameter pulleys.

Thought i better clear that up.

D
 
Roy,
The Grange track is a much better surface condition than the Willow Sprimgs track, so I think maybe a "tuned" CF swingarm would be easier and enough to get some good feel around the track. Honestly a 2" travel fork up front should be plenty with a hardtail frame. The last turn before the straight had some rippling, other than that, the rest of the track was great! I am really keen to see your frame build, please if you go this route start a build thread. You definately need to get with Thud on a custom wound motor, IMO it's not worth the trouble to do the wind yourself and then possibly get a shorted phase wire and have to start all over, let him deal with it. :lol:

Danny,
Thanks for running the numbers man, helpful to know. I've decided to slot the motor mount to tension the belt. No idler.

Goped,
I would have liked to use a slightly larger diameter piece in order to get the fully inside the adapter, unfortunately it's the biggest I could fit in my lathe. I'm not at all concerned though, even half the threads would be enough engagement for a solid setup. For aesthetics, I may try a layer of JB weld around the edge while spinning slow and applying heat till it hardens up to not sag.

On a side note, I have a pair of Girvin forks here, begging for an air shock to be fit up and mounted on Racer X. Aren't these designed to avoid brake dive?
 
RWP said:
Hey Matt,
Can you give me a price on the 80t x 25 pulley?
Oh, and do you have those 20" wheels yet?
Roy

Hey Roy,

Sorry, I missed your response on the thread.

Yes, the wheels are in stock. All domestic multiple rim orders have been shipped. Individual rim and oversees orders are shipping next.

The 80 tooth pulley is $58.

Matt
 
I got a little progress done last night, I'm not too happy with the setup, so we will see if it lasts. I decided and try an 8mm shaft system for the jackshaft. It's kinda dainty just looking at it, but I'm working with what I have here, so we will see how it goes. I recently picked up a stock Turnigy 80-85 170KV which I plan to run with my Castle HV110. I hope to have it running this weekend. Things left to do:

1. Sliding motor mount/ jackshaft plate
2. Drill sprocket adapter for disc hub mounting.
3. Prep motor pulley for shaft mounting
4. Rig up #219 chain tensioner and link 2 chains together
5. Lace up rear wheel with new SS hub and wide rim from Matt
6. Weld brake posts on

Ok, all that won't be done this weekend, but I hope to at least get a rear wheel spinning on the bench. Oh yeah, and a big thanks to SoSauty for sending me his spate parts, I will b using a few for this build. :p
 
Got a bit of work done this weekend. I will probably be slowing down a bit as Jay and I will not be able to make it out to the Grange track. :x

I have managed to get the width down less than 5 inches and shouldn't clip ankles on spinny parts (always a bonus). I got the mounting plate done, I just need to finish pressing out the motor shaft and cut the shaft and flatten the drive side for this pulley. Then I can get it mounted. I will probably have to space the plate off the mounts by about 1/2". I'm debating on lacing this wheel with a dish toward the pedal side and attempting a disc brake with Hope Monos. The hub is much wider spoke flange than a cassette hub, so strength shouldn't be an issue. Plus it might actually be easier than mounting brake bosses for rim brakes.

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Damn Dave you be building some wicked crazy Sh### ! A lot better than what you brung to the DR race I went too.. Something wicked this way comes!
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
 
Damn straight man! My Death Race build was some hacked together shit done in my backyard, now I have a legit workshop and nearly every tool I need. I had the DR bike geared wrong but I had that thing running pretty good for about 1/2 a lap! :lol:

Seriously, mad props to any non-hub builders out there that don't have access to machine tools like a lathe and mill, there is no way I could have gotten this far without these two machines. I'm constantly using one or the other.
 
Awesome might need to get you to build me some shit one day!
 
etard said:
Seriously, mad props to any non-hub builders out there that don't have access to machine tools like a lathe and mill, there is no way I could have gotten this far without these two machines. I'm constantly using one or the other.

