Scotts 5th - uh 6th build! now with a video - sorta!

Miles said:
The new Extron sprockets might be a good choice: http://www.accelerationkarting.com/219.html
Click to expand...

And thats exactly what I am using. Nowhere near as stiff as the ali - I am seeing some flex under load. Not unsurprising as the kart sprocket carriers are incredibly beefy! Flex is not enough to cause concern so all but 2 of my sprockets are now something other than ali:)
 
Well here is a vid.

My wife was doing dinner so we couldn't go far - kids about so couldn't go real fast either:(

38mph pass - enjoy - turn down the volume!

btw its quicktime - can't do anything else. oh - and its all about the sound - you know what it looks like!

http://homepage.ntlworld.com/scottclarke/marin/P7280004.MOV

Scott
 
I have just been running on 36V again - and pop went the controller - well, more like a BANG!

This occurred because the chain tensioner is not pulling tight enough to keep the chain properly seated on the 10 tooth sprocket - leading to current spikes probably in excess 200A.

TBH today the start performance has been getting worse and worse - its all fine once you have been to top speed once - then it seems to 'remember' what to expect - up to that point though its pants.

I have a spare controller so it will be back on the road today.

Next steps are a delrin wheel (or maybe just a a bearing...) above the sprocket to hold the chain on when the rpm's rise and a different esc.

Been looking around at the types used on giant scale and Maxi joker heli's and it seems the Power Jazz is the one to have. I need to check but I think Matt has mentioned this controller as being a good one?

Anyway - specs look awesome and its waterproof so cooling will be a non issue:)

Gonna place an order if I can find positive reviews from people pulling 100A+ continuously.

Scott
 
So what guage wire is heating up on you? This is getting very interesting. I can't wait to start my own build here in the next couple weeks! Now the dang batts need to come down in price!

Thanks!
 
Hi tropmonky,

I am using 8 gauge now and I see no heating at all. 12 and 14 gauge heated quite significantly when off-road. On-road the 12 was just warm after several hard launches/hill climbs. I am not 100% sure of the cause of the fire but it is possible the 110C insulation on one of the wires melted...................The connectors (5mm) also proved to be a weak point so now every connection is soldered.

I fitted the other esc yesterday and went for the longest ride yet - did 20.5 miles at 20-25mph with many stops/slow downs since its a walkers/bike path out in the wilderness. Obviously - with only a 24v 15AH pack I was helping things along with the pedals quite a lot of the way - but I never really broke a sweat until the last 2 miles when the cells gave up. I use this path for testing after some road miles - its quite rough, not paved, mix of gravel and mud - it is in fact an old railway line and they pretty much used what was lying around to create the path. It runs for 35 miles and I have only ever made it to the end and back once - on a different bike (pre-use of forums!)

Excellent really considering the cells are the original ones off the black bike - must be 3 or 4 years old now :D

Oh I've gone ahead and ordered that mucho expensive power jazz controller - hopefully that will cure the current induced shut downs on low speed accel.

Scott
 
scottclarke said:
I have just been running on 36V again - and pop went the controller - well, more like a BANG!

This occurred because the chain tensioner is not pulling tight enough to keep the chain properly seated on the 10 tooth sprocket - leading to current spikes probably in excess 200A.

TBH today the start performance has been getting worse and worse - its all fine once you have been to top speed once - then it seems to 'remember' what to expect - up to that point though its pants.

I have a spare controller so it will be back on the road today.

Next steps are a delrin wheel (or maybe just a a bearing...) above the sprocket to hold the chain on when the rpm's rise and a different esc.

Been looking around at the types used on giant scale and Maxi joker heli's and it seems the Power Jazz is the one to have. I need to check but I think Matt has mentioned this controller as being a good one?

Anyway - specs look awesome and its waterproof so cooling will be a non issue:)

Gonna place an order if I can find positive reviews from people pulling 100A+ continuously.

Scott
Click to expand...

Yes the Power Jazz is awesome! But, it is expensive. Also, Castle Creations makes some crazy controllers these days as well. They even make a 90 volt, 200 amp controller. But, $750! :shock:

Anyway, my Power Jazz will be here in a day or so. I will let you know how it does in my bike when I get it.

Matt
 
Matt - do post as soon as you have findings! Mine is coming from the USA so will be 2 weeks in arriving:(

I'm surprised there have been no comments about the noise - I expected at least one reply to the effect of OMG!!!?????
 
Thanks for the info Scott! Whew, that Jazz ESC is a lot more expensive than some of the other ESC's... but if it holds up to a lot of abuse I guess it's worth it... Good to note if I'm going to want to use the larger motor as well! You're bike is sweet! I hope to have something as nice once I'm done... Picking a bike that will work is critical as I'm finding out.

Kyle
 
Kyle - yes frame choice is all important here!

Care to comment on the noise? I want to hear someone say damn thats noisy - or something - anything! It's almost like the post is invisible - I expected all manner of abuse but nothing - whats up!?!?!???
 
