Sakura S207 Controller

L

londonlocal

1 mW
Joined
Jun 28, 2013
Messages
13
Hi guys I have been hunting for a controller to replace mine on the Sakura S207 36v 200w scooter without any success. Can anyone plase advice me on a replacement, ideally like for like. I have attached a pic showing the connctions I have. thank for any support.
Uploaded with ImageShack.com
 
Hi
For some reason post I did last night has disappeared so here goes again. Also have need of new controller for s207. Any chance of detailing wire mods you made? And have you got around speedo problem? Have already replaced hall sensors and tried controller from Hercolor but no luck.
Many thanks
Robin
 
Robin Hi. The controller that I purchased, as in the above link, works fine however the speedo does NOT work, Im looking at just getting one from Halfords or ebay :) My initial problem was the throttle, but I didn't know this until after I had blown the controller, Twice. :) What controller did you purchase, if its the same, then I can let you know how I wired mine up. I think it would be worth you checking your throttle. Details can be found on the web or I can let you know how I checked mine, you will need a volt meter..
 
Hi
Thanks for your reply.
Throttle seems to work ok with existing controller its just the stuttering at about half speed that is the problem.
The controller I bought from ebay is;

YIYUN controller compatiable 36V250W and 48V350W Brushless
Model Name : YK85S
Currency limit: 16/13±1A
Short voltage protect :31.5±0.5V 
Duter Size : 32*69*107mm
Throttle : 1-4V
This item fits most electric scooters,electric bikes

I cut the plugs off the existing controller and used a meter and traced wires back to each component then connected each one very carefully after extensive pouring through diagrams and circuits but when I switched on nothing! No response from throttle at all. Put old controller back on after a lot of soldering and shrink tubing and it still works but still with the stutter.
Am prepared to buy another controller if above no good.
Robin
 
Have you checked that you have Power coming from the Switch live (Yellow wire of three block) and this goes to the Thin Red. On mine The switch wire coming from the new controller was a single wire. Have you checked the Brake levers. It may pay you to disconnect them from the controller and see if it works. As the throttle works on your Old controller we can presume that is OK. How I understand the throttle is if Power is going through it when NOT twisted the controller has a safe guard so the scooter doesn't go flying off as soon as you turn the key, like wise with the brakes, if they are operated then the power stops going to the Motor.
I had an absolute nightmare trying to get info for a replacement controller, so was well pleased with the one I purchased and the Guy selling them Spencer, was really helpful. £22.00 for the controller and £7 for the throttle that I ran the cable direct to the controller. The Hall wires Six block you cant go wrong with, The three wires to the Motor Green Blue Yellow, I have read that sometimes you need to swap the Green and Blue, I tried this and the Motor made a strange noise,so put it back as was. The brake lever wires did not plug in to the New controller and I had to move wires around. If you decide to get the same controller as Mine I can send pics of how I have wired mine but as I said the speedo doesn't work..
 
Hi
Thanks for your speedy reply.
As such I didn't check the yellow wire although I did have it connected to the thin red. I didn't connect the brakes at all for testing the new controller and maybe you have given me the clue needed. Maybe the default condition is brake on which would have resulted in no throttle response. I will check this when I can summon up the enthusiasm to cut,unsolder,solder and insulate the various wires again.
I am confident I have the motor wires, hall sensors, power supply correctly wired its just the throttle where it goes wrong. The Sakura controller has a peculiar wiring arrangement in this area. Perhaps its linked to the speedo. I will experiment in tracing back the speedo wires.
On holiday next week but if in the meantime you can find time to post your wiring details picture I would be grateful. It may just give me that eureka moment.
Would be a lot simpler if a straightforward replacement were available.
Robin
 
Will do, have a fantastic break. I did get one responce from another post, that I was hoping was going to lead to the correct controller, however seems not. Have you had your scooter a while and if so have you had issues with the local constabulary? I remember the wires for the brakes didnt make sence to me, They went to Two, Two wired blocks, and I was expecting that placing a meter between the two wire on One of the blocks and pulling the brake lever you would see a LOOP reading on the meter, this was not the case. If I recall, I cut the Four wires from the Two blocks and using the meter worked out which Two wires showed the Loops when pulling the Brake lever and just used these two and wired to the new controller, leaving the othet two wires disconnected, The two wires that were connected worked for both brake levers.
 
Hi
No trouble with constabulary but then we live out in the sticks and rarely see any.
Yes that is the controller thanks for that the chingless is a little different and does give a few more clues. Maybe tachometer lead will work the speedo?
Not sure I completely understand your brake comments but we don't go away until Sunday and I am going to play with the multimeter and see what I can determine .
Robin
 
what I found with the Two connector blocks that come from the brake levers, I was expecting if I put the meter between the two wires that went to one of them and then took it in turn to pull the front brake and then the back brake I would see a Loop on the meter. However this was not the case. What I found was that One wire from one block and one from the other. https://imageshack.com/i/nbx52fj on mine it was the Grey wire from one block connector and the White from the other. If i put the meter across these two and pulled either of the brake levers it would show a loop. I have no idea what the other wires are for, ??
nbx52fj
 
Hi
One step forward I am pretty sure tachometer connection mentioned in the link you gave me equates to the speedo connection. Its the blue wire on the sakura controller and as you accelerate the voltage increases.
The brakes still have me confused. Both my brake wires are red and black and separately go into a block with mauve and white which are combined in the throttle blocks at the controller shown below;
http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Robin70922/media/null_zps7abb7266.jpg.html

Hopefully this works as I just spent last hour setting it up.

