TESLA high performance tuning discusion

Would something as simple as adding some thin oil, like ATF, to the air-gap help if rotor temperature is the limiting factor?
 
Hillhater said:
^^..doesn't Justin have the solution to that already trusted and available ?

The Tesla inrunner rotor has a smooth outside and no permanent magnets. Not saying it can't be done, but I wouldn't jump to assuming it's a viable option until tested.

Again, if someone wants to drop off a P90D for me to hack on, it would be my pleasure to find out.

ATB,
-Luke
 
speedmd said:
if someone wants to drop off a P90D for me to hack on, it would be my pleasure to find out

Where does the line form for this task? I'll be second. :lol:

If you think you can do it, be my guest. I think Im at least 98% likely to achieve successfully hacking one to deliver all the power its capable of, and/or add adquate battery to the vehicle to sustain the motors in saturation for the duration of the quarter mile. Im also confident I could get another rear motor drive assembly into the front, even if it requires a lot of customization.

The fee is a p90d + parts (used is OK, but no p85d's, as I don't think the cell is as well suited for finding the edge of the envelope). My labor is bought with the p90d. Which is also used as the development prototype car to hack on and figure out how to do it. I don't care how many times my own development car is broken provided parts for further development and ending up with the same set of functional parts that goes into your own car after we find the real limits.

I am comfortable in my ability to completely find the limits of the vehicle and what breaks first, second, third, etc, and find a solution to each of those obsticles if adquate budget is provided to get some custom parts machined or whatever it takes (essentially throw money at it as an overkill lazymans fix for each thing that breaks). I learned that process well in over a decade of formerly choosing to convert the majority of my paychecks into twisted up paperweights that resemble portions of engine bearing/transmission/clutch/axle/gearset/block/valves/rods/pistons etc.

The Tesla has only stator/rotor/bearings/gearsets/axles to potentially need beefing up, and perhaps most it can remain OEM, wont know until we are finding the limits of satuation with a sticky tire.
 
I share that same sentiment. Damn, that would be a ton of fun! Perhaps there is a similar opportunity when the Fisker Karma rises from the ashes as well. There were a few guys posting some pretty good numbers after swapping motors.
 
Luke That's exactly what discussion i expected to have in that thread :wink:!

Doc
 
jonescg said:
A friend took his P85+ around Wanneroo raceway and he said it handled rather well for a 2+ ton car. However after just two laps his power was dialled back due to overheating. Must be a way to improve that...

I think that is what Saleen has done with their GTX. Better cooling of controller and batteries. How they did it I don't know for sure, but I am guessing the rework of the front bumper is to let more air flow through. So it seems that a new bigger and fatter radiator would be the natural way to go. Perhaps even increased the diameter of the cooling pipes etc to allow for higher flow of liquid. As I said I don't know how they did it, just guess working here.

Main thing is that it is possible to turn model s into track friendly car, Saleen already did with the GTX.
Notice I said track friendly, and not track car. It would take some serious liposculpture, low carbo diet and a doze of magic to remove half a ton or so :)
 
The AMR dual stack motors are getting good numbers down here. Brett from Elmofo with his radical 8 which is set up for circuit racing 50km range. Took it to Sydney race way and posted 9 second 1/4 miles and 210kph.
Biggest problem he was wheel spinning the first 1/8 of a mile. I wonder if these motors would be a better option.

Cheers Kiwi
 
"motor shaft power" does not equal wheel HP.

I'm not aware of any automotive manufacturer rating their vehicles in wheel HP. For one thing, tyre choice and pressure make a large difference to drivetrain losses.
 
Punx0r said:
"motor shaft power" does not equal wheel HP.

I'm not aware of any automotive manufacturer rating their vehicles in wheel HP. For one thing, tyre choice and pressure make a large difference to drivetrain losses.

I'm not aware of any automotive manufacturer rating their vehicles in HP in reality. It is set by lawyers. For example, in 2004 when the SAE measurement standard for calculating it changed (SAEJ1349), some manufacturers had to re-rate everything. All the high hp 4cyl cars suddenly made less power. Options started to matter. Meanwhile GM could INCREASE what the claimed rated power was...
there are a couple neat articles about it if you google it, but i have this one bookmarked:

http://www.caranddriver.com/columns/larry-webster-horsepower-confusion-and-resolution-column
 
eTrike said:
Thanks for crunching the numbers, I made a couple notes but mainly question the battery loss number?

okashira said:
Tesla has published their actual hp numbers. I was only about 8% off or less in my estimates from 6 months ago. :D
Good call, apparently an open letter prompted a response from the CTO on why the 691hp wasn't seen on a dyno and that number has now been corrected with an * for "Battery limited maximum motor shaft power". While I understand the confusion, I don't know if any manufacturer accurately reports WHP. Yay for truth in advertising though, Tesla can revolutionize that field too. :lol:
Their torque numbers are quite a bit lower than some have reportedly dyno'd, though I'm more inclined to believe the lower number.


The numbers are even lower then I estimated.

532 hp (Ludicrous)
463 hp (Insane)

We know L is 1500A or 20.2A per cell. Do we know it does the full 1500A?