You win the ES award for having the shortest video clip! :lol:

And yes, the motor is noisy. Sounds like sound effect of a TIE Fighter in Star Wars.

And your little sister is a hottie, if you don't mind me saying so :wink:

j
 
Sister?!?!? I didn't know I had one!!!!

I presume you mean the one getting in the way of the shot? Thats just a neighbours kid! Now, the one behind the camera - now your talking;)
 
As mentioned before the motor choice was pretty much the largest for this location. I'm wondering what the bigger motor would do with 24v at around 100a... For the bigger motor a different place will be needed for the location.

Ah, gotta start getting measurements going!

Kyle
 
lol, dee jay i hope your no older than 16!!!!
Scott have been meaning to ask you, miles too, if you guys are carrying your packs in a backpack (as i intended to do originally) how do you connect? also how do you disconect in the event of a crash? also dont you worry about damaging you bac if you fall on your packs?

Cheers,

D
 
deecanio said:
lol, dee jay i hope your no older than 16!!!!
Scott have been meaning to ask you, miles too, if you guys are carrying your packs in a backpack (as i intended to do originally) how do you connect? also how do you disconect in the event of a crash? also dont you worry about damaging you bac if you fall on your packs?Cheers, D
Click to expand...

I use andersons at the moment. these disconnect really easily and I keep them short - if I stand on the pedals without thinking it disconnects - its that short.
Yes I worry a lot - the reason I won't be doing this when it is finished. I am going with a saddle style pack, 9 of the 3700 packs aside - going to use the existing bottle mount for it - plus an additonal 2 quick release fitting at the sides. Not sure what the outer skin is going to be right now - it may end up being silver painted ali to match the bike.

Status update - 128 miles and counting. Mix of smooth and roughish terrain. Cruises nicely at 33mph on 24V (all I am running now) - can go 38 but its quiter at 33. Very impressive acceleration - the 10-30mph accel feels faster than the old black bikes 0-10 running 1KW peak but with a much lower top speed. Pulling away from lights I can easily keep with traffic and in fact prove faster than most cars - those on a leisurely drive anyway! It does feel safer going with the flow - no doubt.

Really needing to get a cam for some onboard footage....
 
I'm using these connectors. The wire runs up the inside of my seatpost and exits via a hole I drilled near the top. The wire from the backpack is an old-fashioned coiled electric kettle lead which allows a bit of freedom. I've never disconnected accidentally but the connector certainly separates in a crash, as I verified last week.... :mrgreen:
 
Miles said:
I'm using these connectors. The wire runs up the inside of my seatpost and exits via a hole I drilled near the top. The wire from the backpack is an old-fashioned coiled electric kettle lead which allows a bit of freedom. I've never disconnected accidentally but the connector certainly separates in a crash, as I verified last week.... :mrgreen:
Click to expand...

Hehe, that wire is surely rated for 13A? does it not get hot?!?!????

Unfortunately my 3 runs of 8 gauge - whilst I could put them in the seatstay - the exit hole would seriously hinder the structural integrity of the frame!:( I can't reinforce with a bit more seatube either since the wires don't fit down it:(

I'll use a bit of 'capping' attached to the downtubes rear - paint it to match the frame.

Having said that - nothing is set in stone - until the controller arrives I'm just throwing ideas around really.........

Scott
 
scottclarke said:
Hehe, that wire is surely rated for 13A? does it not get hot?!?!????
Click to expand...

Not that I've noticed - it's air cooled :mrgreen: . Most of the time, I'm not drawing more than 13A, anyway. I realise it's not ideal. I've found a company that coils leads to spec. - I'll get them to create a tight coil of 4 core 15amp rating and then double up the wires. The coiled part can be any proportion of the total length.

The wire down the seat tube is already doubled-up.
 
Hi Fellas,

Very interesting, i originally had my point 1 pack in a rucksack and used andersons to connect at the back of my seat.
Unfortunately i had the problem you have Scott whereby i would disconnect unintentionally by standing on the bike - i'll have a look at what miles is using (sorry miles just seen the thread link) and maybe that is viable?
after a few rides like this i lashed the batt in the frame and the freedom was unbelievable, however i cant help but think that backpacks are way more stealth - just needs a good rip cord solution so looking at you guys now to see if its an option again?

Cheers

D
 
not interested at the mo miles if that was for me - Joz is making my custom 123 pack for the traingle so no backpacks for me this time around, wouldn't count it out for future use though :)


Cheers


D
 
I'm definately going to go with frame mount and the connectors need to be able to handle 200A peaks and 100A continuously - so its big andersons for me!

I've just jetwashed the bike - something I wouldn't even consider doing to either of the other 2 - very very cool:) Pics taken after show close ups of things - I'll reduce them and post them up later:)
 
nice, pop them up Scott so we can have a ganda, looking forward to pics and more vids later on :)



Cheers

D
 
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