Anyway red,black and green I am assuming are the throttle connections which I can match up on my new controller. The mauve and yellow I believe is where the trouble is.
Any thoughts. Your help and patience is really appreciated . As you know it is so frustrating to be so close and yet so far.
I do feel I am inching towards a solution.
Robin
 
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Robin, here is a picture of my two blocks coming from the OLD controller, that match yours, however the colour of the wires are different. On the OLD controller the two Blue wires i have read, if these are connected together it will operate cruise control !!
From the blocks that plug into the two shown, I found I needed One from each of the blocks (will send pic later when at home) for the brakes to operate and cut power to the Motor when pulled. So this left two wire NOT connected to anythin.??? But works.
 
Uploaded with ImageShack.com
Picture of the blocks that plug in to the two from the controller. For my brakes to work I only needed the mauve and white wires to be connected The Grey and Red wires and left in the connection block not being used. Have No idea what they are for
Uploaded with ImageShack.com
 
Success!! :lol: Everything works including speedo.
Cautious optimism as only just done a test run but the stuttering has gone. Here's the weird thing when I first connected everything up the motor run but didn't drive the wheel. Connected the self learning plug(more than once) and after a bit of faffing with the wheel now driving intermittently I disconnected the plug and the motor started driving the wheel??
I don't pretend to understand how it works but am pleased that it does.
Many thanks for your help.
For the benefit of others I will post full details of the controller and all connections when I am sure all is well.
Robin
 
Ok here goes.
http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/Robin70922/slideshow/
The controller is the one I mention above and obtainable for about £16 from;
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=200767556432&globalID=EBAY-GB
Or from the source given above in a previous post.
Connections to the motor are a direct swap as are the hall connections.
The blue wire is for the speedo. Cut off connector fron old controller.
The three pin connector thin red,black blue is also a direct swap.
For the power supply you need to cut off the plug from the old controller and new one and match up the two thick wires red and black and the thin one . In my case the old thin wire was yellow and the new one red. You can see this in the photos linked above.
The tricky bit is the throttle and brakes. This involves the three pin connector and the two pin connector.
If you trace the throttle wires back to the grip itself you will be able to identify the three wires involved. In my case red, white and grey. The brake wires being white and mauve. The white wire is the same wire!
On the new controller the throttle wires are Pink, black and green. The brake wires are black and white.
So cut off the three pin and two pin connectors from the old controller and the connecter to the brakes from the new controller.
Connect the black brake wire to the black throttle wire and both of them to the three pin connector white wire. Connect the pink wire to the other pin in the three pin connector which is red in my case. The third pin is unused.Then connect the green throttle wire to the green wire in the two pin connector and the white brake wire to the other two pin wire, in my case mauve.
The other wires in the new controller arn't used except for the learning wires as mentioned in the previous post.
As mentioned elsewhere be ready for a spark when you plug in the power lead, this is normal.
Pictures linked above should help my rambling description.
Good luck and best regards to all.
Robin
Robin
 
Robin, Thats really great news, I might even swap my new controller to this one, just so I have the speedo working. what sort of speed are you showing, I have read somewhere that some of the controllers have a three speed wire connection.
You will see 3 speed wires coming out of the controller orange black and yellow wires going to a white connector, what you need to do is wire the orange and black wires together ( or you can bend a 'u' shaped jumper with some solder and push it into the white connector) This will unlock the 250 watt limit set in the factory ( for road legal purposes 250 watts is the limit) and give you 360watts of power going to the motor ( which is the limit of what that motor could handle), please note the modified controller will be above the 250 watt limit, in case you were not aware ( but hard to spot)
 
Hi
Couldn't have done it without your help.
Showing 28kmph max.
There isn't an orange black and yellow wire coming out of the controller?? Am I missing something?
However the info is interesting, will no doubt be using this in the future.
Now I have to tell you since writing the last post I have sold the Sakura. I bought it at auction with the intention of carrying it on the back or the front of my caravan or on the back of the car. Should have done my research before putting my hand in my pocket. Lunar have no stregth on the back and the A frame on the front is too short plus the fact that no carrier exists which allows you to carry the bike above the tow bar whilst towing if you have a swan neck tow bar. Thus I was keen to bring the bike back to perfect order. Put it on ebay yesterday and sold it within two hours and it was picked up in three. Result!
Still have a folding 24 v chinese electric bike which is ok but weighs a ton, but does go in the boot of the car.
Am saving up for a Viking ego folder.
Will keep in touch with this forum, one of the best on line.
Robin
Ps still don't understand the self learning bit on the controller?
 
Hi there, I have orderd the controller that you used, will follow your guide as I really want to get the speedo working, will probably look at selling it as well when all sorted, as no one in my family wants to use it, thought the idea was good at the time..
Robin, I found this http://www.etotheipiplusone.net/?p...lf learning. How much did you get for yours??
 
Hi
£250 . Paid £105 at auction but bought new batteries and controller and hall sensors amounting to some £85.
Actually took the offer outside of eBay for a quick sale. Am sure could have got a lot more but I wanted a quick sale.
Interesting article on self learning. Appears I inadvertently did the right thing.
Robin
 
i replaced my controller with a generic one and made do without the speedo and brake light its not like you need a speedo anyway as you wont be breaking any speed limits lol just one thing to note check the polarity of the power with a volt meter before you connect anything up as sakura thought theyd be clever and wire the battery up brown = negative and blue = positive though i cant remember weather this transfers to the wiring of the controller or not so just make sure that the power wire you are going to connect the red wire to is actually positive!!!
basically connect red or brown power to red of volt meter and black or blue to negative and if you get 36v your good to go if you get -36v you need to swap the wires round and doing this will make sure your bran new controller doesnt release the magic smoke!!!
also note if you replace the charger you will need to swap its polarity as well as the charge port is the same blue = positive brown = negative so be warned check and double check everything and this will save you making the same mistakes as i did dont just assume live/brown = positive because on a sakura it is not!!!!
 
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