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The anodized purple piece, is that a stock bearing carrier from a go-kart of some kind?
soz if i missed its description...coming along nicely anyhoot...OH teehehe.. And what a 'gloooorious'
pic of the "soul patch"to EtarD, wearing it well mate....wearing it well :p :mrgreen:

KiM
 
Arlo,
I owe you that, let me know what you need, as long as it's not too complicated and I promise not to ship UPS. :wink:

AJ,
You guessed it man, here it is:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Racing-Go-kart-Bar-stool-1-1-4-Rear-Purple-Wheel-Hubs-/390086637342?pt=Go_Karts&hash=item5ad2f9b71e#ht_705wt_952

I think it's gonna work perfect for this application. After I finish this one, I might make another one that I can swap in or out in less than five minutes. On that one I will put three one-way bearings inside a tube and see if I can't get rid of the freewheel.

On another note, I measured this cable pull cheap disc caliper here ( Walmart special) and was happy that it only has about 13mm width on the backside of the caliper,so I will be treating the disc brake adapter to fit a 180mm disc on it. I am VERY happy to put a disc brake on the back of this bike. :p I also will be ordering up a BB tube and making an eccentric type mount for it to ease chain tensioning issues. I'm also thinking about turning that extra bottom bracket tube into some sort of center stand.
 
etard said:
Arlo,
I owe you that, let me know what you need, as long as it's not too complicated and I promise not to ship UPS. :wink:
You don't owe me anything. Im sure ups will try to send me a second bill as they usually do but I put them on my ignore list lol.
As for when I picked up the power supplies they charged me $28 so not to bad compared to normal. And it was not your fault you were doing me a huge favour so Its all good I really appreciate your efforts.
 
Plenty of room in the triangle for batteries on this bike, but a future build might have me going this way for the Battery capacity:

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As seen here:
http://www.gizmag.com/solid-gray-backpack/20495/picture/147601/

I think you could fit a good amount of batteries and also quickly remove it for battery exchange, or even have two backpacks. :twisted:
 
wineboyrider said:
Dude that backpack is so Ironman looking. Are you sure you don't work for Stark enterprises? :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil: :evil:


HAHA! No, I work for Dork Enterprises! :lol:

A little more progress on the reduction pulley, still have to bore it out for the support bearing that will go behind the freewheel, but I was happy when I found these allen bolts with "shoulders" on them, should work perfect for this application. They also look like they would work perfect as a chain tensioner bolt with a bearing on the axle part.

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Here is the bolt:

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AND I also won a proper toolpost on ebay today for way less than I expected!

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look at all the love you put on that cast motor mount!
whats your plan for that? Glad to see you getting some use out of the old samples box.
 
I was hoping you would see that! Monster sprocket all the way bro!! I already picked up another scrap frame to hack up ala Thud 4 1/2" sparkomatic.

I was thinking about how to keep the freewheel from pulling into the pulley ( kinda need to keep it spaced out so it doesn't interfere) and came uo with a solution: sandwiching a bearing between the freewheel adapter and the pulley. That should keel everything aligned and together at the same time.
 
Hey etard,

Any more progress on this awesome (re)build? And did you ever get the jr Brute going again :?:
Two of my favourite bikes on ES 8)

Simon.
 
Chambers said:
Hey etard,

Any more progress on this awesome (re)build? And did you ever get the jr Brute going again :?:
Two of my favourite bikes on ES 8)

Simon.


Actually yes, I am chipping away at her when I get time. Thanks for the kind complement, I can't take any credit as Thud is really the mastermind behind the curtains pulling all the strings. :lol: The Jr. brute is in the middle of a rebuild and will be a little smaller, lighter and more beautiful than before. I should really get that thing going soon so I can go practice some laps around Grange next month.

Ok, so I had a freewheel adapted to the pulley, wasn't content and wanted to try a sprag bearing from VXB. I decided to the 25mm would fit the bill with 68 n.m. of torque handling, which should be able to handle the 80-100 after a 3:1 reduction. We will see! Here are some pics of the jackshaft. I decided to go with a 1/2" to 3/4" delrin adapter for the #219 drive sprocket just to see if it softens or lasts in the application. I wish metal was this easy to machine! :x

I still need to order up some spokes, then I will have a roller!

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The center part is attached to the shaft with set screws while the inner sprag ring is keyed onto the shaft carrier. The outer ring of the bearing is keyed onto the sprocket mount and also the sprocket. This setup is solid and a bit heavy, I just hope it is balanced! There is the motor plate slotted and ready to go as well.
 
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