NCR18650GA would sag to about 3.34V per cell under a quick load at near full charge when loaded to 20A. Seems about right but I haven't found a test to confirm. Calc estimates 3.32, close enough?
If hot, it might sag to 3.45V. Curious about the cold sag right now, my poor batts are freezing with this recent weather. Naturally Tesla has that managed.
That's 67.47 W per cell or 479.3kW cell power in the car.
532hp is 396.7 kW.

So at full load the rest of the system efficiency is 396.7/479.3 = 82.8% This includes losses from: all wiring, fuse wires, connections, inverter, motor.
That is really good considering how small of an induction motor it is for the power. Seems about right. Any info on peak efficiency of inverter?

Note that the battery cell losses amount to an additional 115kW of losses. (4.15V - 3.34V) * 20.2A * 7104 This is where you lost me. That number seems awfully large at a glance. I think your first "*" should be a "/". R=V/I, eh? With that I get about 6kW of heat. Your efficiency math makes sense for the whole system so I think batts would be included in that.

It brings up an interesting point about thermal management though. Apple's beefiest workhorse received the iPhone treatment a couple years ago and became a much smaller cylinder, shying away from literally every preceding Mac Pro design. In doing so they removed a number of desirable features that power users are accustomed to in favor of volumetric efficiency. Despite a glaring thermal design flaw they patted themselves on the back and made a mint because Apple.(sic) Once the design hit the real world, the flaw left users with an insanely expensive computer that would derate itself in the interest of self-preservation. I worked for them at the time and saw several other practices that were shady at best. There is a reason they have a fraction of the market and a majority of the profits, and it isn't based in ethics. /rantoff

My point is that Tesla could benefit from isolating their heatsinking, because the vast majority of power dissipation needs comes from motor and inverter.


That brings total efficiency at peak load to 396.7/(479.3+115) = 66.8%

disclaimer: I am quite sleep deprived atm, so as always I welcome any corrections. Thanks again for the info!

No, my battery calc is right. I assumed the rest voltage of the cell is 4.15V, and you load it such that the terminal voltage is 3.35v. the power lost is (4.15-3.35)*A in one cell.
Thus the only way to get 100% effieincy is to use a quasistatic load

The rear inverter uses 20x IKW75N60T in parallel per phase. If we assume 1200/20=60 amps you might get a Vce of 1.5V, so >99.5% eff. The conduction losses of the connections and switching losses are probably more then that.
Probably about 99% for the inverter overall at max load.
The motor is most of the losses. And the battery is by far the most at peak load.
 
eTrike said:
Ah thanks for that. For some reason my brain has a hard time thinking of certain formulas so when you used that one I scratched my head. I^2R matches your numbers, so I'm with ya. It still seems awfully high but that's the price of performance. Is the inverter really that efficient overall? I had figured 96%+ but 99% is dreamy and I am surprised to see the batteries would be that inefficient, although under general use they're probably seeing 0.5C and not 7C or whatever. I saw a graphic of inverter and motor temps being pretty warm but it didn't include battery temp so I assumed that the motor sharing heat with the batteries would be detrimental to long term health.

Their inverter is a work of art. I dont know who designed it, but I would buy everyone on that team a beer. lol.
 
okashira said:
No, my battery calc is right. I assumed the rest voltage of the cell is 4.15V, and you load it such that the terminal voltage is 3.35v. the power lost is (4.15-3.35)*A in one cell.
Thus the only way to get 100% effieincy is to use a quasistatic load

the only fair way to calculate battery losses is with the formula I^2*Ri where Ri is the internal battery resistance
 
nieles said:
okashira said:
No, my battery calc is right. I assumed the rest voltage of the cell is 4.15V, and you load it such that the terminal voltage is 3.35v. the power lost is (4.15-3.35)*A in one cell.
Thus the only way to get 100% effieincy is to use a quasistatic load

the only fair way to calculate battery losses is with the formula I^2*Ri where Ri is the internal battery resistance

That's a terrible way to do it if you want an accurate result, as a battery is not a resistor.
The resistance is highly variable and is a function of time, recent loading conditions, temperature, SoC, and age.
 
Hillhater said:
So what you are saying is that it's easier and cheaper to make a brushed motor perform, than a brushless ?
Or have Garlits, Lawless, Metric, etc all got it wrong ?
We are getting there....
There is a lot of talk on here about how a powerful brushless motor is needed.
Here is the motor I just installed in my drag car. We are finishing size reduction on the controller.
8phase 4 pole permanent magnet motor, should be good to 2000HP.
16265744_1213451378708374_218547525162503654_n.jpg
 
Wheazel said:
Arlo1 said:
I bet you could get 0-60 bellow 2s with the lighter battery. I would be interested to see what needs to be done for a little more out of the motors and controllers.

Talk about current top tesla S drivetrain in a lighter roadster.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iVGsWvRa1XA

the guy doing this clearly has never been into drag racing.
It reminds me of this: http://jalopnik.com/did-neil-degrasse-tyson-screw-up-a-tweet-about-basic-ph-1582030197
 
Lmfao yes anyone who thinks you need weight to make a car faster is brain dead. Lighter is faster.
 
Arlo1 said:
Lmfao yes anyone who thinks you need weight to make a car faster is brain dead. Lighter is faster.
same with thinking you need 4wd. :lol:

I do find it funny when people are talking about modding cars for "the quickest" without ever looking up what a couple rednecks can do with a 50 year old car. never-mind what actual pros and engineers can do... :lol:
 
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